15.2v charging seems a bit high while driving

[Darnon]

did you have any experience that says the H5 battery (weise) will fit just as easy?

H5 requires removing the plastic bin panels to install and cutting/flattening the metal battery positioning tabs on the truck because it's a larger battery.

Sponsored

 

[scotty]

H5 requires removing the plastic bin panels to install and cutting/flattening the metal battery positioning tabs on the truck because it's a larger battery.

Great gratitude for that info

 

[scotty]

H5 requires removing the plastic bin panels to install and cutting/flattening the metal battery positioning tabs on the truck because it's a larger battery.

Hi Darnon. You mentioning cuttng/flattening tabs. Are those tabs under the battery?
What did you do to the tabs? Hammer them down, use saw blade?

 

[mav47]

@scotty

Ford will likely not replace your battery unless it doesn't pass their standard battery test. Going by what I've read on these forums, you will have "deep sleep" occurrences well ahead of that time with the stock battery.

Ford likely won't replace it with anything else but a Ford approved battery, which will be another stock FLA battery.

Deep sleep is just mostly a slight annoyance. Nothing more.

Deep sleep roughly explained:

The truck has a bunch of systems active while parked, things like the FordPass connectivity (over the cellular network), WiFi module, keyless entry system (reading the key fob in your pocket), etc. All those systems together require a not insignificant amount of power, which comes from the 12V battery. So the battery drains while you're parked.

When the battery voltage drops to somewhere close to 12V (when the truck is parked) then it will report "deep sleep" on your FordPass app, and then shut down the remote connectivity, as well as things like the interior light when you get into the vehicle, turn off the key fob sensing, things like that.

The truck will still start ok, so there's no real issue.

Shutting down these systems will save quite a bit of power draw, and will make the battery last a lot longer while your truck is parked. There are still some systems active in the vehicle though, but the draw is significantly lower than it was before.

At some point you won't be able to turn on the truck, but by that time the battery is probably well below 11.5V. That could still take weeks.

So "deep sleep" is just a trick up the truck's sleeve to lower the battery draw, so it can sit longer while parked.

Now it turns out, as reported by many others here, that an AGM battery works better in the Maverick Hybrid; it shows more normal 14.6-14.7V charging voltages on average, and will last significantly longer while parked. Mine got to 16 days until it went into deep sleep and that's the only time I have seen it do that.

Before I swapped my battery for an AGM I had deep sleeps happen seemingly randomly, usually after 2-3 days, but sometimes right after parking it (?!). That's when I replaced the battery with a Group 140R AGM.

How the Maverick Hybrid charges the 12V battery:

While driving, the 12V battery gets charged by the DC-DC converter (=the modern day alternator) powered from the high voltage battery (which itself gets charged from the traction motors in the transaxle). The software tries to keep the 12V battery between 60 and 80% state of charge by changing the voltage between 14.4-15.3V (while charging) and 13.0-ish Volts when not charging. I read somewhere that Ford claims that this 60-80% charge philosophy improves battery longevity but I think it is much more likely that it improves EPA fuel economy by a hair, which is probably the real reason.

Interestingly: Driving with my stock FLA battery the system voltage was ALWAYS above 15V, never lower, so it was always trying to charge the battery. With the new AGM battery the system behaves as expected, and will charge at 14.6-14.7V for a while and then sit at 13.0V for long periods (because the 12V battery reached 80% and the system stops charging).



Your question about 80RC:
That stands for Reserve Capacity in minutes, which is a measure on how long the battery will push a given load. The stock battery is I think 65RC, the Group 140R AGM is 80RC, so 25% better.

Bottom line:

If you want the simplest FLA battery swap for an AGM that requires no physical changes and simply drops in: A new H4 / Group 140R AGM is the way to go.

If you want Ford to do this under warranty: they likely won't. At best they'll install another stock FLA battery when your old one is proven toast.

You can also install a much more common (=cost effective) H5 AGM which you can get, as you mentioned, from the Weize brand or various others, but these require bending or cutting the bottom steel locating tab in the truck to make this larger battery fit.

