Battery longevity for the Maverick hybrids.

[MakinDoForNow]

Hmmm - could the extra price increase for HVB replacement be all the 1-time use bolts?

Like - 8 of them...

Ohhhh - and wiring harness clips that are 1-time use too. Lot of wires dealing with HVB.
And coolant hose clips.
Nickel and dime on up an extra 3000.

And the one time bolts that hold the fuel filler "hole" in place

Sponsored

 

[bgn]

Doesn't seem like there is an established market for refurbished hybrid batteries for the Maverick like the Prius line, but I do see plenty of low mile units from wrecked vehicles for around $1,000. I'd say that since it's a bolt on external part, buying one of those from a reputable source is actually pretty low risk.

If I had a vehicle with a 150,000+ miles, and it was going to be around $1,500 to do a used low mile battery vs. $6,000+ on a new one as one person claimed...I am taking my chances on the $1,500 option every time. If if you did get a bad battery by chance and had to pay labor twice, you'd still come out 3x less. Probably not a job I would do myself though since playing around with the HV system can kill you.

Since I'm on a flight right now and have access to the service manual, I thought I'd read the procedure.

It's super simple. But that's not to say everyone should do it. Manual says it's 450v DC. It'll put a pep in your step.

If you can read, have access to a lift, basic tools, and some clamps, you're basically golden.

I personally would never go with a new battery for these. Just grab a used one with low miles for $1000 and you're good. Hell, I spent $1000 on a portable battery when they first came out that had less capacity than this thing.

 

[Darryl]

But that is a Toyota? They have a great proven track record and basically invented this hybrid system and eCVT. Ford got approval to use it and has made there own tweeks on it. One being the DC to DC converter. But this all is Toyota's design. Originally the CVT was belt driven similar to a 2 stroke minibike.

Ford hybrid batteries commonly last over 200 000 miles too . And Ford ALWAYS used E-CVTs with Toyota hybrid based technology in their hybrids. Ford has a. Excellent track record too in their hybrids given that they've been making them since 2005. The current setup has been used since 2010. And the current batteries chemistry has been used since 2013. The longevity has been demonstrated in the Fords.

 

[Master Blaster]

Everyone should know this hybrid is high maintenance. Sort of like having a pet. It doesn't like hot, it doesn't like too cold and you must feed it with fluids and now electric maintenance treats. Sales people won't tell you that. I think they should be required to do so. When I asked my sales guy, he told me this is decades old technology from the Escape and is great, No mention of charging issues and added hands on maintenance
For me I am hands on anyway, have scanners and tools. Lots of research should be done before buying these complicated systems with software, plastic and throw away parts.

The Hybrid is lower maintenance than the EcoBoost, with the exception of the 12V battery due to Ford not fixing the defective BMS software. And both drivetrains have the same C/V-joint problems.
The Hybrid has no belts, no starter motor, a closed-loop A/C unit, a Toyota/Ford-co-designed transmission with no clutches and 1/5th of the parts, a Mazda/Ford-codesigned incredibly durable engine with no turbocharger, a traction battery and DC/DC converter that are warranted to last 80k and usually make it to 200k.
Whether its an EcoBoost or a Hybrid, a block heater helps a lot in winter. The Hybrid starts easily at -35 or +35, although you won't get your best mileage at -35 with it on the gas engine until the coolant is warm enough. The Ecoboost has some difficulty starting at -35 due to the use of thicker oil and the small battery out in the cold instead of inside the cab.
At 195hp the Hybrid has 20hp more than a 70's pickup and 50hp more than a gen-1 or gen-2 Ranger. The EcoBoost, being a high-pressure turbo modification of the same basic engine design, probably won't last as long and requires more frequent fluid changes that add a lot to your running costs.
Unlike a full-frame pickup, the unibody is so stiff that you only need to jack up one wheel to change both front and back, leading to a better ride and better handling with or without a load.
Over the expected life of the drivetrain, just the fuel savings alone will pay off handily, and replacement parts are way cheaper than the naysayers keep touting. A replacement traction battery at 200k miles can be readily sourced for $1k for example, not the $2k-$5k being thrown around by people with no real-life experience.
Assuming 5L/100km vs 7L/100km for highway-only driving, that's a conservative savings over the 200K life of the battery of around $10k in fuel costs alone, compared with fueling an EcoBoost, and around triple that same cost with an F150. For more normal partial-city driving, you can expect double that in savings, or around $20k.
Changing the traction battery is pretty easy if you follow the instructions. Ford built this for maintenance by hands-on people. The high-voltage interrupter is inside the battery casing, so when you disable the power with the plug under the hood, the battery becomes safe to handle and the only special items that you will need are a couple of the single-use coolant clips.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

