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2.3 swap

colinl

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Col1981

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IMG_3501.jpeg

sorry forgot to post pic with front #’s
Thanks! They are different part numbers it looks like from the non tremor. I guess the rears would be too. I had read they were different but this pretty well confirms it. Be cool to see some side by side photos of those axles.
 

Col1981

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cobb tuning was the first to offer a transmission tune for the Maverick about 2 years ago now, and my recollection is that they stated the Maverick nearly always chooses 7 gears and the 8th is almost unused in any factory map. and then in their transmission tune, it definitely only uses 7.

I can't recall which gear was unused, maybe you're right it is 4th, but for some reason I was thinking it was 2nd under very light throttle.
They shift 1-3 in nearly all conditions. At certain speeds and drive modes and throttle it might hit a 2 but it’s not going to be often. You can data log a Cobb ap to see this. It‘ll skip 2 every time even when not WOT.
 

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They shift 1-3 in nearly all conditions. At certain speeds and drive modes and throttle it might hit a 2 but it’s not going to be often. You can data log a Cobb ap to see this. It‘ll skip 2 every time even when not WOT.
Have been watching my JB4 display and 2nd gear is almost non existent
 

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colinl

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So if it fits in a Focus, then it fits in the Maverick?
I would be pretty confident in that, yes.

But we are talking about a short block so that means in a Maverick you would need to install the stock cylinder head after ensuring piston clearance, as well as accessories, oil pan, manifolds, everything.
 
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Nodal

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I would be pretty confident in that, yes.

But we are talking about a short block so that means in a Maverick you would need to install the stock cylinder head after ensuring piston clearance, as well as accessories, oil pan, manifolds, everything.
Looking for more of a drop in situation, I don't want to separate heads from a block or even an alternator if possible.
 

colinl

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Looking for more of a drop in situation, I don't want to separate heads from a block or even an alternator if possible.
check Ivan's thread about his 2.3 corsair engine swap, then. I believe he still had to do some work on lines, brackets etc, but can't recall details.

it's going to be a ton of work and probably not worth it unless you have blown your stock 2.0, or are planning to make 500+ hp. if that's your goal I would think you're prepared for a lot of work.
 
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Nodal

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check Ivan's thread about his 2.3 corsair engine swap, then. I believe he still had to do some work on lines, brackets etc, but can't recall details.

it's going to be a ton of work and probably not worth it unless you have blown your stock 2.0, or are planning to make 500+ hp. if that's your goal I would think you're prepared for a lot of work.
The articles on his swap said it was a direct bolt in and there was one sensor that was in a different place. The stock ecu even recognized it after clearing the codes.
 

colinl

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The articles on his swap said it was a direct bolt in and there was one sensor that was in a different place. The stock ecu even recognized it after clearing the codes.
I doubt it based solely on how long his truck was down afterwards, but hey, go for it. There are many things possible with time and money.
 
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Yes the 2.0 block is better than the 2.3 and there are many ways to make power but the easiest and fastest way is with a 2.3 Corsair engine. You are starting with 45 hp and 33 tq off the bat without touching anything assuming you score the 46mm 2.3 turbo as well.

A tune alone adds appx 20% more power to the 2.0. So let’s use ricer math and assume the same for the 2.3 and add a tune, intake, intercooler, downpipe, and catback. The 4 people I know who have purchased a 2.3 bought a 57mm turbo as well. It would be a waste to go through all that and keep the stock turbo.

Add all that up and you have a Maverick that’s out of fuel at give or take 375 wheel. The Ranger guys with the same turbo and fuel upgrades are well over 400 to the tires but they also have a stronger transmission.

The swap was actually done over the weekend and only took long to get running because I was having a downpipe for the Ranger turbo made among other things. I used the 2.0 harness and only swapped over the line pictured below because of the plug location. The other issue was the turbo not making boost which turned out being that connector 1 and 2 on the waste gate is opposite on the Ranger. A simple wire switch took care of that.

