2000w inverter

[SolidWrecks]

Perfect fit. Now to wire it up.

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[skyhawk]

LOL - 166 Amps, 208A allowing for NEC overhead. I would plan 220A. I hope your plan is to mount it 2" from the battery and use 3/0 gauge wire.

Also IIRC Ford says not to wire anything to battery ground direct because it will mess with the BMS.

And considering the puny battery in the hybrid, I would not ever consider abusing it with an inverter this size. An inverter this size needs a deep cycle marine battery (or large LiFePO4 etc).

But hey, it fits perfect!

 

[SolidWrecks]

In a hybrid the dcdc is good for 265 amps and the battery is right there. NEC needs less than 2% voltage drop. For a foot long cable, the drop is negligible and it's more about the ohmic heating.

 

[SolidWrecks]

You would need to keep the engine running to use it. It would start the engine and probably keep it running You need to ground to the frame near the battery and not the negative lug. You need to connect after the bms or else the bms will get confused.

 

[huunvubu]

And considering the puny battery in the hybrid, I would not ever consider abusing it with an inverter this size. An inverter this size needs a deep cycle marine battery (or large LiFePO4 etc).

You are assuming that the inverter only runs from the 12-volt battery alone.

That is a wrong assumprion.

When the Hybrid Maverick is Powered ON the 12 battery is constantly being charged from the HV-Battery via the DC-to-DC converter and if the HV-Battery needs recharging the ICE engine runs to charge it.

So the only time limit is how much gas is in the tank.

 

[huunvubu]

Perfect fit. Now to wire it up.

This reprint is from this thread: Looking into running 1500W/3000W start Inverter

Be careful in picking your inverter as most are junk and sometimes bad junk as in fire hazards.

Here are a few videos on the ALFFAA 1500W Inverter and why it is a really a great inverter and also showing how to avoid the crap inverters that are out there.

The person doing these next two reviews is kind of gruff but does show good vs crap:

Cheap DC to AC Power Inverters, ARE THEY WORTH IT?




Cheap Fake-A-Watt verses Affordable Real Power Inverters




LAB TESTED! ALFFAA 1500W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter




ALFFAA 1500W Pure Sine Wave Solar Power Inverter. Excellent Budget Inverter




Ford Maverick Hybrid Power Generator DIY




The Above video is great in showing the Hybrid Maverick and the ALFFAA 1500W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter being used in powering various power tools along with a Microwave and Shop Vac.

 

[MiMav]

I would be concerned about power dissipation if the plan is to run it with the seat down. If the seat is up it should be OK.

 

[skyhawk]

You are assuming that the inverter only runs from the 12-volt battery alone.

That is a wrong assumprion.


When the Hybrid Maverick is Powered ON the 12 battery is constantly being charged from the HV-Battery via the DC-to-DC converter and if the HV-Battery needs recharging the ICE engine runs to charge it.

So the only time limit is how much gas is in the tank.

A constant 160A load on that battery along with a constant 160A charge is going to kill it. The heat build up under that cover with such a draw is going to kill it.

 

[skyhawk]

In a hybrid the dcdc is good for 265 amps and the battery is right there. NEC needs less than 2% voltage drop. For a foot long cable, the drop is negligible and it's more about the ohmic heating.

I was not referring to voltage drop, I was referring to the 80% ampacity rule.

That battery may be good for a bit at 265A but you are going to smoke it if you do that continuously on a regular basis especially in that small covered compartment.

If you need 2000W you should be looking at 24V or better yet 48V.

Anyhow, good luck with it

 

[Waterick]

I would be concerned about power dissipation if the plan is to run it with the seat down. If the seat is up it should be OK.

Of course, you mean heat dissipation.

 

[Automate]

A constant 160A load on that battery along with a constant 160A charge is going to kill it. The heat build up under that cover with such a draw is going to kill it.

Heat could be an issue but the battery should not be a problem. The DC-DC convert will continually keep the battery and inverter charged. The power will bypass the battery and go directly from DC-DC convert to the DC-AC inverter. Battery voltage will not drop and there is no need for a deep cycle battery as long as the car is turned on.

 

[huunvubu]

A constant 160A load on that battery along with a constant 160A charge is going to kill it. The heat build up under that cover with such a draw is going to kill it.

Hyperbole much

First the cover is OFF when the inverter is connected to the battery so no heat build up.
The back windows should be fully open for ventilation.

Second the battery is not being charged at 160A as most of that is directly going to the inverter.

That said a 2000W continuous loaded inverter is probably too much for the Hybrid Maverick which is why I chose the ALFFAA 1500W Inverter. 1500W @ 13V is 115A.

Watch this video as it clearly shows no issues using the ALFFAA 1500W Inverter to power: Microwave, Shop Vac and Power Tools:

 

[SolidWrecks]

I would be concerned about power dissipation if the plan is to run it with the seat down. If the seat is up it should be OK.

Yeah I would have the seat up if I was using it. Otherwise for small loads, I can use the one already in the car. I plan to use this guy camping and tailgating.

 

[SolidWrecks]

Hyperbole much

First the cover is OFF when the inverter is connected to the battery so no heat build up.
The back windows should be fully open for ventilation.

Second the battery is not being charged at 160A as most of that is directly going to the inverter.

That said a 2000W continuous loaded inverter is probably too much for the Hybrid Maverick which is why I chose the ALFFAA 1500W Inverter. 1500W @ 13V is 115A.

Watch this video as it clearly shows no issues using the ALFFAA 1500W Inverter to power: Microwave, Shop Vac and Power Tools:

Great post. I didn't see this. I went with 2000 since that's what I already had. It will only draw what it needs so I'm not going to get close to 2000 but the overhead for surge and being lower on the utilization is nice to have.

 

[Maverickman74]

I used to use that brand when I drove OTR trucks. Aswell as when I moved to Maui to power my smaller shop solar system. However I had 2 of them melt internally while not in use. It could have been the design or ants or baby geckos getting inside then growing. Took em apart and Im not an electrician but it was a circuit leading to some round cannister looking deals that melted. I have been using a randomly named similar priced aluminum housing model since and it has lasted longer. Just giving warnings. If you do operate it alot. Maybe put a DC switch between it and the battery just so its not always connected.

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