Adding 8" sub & amp to B&O

[clavicus]

I followed a video of a guy carpeting a box with spray adhesive and it worked pretty well. The fit is spot on.

I'm finishing the amp install and wiring tomorrow.

That's awesome. With the B&O package I'm dissapointed at the lack of equalizer control. Do you have any method to tune the sound or specifically target sub levels vs bass levels?

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[colinl]

Great install man! Did you leave the factory amp in there for the front speakers? I thought about upgrading the 6x9 with something better but this seems like a better option.

Yes, my factory amp is still driving the factory center, rear pillars, front doors (Focal).

Replace the front doors first, you will get a LOT more midbass with quality door speakers.

I don't like the B&O 6x9 being in an infinite baffle. They probably did that to reduce/eliminate resonance but it doesn't produce good SPL. I definitely considered replacing the 6x9. I know some of done it, and I've heard Ford has a good number of warranty claims on B&O when people get carried away with the bass tone control and volume knob. I have the factory bass level set at 1 tick above minimum.

But would replacing the 6x9 be an improvement? Yeah, and since 6x9 come in pairs you can sell the other one to another Maverick owner. Just don't expect much especially if you listen to anything with low bass like hip-hop.

I'd do the 8" again, no doubt.

 

[colinl]

That's awesome. With the B&O package I'm dissapointed at the lack of equalizer control. Do you have any method to tune the sound or specifically target sub levels vs bass levels?

great question. watch this and prepare to be amazed. yes, a $270 500wrms amp does this.


short version is you download a gain matching track and set the volume to 23. play it and turn the gain knob, adjusting until it's just below threshold (flashing light). then you play a sweep track and it learns the dsp correction. the coolest thing is you can push the key button once to turn the dsp on/off and be amazed at the correction it's doing. you can't sit in the truck and do this if you mount the amp where I did, but still, it's noticeable enough to hear just leaning in and pushing it on/off.

if you don't have a B&O system but are reading this thread anyway , I would do a Kicker KeyLOC, Hoel Wiring ACM adapter, and a Kicker Key 200.4.

 

[Darnon]

Yes, my factory amp is still driving the factory center, rear pillars, front doors (Focal).

FWIW the B&O amp only drives the subwoofer, tweeters, and front door. The center and rear speakers are driven by the APIM directly.

 

[colinl]

FWIW the B&O amp only drives the subwoofer, tweeters, and front door. The center and rear speakers are driven by the APIM directly.

thanks. but Ford claims it's an '8 channel amp', LOL

 

[MikeyG]

Looks great! What speakers did you use for the front doors? Also how does the 8” hit? I have a 10” sundown sd2 I took out of my f150 that’s a shallow sub 5.75” but do think it’s going to work. It requires .5 ft box so I might need to go with a 8” sub.

 

[colinl]

Looks great! What speakers did you use for the front doors? Also how does the 8” hit? I have a 10” sundown sd2 I took out of my f150 that’s a shallow sub 5.75” but do think it’s going to work. It requires .5 ft box so I might need to go with a 8” sub.

I have these half-installed because I am still debating putting the tweeters on the A pillar instead.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091RSE165/Focal-RSE-165.html

It's also a difficult task to work on the dash tweeter. There's threads about it and no one says it's easy or fun. The midbass from the Focal 6.5 is really good.

Honestly, I've never used an Alpine sub before this, always JL Audio. A local shop has repped Memphis and Alpine a long time so I was familiar with this before I started researching. I think the R2 is a great combination of high SPL and quality sound, it isn't muddy at all. Granted some of what I'm hearing is definitely thanks to the dsp in the Kicker 500.1 amp. In this particular implementation there are not a lot of options that work well in such a small enclosure and especially not many that can deliver a 1 ohm load to get the full 500w out of the Kicker 500.1. There is no audible noise or distortion at max volume.

Originally I really wanted a 10 but this box is the biggest rectangle you can fit - trust me on that - and it's only 15x10.5 on the top panel which is a no-go for a 10" woofer. If you made a trapezoid 11.5-12" on the top you will have to cut the seat bench rest for it to fit. (Others have done exactly that but I didn't want to.) Lift your rear seat and check it out. It's the forward outside corner, feel under it especially. That's why this box is only 6.5" tall. I can literally slide it towards the center of the truck and lift it out. It's such a snug fit it won't move during normal driving but I would take it out before an autocross!

