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ParagonDetail

ParagonDetail

2.0L EcoBoost
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Ryan
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www.purveyorsofshine.com
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22ā€™ Ford Maverick XL
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2.0L EcoBoost
Thanks for the tip! I have to get my old car ready for sale when my maverick is delivered in a month or so - don't want to spend a lot just to sell it. It needs to sparkle because even dealers get stars in their eyes when they see something shiny.

Have you used this product? Opinions on the product line?

https://adamspolishes.com/collections/ceramics-graphene-graphene-ceramic-spray-coatingā„¢/products/graphene-ceramic-spray-coatingā„¢-advanced
I personally donā€™t believe the Graphene hype. I donā€™t think itā€™s been proven that there is a significant enough Graphene inside these formulations to make any difference. We are talking ._% in some of these formulations.

Speaking on Adamā€™s, I have not heard good things. Lots of premature failure claims and I know a few detailers who have been let down by the performance claims. Its not a product I would apply to any of my clients vehicles.
 
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ParagonDetail

ParagonDetail

2.0L EcoBoost
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Kudos to the OP for the responsiveness and care given in the work and the advice!! This is someone who is truly passionate and knowledgeable. I do have a questions. I'm old school and never even heard of ceramic coating until about a year ago. With the area 51 paint being visually less deep because of lack of flake, do you think that the process you used would be a bit overkill because the results would be less dramatic? Or, is the protection factor enough? I would also be interested in what you would suggest as a simple DIY solution for area 51, as I'm not sure I wish to spend that much.
Thank you. Iā€™ve been really busy lately so i apologize for the late response.

I think the paint will look ā€œwetā€ and glossy and it might add a good bit of depth too.

If looks is all you are going for then I would say you can achieve close to the same results with a proper wax or sealant.

However, the protection canā€™t be matched by a wax or sealant. A true coating is going to bond to your paint on a molecular level and itā€™s going to provide long lasting protection. A wax or sealant is going to sit on top of the paint and will be washed away in a few weeks/months depending on durability.

Coating is also going to keep the vehicle cleaner for longer, itā€™s not going to get as dirty when it does need a wash because of the surface energy the coating provides and you canā€™t beat the ease of maintenance. Washing time should will be cut in half.
 
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ParagonDetail

ParagonDetail

2.0L EcoBoost
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Ryan
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22ā€™ Ford Maverick XL
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2.0L EcoBoost
Wow, I actually read all 15 pages of this thread. Great info. I am a DIYer when it comes to detailing so I appreciate the OP hanging in and monitoring the questions and responding. I appreciate your efforts.

I wash and detail my Velocity Blue Mav using either a 3 bucket touch wash/foam monthly and ONR rinseless weekly. Beadmaker is my drying aid and finish with a spray sealant.

I purchased Avalon King Ceramic Coating 6 months ago but have not applied it. I do not have a garage to do it in and do not want to ruin the curing of the coating. I will figure it out, I guessā€¦..
Great product choice, ONR and Bead Maker are some of my favorite products.

Avalon King should be able to be done outside. Iā€™m not sure what their curing claims are but Ibe seen it used by a lot of mobile detailers in the past. Might want to just top it with a topper or sealant so the coating is protected and it can continue to cure underneath.
 
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ParagonDetail

ParagonDetail

2.0L EcoBoost
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2.0L EcoBoost
I was ROTFL just now. Here is a whole video which just recaps the OP's posting. I mean, this person had the chutzpah to make a whole video out of another person's posting. Genius. You just show random screen captures and photos and add a speculative narrative on Ranger quality. You don't have to do anything other than repackage some actual information discovered by somebody else.

The positive: With advertising like this, Paragon Detailing will soon have to go franchise because demand will be so great.



Now if you'll all excuse me, I'm going to get busy repackaging all the threads on this site into clickbait videos.
Hahaha I did not see this. Thank you for bringing that to my attention. Not bad advertising I would say lol.
 

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ParagonDetail

ParagonDetail

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2.0L EcoBoost
Mine was done by a pro with Onyx Graphene product. I did the first wash and was very easy and look amazing.

20220604_170509.jpg
Looking Good šŸ‘
 

numike

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i am a dummy with this sort of stuff so i will have ceramic done by a professional
 

Deleted member 7762

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Iā€™m just gonna start by saying that these Mavericks are already head turners when theyā€™re out in the wildā€¦ But now this thing straight up is snapping necks.

Finally had the time to detail my truck properly. It was washed, decontaminated and pretty much every surface is now ceramic coated. Paint was in such good shape after washing and prep, that I fortunately didnā€™t have to do any paint correction. This is rare but shows how taking the proper precautions and making sure your vehicle is in professional hands can save you a lot of time and money. This truck is Ceramic Coated so itā€™s UV protected, itā€™s going to stay cleaner for alot longer, itā€™s going to stay looking glossy and cleaning it is going to be a piece of cake thanks to the low surface energy and high contact angle the ceramic coating provides. This is going to protect my vehicle from things like bird scat, insect acid, hard water, acid rain, road salt and much more.

Here are a few thoughts..

1.) Donā€™t let your dealer touch the truck. This is going to prevent you from having to pay to fix any scratches/imperfections they administer. This is important because polishing is where youā€™re going to spend your money at the detail shop.

Warning: these trucks have little to no paint on them.. (more later on)


2.) Find an certified detailer with proper knowledge and experience and donā€™t let joe shmoe touch your truck. You get what you pay for quite literally in the detailing industry. You can always find someone to do it cheaper, but thatā€™s not necessarily better. Youā€™ll usually end up paying another detailer to fix the first ones mistakes. In this case, not hiring a professional could easily lead to them burning through the little paint you have trying to correct it.


