2025 Hybrid - Potential Battery Drain?

[HeyBales]

So my 2022 STOCK battery (with ScanGaugeIII) did something odd.

Started with 60% showing and 11.1V with headlamps on and dome light on and not much else.

I detached it from the truck.
I put it on a smart (NOCO) 5 amp charger with desulfate cycle for 12 hours.

Reconnected it.
Did no song or dance or headlamp flashing.

Instantly, SOC was reading 95%.

Drove 45 minutes at highway speed.
Mid-way the truck did an instant stair-step on the 12v reading from 95% to 65%.

Parked at 65°F to 80°F for 8 hours.
Restarted. 12v displayed 75% SOC.
Drove 45 minutes on the highway.
Mid-way the truck did a stair-step jump back down to 65% on the display.

Parked overnight for 12 hours.
75°F to 50°F overnight.
Next morning, 70% soc for 12v batt.

Interesting - never had BMS recalc the SOC% while driving that I noticed - which I thought was the whole purpose of a calculated SOC - no voltage readings are good while driving.
Maybe it saw the battery wasn't taking much of a charge.
I'm sure at 45 min into the drive the 12V Amps was already reading 0.

Now - on the few days before my ultimate battery death - the SOC took a noise dive between turn-offs, as did the rate of charge and time at higher rates.
Like it saw another bad cell was likely, so backed off.

Considering the potential time of 75 min to actually go into sleep mode after turn-off, your if exactly 8 hr night may not have been long enough to truly decide what the SOC% should be, but the 12 hr night would be.

Bummer after recharge it was only estimating 70% SOC, not a problem taking the charge, just a problem holding the charge.

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[MakinDoForNow]

So my 2022 STOCK battery (with ScanGaugeIII) did something odd.

(My comments added in parentheses)

Started with 60% showing and 11.1V with headlamps on and dome light on and not much else.

I detached it from the truck.
(I assume scangage is reporting what Ford software measures not doing itself)
I put it on a smart (NOCO) 5 amp charger with desulfate cycle for 12 hours.
(Starting at ford calc 60% 11.1v, am thinking the 11.1 will be accurate. The 12 hours on the noco g5 is not enough time to fully charge as, if I remember correctly, the noco is designed to charge from 70% or 80% to 100% in 20 hours. But, hey, it got it to 95%.)

Reconnected it.
Did no song or dance or headlamp flashing.
(Failure to run the truck locked battery learn which takes up to 12 hours, I believe the first 4-6 hours may be a delay to be sure the battery is at rest. Will result in the 95%soc not being detected and the prior learned fully charged soc has not been updated. If so the truck will target the old 65% or whatever it was as being all the charge that the battery can hold.)

Instantly, SOC was reading 95%.

Drove 45 minutes at highway speed.
Mid-way the truck did an instant stair-step on the 12v reading from 95% to 65%.
(For some reason possibly because the battery dropped to 65%soc which is close to 80% of @HeyBales feeling the Fords fully charged target is 85%soc )

Parked at 65°F to 80°F for 8 hours.
Restarted. 12v displayed 75% SOC.
Drove 45 minutes on the highway.
Mid-way the truck did a stair-step jump back down to 65% on the display.
(Ford updated field when battery got back to the 80% of the fully charged 85% and started the full charge instead of the 1-2 amp top off rate..)

Parked overnight for 12 hours.
75°F to 50°F overnight.
Next morning, 70% soc for 12v batt.

 

[Darryl]

Can you explain more? "the SSM suggesting an update of the air condition control module applies to your vehicle."

SSM?

I did get 1 over the air update for telematics (location based info/modules)

Is there a way to see what updates have been sent or scheduled?

I'm sorry. I was speaking Ford tech language. An SSM is a SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGE that's issued to Ford repair technicians for various reasons. In this case it offers a likely reason and solution to the battery drain problem. It suggests than a software update for the air conditioning control module they released may solve the battery drain issue with the hybrid Maverick. It's not an update that can be done over the air. It has to be brought into the dealership for this particular update.

 

[bcoo4]

It's on the actual ACCM, which is on the AC unit - OTA doesn't appear possible as truck needs to be running while it's updated as part of process.

SSM53801
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...attery-drain-issue-update-fix-released.67045/
Intermittent battery drain due to issue with ACCM.
Note the dates - hence the comment on early production.

Thank You sir!

I will research, investigate, and ask my dealer if this can be looked into further upon warranty since I did have an issue initially.

Thus far, since recharging, and resetting the BMS, I have been able to start and drive normally.

