Fixed-Point Roof Racks (Yakima Landing Pads, Rails, etc.)

[glpuckett]

I posted in another forum, but this is how my installer "Rack Attack" performed the job. It took about 3 hours for the full job including setting up the LongArm. Originally I was preparing / researching the Bed Rack / Tonneau cover combo but didn't like the available solutions yet & $$$. So, for now this solves my Hobie Outback transporting issues while at the same time allows me to continue making use of my tonneau that came with my First Edition. Eventually, I know I will get the Yakima HD Bed Rack, but this gives me more time...

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[Delbert]

I like that. Just mount the rails inside the plastic trim. Leave the seam alone.

 

[Snax]

I posted in another forum, but this is how my installer "Rack Attack" performed the job. It took about 3 hours for the full job including setting up the LongArm. Originally I was preparing / researching the Bed Rack / Tonneau cover combo but didn't like the available solutions yet & $$$. So, for now this solves my Hobie Outback transporting issues while at the same time allows me to continue making use of my tonneau that came with my First Edition. Eventually, I know I will get the Yakima HD Bed Rack, but this gives me more time...

That looks great. I'm guessing that they figured out that removing the gutter trim would be a PITA, so they just blind-riveted that track beside it. I've actually been considering doing precisely that, so I find it reassuring that Rack Attack went that route. Thanks so much for sharing!

 

[glpuckett]

That looks great. I'm guessing that they figured out that removing the gutter trim would be a PITA, so they just blind-riveted that track beside it. I've actually been considering doing precisely that, so I find it reassuring that Rack Attack went that route. Thanks so much for sharing!

Thanks, BTW post install I was asking several questions:

1. These are installed with (8) rivet nuts (not just pop rivets)
2. My system ~ 220lbs "On Road" vs. Door clip on ~ 165lbs
3. Installer was very impressed with Ford's roof thickness. He commented how solid it was / one of the more thicker that he's drilled into.
4. I appreciate the added height by NOT mounting in the channels (Sharkfin antenna)

 

[sunismymed]

my installer "Rack Attack" performed the job. It took about 3 hours for the full job including setting up the LongArm.

So the rails stay in, but you can remove the bars? If so, that's a nice option because it's maybe 1% of driving I'd need a roof bar, and probably only one. Those hitch mounted removable bars are great for that.

 

[Delbert]

I got my Mav and installed the Yakima lp22 landing pads for 60" core bars. I tryed to remove the trim piece over the seam but it is a significant piece of aluminum through bolted in 4 places. I remove the headliner and could get to some of the nuts but the rear one seemed to be inside a u channel. In any case, the air bag was in the way. I gave up and put it all back together.
Instead, I rivit nutted the landing pads inside the trim. It worked OK but I would recommend Yakima's track for more strength. The landing pads allow for quick removal of the rack and all that is left is a little bump with the mounting point. I was pleasantly surprised that the antenna just screws out so you can remove it when necessary and really is not in the way. Next is the bed rack to match the two cross bars. . .

 

[Delbert]

Once I got the Yakima cross bars on the cab of the truck I set out to install this $100 steel bed rack on the back so it can be used as a full lumber rack or to haul Sea Kayaks.
https://www.ebay.com/ipp/363721858987?transactionId=1300908551023&_trksid=p2047675.l48352

The height of the Mav's roof makes it loadable without a stool and the unibody frame keeps the cab from moving separately from the bed.

The steel rack had to be modified quite a lot to work well. The rear rack took cutting the uprights down so that the height matches the two cross bars on the cab. Just a hack saw and some time.

The front bar took more work. The rail of the Mav's bed is not parallel to the roof profile so the front bed cross bar needed to be shorter. An inch shorter than the rack could be cut off and simply bolted back together. I ended up taking the uprights to the welding shop and had them weld nipples on so I could bolt the rack back together after I cut it down to the right height.

The rack I purchased was too wide where it sits on the rail. I used 1/4" cork to let the rack sit inset from the bed rails but still be clamped solidly to the rail. I used rivnuts to attach it to the rail but I am thinking that some kind of clamp could be fashioned to fasten it solidly to the inside of the rail without having to drill the Mav's bed rail at all.

The rack is removable but the rivnuts would be visible. Drilling the top of the rail is a mistake. It is mostly plastic. I wish I had not. Clamping to the inside of the bed rail is quite enough.

Steel racks are more utilitarian than beautiful. I like how the shape of this one matches the body lines of the cab. However, the finish mars easily and out of the box it is pretty rough.

The pictures show 10 foot board and a 16 foot boat. Both of these can easily be hauled by this set up.

