Bed rail system worth it?

[Sembazuru]

I will need to make 1 more of these track setups for the 2023 maverick we are picking up for my wife. Gonna start collecting up goodies for that one now too.

I'm noticing on the pictures of people who have simply put eyebolts into the bed rail area that there appear to be two missing holes from your hole location drawing. There appear to be four 8mm locations on the truck bed, but you only indicate two. Were the other two off of even 1" increments? When you get your wife's truck, would you measure out these other holes and add them to your drawing? I don't have access to a Mav (yet) or I would measure myself. If the two holes missing from your diagram are on 1" increments then adding them should structurally help hold the l-track flat against the side of the truck when tightening straps.

For reference, here is your drawing. I think we've identified that the left two holes are 6mm holes (for the factory cleat) and the right two holes are 8mm holes.

Simple eyebolt installation. Note 4 eyebolts per side.

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[Barracuda340]

I'm noticing on the pictures of people who have simply put eyebolts into the bed rail area that there appear to be two missing holes from your hole location drawing. There appear to be four 8mm locations on the truck bed, but you only indicate two. Were the other two off of even 1" increments? When you get your wife's truck, would you measure out these other holes and add them to your drawing? I don't have access to a Mav (yet) or I would measure myself. If the two holes missing from your diagram are on 1" increments then adding them should structurally help hold the l-track flat against the side of the truck when tightening straps.

For reference, here is your drawing. I think we've identified that the left two holes are 6mm holes (for the factory cleat) and the right two holes are 8mm holes.


Simple eyebolt installation. Note 4 eyebolts per side.

The 2 additional holes per side that are not on my drawing will not work with the L track. L track circular lug holes are 1" spacing center to center. Those 2 additional holes on the bed are within the 17" and 21" areas respectively. However they are NOT at 1" on center increments, and are not straight inline with the other 4 fastener holes as shown on my drawing. As such they will not work unless you slot the track. Honestly these aren't needed.

The track is 6061-T6 aluminum. For non aviation types that makes it insanely strong. TBH if you crank in ratchet straps tight enough to bend this track with those 17" and 21" spaces, you will have collapsed the bed wall long before then. To this end, you are waaay overthinking this. Remove the front cleats, install the two 6mm bolts at the front, and the 8mm bolts at the center and aft ends when you install this track, then call it a day.

The truck my tracks are installed on is my friends truck. The tracks with the blue tiedowns are my tracks. I drilled both sets. I will be installing mine in my truck wednesday if I dont have overtime at work. If I do, they will wait till friday. However those additional 2 holes per side are not in a straight line with the others, nor are they at exact inch measurements.

 

[Maverick2112]

The rail system is slick, but do you really need infinite adjustment of tie downs? The bed is only what, 4 foot? I simply added a couple of tie downs with an 8mm bolt on each side.

 

[Barracuda340]

The rail system is slick, but do you really need infinite adjustment of tie downs? The bed is only what, 4 foot? I simply added a couple of tie downs with an 8mm bolt on each side.

I have seen people add eyebolts to the holes. That is a bad idea, if heavy cargo shifts, the eyebolt attach point in the bed will bend from the eyebolt getting pulled. It's not so much about infinite adjustments, but more about spreading the pull from the load. The D rings swivel whichs lessens stress, and the track spreads out the loading. You eyebolt is threaded into a tack welded nut attached to thin gage sheetmetal.

 

[Maverick2112]

I have seen people add eyebolts to the holes. That is a bad idea, if heavy cargo shifts, the eyebolt attach point in the bed will bend from the eyebolt getting pulled. It's not so much about infinite adjustments,but more about spreading the pull from the load. The D rings swivelwhichs lessens stress, and the track spreads out the loading. You eyebolt is threaded into a tack welded nut attached to thin gage sheetmetal.

Yes, I considered that. If I need to tie down a heavy load, I'll use the factory cleats or the bed floor D rings. In many years with older full sized trucks, I survived with 4 heavy duty tie down points, I just couldn't see the need for more than that in the Maverick.

 

[Barracuda340]

I installed mine this evening

 

[Mad876Max]

I installed mine this evening

How is easy was the L track to cut especially if someone doesn't have a miter saw or the like.

 

[JT Maverick]

At least for the 23MY orders that are replacing cancelled 22MY orders, I'm near certain (took notes) that in video discussion regarding how to prepare those transition 23MY orders Tim Bartz pointed out that the order writer needs to look in the system for a choice where EITHER "Cleat Tie-Down Kit B" OR "Cleat Tie-Down Kit C (61D)" is selected. Kit B does not include the bed rail system, so no charge when selected. Kit C does include the bed rail system and adds $225 when selected. For 23MY orders, apparently some order writers were confused about how to add or remove the bed rail system. So ordering the bed rail system for $225 when ordering a 23MY Maverick would represent a good deal in comparison to ordering it later on from Ford Accessories for $400.

 

[Bad Actor]

Make your own.

https://www.ford.com/support/vehicl...68474503001?name=build-your-own-bed-side-rail

 

[Barracuda340]

Make your own.

https://www.ford.com/support/vehicl...68474503001?name=build-your-own-bed-side-rail

I was going to go that way, but in the end, I found a better/cleaner way to do this for not much more money with aircraft seat track. My way makes the ford DIY look clunky.

 

[Smack]

I needed a box for skis longer than 170cm.

 

[bighap]

I'm going with these. Way cheaper and will provide plenty of tie points between them and the factory points.

 

[2Crew]

I made my own with commercial grade aircraft style L track. About $100

I've been wondering if I could make this work. Comes in black and silver..... Amazon.com: Mytee Products Heavy Duty Aluminum 4ft L-Track (2 Pcs) w/L-Track Stud Stainless Steel Ring (8 Pcs) Tie Down System for Enclosed Trailers and Cargo Vans : Automotive

 

[2Crew]

I was going to go that way, but in the end, I found a better/cleaner way to do this for not much more money with aircraft seat track. My way makes the ford DIY look clunky.

My goodness I finally found the ones you mentioned. I think its a different website than US Cargo is what threw me off. This is slick, here we go for mine and my Dad's Maverick.... Aluminum Aircraft Grade L-Track With 2,000 Lb WLL (cargoequipmentcorp.com)

 

[HybMav2023]

I made my own with commercial grade aircraft style L track. About $100

Very nice tie down design! My usage for them is certainly minimal but could use on occasion. Thank you for the reply, pictures of the neat design, and drawing!

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