Again, this issue didnt happen until about 6300 miles. But this kind of info is what I was looking for. I appreciate you supplying a link! Thanks!

 

[dwinch53]

Hello Gang,

Figured Id post a thread indicating my first issues with MY25 Hybrid. Off the bat I assume its the classic battery drain issue posted here many times over.
I thought this was mostly fixed going into the 25 refresh?! (Different AGM Battery?)

Alas, When I went to go to work this morning, I opened the door to no Logos on the illuminated screens (just illuminated backlight in black), and just a constant clicking under the hood. The biggest indicator that something was not right, was that I heard the Old Version of the Ford Doorbell Chime (higher treble frequency ding-a-ling - Annoying), Not the usual calmer/quieter ding-a-ling which I have heard only since purchase. The backlights on the screens and buttons would all illuminate and then go out, in a loop. The truck never attempted to turn over upon full key turn.

This lasted about 5 minutes, until clicking stopped and there is no response when turning the key to any position.
I put it on a battery tender and am calling my dealership, asap.
=================================================

Personal Ranting:

I would think with all of the tech on/in this vehicle, there would be a simple way to warn me about the battery potentially getting low or needing a charge?! I mean the App will alert me when my Washer fluid is low... Why would the system allow me to get into a situation like this without a single warning sent to either the app, or during my previous drive? (Saturday afternoon).

Weird thing is, I brought my truck in the previous week for its first oil change. Now this...

I feel like Ford should be supplying a Jump pack free of charge unless they can confirm the issue will not return...

Thank you all for any tips, tricks, advice, and/or info.

I have a 2025 hybrid, have had it for two months, it has never failed to start, I do a LOT of town/city driving..S just for the heck of it I check my Agm batt and it read 12.3 volts, not good, I also read an article that a lot of city driving does not charge the battery to its fullest especially an Agm, so I put my Battery Tender on it over night and now it is reading 12.9 volts...the article(utube) stated that All Hybrids and lots of city driving need periotic trickle charging, Charged it up a few weeks ago and it is holding about the same. a good long drive using the engine will also help to charge that Agm battery

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I have a 2025 hybrid, have had it for two months, it has never failed to start, I do a LOT of town/city driving..S just for the heck of it I check my Agm batt and it read 12.3 volts, not good, I also read an article that a lot of city driving does not charge the battery to its fullest especially an Agm, so I put my Battery Tender on it over night and now it is reading 12.9 volts...the article(utube) stated that All Hybrids and lots of city driving need periotic trickle charging, Charged it up a few weeks ago and it is holding about the same. a good long drive using the engine will also help to charge that Agm battery

You can also Turn off max idle time put in ready state and let it sit in park for the "long drive" time in your driveway. Turn off AC, lights, radio, etc.

 

[HeyBales]

I have a 2025 hybrid, have had it for two months, it has never failed to start, I do a LOT of town/city driving..S just for the heck of it I check my Agm batt and it read 12.3 volts, not good, I also read an article that a lot of city driving does not charge the battery to its fullest especially an Agm, so I put my Battery Tender on it over night and now it is reading 12.9 volts...the article(utube) stated that All Hybrids and lots of city driving need periotic trickle charging, Charged it up a few weeks ago and it is holding about the same. a good long drive using the engine will also help to charge that Agm battery

The Maverick hybrid BMS charging system - and other hybrids I've read about - make absolutely no difference to charging rate between city or highway, if ICE is running or not.
Because there is no alternator. And the 12V system is charged from a DC-DC converter, from the HVB. Not the ICE.

And even cars with alternators since mid 2000's - load cycle the clutch as to how much they really charge - so not really a difference there either. You found some old youtube videos, or specific cars discussed.

Nope, it's total time spent with truck in Ready mode - so sitting in driveway gives exactly the same charging strategy as driving short trips in the city, or short runs on the highway.
Got the logs to show it.
From 15-20 min the charging rate has already dropped to 1-3 Amps for some period of time. Float charge after that.

Since it's about time - the ONLY time it makes a difference, is a very long running time in a day.
And 1 session is better than many short drives with long breaks - because on each turn-off of truck, there is 75 min max before systems go to sleep. During that time there is more battery draw.
But a really long run time or drive, slow or fast, allows a lot longer for the float charge Amps to be given, to finally top off the battery. If the battery is still good enough to take it, and hold it. This is no different than most battery chargers if they can do higher amps, trickle at the end.

