Cheap auto-dimming, homelink mirror

[MLowe05]

Interesting, been having my mirror in now for 7 months, with ZERO issue, how do you explain that?

It's speculation, but the Lariat does have ambient lighting that the XLT does not. Perhaps that's why the only people reporting issues with this are Lariat owners that I can find?

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[Dad]

It's speculation, but the Lariat does have ambient lighting that the XLT does not. Perhaps that's why the only people reporting issues with this are Lariat owners that I can find?

Chalk this up to a Bermuda Triangle level mystery. I have a Lariat and followed up Eagle's directions and don't have any issues. Not to say others don't. Someone here (the unofficial Ford R&D and Technical Support team) will figure it out.

 

[Mabcim]

Interesting, been having my mirror in now for 7 months, with ZERO issue, how do you explain that?

I don’t have an explanation. All I can say is what my volt meter read. And what others say their meter read. With the meter connected, I varied the brightness and the voltage changed.
Again, this the purple wire.

I did this test before trying to connect anything. Once I confirmed the voltage varied, no way I was going to connect to it. Especially the way I went, with a Ford mirror and separate homelink. I know the homelink won’t work unless it is 12v.

 

[Eagle11]

I don’t have an explanation. All I can say is what my volt meter read. And what others say their meter read. With the meter connected, I varied the brightness and the voltage changed.
Again, this the purple wire.

I did this test before trying to connect anything. Once I confirmed the voltage varied, no way I was going to connect to it. Especially the way I went, with a Ford mirror and separate homelink. I know the homelink won’t work unless it is 12v.

Maybe theory doesn't match reality. IN theory, it shouldn't work, but it does. Not sure why people have to try and disprove it.

 

[Mabcim]

Not sure why people have to try and disprove it.

I’m glad yours is working, I truly am, but it did not for others. Other posters hooked it all up and then found out it didn’t work. Some used dome light, some used camera, some a combination of both. For me, it has nothing to do with disproving anything, but understanding why some did work and some did not work. Also, some wanted parts tied to accessory and others did not. Besides, when working with electronics it is wise to test before connecting, so I would have tested beforehand anyway. Last thing I want to do is mess up any module/computer in my new vehicle. But more importantly, that things will work. As I mentioned, for my case, the lower than 12v does not work with the homelink I am using. So not theory, actuality.

 

[Eagle11]

I’m glad yours is working, I truly am, but it did not for others. Other posters hooked it all up and then found out it didn’t work. Some used dome light, some used camera, some a combination of both. For me, it has nothing to do with disproving anything, but understanding why some did work and some did not work. Also, some wanted parts tied to accessory and others did not. Besides, when working with electronics it is wise to test before connecting, so I would have tested beforehand anyway. Last thing I want to do is mess up any module/computer in my new vehicle. But more importantly, that things will work. As I mentioned, for my case, the lower than 12v does not work with the homelink I am using. So not theory, actuality.

I returned to read people's posts; some have a compass, but the mirrors I have installed do not. I have installed four mirrors to date and have no issues.

 

[Mabcim]

I returned to read people's posts; some have a compass, but the mirrors I have installed do not. I have installed four mirrors to date and have no issues.

That might explain it.
Some electronics can handle lower voltages, depends on their internal voltage regulator. Also needed amperage to run.
To just dim, it shouldn’t take much current to ‘trip’ the film.
Compass would be a different story, as well as homelink.
With homelink on the constant 12v, that would be fine.

Since I wanted homelink and dim on accessory, it had to be a full 12v. Which is what was at the camera.

 

[Eagle11]

That might explain it.
Some electronics can handle lower voltages, depends on their internal voltage regulator. Also needed amperage to run.
To just dim, it shouldn’t take much current to ‘trip’ the film.
Compass would be a different story, as well as homelink.
With homelink on the constant 12v, that would be fine.

Since I wanted homelink and dim on accessory, it had to be a full 12v. Which is what was at the camera.

