Battery desulphation

[n4mwd]

I just wanted to throw this in there in case some people didn't know it already. Whenever you desulphate a battery, be sure to do it when its not connected to any car. Some chargers will sense this and tell you they wont operate in the car. Some just expect you to know you are not supposed to do that. Mine was the latter. Burned up the alternator in a chevy. Lucky it didn't burn up other stuff.

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[Chopperbobc]

This is all good information for the forum members....

 

[MaverickDragon]

The best desulphation strategy is to prevent sulphation in the first place, as it occurs when a battery is left in a discharged state.

If the car is on an AGM profile smart charger whenever it's parked, it won't get sulphated.

I've had an AGM batteries last well over a decade when kept charged, and one would have lasted longer if my smart charger didn't have a lobotomy and fried it..

AGMs are different from flooded batteries and the desulphation process itself can often damage the battery rather than improving it.

Keep it charged and the battery can last a long time.

 

[Cherokee]

Upt to 20 hours to fully charge could be longer if battery soc less than 75%. Then depending on sulphation up to 72 hours. My noco g5 will indicate when completed. I would recommend running every 3-4 months so it doesn't take as long and won't get as heavily sulphated .

I hook up my Noco Genius 1 once a month for a 18-24 hour stretch.
My year old AGM is doing ok. Resting VDC is 12.38
That’s a bit low but over my first full year I’ve not seen battery saver mode.

My next battery with be the Wallyworld AGM with its FOUR year full replacement warranty.
Before it goes in I’ll do that full BMS reset procedure with that battery fully peaked.
Then I’ll Fagetaboutit.

I’ll still do my monthly desulfate.

This one’s 120 minute reserve capacity should do it for me. Once or twice a week I got my ACC on and the B&O on for three hours while I’m engine off.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I hook up my Noco Genius 1 once a month for a 18-24 hour stretch.
My year old AGM is doing ok. Resting VDC is 12.38
That’s a bit low but over my first full year I’ve not seen battery saver mode.

My next battery with be the Wallyworld AGM with its FOUR year full replacement warranty.
Before it goes in I’ll do that full BMS reset procedure with that battery fully peaked.
Then I’ll Fagetaboutit.

I’ll still do my monthly desulfate.

This one’s 120 minute reserve capacity should do it for me. Once or twice a week I got my ACC on and the B&O on for three hours while I’m engine off.

Get monitor similar to this one I am using. The lights on noco are a little hard to follow when getting close to end of cycle. Easier to tell if charger is finished. Plug charger into this. If your 12v agm is 12.35 then it needs more time to finish charging and then needs to finish optimization cycles with flashing green light with the orange/red lights off. After 12v charge gets over 93-95% there is no difference in charge procedure of 10, 5,4,1 amp chargers. They should all take same time after that to finish. The 12.35 reading is most likely lowered by 0.2-0.3v because truck is doing something and drawing current.
ETA: attachment

 

[Cherokee]

Get monitor similar to this one I am using. The lights on noco are a little hard to follow when getting close to end of cycle. Easier to tell if charger is finished. Plug charger into this. If your 12v agm is 12.35 then it needs more time to finish charging and then needs to finish optimization cycles with flashing green light with the orange/red lights off. After 12v charge gets over 93-95% there is no difference in charge procedure of 10, 5,4,1 amp chargers. They should all take same time after that to finish. The 12.35 reading is most likely lowered by 0.2-0.3v because truck is doing something and drawing current.
ETA: attachment
View attachment 233692

When new it was 12.3 or 12.4 VDC after a rest period. I believe it to be Fords settings in the BMS circuitry.

 

[todd92]

Absolutely no need to disconnect the battery.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

When new it was 12.3 or 12.4 VDC after a rest period. I believe it to be Fords settings in the BMS circuitry.

The only way I can get at rest readings over 12.5v on mine (12.8 on ford bxt99rt4 max series) is by leaving hood up before turning truck off across positive jump pin and body ground and hour or two later at rest. No fob moving near truck or touching doors, etc. Also if truck is not touched for about 7 days there will be no voltage reading at the jump pins (= deep sleep or possibly just battery save mode??). Can get 11.9-12.1 immediately after starting and stopping truck so have the 0.2-0.3 truck use happening also.