If you can find a Corsair 2.3 for a decent price I say go for it. I did it by myself with no instructions or anyone to ask for advice. Not that it’s needed but if anyone doing it has any questions I’m happy to help.
Ford Maverick 2.3 swap IMG_3215
 

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You have pics of the pin 1 and 2 location on the ranger turbo to swap?
 
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Nodal

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Yes the 2.0 block is better than the 2.3 and there are many ways to make power but the easiest and fastest way is with a 2.3 Corsair engine. You are starting with 45 hp and 33 tq off the bat without touching anything assuming you score the 46mm 2.3 turbo as well.

A tune alone adds appx 20% more power to the 2.0. So let’s use ricer math and assume the same for the 2.3 and add a tune, intake, intercooler, downpipe, and catback. The 4 people I know who have purchased a 2.3 bought a 57mm turbo as well. It would be a waste to go through all that and keep the stock turbo.

Add all that up and you have a Maverick that’s out of fuel at give or take 375 wheel. The Ranger guys with the same turbo and fuel upgrades are well over 400 to the tires but they also have a stronger transmission.

The swap was actually done over the weekend and only took long to get running because I was having a downpipe for the Ranger turbo made among other things. I used the 2.0 harness and only swapped over the line pictured below because of the plug location. The other issue was the turbo not making boost which turned out being that connector 1 and 2 on the waste gate is opposite on the Ranger. A simple wire switch took care of that.

If you can find a Corsair 2.3 for a decent price I say go for it. I did it by myself with no instructions or anyone to ask for advice. Not that it’s needed but if anyone doing it has any questions I’m happy to help.
IMG_3215.jpeg
Thank you for adding some clarity. Do you have any information on using the Ranger/mustang/focus engines? Would it just be swapping motor mounts, possibly accessories.
 

Snox801

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Yes the 2.0 block is better than the 2.3 and there are many ways to make power but the easiest and fastest way is with a 2.3 Corsair engine. You are starting with 45 hp and 33 tq off the bat without touching anything assuming you score the 46mm 2.3 turbo as well.

A tune alone adds appx 20% more power to the 2.0. So let’s use ricer math and assume the same for the 2.3 and add a tune, intake, intercooler, downpipe, and catback. The 4 people I know who have purchased a 2.3 bought a 57mm turbo as well. It would be a waste to go through all that and keep the stock turbo.

Add all that up and you have a Maverick that’s out of fuel at give or take 375 wheel. The Ranger guys with the same turbo and fuel upgrades are well over 400 to the tires but they also have a stronger transmission.

The swap was actually done over the weekend and only took long to get running because I was having a downpipe for the Ranger turbo made among other things. I used the 2.0 harness and only swapped over the line pictured below because of the plug location. The other issue was the turbo not making boost which turned out being that connector 1 and 2 on the waste gate is opposite on the Ranger. A simple wire switch took care of that.

If you can find a Corsair 2.3 for a decent price I say go for it. I did it by myself with no instructions or anyone to ask for advice. Not that it’s needed but if anyone doing it has any questions I’m happy to help.
IMG_3215.jpeg
Just want to point out that no the 2.0 block is not “better”. They are easier to build bigger power but not better. This has been very well hashed out.
The 2.0 has a closed deck which allows for an easy swap of internal parts and add a lot of boost. No machining really needed. But if the 2.3 has a proper deck brace to eliminate cowbelling, it will hold all the same power as the 2.0 but with vastly better cooling around cylinders and base of head.
Way back when I started my search for my long block I called every shop.
So all the big shops like Livernois, montune, and Map all explained in detail why the 2.3 was better but cost more.
Now at that time Map supplied one of the tuners with his engines that he passed off as his.
But back to the swap.
 

Snox801

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I doubt it based solely on how long his truck was down afterwards, but hey, go for it. There are many things possible with time and money.
Or maybe he was simply very busy.
And with this man being the main guy selling maverick parts I bet year down the roads he’s gonna only get more busy.
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