This woofer actually has over 12mm xmax, it just doesn't look like that at a glance because of Alpine's surround design. It's a lot more obvious to see a fat surround and know you're looking at a high excursion woofer. I could run this one at 4 ohm (2+2) but that's only 150w on this amp, and I decided to gamble with this one to get the full 500w. A safer choice is the dual 4 ohm version running 2 ohms for 300w. I only got it completed last weekend, so I actually haven't played bass tracks yet, just music. A co-worker who currently doesn't have a system but recently did have two 10s in a sedan was very impressed. There is not enough volume for an extreme performance 8" like a JL 8W7 or Skar EVL-8. Both of those will want more than 1 ft3 and this is a third that size. I have seen some boxes that extend into the center but I'm not sure how that would sound and probably still nowhere near 1 ft3 because of the shallow depth over the center tunnel. I originally wanted this box to be ported but that also takes 1 cubic foot or near it, and the port tuning if you go into the center or even use both sides is problematic.

Long story short: I put the box dimensions in the first post so someone could duplicate the box and choose whatever amp and woofer they want. But I like the ones I chose!

 

[MikeyG]

I have these half-installed because I am still debating putting the tweeters on the B pillar instead.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091RSE165/Focal-RSE-165.html

It's also a difficult task to work on the dash tweeter. There's threads about it and no one says it's easy or fun. The midbass from the Focal 6.5 is really good.

Honestly, I've never used an Alpine sub before this, always JL Audio. A local shop has repped Memphis and Alpine a long time so I was familiar with this before I started researching. I think the R2 is a great combination of high SPL and quality sound, it isn't muddy at all. Granted some of what I'm hearing is definitely thanks to the dsp in the Kicker 500.1 amp. In this particular implementation there are not a lot of options that work well in such a small enclosure and especially not many that can deliver a 1 ohm load to get the full 500w out of the Kicker 500.1. There is no audible noise or distortion at max volume.

Originally I really wanted a 10 but this box is the biggest rectangle you can fit - trust me on that - and it's only 15x10.5 on the top panel which is a no-go for a 10" woofer. If you made a trapezoid 11.5-12" on the top you will have to cut the seat bench rest for it to fit. (Others have done exactly that but I didn't want to.) Lift your rear seat and check it out. It's the forward outside corner, feel under it especially. That's why this box is only 6.5" tall. I can literally slide it towards the center of the truck and lift it out. It's such a snug fit it won't move during normal driving but I would take it out before an autocross!

This woofer actually has over 12mm xmax, it just doesn't look like that at a glance because of Alpine's surround design. It's a lot more obvious to see a fat surround and know you're looking at a high excursion woofer. I could run this one at 4 ohm (2+2) but that's only 150w on this amp, and I decided to gamble with this one to get the full 500w. A safer choice is the dual 4 ohm version running 2 ohms for 300w. I only got it completed last weekend, so I actually haven't played bass tracks yet, just music. A co-worker who currently doesn't have a system but recently did have two 10s in a sedan was very impressed. There is not enough volume for an extreme performance 8" like a JL 8W7 or Skar EVL-8. Both of those will want more than 1 ft3 and this is a third that size. I have seen some boxes that extend into the center but I'm not sure how that would sound and probably still nowhere near 1 ft3 because of the shallow depth over the center tunnel. I originally wanted this box to be ported but that also takes 1 cubic foot or near it, and the port tuning if you go into the center or even use both sides is problematic.

Long story short: I put the box dimensions in the first post so someone could duplicate the box and choose whatever amp and woofer they want. But I like the ones I chose!

Awesome I appreciate all the info. I don’t have my maverick yet. It’s getting built Oct 24th so I can’t take any measurements to see if I could get my 10 in there but like you said don’t think it’s going to happen and I definitely don’t want to cut out the corner seat brace. Don’t mind trimming the plastic out like you are going to do. I never be built a sub box but been following a few threads and will build the box for my mav. My alpine amp is 500x1 at 2 ohms so it would be a good amp for the 8” alpine sub.

 

[colinl]

Awesome I appreciate all the info. I don’t have my maverick yet. It’s getting built Oct 24th so I can’t take any measurements to see if I could get my 10 in there but like you said don’t think it’s going to happen and I definitely don’t want to cut out the corner seat brace. Don’t mind trimming the plastic out like you are going to do. I never be built a sub box but been following a few threads and will build the box for my mav. My alpine amp is 500x1 at 2 ohms so it would be a good amp for the 8” alpine sub.

Yes - you would want the R2-W8D4 if using my dimensions for a 8".

