Best B&O sub drop-in replacement?

[Ryom]

Speaker sensitivity equivalence master list 1/watt @ 1 meter (best to worst) with publish frequency response:

6x9 Memphis Audio MJP69 = 99/102dB (98Hz) cannot verify method of 2.83v or 1w/1m
6x9 DS18 PRO-CF69.4 NR = 95db (63Hz)
6x9 Pioneer TS-A693CH = 92dB (30Hz)
6x9 Kicker KSS690 = 92dB (30Hz)
6x9 Kicker 51KSC6904 = 92dB (30Hz)
6x9 JL Audio C1-690x = 91dB (39 Hz)
6x9 MMATS Pro Audio MBW690 = 88dB (28Hz)
6.5" Dayton Audio DCS165-4 = 84.4dB (36Hz)

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[newagecritter]

Good stuff!
I got it itchy and dropped all the big stuff into a shopping cart. I should be able to build a system next week. I’ve been saving for it anyway. I will keep watching this thread though because it is down right awesome.

 

[Ryom]

I contacted Ford and asked for the stock sub sensitivity specs, they were unable to find documentation on their end. So until someone measures it, we're all guessing.

 

[Ryom]

Images of the stock sub and aftermarket side by side.

 

[Ryom]

Preliminary impressions are that the stock sub is pretty efficient and has an appropriately sized magnet. The aftermarket upgrade isn't notably louder or deeper than stock, not enough to justify the cost and hassle of working around fitment which will require removing material from the basket of the aftermarket, or fabricating a shim to raise it enough to clear the cutouts.

 

[Maverick123]

What I can't figure out is why they made the enclosure so small, they could have made it twice the volume (in cubic inches, not in dB) by just using all the space behind the sub ... but no, the enclosure uses less than half the available room and there's a big empty space behind it! Weird.

 

[Ryom]

It's an infinite baffle design, very space friendly:

https://www.kicker.com/app/misc/support/tech/tech_papers/docs/InfiniteBaffleGuidelines.pdf

Infinite baffle mounting is often considered the best overall sounding by some people. They will
have a very smooth roll off of the lower frequencies and they usually have a smooth frequency
response. They do not have an enclosure that will change the way the woofer naturally sounds.
When mounting woofers in an infinite baffle configuration, there are a few things you will have
to know. You must have a woofer that is able to be used in an infinite baffle. It is recommended, and
sometimes required to have a subsonic filter. This filter will limit the lower frequencies that may
damage the woofer at high power. Some woofers are specifically designed to work infinite baffle. Most
are not. Many speakers will do a good job infinite baffle if you know the limitations of the woofer.

 

[Carlitos_92]

Preliminary impressions are that the stock sub is pretty efficient and has an appropriately sized magnet. The aftermarket upgrade isn't notably louder or deeper than stock, not enough to justify the cost and hassle of working around fitment which will require removing material from the basket of the aftermarket, or fabricating a shim to raise it enough to clear the cutouts.

Color me surprised; the OEM woofer having a bigger magnet than a high-quality aftermarket model was not even in the realm of possible assumptions.

What's the next step? Dead end? It sounded like you did not want to mess with removing that B&O setup to put in an HS8/10...

 

[Ryom]

What's the next step? Dead end? It sounded like you did not want to mess with removing that B&O setup to put in an HS8/10...

Most likely going to leave it as it is. I'm not suffering from what's there, but I am aware of the lack of true deep end due to having an extremely capable sub in my prior vehicle. I think with it being infinite baffle it probably has a 35Hz filter so getting those deep notes means bypassing the amp with one of the aftermarket radio harnesses anyway. It was worth the time to explore the potential, but it just isn't there for a drop-in I believe.

I will advise everyone to pull the seat back and FIRMLY press in ALL the clips you can see or feel. Most of my clips were not fully seated and once I gave the back wall a once over the rattles that were there are almost entirely gone... so time well spent at least.

 

[Maverick123]

I will advise everyone to pull the seat back and FIRMLY press in ALL the clips you can see or feel. Most of my clips were not fully seated and once I gave the back wall a once over the rattles that were there are almost entirely gone... so time well spent at least.

Thanks for the tip! I haven't heard any rattles (yet) but I'll check it out

PS : magnet size isn't necessarily related to speaker quality, the Pioneers might have a smaller one but it might be better quality than the B&O

 

[Ryom]

magnet size isn't necessarily related to speaker quality, the Pioneers might have a smaller one but it might be better quality than the B&O

I was pleasantly surprised by the build quality of the B&O subwoofer. The surround is a nice rubber, the magnet was clearly adequate to the task, and the basket well reinforced. I had both the Pioneer and B&O running outside of the enclosure and the cone excursion and perceived loudness were similar between the two.

The B&O has a pressed paper cone... which is fine, no need for exotic cone materials in a driver that's never going to see hundreds of watts RMS. It also means it's nice an light so between the cone material and magnet size I'd wager it's pretty efficient.

I was expecting it to be an easy upgrade, but they actually didn't skimp out here. My conclusion is that it's not worthwhile to upgrade it without moving to a dedicated box and amp. I am curious as to the actual specs now though, sad that Ford customer support couldn't get me any technical info. I may actually try reaching out to Bang and Olufsen with a query, though I doubt that will yield fruit either.

 

[phoneguyinpgh]

Might be worth putting a spectrum analyzer on the sub speaker's leads and play some brown noise through it just to see where the amp's roll off is.

 

[blueboy]

I was happy with my subwoofer in my 2024 Lariat till I bumped into this thread. I usually used a Bose sub but its too big for the Mav.
Today I replaced the door front speaker and what a difference. I used a 3 way speaker and I'm very happy with the sound. I mainly listen to Jazz and Rock and the quality is really decent now. Before it was way too much bass but now I can hear different instruments with the 3 way speakers.
I'm gonna look into replacing the Subwoofer next. I don't want nor I desire a loud noise, I like quality music sounds.
Below is the 3 way speaker I used, I had it seating and collecting dust for a while.

Rockford Fosgate P1675

 

[Ryom]

I may actually try reaching out to Bang and Olufsen with a query, though I doubt that will yield fruit either.

Thank you for contacting Bang & Olufsen Customer Care regarding your Ford sound system in 2025 Maverick.

We're very sorry to hear that a Ford store was unable to provide you with the technical details of the subwoofer driver used. We will be more than happy to assist you with your query.

We regret to inform you that we do not officially support the B&O sound system in vehicles, and you will need to get in touch with your dealership or car manufacturer regarding the question.

In May 2015, Harman International (which later became a subsidiary of Samsung), announced the completion of its acquisition of Bang & Olufsen Automotive car audio business. In March 2017, Tymphany, an audio ODM based in Hong Kong and with manufacturing operations in Dongchen, announced the acquisition of the engineering and manufacturing operations in the Czech Republic from Bang & Olufsen.

Should you require any other assistance, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Kind regards,

Amy | Bang & Olufsen Customer Care

 

[Toddman45]

Yeah to get deeper bass than that 6x9 driver allows you're going to have to go with an aftermarket sub box and the amp. No other way around it, whether it's all AIO sub or sub in a box under the seat with a amp on the rear wall.

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