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Becker300

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RV repair tape, is what I sealed the gap between the cab and the ARE cap, 4" is what I bought, works well. Amazon was pretty cheap, I haven't been all that satisfied with the FlexSeal stuff at the big box lumber stores. If you tap on the photo and enlarge you can check it out.
IMG20230531152412.jpg
Thanks. I like the profile on this. Nothing raised.
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tom_tucker

tom_tucker

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Update on the ARE MX water leak- It's sealed nicely at the front for about 2 months now with this, which should work for any topper. I could cover the gap and get just enough contact with 4" wide. Might need to reapply it once a year, we'll see.
VViViD 3M Clear Paint Protection Vinyl Film 4 Inch Wide Choose Your Size Including Tools (4 Inch x 60 Inch)

Also, the cap rails work well to tie down my 14 ft inflatable kayak directly to the topper and roof crossbars.

See photos of the gap seal and roof setup.

The beauty of the cap is it's easy to pack up the night before even in the rain. It's packed right now for a camping mtb trip tomorrow with the hardtail locked to the hitch rack. No swing away hitch yet, I just take it off at the campsite. Stoked on Maverick.

Ford Maverick ARE MX Bed Cap Topper Shell - Installed w/photos 20230725_155111


Ford Maverick ARE MX Bed Cap Topper Shell - Installed w/photos 20230716_130948
 

Little boy blue

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Update on the ARE MX water leak- It's sealed nicely at the front for about 2 months now with this, which should work for any topper. I could cover the gap and get just enough contact with 4" wide. Might need to reapply it once a year, we'll see.
VViViD 3M Clear Paint Protection Vinyl Film 4 Inch Wide Choose Your Size Including Tools (4 Inch x 60 Inch)

Also, the cap rails work well to tie down my 14 ft inflatable kayak directly to the topper and roof crossbars.

See photos of the gap seal and roof setup.

The beauty of the cap is it's easy to pack up the night before even in the rain. It's packed right now for a camping mtb trip tomorrow with the hardtail locked to the hitch rack. No swing away hitch yet, I just take it off at the campsite. Stoked on Maverick.

20230725_155111.jpg


20230716_130948.webp
I'm getting my A.R.E. cap installed today. I guess that I'll wait and see if it has any issues with water leaking in.
 

Darthie

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I'm getting my A.R.E. cap installed today. I guess that I'll wait and see if it has any issues with water leaking in.
Update regarding water leak findings please???
 
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Little boy blue

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Update regarding water leak findings please???
I do have leaks up where the plastic bed cap splice is on both sides and they only leak in a heavy downpour or when going though the car wash. Its definitely not enough to remove and reseal the cap.
 

King Richard

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ARE MX Bed Cap Topper - Installed w/photos. Options were fold down/sliding front window, clothes hangers (x4) and roof tracks. No lights or carpet. Figured I can always install lights later. No carpet because I figured it would leak some. Not really anywhere for the water to go once it's in the gap. Also, the ARE site showed the clothes hangers as small metal ones. These were 4 big plastic ones and not spread out that far.

Pros: At $3100 including tax, not a bad investment extrapolated over 10 years. I've heard of people buying caps for 15 y.o. trucks then no resale value. Lots of cargo room here, 2x my old wagon. Gas mileage only a little bit affected. Perhaps 1-2 MPG, not a big deal. With the higher MX, I'm able to get all the way in and not feel too cramped to get to the bulkhead. I'm fine tent camping so not a bid deal that's it's not a "camper" shell. Can be removed, but definitely will take 2 men, or one juiced up Arnold S.

Cons: "Free" install means they don't do shit to water seal it. Just one layer of putty tape. I took it back one time and they just added a second layer. Then they blamed the Maverick's open vertical rail channel drains which was total bullshit. After that I moved it back and add lots of butyl rope in the gaps under the front of the shell. Helped a little but still leaks. Some reduced visibility which was expected. Very splintery and rough fiberglass inside. I'm gonna need to mask up and sand it down at some point. Finally, I had grand plans of removing it by myself, but no dice. Im 5' 8' 150 lbs. Too big and cumbersome for the average bloke. At least I smarted up and quit before I dropped it.

So the question is, how to fill the gap at the top to keep rain out in the first place? I'm thinking either 3m paint protection tape or a well crafted and cut white pool noodle stuffed in the gap. See photos of the gap. Thanks for reading and any suggestions in advance!

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Did you have to install bed reinforcement brackets ???.......I'm being told by ARE vender they are required
 

King Richard

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RV repair tape, is what I sealed the gap between the cab and the ARE cap, 4" is what I bought, works well. Amazon was pretty cheap, I haven't been all that satisfied with the FlexSeal stuff at the big box lumber stores. If you tap on the photo and enlarge you can check it out.
IMG20230531152412.jpg
Did you have to install the bed reinforcement brackets ???
 

Fcnrwy

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I only had one truck (my first ‐ 1977 F-100). That had a Cap. There was a gap between Bed And Cab in those days. Bought a Foam insert that attacted to the Cap....
Just a Q is the Third Brake light the issue.... and If so.
Would removing it make installs easier? 🤔

Jerry
 
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tom_tucker

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Did you have to install bed reinforcement brackets ???.......I'm being told by ARE vender they are required
No, of course not. You are being jobbed. There are 4 bolt clamps that hold the cap on. That's it, no brackets. Haven't had any issues.
 

King Richard

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Thanx for the reply. Just worrying about voiding warranty and paying for something I don't need,
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