The Hybrid is lower maintenance than the EcoBoost, with the exception of the 12V battery due to Ford not fixing the defective BMS software. And both drivetrains have the same C/V-joint problems.
The Hybrid has no belts, no starter motor, a closed-loop A/C unit, a Toyota/Ford-co-designed transmission with no clutches and 1/5th of the parts, a Mazda/Ford-codesigned incredibly durable engine with no turbocharger, a traction battery and DC/DC converter that are warranted to last 80k and usually make it to 200k.
Whether its an EcoBoost or a Hybrid, a block heater helps a lot in winter. The Hybrid starts easily at -35 or +35, although you won't get your best mileage at -35 with it on the gas engine until the coolant is warm enough. The Ecoboost has some difficulty starting at -35 due to the use of thicker oil and the small battery out in the cold instead of inside the cab.
At 195hp the Hybrid has 20hp more than a 70's pickup and 50hp more than a gen-1 or gen-2 Ranger. The EcoBoost, being a high-pressure turbo modification of the same basic engine design, probably won't last as long and requires more frequent fluid changes that add a lot to your running costs.
Unlike a full-frame pickup, the unibody is so stiff that you only need to jack up one wheel to change both front and back, leading to a better ride and better handling with or without a load.
Over the expected life of the drivetrain, just the fuel savings alone will pay off handily, and replacement parts are way cheaper than the naysayers keep touting. A replacement traction battery at 200k miles can be readily sourced for $1k for example, not the $2k-$5k being thrown around by people with no real-life experience.
Assuming 5L/100km vs 7L/100km for highway-only driving, that's a conservative savings over the 200K life of the battery of around $10k in fuel costs alone, compared with fueling an EcoBoost, and around triple that same cost with an F150. For more normal partial-city driving, you can expect double that in savings, or around $20k.
Changing the traction battery is pretty easy if you follow the instructions. Ford built this for maintenance by hands-on people. The high-voltage interrupter is inside the battery casing, so when you disable the power with the plug under the hood, the battery becomes safe to handle and the only special items that you will need are a couple of the single-use coolant clips.

The single use coolant clips sound OK but are those clips available separately OR are they like the one time use bolts on other items which are only available in a kit which is the item? (As in to get the clips the replacement battery has to be purchased ???).

 

[Red Eyes - Wide Shut]

The Hybrid is lower maintenance than the EcoBoost, with the exception of the 12V battery due to Ford not fixing the defective BMS software. And both drivetrains have the same C/V-joint problems.
The Hybrid has no belts, no starter motor, a closed-loop A/C unit, a Toyota/Ford-co-designed transmission with no clutches and 1/5th of the parts, a Mazda/Ford-codesigned incredibly durable engine with no turbocharger, a traction battery and DC/DC converter that are warranted to last 80k and usually make it to 200k.
Whether its an EcoBoost or a Hybrid, a block heater helps a lot in winter. The Hybrid starts easily at -35 or +35, although you won't get your best mileage at -35 with it on the gas engine until the coolant is warm enough. The Ecoboost has some difficulty starting at -35 due to the use of thicker oil and the small battery out in the cold instead of inside the cab.
At 195hp the Hybrid has 20hp more than a 70's pickup and 50hp more than a gen-1 or gen-2 Ranger. The EcoBoost, being a high-pressure turbo modification of the same basic engine design, probably won't last as long and requires more frequent fluid changes that add a lot to your running costs.
Unlike a full-frame pickup, the unibody is so stiff that you only need to jack up one wheel to change both front and back, leading to a better ride and better handling with or without a load.
Over the expected life of the drivetrain, just the fuel savings alone will pay off handily, and replacement parts are way cheaper than the naysayers keep touting. A replacement traction battery at 200k miles can be readily sourced for $1k for example, not the $2k-$5k being thrown around by people with no real-life experience.
Assuming 5L/100km vs 7L/100km for highway-only driving, that's a conservative savings over the 200K life of the battery of around $10k in fuel costs alone, compared with fueling an EcoBoost, and around triple that same cost with an F150. For more normal partial-city driving, you can expect double that in savings, or around $20k.
Changing the traction battery is pretty easy if you follow the instructions. Ford built this for maintenance by hands-on people. The high-voltage interrupter is inside the battery casing, so when you disable the power with the plug under the hood, the battery becomes safe to handle and the only special items that you will need are a couple of the single-use coolant clips.

I appreciate your comments. I have researched all of this and the varying facts.

 

[Master Blaster]

The single use coolant clips sound OK but are those clips available separately OR are they like the one time use bolts on other items which are only available in a kit which is the item? (As in to get the clips the replacement battery has to be purchased ???).

They are Ford-standard heater coolant line clips, also used in a number of other places on the vehicle. They should be off-the-shelf at the Ford parts counter.

Sponsored