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Dad

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I ran into the same problem and finally found one on eBay that worked great. This is the link.


96B576D5-B766-4CF2-A7A0-0A55A17C8446.jpeg
Wow! That was prompt! Thank you. I thought I was alone in having a hard time finding this item. Now at least we have given other members some alternative solutions.
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thin_crimson

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Wow! That was prompt! Thank you. I thought I was alone in having a hard time finding this item. Now at least we have given other members some alternative solutions.
You’re very welcome! By the way, in case you completely butcher the plate (like I nearly did), here’s that part number to keep handy:

Blanking Plug #13D712 ($13.23)
 

Dad

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You’re very welcome! By the way, in case you completely butcher the plate (like I nearly did), here’s that part number to keep handy:

Blanking Plug #13D712 ($13.23)
Thank you. Always a good idea to prep for unforeseen problems.

Ford Maverick Adding 12V and USB power ports to the bed - installed photo IMG_2285 (1)
 

Dad

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I used a 1-1/8 woodboring bit since it was all I had on hand at the moment. Best I recall it was a little more snug than I would’ve liked. A step bit would be more ideal. Had to shave the backside flush as well to make room for the nut.
I used a 1-1/8 wood boring bit and I believe that is the best tool for the job. However, I would strongly recommend using a drill press to get a clean cut into the panel cover rather than a hand held drill. Hand drill wobbles around too much. I was able to complete the circle cut with an razor blade cutter and ended up using a dremel to make the hole as neat as possible. A drill press would have made this less necessary. I also used a multi-tool with a narrow blade to cut out the part where the 12v connector parks itself on the back of the panel. I only did one side, but now I know how to do the other side with a lot less effort and errors.
 

Dad

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I ran into the same problem and finally found one on eBay that worked great. This is the link.


96B576D5-B766-4CF2-A7A0-0A55A17C8446.jpeg
The other pigtails from Amazon did not work for the bed 12v. They fit the connector, but for some reason, did not power up the usb or cig lighter modules. No idea why. I ended up using the one Ford packaged with the truck. Thank you for your link to an extra pigtail. What was Ford thinking? "Yeah, let's keep the cost down by giving the consumer only one pigtail." They saved $10?
 

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thin_crimson

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I used a 1-1/8 wood boring bit and I believe that is the best tool for the job. However, I would strongly recommend using a drill press to get a clean cut into the panel cover rather than a hand held drill. Hand drill wobbles around too much. I was able to complete the circle cut with an razor blade cutter and ended up using a dremel to make the hole as neat as possible. A drill press would have made this less necessary. I also used a multi-tool with a narrow blade to cut out the part where the 12v connector parks itself on the back of the panel. I only did one side, but now I know how to do the other side with a lot less effort and errors.
Agreed, a drill press would be much handier. I was using a handheld and holding the cover with channel-locks so it was interesting.
 

thin_crimson

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The other pigtails from Amazon did not work for the bed 12v. They fit the connector, but for some reason, did not power up the usb or cig lighter modules. No idea why. I ended up using the one Ford packaged with the truck. Thank you for your link to an extra pigtail. What was Ford thinking? "Yeah, let's keep the cost down by giving the consumer only one pigtail." They saved $10?
I spent way too much time looking for the second pigtail that Ford never gave me hahaha. Thankfully someone on here had posted an eBay link so I was able to go there.
 
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Dad

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Agreed, a drill press would be much handier. I was using a handheld and holding the cover with channel-locks so it was interesting.
I also tried using channel locks . . . I would use the term "frustrating".
 

Dad

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I am trying to get a straight forward answer to this question as well. I have read that the truck bed 12V ports are live for only some amount of time after the truck is turned off, I haveread they are only live while the truck is running, and I have read that they are hot all the time. I am not sure which is correct.

I have a Eccoboost XLT with the Lux package coming but I want to put some switched LED light strips in the bed and DC plug/USB ports in the cubby for electronics charging.
Not sure if you've already received an acceptable answer to this, but on my truck, the 12v only works when the accessory mode is turned on and then only lasts for 30 minutes. The 400w 3-prong outlet only works with the engine running.
 

Dad

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I spent way too much time looking for the second pigtail that Ford never gave me hahaha. Thankfully someone on here had posted an eBay link so I was able to go there.
Yes, that's where I got the second one. Oddly enough, when I inquired to my local Ford dealer about the pigtail, they had no idea what I was talking about.
 
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BDennis

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I went a different direction and put this in the cubby so nothing in the bed could damage them. The plate was installed so I could see the plugs from the tailgate, much easier this way to plug into, especially USB ports. I replaced the glass fuse with an inline blade fuse. I made sure that the fuse had enough wire added so I could access the fuse from the DIY power cover.

Ford Maverick Adding 12V and USB power ports to the bed - installed photo 8F4C356F-3638-4F8F-BDDA-860E26B17AB4


Ford Maverick Adding 12V and USB power ports to the bed - installed photo CECF98EB-7FA9-46AA-BEF3-02214AE63BBF
 

MakinDoForNow

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Note in manual page 312 accessory additions it says to not attach anything to negative post to prevent battery management from being affected. Find your ground elsewhere.
 

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Note in manual page 312 accessory additions it says to not attach anything to negative post to prevent battery management from being affected. Find your ground elsewhere.
So attaching to the positive would be okay?
 

MakinDoForNow

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So attaching to the positive would be okay?
The paragraph in the manual only refers to the negative post. As using it can affect the bms readings on the battery conditions. I personally feel that obtaining positive would be best at one of the fuze panel locations with preference being to one that is turned off after a certain time period in order to help protect the charge in the 12v battery.
 

BDennis

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The paragraph in the manual only refers to the negative post. As using it can affect the bms readings on the battery conditions. I personally feel that obtaining positive would be best at one of the fuze panel locations with preference being to one that is turned off after a certain time period in order to help protect the charge in the 12v battery.
Just thinking about having my power port I installed in the bed cubby stay live. It has its own power switch that controls the both the 12 volt and USB ports. I also installed an dedicated inline 10 amp blade fuse. There are times you just don’t want to keep putting the key in.
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