3.)PAINT IS THIN
This is so important. If you or your detailer are going to polish the truck in any way, they NEED to do a paint reading with a paint depth gauge. Paint preservation is most important.
I was shocked at how little clear coat was on certain parts of my truck and had I not taken the right precautions and measured the paint, Iā€™d be in a lot of trouble. Luckily I had no dealer instilled scratches or swirls and I was able to simply wash, carefully decontaminate the paint with an iron remover, sap remove, tar remover and followed up with a careful claybar. No user inflicted marring. Had I not been experienced at this, this would have been a turning point in the project for a lot of people. Iā€™m shocked at how thin the paint is and so thankful I am not busting out the polisher. Below are pictures of the process and what I saw.

4.)Plastic almost appears to have a coating of some sort on it. I ceramic coated mine but it almost didnā€™t want to take the coating. Hopefully we wonā€™t see fading down the road like we do with most vehicles with this type of exterior surface. Whether your coating it or restoring it down the road, remember these pieces are very porous and get clogged with contamination. It needs to be cleaned properly or you wonā€™t get proper adhesion.

Here are pictures of the process, hope you enjoy.

Before:
1BC6DC06-A7C9-4C3C-99A6-4CACCAC48A97.jpeg


After:
506DCA0B-C63E-459B-AC6F-B3A1A59A974F.jpeg


Clay After Decon: lots of dirt and grime embedded into the clear coat

8A1F8201-90B5-461A-8A9D-6DE1D8122CB7.jpeg


Paint After Clay: No visible scratches or marring when done right
BFD6942F-2CB3-47F1-AF40-E2A0F5A80B0C.jpeg


Measuring The Paint:

EEEFF6A7-58B4-43DF-8BCE-1066AFC74C58.jpeg


Results: For Reference, you can assume you have about 1.5-2. Mils of base/color coat on a car. 1 Mil is .001 of an inch. For reference, a post it note is 3 Mils thick. So most cars paint is thinner than a post it note. Most new cars have about the same amount of clear coat, sometimes less and sometimes more. After reading as low as 2.28 on some places thatā€™s a sign there is very little to no clear coat on these vehicles.

B6A54376-FA5A-4AF6-8A28-8CAA2B303C8E.png


Coating Time:
Gtechniq CSL Followed By ExoV4
42D74B2F-10DF-46A1-BBF7-15EC40E61692.jpeg


Beyond happy with the results!!!
058CCBD1-43E5-48A3-8C70-D034D176D710.jpeg
48BE4EB3-9817-4FD8-BCC3-3076D255B77A.jpeg
7DF60192-8096-4C53-A06D-9621534A8AD3.jpeg
81CF2647-F9AB-402E-BF30-B1AE845F3D0A.jpeg
A7D81892-CD63-49B0-877C-53016F9C2887.jpeg
1BEBCE95-ECD0-48A6-AAE9-7A97C83B0ECF.jpeg
2C22C2A4-BAA9-4748-AC60-3446283A4A77.jpeg


Hope you enjoy and thanks for reading!!!
My paint is coming off in spots all over my truck, even on the inside front bottom edge of the back doors about 3 inches. The spots are small. Ford will do nothing about it so Iā€™m stuck getting it fixed.
 

Chicora

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My paint is coming off in spots all over my truck, even on the inside front bottom edge of the back doors about 3 inches. The spots are small. Ford will do nothing about it so Iā€™m stuck getting it fixed.
Please share some pics
 
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My paint is coming off in spots all over my truck, even on the inside front bottom edge of the back doors about 3 inches. The spots are small. Ford will do nothing about it so Iā€™m stuck getting it fixed.
would be helpful of photo of this.
 

Rick and Mavy

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My paint is coming off in spots all over my truck, even on the inside front bottom edge of the back doors about 3 inches. The spots are small. Ford will do nothing about it so Iā€™m stuck getting it fixed.
Pics or it didnā€™t happen.
 

Rick and Mavy

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Pics or it didnā€™t happen.
Really hope to not see pics of this happening. Iā€™d prefer to believe itā€™s not a real problem. Hate to think youā€™re actually dealing with this problem on top of the other problems you had.
 

Deleted member 6544

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While we're waiting for pictures... I received my Maverick on July 11th. Really like the truck. At the same time a friend of mine, ex-coworker also, came into the area to visit accounts in New England. He took over my accounts up here when I retired. We performed an impromptu film build study. My XLT is Iconic silver. We took 61 readings across one whole side, tailgate, hood, bed, and roof. We used his Elcometer 456. This is a $1200 piece of equipment which was recently calibrated, (all equipment carried by a service rep is required to be calibrated). Long story short the average DFT, dry film thickness, was 4.4 mils. with a high of 5.2 and a low of 3.9 mils. These numbers are what I'd expect from the paint job. I've mentioned these numbers before but again, .8 mils for electrocoat, 1 mil for primer. That leaves 2.6 mils for color and clear. Figure 1 - 1.2 mils for color that leaves 1.4 - 1.6 for clear coat. I have no problems with these numbers.
As the Elcometer also reads coatings on non-ferrous substrates I figured let's see what was on the wheels, black FX4 wheels. To my surprise the average DFT was 7.1 mils! I'm assuming these wheels are powder coated and possibly also have a primer.
There you have it. I'm happy with the paint job on my particular vehicle. Time will tell if it is soft, chips, peels, or fades...
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