There are definitely some 10" and it might be possible to make it taller than mine and not as long (left to right) so that it stays away from the corner brace towards the center. I didn't pursue that because it would be a lot of carpentry time at my (very low) skill level to make the trapezoid.

If anyone wanted to do it I'd suggest making some cardboard models and it's probably going to be in the range of 12x12 top and 12x10.5 bottom. Quick math on that is 0.62 cubic feet which is enough for many sealed 10" including an Alpine R2. With a 12x12 top and 3/4" MDF you won't cut into the edge of the box for the woofer but it's still a tight fit.

 

[MikeyG]

Yes - you would want the R2-W8D4 if using my dimensions for a 8".

There are definitely some 10" and it might be possible to make it taller than mine and not as long (left to right) so that it stays away from the corner brace towards the center. I didn't pursue that because it would be a lot of carpentry time at my (very low) skill level to make the trapezoid.

If anyone wanted to do it I'd suggest making some cardboard models and it's probably going to be in the range of 12x12 top and 12x10.5 bottom. Quick math on that is 0.62 cubic feet which is enough for many sealed 10" including an Alpine R2. With a 12x12 top and 3/4" MDF you won't cut into the edge of the box for the woofer but it's still a tight fit.

Yea I want to mess around once I get the truck. The only problem I might have is the sub has the rubber ring that stick out another inch so it Will probably be hitting the seat. I wanted to give it some room for expansion add for air flow. Like I said it’s only 4 3/4 but the rubber ring adds an additional 1” that would stick out of the box amd requires .5 cubic ft. He’s some pics of it.

 

[Topflite66]

Got the box built last night and it fits great as expected... carpet is next. I'm in my 40s and I've had systems in a number of vehicles, all done by shops. This is literally the first box I've ever built.

Looks good. Did you have the dimensions both with the plastic in and out? Trying to figure out if my Punch P300-10T will fit under the seat. Thanks

 

[colinl]

Looks good. Did you have the dimensions both with the plastic in and out? Trying to figure out if my Punch P300-10T will fit under the seat. Thanks

There's a thread here where a very similar style of box was built to fit with the plastic insert unmodified but it's also an 8": https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/subwoofer-install-under-rear-seat.12727/post-255895

16"x9" top
16"x7" bottom
9" tall

I made a cardboard model of those dimensions and it goes next to (outside) the corner brace instead of going under it like my box.

I thought about just copying that but decided to make a rectangle and pull out the insert. Using a shorter box like mine you can also put a grille on your sub and it still won't be in contact with the bottom of the bench seat.

Most of the boxes I've seen here and in FB groups that have 10" are either fiberglass or rely on cutting the corner brace to make room for ~12" width (front-to-rear of the truck).

 

[Topflite66]

There's a thread here where a very similar style of box was built to fit with the plastic insert unmodified but it's also an 8": https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/subwoofer-install-under-rear-seat.12727/post-255895

16"x9" top
16"x7" bottom
9" tall

I made a cardboard model of those dimensions and it goes next to (outside) the corner brace instead of going under it like my box.

I thought about just copying that but decided to make a rectangle and pull out the insert. Using a shorter box like mine you can also put a grille on your sub and it still won't be in contact with the bottom of the bench seat.

Most of the boxes I've seen here and in FB groups that have 10" are either fiberglass or rely on cutting the corner brace to make room for ~12" width (front-to-rear of the truck).

Thank you for the info.

 

[JaxMav]

Build looks great. I was able to get this pioneer 10" to fit in the same spot. I did build a trapezoid box for it. I also had to router to top a bit so it would fit into the bin. Its not a top of line sub but it fits and I am pretty happy with the sound produced.


Also, anyone looking to switch out the center channel. This is 8 ohm and sounds decent. A lot better than the stock. I just bought a 4" baffle and trimmed to stuff it into the cavity. IIRC because its been a while, but I think I just cut out the stock center channel and reused its bracket. Either that or I made a custom bracket.

 

[Topflite66]

Also, anyone looking to switch out the center channel. This is 8 ohm and sounds decent. A lot better than the stock. I just bought a 4" baffle and trimmed to stuff it into the cavity. IIRC because its been a while, but I think I just cut out the stock center channel and reused its bracket. Either that or I made a custom bracket.

Just curious, is the center channel powered by the stock amp or by the head unit? Wondering if the B&O amp is a 5 channel or 4 channel. Still waiting for mine to come in so wanting to know in advance. TIA

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