 

[Darnon]

Hi Darnon. You mentioning cuttng/flattening tabs. Are those tabs under the battery?
What did you do to the tabs? Hammer them down, use saw blade?

The tabs are fore/aft of the battery to help position it. I used a pneumatic cutoff wheel, but some have simply bent them flat. An oscillating multi-tool might also work or a Dremel if you're really patient.

 

[scotty]

@scotty

Ford will likely not replace your battery unless it doesn't pass their standard battery test. Going by what I've read on these forums, you will have "deep sleep" occurrences well ahead of that time with the stock battery.

Ford likely won't replace it with anything else but a Ford approved battery, which will be another stock FLA battery.

Deep sleep is just mostly a slight annoyance. Nothing more.

Deep sleep roughly explained:

The truck has a bunch of systems active while parked, things like the FordPass connectivity (over the cellular network), WiFi module, keyless entry system (reading the key fob in your pocket), etc. All those systems together require a not insignificant amount of power, which comes from the 12V battery. So the battery drains while you're parked.

When the battery voltage drops to somewhere close to 12V (when the truck is parked) then it will report "deep sleep" on your FordPass app, and then shut down the remote connectivity, as well as things like the interior light when you get into the vehicle, turn off the key fob sensing, things like that.

The truck will still start ok, so there's no real issue.

Shutting down these systems will save quite a bit of power draw, and will make the battery last a lot longer while your truck is parked. There are still some systems active in the vehicle though, but the draw is significantly lower than it was before.

At some point you won't be able to turn on the truck, but by that time the battery is probably well below 11.5V. That could still take weeks.

So "deep sleep" is just a trick up the truck's sleeve to lower the battery draw, so it can sit longer while parked.

Now it turns out, as reported by many others here, that an AGM battery works better in the Maverick Hybrid; it shows more normal 14.6-14.7V charging voltages on average, and will last significantly longer while parked. Mine got to 16 days until it went into deep sleep and that's the only time I have seen it do that.

Before I swapped my battery for an AGM I had deep sleeps happen seemingly randomly, usually after 2-3 days, but sometimes right after parking it (?!). That's when I replaced the battery with a Group 140R AGM.

How the Maverick Hybrid charges the 12V battery:

While driving, the 12V battery gets charged by the DC-DC converter (=the modern day alternator) powered from the high voltage battery (which itself gets charged from the traction motors in the transaxle). The software tries to keep the 12V battery between 60 and 80% state of charge by changing the voltage between 14.4-15.3V (while charging) and 13.0-ish Volts when not charging. I read somewhere that Ford claims that this 60-80% charge philosophy improves battery longevity but I think it is much more likely that it improves EPA fuel economy by a hair, which is probably the real reason.

Interestingly: Driving with my stock FLA battery the system voltage was ALWAYS above 15V, never lower, so it was always trying to charge the battery. With the new AGM battery the system behaves as expected, and will charge at 14.6-14.7V for a while and then sit at 13.0V for long periods (because the 12V battery reached 80% and the system stops charging).



Your question about 80RC:
That stands for Reserve Capacity in minutes, which is a measure on how long the battery will push a given load. The stock battery is I think 65RC, the Group 140R AGM is 80RC, so 25% better.

Bottom line:

If you want the simplest FLA battery swap for an AGM that requires no physical changes and simply drops in: A new H4 / Group 140R AGM is the way to go.

I see your picture of your battery in the compartment as UPLUS. I looked around for competitors for this 140r haven't found any on the forum. One member showed a die hard agm from Advance auto but I don't know if it would fit in place without altercations.

Do you know for certain if the die hard would fit. Description read give it as T4 battery?

If you want Ford to do this under warranty: they likely won't. At best they'll install another stock FLA battery when your old one is proven toast.

You can also install a much more common (=cost effective) H5 AGM which you can get, as you mentioned, from the Weize brand or various others, but these require bending or cutting the bottom steel locating tab in the truck to make this larger battery fit.

What a great informative presentation you wrote. You must be a very patient guy.
Glad you wrote the description of the battery that fits without bending the steel tabs. i could see in the small space beside the battery at the bottom. It was hard to see it but with flash light you can see it on the negative side of the battery.