 

[Snax]

I got my Mav and installed the Yakima lp22 landing pads for 60" core bars. I tryed to remove the trim piece over the seam but it is a significant piece of aluminum through bolted in 4 places. I remove the headliner and could get to some of the nuts but the rear one seemed to be inside a u channel. In any case, the air bag was in the way. I gave up and put it all back together.
Instead, I rivit nutted the landing pads inside the trim. It worked OK but I would recommend Yakima's track for more strength. The landing pads allow for quick removal of the rack and all that is left is a little bump with the mounting point. I was pleasantly surprised that the antenna just screws out so you can remove it when necessary and really is not in the way. Next is the bed rack to match the two cross bars. . .

Nice work, thanks for sharing!

Why did you go with LP22?

 

[Delbert]

When the ski shop near me went out of business. They sold me the yakima rack for 60% off. The lp 22 is what they had. I liked the idea little bumps on the roof when I take the rack off. My past experience is that roof racks create wind noise and I wanted to minimize that as much as possible.

 

[Snax]

When the ski shop near me went out of business they sold me the yakima rack for 60% off. The lp 22 is what they had. I liked the idea little bumps on the roof when I take the rack off. My past experience is that roof racks create wind noise and I wanted to minimize that as much as possible.

Thanks, that makes sense. Yakima recommended the 21 (gutters) or 7 (flat roof next to gutters) but obviously other pads will work.

 

[clavicus]

I rivit nutted the landing pads inside the trim. It worked OK but I would recommend Yakima's track for more strength. The landing pads allow for quick removal of the rack and all that is left is a little bump with the mounting point.

This is super cool! I’m also trying to understand how this install works, and if you could guesstimate if the weight rating is increased or decreased using the one rivit nut per pad vs the stock clips.

 

[clavicus]

I posted in another forum, but this is how my installer "Rack Attack" performed the job. It took about 3 hours for the full job including setting up the LongArm. Originally I was preparing / researching the Bed Rack / Tonneau cover combo but didn't like the available solutions yet & $$$. So, for now this solves my Hobie Outback transporting issues while at the same time allows me to continue making use of my tonneau that came with my First Edition. Eventually, I know I will get the Yakima HD Bed Rack, but this gives me more time...

This is awesome, any idea what the itemized parts list or total cost would be to DIY this?

 

[glpuckett]

This is awesome, any idea what the itemized parts list or total cost would be to DIY this?

I assume you are referring to the Track or Rails and NOT the assorted Roof Rack items / options. So, what I paid (not including military discount):
1. Yakima 42" Yakima Track w/ plusnuts (201126) = $168.95
2. Track System Installation = $300.00

BYW, installation meant putting everything together (out of the boxes), aligned and leveled on the truck (Landing Pads, Skyline, JetStream, SKS Cores, & LongArm). Complete and ready to drive off.

I would add that as confident as I am in my DIY'ing abilities I didn't have a problem paying to have this professionally installed. I say this primarily b/c I have ZERO experience in this type of critical install.

 

[TheSEARCH]

Why not just use thew clip on style roof rack that Yakima sells. Yes rated for 165 lbs BUT if you ad a rear cross bar via trailer hitch I cant ever see overloading for even three 60 pound kayaks. No drilling just clamps on . I have used that type of roof rack for years. My buddy with F150 has ONE cross bar up front on cab with clamp on then has cap on bed which uses the rivet rail type setup for two cross bars over bed area. This way bars are way apart. If I ever get maverick I plan on one cross bar clamp on type over cab then hitch cross bar in back..This way large amount of space between cross bars. ,. Its the wind twisting force with bars close together that rips kayaks off roofs.

 

[glpuckett]

Why not just use thew clip on style roof rack that Yakima sells. Yes rated for 165 lbs BUT if you ad a rear cross bar via trailer hitch I cant ever see overloading for even three 60 pound kayaks. No drilling just clamps on . I have used that type of roof rack for years. My buddy with F150 has ONE cross bar up front on cab with clamp on then has cap on bed which uses the rivet rail type setup for two cross bars over bed area. This way bars are way apart. If I ever get maverick I plan on one cross bar clamp on type over cab then hitch cross bar in back..This way large amount of space between cross bars. ,. Its the wind twisting force with bars close together that rips kayaks off roofs.

I agree, the "Clip On" racks work great for most applications and if it fits your needs absolutely save a few hundred $ and choose this option. For me I intend to have this truck for many years (hopefully), and wanted the most flexibility / options that I know of right now; as well as, what I haven't looked into yet! On a positive side I really appreciate the way it works and looks on my glossy black roof.

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