Sadly, the BMS system has some bad readings/sensors I think, and it's not doing as well as it thinks on recharge time - leading to an undercharged state, sulfating the battery, leading to less ability to charge higher when possible, eventually causing a problem. AGM would stretch that out at least.
And your trickle charging at some point will too.
Get a power port USB adapter that displays Volts. Compare with multimeter to see how much it's off.
When it displays some lower limit in the morning before starting that you decide - charge time!

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

The Maverick hybrid BMS charging system - and other hybrids I've read about - make absolutely no difference to charging rate between city or highway, if ICE is running or not.
Because there is no alternator. And the 12V system is charged from a DC-DC converter, from the HVB. Not the ICE.

And even cars with alternators since mid 2000's - load cycle the clutch as to how much they really charge - so not really a difference there either. You found some old youtube videos, or specific cars discussed.

Nope, it's total time spent with truck in Ready mode - so sitting in driveway gives exactly the same charging strategy as driving short trips in the city, or short runs on the highway.
Got the logs to show it.
From 15-20 min the charging rate has already dropped to 1-3 Amps for some period of time. Float charge after that.

Since it's about time - the ONLY time it makes a difference, is a very long running time in a day.
And 1 session is better than many short drives with long breaks - because on each turn-off of truck, there is 75 min max before systems go to sleep. During that time there is more battery draw.
But a really long run time or drive, slow or fast, allows a lot longer for the float charge Amps to be given, to finally top off the battery. If the battery is still good enough to take it, and hold it. This is no different than most battery chargers if they can do higher amps, trickle at the end.

Sadly, the BMS system has some bad readings/sensors I think, and it's not doing as well as it thinks on recharge time - leading to an undercharged state, sulfating the battery, leading to less ability to charge higher when possible, eventually causing a problem. AGM would stretch that out at least.
And your trickle charging at some point will too.
Get a power port USB adapter that displays Volts. Compare with multimeter to see how much it's off.
When it displays some lower limit in the morning before starting that you decide - charge time!

Agree will all that.

Here's what's a little weird.
I've found different voltages inside the truck. But up to half a volt.

 

[dwinch53]

The Maverick hybrid BMS charging system - and other hybrids I've read about - make absolutely no difference to charging rate between city or highway, if ICE is running or not.
Because there is no alternator. And the 12V system is charged from a DC-DC converter, from the HVB. Not the ICE.

And even cars with alternators since mid 2000's - load cycle the clutch as to how much they really charge - so not really a difference there either. You found some old youtube videos, or specific cars discussed.

Nope, it's total time spent with truck in Ready mode - so sitting in driveway gives exactly the same charging strategy as driving short trips in the city, or short runs on the highway.
Got the logs to show it.
From 15-20 min the charging rate has already dropped to 1-3 Amps for some period of time. Float charge after that.

Since it's about time - the ONLY time it makes a difference, is a very long running time in a day.
And 1 session is better than many short drives with long breaks - because on each turn-off of truck, there is 75 min max before systems go to sleep. During that time there is more battery draw.
But a really long run time or drive, slow or fast, allows a lot longer for the float charge Amps to be given, to finally top off the battery. If the battery is still good enough to take it, and hold it. This is no different than most battery chargers if they can do higher amps, trickle at the end.

Sadly, the BMS system has some bad readings/sensors I think, and it's not doing as well as it thinks on recharge time - leading to an undercharged state, sulfating the battery, leading to less ability to charge higher when possible, eventually causing a problem. AGM would stretch that out at least.
And your trickle charging at some point will too.
Get a power port USB adapter that displays Volts. Compare with multimeter to see how much it's off.
When it displays some lower limit in the morning before starting that you decide - charge time!

Yup I agree...But when I checked mine for the heck of it the reading was 12.3 that is almost at half charge, I placed my Battery Tender for Agm battery on over night, since then it has been 12.8 to 12.9...no idea why it went low, and low is not good for the battery...was checked under the hood and at the battery, same reading

 

[Matso]

I stopped playing around with my battery issue many months ago and made it the dealership's problem. I filed for buyback under the lemon law and Ford cut me a check for the full sticker plus other expenses after a year and a half of driving it. I wish more owners dealing with this issue would do the same. Maybe then they would be inclined to pay more attention to this matter. Meanwhile they are more than satisfied to sit back and let owners piss around in their garages and spend their own money on a problem no one really understands.