Homelink needs a small burst of power, not a constant source

 

[Mabcim]

Homelink needs a small burst of power, not a constant source

Correct.
By constant, I was referring to people that wanted to be able to press the button at any time (i.e. open their door and hit the button, without starting their vehicle); constantly available power. Typically a yellow wire.
Versus using accessory power and only being able to use homelink when vehicle is in accessory mode or running.

In either case, the power has to be a ‘solid/good/strong’ 12v while the homelink button is being pressed; needs to able to power the antenna to send the signal. At least with my homelink, and suspect the ones in some of the mirrors as well.

 

[zach57x]

So I installed mine today using @Mabcim's method, and even though it took much longer and cost more, it is defenitlely the correct way to do this, working with sensitive electronics (the camera module). Huge thanks to him for finding the proper conncetors to make this happen. It took me about 3 hours as I went very slow and tested everything multiple times. The mirror cost me about $20 and the supporting connectors, pins (I got 20, but I recommend ordering 30 as you will mess up a few), and wires were about $30

Only had to drop the black covering over the camera module, you don't need to drop the sunglasss holder

@Mabcim had soldered bare wire to the pins on the back of the female connector, they were incredible small so I instead attached pins to fit onto the pins, and they fit. Then covered with heatshrink

Mirror connector harness soldered to the ground and 12v acc on wire

Tucked all the wiring up into the headliner

 

[Mabcim]

@Mabcim had soldered bare wire to the pins on the back of the female connector, they were incredible small so I instead attached pins to fit onto the pins, and they fit. Then covered with heatshrink

Glad it worked for you.
The pins are a good idea. I kind of thought of that when I was doing it, but didn’t want to place another order and wait. And wasn’t sure if they would hold; but the shrink wrap should make it hold.
Good work,

 

[Dad]

Maybe theory doesn't match reality. IN theory, it shouldn't work, but it does. Not sure why people have to try and disprove it.

I have yet to attempt to dim my interior lighting (dash and ambient), so I cannot say if the mirror install has affected that feature. If it does, it still isn't a concern for me, at least not enough to undo the wire tap install and feed down to the fuse panel. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

 

[fishinmagician]

Got mine installed today. As my luck has it, nothing ever goes as planned. I decided to run the wires through the headliner and side pillar to the fuse box under the passenger footwell. That was the easy part, just use a trim removal tool and pull back on the headliner and stuff the wires.

Of course the wires on my mirror were about 8 inches too short to reach the fuse box, so I had to go buy some wire. Then I realized that I had the wrong fuse taps. We need "Micro 2" fuse taps.

Got everything wired up and tapped into fuse 3, which is what everyone recommends. I turn on the truck and get an error message regarding the front camera fault and collision assist is disabled.

I took out the fuse tap and stuck the regular fuse back in, and the error went away. I then tapped into fuse 6, which is also recommended on here, and it works, the only issue is the fuse tap is too bulky so It kind of has to be jammed in there. Oh well, it works.

Drove it around to calibrate the compass and then I programmed the garage door with no issues.

All in all, not too bad, just more troubleshooting than I planned, took about 3 hours to do everything

 

[raymaines]

OK, I was able to install the Kia Mirror and tap into the wiring harness for the Dome lights. I watched a video on YouTube, and in the video, I watch the person telling which wires to use... Complete success. Had to make a run to O'Riely's to get wire connectors.
@Dad

I did exactly as you said, even bought the same type (color, not brand) of splice clips and it didn't work. It showed signs of life but the wires were too thin (or the clips too wide) to make proper contact. I stripped away a little of the wire coating on each of the wires without slicing the wires in two and soldered the wires together and it works perfectly, but what a HUGE pain in the butt! Not much room to work in there, but I did it and it all went back together without difficulty and the sunroof and dome lights all work properly.

Programming the HomeLink button was easy enough after I read the directions, three trips around a traffic circle calibrated the compass, and I think I've got less than $35 invested in the project. WAY more trouble than I expected it to be but it's finished and I'm completely happy with the result. Thank you for posting the photos on page 39 of this thread, I couldn't have done this without your guidance.

 

[SpaceCowboy]

Is there a current place to buy these mirrors at?

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