K&N air filters for Hybrid Maverick?

[NoVaJimmy]

But it's a truck.
It will always be a truck.
It will only be a truck.
No matter how much you love it, it won't last forever.

It's also not a medical grade device.
It's overkill what many propose.
It does not NEED sterile sub micron level filtration. It just doesn't.

I don't condemn people for using paper or whatever.

I don't even consider all filters equal.
They are not.

Let me say that again:

ALL FILTERS ARE NOT EQUAL.

With millions sold, K&N are adequate.
That's it.
But I get what you are saying and I agree there can be greater chance of fuck ups with them, so maybe the amateur motorist should stick to OEM.

I think you'd have a really hard case convincing anyone I'm being in any way unreasonable here.

The biggest issue with a k&n is oil on the map sensor. It's a thing. Also not something you want to do. Turbo plus lean conditions equals melted pistons. You're more than welcome to do whatever you want though.

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[GPSMan]

Someone stole my turbo.

 

[NoVaJimmy]

Someone stole my turbo.

You still have a MAF that doesn't like viscus fluids coating it. An Atkinson motor can run lean too. This is no different from oil discussions though. Everyone has an opinion and everyone is an expert in their own mind. Like my unit commander told me in the military many years ago "do whatever your career (maverick) can withstand"

 

[GPSMan]

Thanks for replying without being rude. There are two sides to every coin. The more people disagree on something, the less likely there is one correct answer.

 

[Guv]

I’m just sad to find out I’m an amateur motorist

 

[nikorasu]

Words like 'better' are subjective and don't really belong in the conversation. Words like 'higher' or 'lower' are measurable vs a baseline.

Paper = Proper filtration if meeting OEM spec, Adequate air flow.

K&N = Lower filtration than OEM spec, Higher air flow.

Does that airflow get you anything, according to Jason over at EE, his Crosstrek on a dyno was about 3% more powerful with the K&N. I'm sorry but loosing 0.2 seconds (9.0 vs 8.8) on a 20mph to 60mph test is not worth it unless you are actually racing the car, and this is not F1.

Also while the manual states changing the filter every 30k miles, it only really needs to be changed when it is loaded to the point it is hindering airflow. Of course you will loose a few HP but it's not going to lower fuel economy as the ECM will just meter an equivalent less amount of fuel. In the EE video there was a negligible difference between a new OEM and dirty OEM filter on the dyno.

So, if 50 - 100 micron (very fine sand, cement dust) can easily enter the chambers, you would expect to see scoring on the sidewalls of the pistons. Fine for a racing engine that only gets a few hundred miles of use but not for the lifetime of a road vehicle.

 

[Burdy]

Naturally aspirated, K&N=OK
Turbo/Blown= No Go

 

[DesertSweat]

But it's a truck.
It will always be a truck.
It will only be a truck.
No matter how much you love it, it won't last forever.

It's also not a medical grade device.
It's overkill what many propose.
It does not NEED sterile sub micron level filtration. It just doesn't.

I don't condemn people for using paper or whatever.

I don't even consider all filters equal.
They are not.

Let me say that again:

ALL FILTERS ARE NOT EQUAL.

With millions sold, K&N are adequate.
That's it.
But I get what you are saying and I agree there can be greater chance of fuck ups with them, so maybe the amateur motorist should stick to OEM.

I think you'd have a really hard case convincing anyone I'm being in any way unreasonable here.

I too prefer my cylinder walls polished from all the micron sized debris that gets trapped in the ring lands. Lol.

Your truck is now always be a truck with increased engine wear.

 

[mamboman777]

 

[DesertSweat]

Naturally aspirated, K&N=OK
Turbo/Blown= No Go

K&N are never OK unless you are fine accelerating engine wear to get higher airflow. Doesn't matter if forced or naturally aspirated.

 

[GPSMan]

I too prefer my cylinder walls polished from all the micron sized debris that gets trapped in the ring lands. Lol.

Your truck is now always be a truck with increased engine wear.

Never worn out an engine. Ever.
And I drive every car & truck I own to 200,000 miles and beyond.
Can't argue with success and that kind of success with entry level vehicles, which is what the Maverick is in case you didn't notice.

 

[Automate]

I put a K&N air filter in my 2006 Sonata V6 at its first filter change. It currently has over 265,000 miles on it and the engine is still going strong and does not burn oil. The rest of the car is starting to fall apart and I'm sure will die before the engine.

 

[GPSMan]

I put a K&N air filter in my 2006 Sonata V6 at its first filter change. It currently has over 265,000 miles on it and the engine is still going strong and does not burn oil. The rest of the car is starting to fall apart and I'm sure will die before the engine.

This is exactly what reality looks like.

 

[DesertSweat]

This is exactly what reality looks like.

This is what an anecdote looks like.

 

[DesertSweat]

Never worn out an engine. Ever.
And I drive every car & truck I own to 200,000 miles and beyond.
Can't argue with success and that kind of success with entry level vehicles, which is what the Maverick is in case you didn't notice.

particulates in dust are abrasive. Abrasives wear down soft steel and iron. This is fact. Not psuedoscience

Particulate study on engine wear

Now it may not greatly impact, but you are literally choosing to cause more wear to run an air filter that you think might increase HP by what 2??……on a hybrid vehicle. Oh and it’s payback period is non existent and you spend more time cleaning then installing a new filter.

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