Rookie mistake on 12v battery change

[ychuck46]

[QUOTE="TacoTanium, post: 914264, member: 28446"
[/QUOTE]
Here is a post on the topic you may want to read as well:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ing-the-telematics-control-unit-module.36040/

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[TacoTanium]

The Maverick has two fuse box locations, one under the hood and the other under the glove box flush against the back wall near the passenger's feet. Fortunately you are dealing with the inside the cab one which is the easier of the two. Just pop the plastic cover off (it pops back on easily when done) and the TCU fuse is in position 11. It is a 5A Micro3 fuse, the newer style, and comes out easily like any fuse.

The dealer did not recommend this; I doubt any would since it is used by Ford more than anyone to collect data on your driving habits, etc. It was a person here in the Mav truck club and it made a lot of sense. We have not noticed anything odd since we did it since we can still receive calls through the truck's screen and so forth. We had all the FordPass apps, wi-fi, and anything else turned off prior to this, but it didn't seem to help since Ford was still using it, and was likely the source of much of the clicking sounds that took place hours after turning the truck off. Only time will tell if it helps the battery situation, and we have a '25 on order to replace this one. May not know before that one comes in. Good luck, guy.

Here is a post on the topic you may want to read as well:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ing-the-telematics-control-unit-module.36040/

Thanks! Does the remote start from the keyfob still works (if you have that feature)?

 

[ychuck46]

Thanks! Does the remote start from the keyfob still works (if you have that feature)?

Not sure; never use it. I believe others said it still does even if you pull the one fuse we discussed.

 

[Ozarkbeard]

Thanks! Does the remote start from the keyfob still works (if you have that feature)?

It should work. I removed fuse 11 not long after I got my 2023 XL hybrid. All fuse 11 powers is the telematics control unit and nothing else. No lights or other warnings appear and everything works as it did before except the TCU.

I have remote start on my XL, although it's an aftermarket Start-X. I'm pretty sure the key fobs work on 315 mHz band and have nothing to do with the TCU, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth or cell tower connection. Same frequency as a garage door opener, at least that's what I've been told.

I use a (noco) battery maintainer occasionally when not driving the truck for a few days. I also reset the BMS after each maintenance charge. I have used maintainers in older vehicles, too, and usually got 5 to 8 years out of the 12 volt batteries. I have had no battery issues with the Maverick in almost 12 months and 17K miles of ownership.
YMMV

 

[mattbuilt1]

I use a (noco) battery maintainer occasionally when not driving the truck for a few days. I also reset the BMS after each maintenance charge. I have used maintainers in older vehicles, too, and usually got 5 to 8 years out of the 12 volt batteries. I have had no battery issues with the Maverick in almost 12 months and 17K miles of ownership.
YMMV

Your maintenance charge followed by a BMS reset when you have a couple days free is the same procedure I am planning to recommend to my mother (she has a '23 Mav Hybrid that kills an AGM every 6 months). My question is, do you connect the maintainer while the battery is in the vehicle or does the battery need to be fully disconnected for any reason?

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

Your maintenance charge followed by a BMS reset when you have a couple days free is the same procedure I am planning to recommend to my mother (she has a '23 Mav Hybrid that kills an AGM every 6 months). My question is, do you connect the maintainer while the battery is in the vehicle or does the battery need to be fully disconnected for any reason?

You may not get a response back from @Ozarkbeard
Sadly it appears he has left the site.
You can't even send a DM.
It has been reported that he is on the Maverick sight on Facebook.
Good luck

 

[rugedraw]

Your maintenance charge followed by a BMS reset when you have a couple days free is the same procedure I am planning to recommend to my mother (she has a '23 Mav Hybrid that kills an AGM every 6 months). My question is, do you connect the maintainer while the battery is in the vehicle or does the battery need to be fully disconnected for any reason?

It can be on the vehicle as long as you connect the charger at the BMS sensor and not directly on the battery terminal.

 

[HeyBales]

It can be on the vehicle as long as you connect the charger at the BMS sensor and not directly on the battery terminal.

That actually doesn't matter.

The BMS does NOT track charging with key off.
So it doesn't matter what side of the battery sensor you are on.

At least charging guidelines say the vehicle should be off.

(if a tech in a shop with vehicle on and battery maintainer on while testing things - different story)

It might be easier under the hood anyway, though either spot allows leaving clamps in place (that don't touch anything), and the QR plug to your charger just plugged in when needed.