@scotty

Ford will likely not replace your battery unless it doesn't pass their standard battery test. Going by what I've read on these forums, you will have "deep sleep" occurrences well ahead of that time with the stock battery.

Ford likely won't replace it with anything else but a Ford approved battery, which will be another stock FLA battery.

Deep sleep is just mostly a slight annoyance. Nothing more.

Deep sleep roughly explained:

The truck has a bunch of systems active while parked, things like the FordPass connectivity (over the cellular network), WiFi module, keyless entry system (reading the key fob in your pocket), etc. All those systems together require a not insignificant amount of power, which comes from the 12V battery. So the battery drains while you're parked.

When the battery voltage drops to somewhere close to 12V (when the truck is parked) then it will report "deep sleep" on your FordPass app, and then shut down the remote connectivity, as well as things like the interior light when you get into the vehicle, turn off the key fob sensing, things like that.

The truck will still start ok, so there's no real issue.

Shutting down these systems will save quite a bit of power draw, and will make the battery last a lot longer while your truck is parked. There are still some systems active in the vehicle though, but the draw is significantly lower than it was before.

At some point you won't be able to turn on the truck, but by that time the battery is probably well below 11.5V. That could still take weeks.

So "deep sleep" is just a trick up the truck's sleeve to lower the battery draw, so it can sit longer while parked.

Now it turns out, as reported by many others here, that an AGM battery works better in the Maverick Hybrid; it shows more normal 14.6-14.7V charging voltages on average, and will last significantly longer while parked. Mine got to 16 days until it went into deep sleep and that's the only time I have seen it do that.

Before I swapped my battery for an AGM I had deep sleeps happen seemingly randomly, usually after 2-3 days, but sometimes right after parking it (?!). That's when I replaced the battery with a Group 140R AGM.

How the Maverick Hybrid charges the 12V battery:

While driving, the 12V battery gets charged by the DC-DC converter (=the modern day alternator) powered from the high voltage battery (which itself gets charged from the traction motors in the transaxle). The software tries to keep the 12V battery between 60 and 80% state of charge by changing the voltage between 14.4-15.3V (while charging) and 13.0-ish Volts when not charging. I read somewhere that Ford claims that this 60-80% charge philosophy improves battery longevity but I think it is much more likely that it improves EPA fuel economy by a hair, which is probably the real reason.

Interestingly: Driving with my stock FLA battery the system voltage was ALWAYS above 15V, never lower, so it was always trying to charge the battery. With the new AGM battery the system behaves as expected, and will charge at 14.6-14.7V for a while and then sit at 13.0V for long periods (because the 12V battery reached 80% and the system stops charging).



Your question about 80RC:
That stands for Reserve Capacity in minutes, which is a measure on how long the battery will push a given load. The stock battery is I think 65RC, the Group 140R AGM is 80RC, so 25% better.

Bottom line:

If you want the simplest FLA battery swap for an AGM that requires no physical changes and simply drops in: A new H4 / Group 140R AGM is the way to go.

If you want Ford to do this under warranty: they likely won't. At best they'll install another stock FLA battery when your old one is proven toast.

You can also install a much more common (=cost effective) H5 AGM which you can get, as you mentioned, from the Weize brand or various others, but these require bending or cutting the bottom steel locating tab in the truck to make this larger battery fit.

What a beauty of a write up.
I did see your UPLUS in your truck with the picture you have.
So very glad you said the Manufacturers name.
I can't find anyone on forum saying their new battery bought fits into the compartment without cutting or pushing down the tabs underneath battery.

I did see forum member say die hard battery from advance auto was what he bought but he didn't mention if he had to cut or hammer down tabs. in additon its $220. advance a. shows the description as a T4 which I don't know if that is same size as your 140R. Do you?

Do you know of any other batteries with your description and fits into the compartment as easily as yours other then UPLUS in case UPLUS can't one day get it?

We as owners should not have a battery issue. I have read people pull their fuse 11.

If and when my stock battery goes sour need to be prepared. I'm getting 12v on battery in morning after driving the day before.

