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Overlooked Subwoofer Problem(especially with hybrid)(Nerd Stuff)

BluegrassNbass

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When you buy and pay for install from stereo shops....shouldn't they take care of this?
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rallyshark

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When you buy and pay for install from stereo shops....shouldn't they take care of this?
I would imagine so, but I do everything myself. I'm not paying somebody to do something I can do. Besides, DIY is half the fun.
 

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When you buy and pay for install from stereo shops....shouldn't they take care of this?
I don't think most shops would be aware of forscan or willing to make changes with it if they did.

they would instead use a dsp to restore the signal to pre filtered state if possible.
 

Bushpilot

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Subwoofing is what I do after getting my sammich.
 

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I guess I'm going to open this can of worms with Forscan. I just ordered the cable from Amazon, lol. I'm going to be doing some research in the next few days to see if I can nail down the right changes. A quick search on the net showed me an overwhelming amount of info, so I'll need to decipher all of that down to dummy level for myself😅

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Also screw Ford for not giving us a flat eq curve and making this crap way more trouble than it should be :(
This is the one I use. There's cheaper, but I wanted to be sure it worked.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F
 

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Aaron F

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I haven't seen anyone post that has the B&O and got the PAC Amp Pro kit to flatten the curve and keep all the OEM bells and whistles. I had enough amazon points to buy it and just had an install done. This is the configuration screen on the Amp Pro. There isn't a ton you can change, but you can adjust the factory EQ frequency for bass, mid, and treble, along with Q factor. Screenshot of what you get:


Ford Maverick Overlooked Subwoofer Problem(especially with hybrid)(Nerd Stuff) pac config1
 
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rallyshark

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I haven't seen anyone post that has the B&O and got the PAC Amp Pro kit to flatten the curve and keep all the OEM bells and whistles. I had enough amazon points to buy it and just had an install done. This is the configuration screen on the Amp Pro. There isn't a ton you can change, but you can adjust the factory EQ frequency for bass, mid, and treble, along with Q factor. Screenshot of what you get:


pac config1.JPG
Thanks for posting Aaron! I've always been curious about those kits, even though I don't have the B&O system. It looks like it basically changes the bass/midd/high settings to a 3 band parametric EQ. That Chime volume level is a handy thing to have!
 

Aaron F

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Thanks for posting Aaron! I've always been curious about those kits, even though I don't have the B&O system. It looks like it basically changes the bass/midd/high settings to a 3 band parametric EQ. That Chime volume level is a handy thing to have!
I don't know that the kit changes it, it just gives you the option to modify the factory default controls, and the flat signal coming out from front, rear, and sub output. I definitely did use the chime control to turn that down.
 
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rallyshark

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I had a chance to get into Forscan, and there's a EQ mode setting in the easy format without going into the "as built"! I attached pics. Anyway, I can definitely tell the low bass is back and the bass overall sounds normal now!! I ran test tones down to 15hz(for science) and the factory head unit is no longer killing the low stuff. Before, I couldn't even get the slightest sound(or sub movement) from a 20hz test tone, and now I feel it in my chest:devilish: No, it's not crazy loud, but there's only so much a single 10 in a small enclosure can do. The sub is definitely hitting the note though.

I can't speak on if it actually flattened the entire signal or what that signal even looks like now, but it did restore bass to normal. When I have more time, I'll try and compare to my previous settings after I get things dialed back in. I have my DSP getting it's sub signal from the front inputs. I didn't have time to monkey around with the speaker size settings and all that stuff to see if it would give a full spectrum signal to the rears or not. I feel like it would though. I'm using the rear outs from the head unit, but I have them crossed over at 120hz for the 4" rears I have. Now I need a few days of drive time to truly get a feel for the sound, because I don't like to crank it at my house. I try to be respectful to my neighbors.

Ford Maverick Overlooked Subwoofer Problem(especially with hybrid)(Nerd Stuff) EQFLAT1


Ford Maverick Overlooked Subwoofer Problem(especially with hybrid)(Nerd Stuff) EQFLAT2
 
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Mike_Peluso

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First, thank you very much for this. My Maverick is on order, and I would like to put together an after market system. I'm saving for the components now. Reading all this info has been enlightening. I don't completely grasp all of it, especially modifying the EQ settings on the factory head unit, but it's clear that there will be some hoop jumping in my future.

Do you have a post anywhere with the equipment you use? I'd be interested to know that.

Also, I'm very much looking forward to seeing your measurements now that you've gone in and changed the EQ settings.

I can't speak on if it actually flattened the entire signal or what that signal even looks like now, but it did restore bass to normal. When I have more time, I'll try and compare to my previous settings after I get things dialed back in.
 
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rallyshark

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First, thank you very much for this. My Maverick is on order, and I would like to put together an after market system. I'm saving for the components now. Reading all this info has been enlightening. I don't completely grasp all of it, especially modifying the EQ settings on the factory head unit, but it's clear that there will be some hoop jumping in my future.

Do you have a post anywhere with the equipment you use? I'd be interested to know that.

Also, I'm very much looking forward to seeing your measurements now that you've gone in and changed the EQ settings.
From my initial listening tests, I don't think it fully flattened the factory EQ settings, but did give me back the low end bass. The reason you want to flatten the factory EQ settings is because Ford basically applies EQ adjustments to the signal going to your speakers(or aftermarket setup), and these are outside of the bass/mid/high settings that are user adjustable. It makes it very hard to get really good sound when installing aftermarket setups. A DSP in your aftermarket system is a must in my opinion. Be it with kicker key options or a dedicated separate DSP that lets you adjust the sound.

I haven't really done a dedicated post about my install. My system currently consists of Dynaudio 6.5" component set up front, and polk 4" coax in the rear. The rears aren't super important, but do add a great 3 dimensional sound when properly setup for rear fill. My sub is a Hertz 10" MPS 250 S2, and it is all powered by an Audison 5 channel amp(SR5.600). Sound is controlled by an Audio Dynamics dsp46AT. I'll be the first to say, there are MANY options on which components to use. The biggest common denominator that is critical of getting good sound will be a DSP of some sort :)
 

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The Kicker Key makes the process super easy since they provide a microphone and it only take the push of a single button to get the automatic tuning done. Paired with my plug and play harness makes this a super simple install. I've built over a thousand of these for the F150 guys as well.
 
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rallyshark

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The Kicker Key makes the process super easy since they provide a microphone and it only take the push of a single button to get the automatic tuning done. Paired with my plug and play harness makes this a super simple install. I've built over a thousand of these for the F150 guys as well.
Yes, they are great for a lot of people, but they can't put frequencies there that the head unit isn't sending. The Maverick head unit cuts low bass completely out, so low end response is basically non-existent below 30-35hz. Most people won't really notice that missing signal, and they are a good option for your average listener. Unfortunately, I do notice it, so it isn't really a good option for me(see previous comments). Also, it is always best for SQ when you can start out with a flat signal from the head unit. Without doing that, the key(or any DSP) is having to EQ an EQ'd signal.

Again, the Kicker Key products are great for a lot of people, and I'm not knocking them, but they aren't what I'm looking for :)
 

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I'm wondering if you can try the same codes that flatten the signal on the F150s to work on the Mavericks? If someone wants to give this a try and report back that would be awesome.

727-01-01 xx5A xxxx xxxx
727-01-02 00xx

One flattens and the other provide a low level instead of high level. The level change shouldn't really matter but I'm more interested in the flattening of the signal.
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