 

[HeyBales]

Your maintenance charge followed by a BMS reset when you have a couple days free is the same procedure I am planning to recommend to my mother (she has a '23 Mav Hybrid that kills an AGM every 6 months). My question is, do you connect the maintainer while the battery is in the vehicle or does the battery need to be fully disconnected for any reason?

If the AGM is getting killed that frequently - she has the infrequent parasitic battery drain issue.

There are 3 SSM's on that now, with 3 software updates for the biggest known drains that pop up.
Please search for those so many threads on the subject.

While she easily is getting the undercharged syndrome (unless she drives alot) which isn't going to help a battery recover from a drain event - constant charging isn't the solution to a parasitic drain anyway.

Also - BMS reset only should be done on new battery, not charged. It's reseting some figures that it should be tracking about battery age and health.
Just let it sit overnight after an evening charge - locked 9 hrs. For the BMS relearn.
Manual does divide those 2 things up.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

@mattbuilt1
Thank you for your reply to my DM.
I'm glad you liked my explanation and pictures.
You can leave the charger hooked up under the seat as I show. Keeping the charger and plug on the driver side, allows your easy access to the plug.
It will save your Mom from having to raise the hood each time.
You may want to devise some type of streamer like I have to put on the fob whenever it's plugged in
I hope it helps.

Take care,

GB

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

@mattbuilt1 ,
New DM sent

 

[rugedraw]

That actually doesn't matter.

The BMS does NOT track charging with key off.
So it doesn't matter what side of the battery sensor you are on.

At least charging guidelines say the vehicle should be off.

(if a tech in a shop with vehicle on and battery maintainer on while testing things - different story)

It might be easier under the hood anyway, though either spot allows leaving clamps in place (that don't touch anything), and the QR plug to your charger just plugged in when needed.

Interesting. What you're saying makes sense, but I've always been told to connect it to sensor and not the terminal by techs. I've never asked why. Maybe just some misinformation going around.

 

[HeyBales]

Interesting. What you're saying makes sense, but I've always been told to connect it to sensor and not the terminal by techs. I've never asked why. Maybe just some misinformation going around.

There for sure is. Doesn't matter - just not logged, so not a requirement.
I wish these were not just whole figures or rounded for the BdyCM cumulative figures.
But it makes sense - if BMS tracked charging when in the other states, like external charger when off - these cumulative figures are used to decide what rate to charge for how long while driving.

For instance if you cause a big "Discharge from Battery When Engine is Off" event with doors open lights on radio going - and the cumulative figure goes up. Then the next time you drive the charging Amps will be very high for much longer - if you drive long enough. It'll keep at that for several trips until it reaches balance again.
Then it's back to normal 10 min to reach float level charge again.

So if it logged a big external charge of Amp hours, then to keep balance it would really stop the driving charging until it reached balance.
But if you had external charged it because of a low battery - you'd be right back at that low battery due to no charging while driving for awhile.

The fact you get pretty close to that anyway even without tracking - because the system will normally cause "Discharge from Battery When Engine is On" when AGM is 92% SOC or SLA is 85% SOC - is bad enough. At least the means to fool that has been discovered.

 

[mattbuilt1]

If the AGM is getting killed that frequently - she has the infrequent parasitic battery drain issue.

There are 3 SSM's on that now, with 3 software updates for the biggest known drains that pop up.
Please search for those so many threads on the subject.

I am aware of SSM 53800/53801 and then later 54785. All three seem to be addressing the same thing - software updates to the ABS and ACCM. They just seem to update the procedure to include a battery test and update their billing codes...so I am guessing that 54785 is the only one needed as it is most current. Are these the three you are referring to?

 

[HeyBales]

I am aware of SSM 53800/53801 and then later 54785. All three seem to be addressing the same thing - software updates to the ABS and ACCM. They just seem to update the procedure to include a battery test and update their billing codes...so I am guessing that 54785 is the only one needed as it is most current. Are these the three you are referring to?

Yep - so just in case her's isn't the 2 known reasons causing the issue - she's on record.

And get that battery tested again fully.
Even a properly charged battery can only take so many hits with a big drain and really be ok.
Of course - the warranty line is rather low (like 40% SOC) - but still, they got it, might as well.

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