 

[scotty]

The tabs are fore/aft of the battery to help position it. I used a pneumatic cutoff wheel, but some have simply bent them flat. An oscillating multi-tool might also work or a Dremel if you're really patient.

Darnon thanks for sharing the pics. So did the H5 Weise battery you bought fit good after you removed the tabs Height Width Length?

 

[mav47]

@scotty

ANY Group 140R battery will drop right in, no tweaks needed.

Just make sure it is an AGM.

It doesn't matter if it is that UPlus I bought, that AC Delco you see owners mentioning around here, or any other Group 140R: it will fit without mods.

 

[okgaz]

In these forums I did not find a single "GROUP TYPE" for the proper battery in the Maverick Hybrid. Various owners put an H5 type battery in their Hybrid, but had to cut off two tabs that keep the battery in place. I didn't like that idea as I feel the battery should be safely held in case of collisions, etc.

Someone in this forum (sorry, cannot find the post, otherwise I'd link it) posted a link to this website, which was helpful.

As it turns out, after measuring the proper battery size for the Maverick Hybrid is:

GROUP 140R (=BCI code, most common in US)
LN1 (seems to be a Yuasa Japanese code)
H4 (DIN code, so European designation)

And it bolts right in.

I found that 50Ah AGM versions of this battery type listed around 570CCA and 80RC (=reserve capacity, which is likely more important for the hybrid than CCA)

Compare that to the OEM flooded chemistry battery that came with the truck: 45Ah, 65RC.

I bought one of these Group 140R/LN1/H4 UPLus AGM batteries on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CM3GZWXX?th=1, but do note that they only showed Qty 20 in stock and now they don't show H4 as available anymore (only H5, H6 are currently listed, but that may change again). Was a bit of a gamble, but the company behind these batteries is a big one so I thought I'd try it for $134 minus a 10% coupon and including shipping. Most all these AGM batteries are made overseas anyways, I think you can have just as much good or bad luck with a better known brand one.

That UPlus battery came shipped in GREAT packaging, well protected and seems well made. I think it will be fine.

An alternative I looked at is that LN1 AC Delco that was listed above by @uga , also at RockAuto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8878472

I think you likely cannot go wrong as long as you buy a battery of this group 140R size and as long at it is an AGM battery.

I'll post if my luck with this UPlus battery changes

Really appreciate all your helpful responses on here.

Dealing with the deep sleep issue since purchase. Battery died twice with the second time resulting in my engine not recognising the battery even after a jump (thus not engaging and I was stuck in electric mode).

I have turned off connectivity & wifi via truck, deleted the application from my phone, keep it trickle charged overnight, and planning on installing an AGM.

Looks like the easiest way to install a battery is to remove the plastic under the rear seat and get access to the battery & mount without using an extender and messing with small spaces.

How did you get that off? Any tips or suggestions?

 

[Random]

Charging the battery is good, all of the other things I did just because they are unnecessary but won’t help the deep sleep battery. Switching to AGM will help until the “fix” is released.

The plastic really just pops off, so just go slow. If you have plastic interior tools use them. I suggest keeping the battery unhooked until you get the plastic back in. Positive first then negative.

 

[mav47]

Really appreciate all your helpful responses on here.

Dealing with the deep sleep issue since purchase. Battery died twice with the second time resulting in my engine not recognising the battery even after a jump (thus not engaging and I was stuck in electric mode).

I have turned off connectivity & wifi via truck, deleted the application from my phone, keep it trickle charged overnight, and planning on installing an AGM.

Looks like the easiest way to install a battery is to remove the plastic under the rear seat and get access to the battery & mount without using an extender and messing with small spaces.

How did you get that off? Any tips or suggestions?

@okgaz
@Random

I'm sorry to see what people are going through dealing with this nonsense.

You for sure need to replace the battery with an AGM, that should completely take care of your deep sleep and low battery issues. I put a UPlus Group 140R AGM (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CM3KNG1H) in mine which completely fixed it for me. Zero random deep sleeps. You may only get a deep sleep if you park the truck for multiple weeks, and that's what the deep sleep feature is actually for.