 

[CurtisB]

I hook up my Noco Genius 1 once a month for a 18-24 hour stretch.
My year old AGM is doing ok. Resting VDC is 12.38
That’s a bit low but over my first full year I’ve not seen battery saver mode.

My next battery with be the Wallyworld AGM with its FOUR year full replacement warranty.
Before it goes in I’ll do that full BMS reset procedure with that battery fully peaked.
Then I’ll Fagetaboutit.

I’ll still do my monthly desulfate.

This one’s 120 minute reserve capacity should do it for me. Once or twice a week I got my ACC on and the B&O on for three hours while I’m engine off.

The thing I like about this battery is that it is very inexpensive and it shows that it is made for the Maverick! I have an AGM H5 battery for now. Sometime in 2026 I will buy this one along with the Noco maintenance and.............forgettaboutit!

 

[HeyBales]

The thing I like about this battery is that it is very inexpensive and it shows that it is made for the Maverick! I have an AGM H5 battery for now. Sometime in 2026 I will buy this one along with the Noco maintenance and.............forgettaboutit!

Well - that was the model for the underhood EB Maverick.

H4 is the size of the underseat hybrid Maverick - unless you do some mod's to metal and maybe plastic.

Trying to recall - did you have to trim plastic?

 

[HeyBales]

The only way I can get at rest readings over 12.5v on mine (12.8 on ford bxt99rt4 max series) is by leaving hood up before turning truck off across positive jump pin and body ground and hour or two later at rest. No fob moving near truck or touching doors, etc. Also if truck is not touched for about 7 days there will be no voltage reading at the jump pins (= deep sleep or possibly just battery save mode??). Can get 11.9-12.1 immediately after starting and stopping truck so have the 0.2-0.3 truck use happening also.

Interesting - always tested under the seat with multi-meter, and never left that long.
But that is interesting they would disconnect another relay after some time, or under a certain voltage.

I wonder how that would effect a jumpstart attempt?
Certainly with jump pack not reading a voltage - most wouldn't allow anything to happen.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Interesting - always tested under the seat with multi-meter, and never left that long.
But that is interesting they would disconnect another relay after some time, or under a certain voltage.

I wonder how that would effect a jumpstart attempt?
Certainly with jump pack not reading a voltage - most wouldn't allow anything to happen.

If you open door relays are activated not sure if truck has to be in accessory or ready for jump posts to be active again. I did ready truck and then turned off and jump posts were then activated (this on my Lariat).

 

[HeyBales]

If you open door relays are activated not sure if truck has to be in accessory or ready for jump posts to be active again. I did ready truck and then turned off and jump posts were then activated (this on my Lariat).

Good point - to open hood you are opening door somehow.
And hopefully enough juice left to close whatever relay disconnected the underhood points.
I guess if it was a super bad battery to do nothing when door is opened, it wasn't going to take a jump anyway.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Good point - to open hood you are opening door somehow.
And hopefully enough juice left to close whatever relay disconnected the underhood points.
I guess if it was a super bad with battery, it wasn't going to take a jump anyway.

If I want to get soc of 12v after it settles I open the hood when I get out and turn truck off. Then since I can get voltage off jump posts without opening the door and starting up ford knows what else the 12v reading will be usually 0.2-0.3v higher than if I take it under the seat. If I charge the 12v at the jump posts I can see the fully charge battery for two or three days 12.8 at jump posts.

 

[Master Blaster]

Well - that was the model for the underhood EB Maverick.

H4 is the size of the underseat hybrid Maverick - unless you do some mod's to metal and maybe plastic.

Trying to recall - did you have to trim plastic?

The factory battery on both the ecoboost and the hybrid is a t4. An h4 is the same size except a bit taller. Anything bigger requires mods. A t5 needs a modified baseplate, for example.

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