I personally would turn on the Fordpass connectivity and the WiFi back on, because I like the functionality it offers (remote start, tire pressure warning while parked, see the truck's location, etc.). And once you have an AGM battery in there, even with all the connectivity turned on, the Maverick can sit parked for weeks until you get a deep sleep, and then it will still probably be able to sit for another 4-6 weeks until it would really require a jump to start it). Colder climates may shorten this a bit, but likely not by much.

Ford supposedly will be updating the onboard software with a recall for this issue, which probably just makes the onboard systems a bit more efficient and use a little less power. That will be nice, but even without it, you'll likely find these low battery issues are gone anyway.

However, based on what you reported, there's this:

The 2022 and it looks like even some 2023 Maverick Hybrids have had production quality problems with the main cable connecting the battery (under the rear seat) to the main power distribution (under the hood). There is a ring terminal cable lug that is soldered (!!!) to the cable end under the hood, and mine (as well as many reported others) had a bad solder connection there. This randomly "disconnects" the battery from the vehicle at times. If this is the case, you'll find your truck suddenly dead as a dodo, after which a jump will bring it to life. If the connection is especially poor there, then I could imagine it may do what yours did (not see the 12V battery after a jump start).

You seem to have a 2024, and these should have the updated cable that was also installed into mine. But since these terminals are all soldered and then covered with insulating heat shrink tubing, it wouldn't surprise me if there could still be the occasional dud one. That's just guessing on my end though.

In your case:

I would drop in a new AGM battery, reset the BMS and see how it goes. (remember: Ford won't do this, they will only install a stock FLA battery and with those you'll still ultimately have the same issues).

Most likely with a new AGM battery your 12V battery problems will now be gone.

If you still have trouble, then I think a possible cause could be that cable problem described above. You'd be off to the Ford Dealer now. There is a Customer Satisfaction Program (=something short of a recall) with number CSP-22B39 on this issue.

About the plastic surround:

@Random is right: it is really easy. Just pull the threshold trim below the RH rear door first, and then pull up on the main plastic battery surround from that corner. You'll feel the clips dislodge one by one.

If you can, please report back how it goes after you put that battery in.

Cheers!

 

[okgaz]

@okgaz
@Random

I'm sorry to see what people are going through dealing with this nonsense.

You for sure need to replace the battery with an AGM, that should completely take care of your deep sleep and low battery issues. I put a UPlus Group 140R AGM (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CM3KNG1H) in mine which completely fixed it for me. Zero random deep sleeps. You may only get a deep sleep if you park the truck for multiple weeks, and that's what the deep sleep feature is actually for.

I personally would turn on the Fordpass connectivity and the WiFi back on, because I like the functionality it offers (remote start, tire pressure warning while parked, see the truck's location, etc.). And once you have an AGM battery in there, even with all the connectivity turned on, the Maverick can sit parked for weeks until you get a deep sleep, and then it will still probably be able to sit for another 4-6 weeks until it would really require a jump to start it). Colder climates may shorten this a bit, but likely not by much.

Ford supposedly will be updating the onboard software with a recall for this issue, which probably just makes the onboard systems a bit more efficient and use a little less power. That will be nice, but even without it, you'll likely find these low battery issues are gone anyway.

However, based on what you reported, there's this:

The 2022 and it looks like even some 2023 Maverick Hybrids have had production quality problems with the main cable connecting the battery (under the rear seat) to the main power distribution (under the hood). There is a ring terminal cable lug that is soldered (!!!) to the cable end under the hood, and mine (as well as many reported others) had a bad solder connection there. This randomly "disconnects" the battery from the vehicle at times. If this is the case, you'll find your truck suddenly dead as a dodo, after which a jump will bring it to life. If the connection is especially poor there, then I could imagine it may do what yours did (not see the 12V battery after a jump start).

You seem to have a 2024, and these should have the updated cable that was also installed into mine. But since these terminals are all soldered and then covered with insulating heat shrink tubing, it wouldn't surprise me if there could still be the occasional dud one. That's just guessing on my end though.

In your case:

I would drop in a new AGM battery, reset the BMS and see how it goes. (remember: Ford won't do this, they will only install a stock FLA battery and with those you'll still ultimately have the same issues).

Most likely with a new AGM battery your 12V battery problems will now be gone.

If you still have trouble, then I think a possible cause could be that cable problem described above. You'd be off to the Ford Dealer now. There is a Customer Satisfaction Program (=something short of a recall) with number CSP-22B39 on this issue.

About the plastic surround:

@Random is right: it is really easy. Just pull the threshold trim below the RH rear door first, and then pull up on the main plastic battery surround from that corner. You'll feel the clips dislodge one by one.

If you can, please report back how it goes after you put that battery in.

Cheers!

Thanks again, mate! Very helpful. Will absolutely update the thread. For now:

Turned on all the connectivity again since I will be trickle charging most nights and hopefully have an AGM in the next week or so. I hear you. Was probably a knee-jerk reaction to this frustrating situation.

I ended up ordering this battery before seeing your suggestion:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8878472

Thoughts on that one versus the one you suggested? They look identical in size and specs to me.

EDIT - I see you already listed the AC Delco as a viable alternative after going back two pages. Sorry!

Finally, my plan is to bring CSP-22B39 up at my next oil change. I still have some Ford points to burn and want to get the ask on record. At least ask if they are willing to check the solder. At most replace it given my issues. But again, likely just creating a document trail.

 

[mav47]

Thanks again! Will absolutely update the thread. For now:

Turned on all the connectivity again since I will be trickle charging most nights and hopefully have an AGM in the next week or so. I hear you. Was probably a knee-jerk reaction to this frustrating situation.

I ended up ordering this battery before seeing your suggestion:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8878472

Thoughts on that one versus the one you suggested? They look identical in size and specs to me.

Finally, my plan is to bring CSP-22B39 up at my next oil change. I still have some Ford points to burn and want to get the ask on record. At least ask if they are willing to check the solder. At most replace it given my issues. But again, likely just creating a document trail.

That AC Delco battery is a Group 140R AGM, should be fine. It will drop right in. The more important Reserve Capacity (RC) rating at 80 min is the same as the UPlus, with marginally lower CCA but that doesn't matter for the Hybrid because the engine instead starts from the HV battery. So essentially: no difference.

I would charge it to 100% on the bench using your trickle charger, install it into the truck, reset the BMS and then park the truck overnight, you'll find the BMS reset instructions here on the forum. (it is a weird procedure: tap the brakes a number of times and flash the high beams a few times, anyway, simple stuff.)

Documenting that issue you described into the record seems wise!

But most likely: you'll find your low battery troubles gone after the AGM.

Cheers!

 

[deputylynch]

@scotty

My original picture was taken with the battery enclosure/cargo bin under the seat removed (and I put it back in after replacing the battery). I recall it actually only took a few minutes to remove it.

Open the rear doors, put up the rear bench seat, empty the storage bins on both sides of the battery, and remove the lid above the battery.

Next you can pull up on the threshold trim that covers the bottom of the rear door opening (just pull it up). After this is out you'll see the edge of that cargo bin/battery enclosure is free to be lifted.

Now you can pull up on cargo bin itself, It is also simply clicked in in multiple places using clips and you mostly pull it straight up. Start in one corner, and then work your way around. It'll be completely loose and you simply lift it out of the truck. If I recall correctly, there were no bolts to undo, but don't quote me on that, as it has been six months or so.

What you'll end up with then is the view as in my original picture with lots of access around the battery, making it easy to replace it. Reassemble in the reverse order.

To me it seems much easier to pull this cargo bin/battery enclosure out versus not doing so and trying to get to the battery hold down clamps using long extensions, etc.

Good luck!

I've tried everything to get that tray out and cannot get it.

Did you removed the H4 battery before trying to lift the tray out and then if so will it pop back in after the H5 is installed?

 

[mav47]

@deputylynch

I had no problem pulling it out. I remember simply pulling it up vertically out of the clips that hold it in place. You may have to yank it a bit as these clips can be tight.

Good luck!

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