 

[HeyBales]

Yup I agree...But when I checked mine for the heck of it the reading was 12.3 that is almost at half charge, I placed my Battery Tender for Agm battery on over night, since then it has been 12.8 to 12.9...no idea why it went low, and low is not good for the battery...was checked under the hood and at the battery, same reading

For the hybrid and being able to start even at 9.5 V - much better than half charge for usage - but I know what you mean for AGM SOC charts.
Try being on a FLA battery at 11.8 all winter - and no issues starting, in fact no Fordpass alerts about being in Deep Sleep Mode to conserve the battery.
Now my Battery Saver functions were on full tilt - cabin lights off when door opened, off pretty quick on entry too when door closed, including bed light. Power ports off on door open. Well, that's about it for a keyed XLT.

Why it went low? - now you can review all the many posts about hybrid battery issues.

The are undercharged. (Get a jump pack, even with an AGM. Easier to help others anyway.)

Either purposely to save a teeny bit on mileage (ultimately the ICE has to run more to charge the HVB when it's charging the 12VB higher.)
Or my bet - they have some bad logging/sensors out there, and the BMS system thinks it's doing better than reality. (some drivers make it 2-3 years no issues)
Engineers have such fine control over the BMS charging output - they seem to be attempting to imitate an actual charger - except who drives for 4-7 hrs for a float charge to really top it off!
And the battery is in the cabin space - so overcharged not good - because venting could be knocked lose.

 

[Randy C]

Hello Ontario!

I have the same truck as you (received here in Winnipeg on 25 January), and noticed my battery was staying at a very low charge.

I read the manual and on page 359 it describes how to get your Battery Management System to relearn what a fully charged battery is supposed to be charged to. I have posted twice already in this thread about the process and what I did to address this problem.

This post I thought I would explain how I think this low chaging BMS came about, and affects a lot of our beloved Mavericks.

Our trucks are built in a factory, when it is far enough along, a battery is installed and connected...it might even be fully charged at this point, we don't know.

So, along goes the truck as it is finished, tested and parked in a lot out back for an in-determinate period of time (keep in mind the battery is slowly discharging from the time it is connected, and all the little things our trucks electronically do slowly wears the 12 volt battery down).

It is eventually started and loaded onto a truck or a train car...no time for a proper recharge there, I am sure. BMS is learning bad habits all the while.

Truck continues on its merry way, slowly draining the battery further (I am wondering if the people who connect with their truck at this point and are constantly checking to see where it is through their Ford app are accelerating the battery drain process...hmmm, interesting thought...). (All the while, the BMS is slowly learning badly what it thinks a fully charged battery is...but it isn't charged properly).

The truck gets driven on and off trucks and train cars an unknown number of times all while the battery drains further.

Eventually it reaches your dealer and sits there for awhile longer till they prep it for you and give it a quick charge and send you on your way...pretty sure they don't follow page 359 on how to charge it and then let the BMS relearn properly what a full battery is.

So there we have it, one of the problems we have won't be addressed till we carry out the BMS relearn process (have i mentioned page 359 enough times yet? ;-)

As for the plethora of other battery issues, this isn't the fix...for a bad BMS charge level, this may help.

Let's all just try this and see if we remove this particular fixable problem from the equation.

We can then have a better chance to see what the remaining symptoms are, and troubleshooting it from there might be easier.

Have a good day,

Andy

One more time,

Does it really make sense to you that a part in a modern vehicle has to "re-learn what a fully charged 12v battery looks like?"

 

[Deb from MN]

Because many folks have dead battery issues like OP and when tested at the dealership they test as bad and are replaced - that would indicate a quality assurance issue with the batteries - likely going to cheapest/lowest b

 

[gzebrick]

I’ve had my 25 hybrid Larait go into saver mode where the dome lights didn’t come on, but no alarm or alert. Happened after sitting 4 or 5 days. We live where there’s no cell coverage at all. I think the battery drains quicker if the truck keeps trying to ping a cell tower. I know my iPhones dies within a day just trying to connect. I now have a cheap battery tender on the truck so no more issues ( not a bug, a feature!).

 

[SafetyGuy]

Does it really make sense to you that a part in a modern vehicle has to "re-learn what a fully charged 12v battery looks like?"

Good day

There are many, many things that don't make sense to me, so maybe this is just another example.

Not that I don't sit back and have a think or two over them.

So, let's think this one through a bit, for fun. Not that I am right of course...the following is only a thought being put forward!

The world is filled with many, many brands and types of 12 volt batteries of varying charging needs.

Maybe to allow for this, Ford has tried to make their charge system accomodate for this and added a relearning element to their system and included how to update the charge profile in the trucks manual...this is not saying it works perfectly or anything like that of course.

I then think about the 12 volt architecture most of our vehicles and how antiquated it is (think back to when systems only needed a 6 volt electrical system).

Maybe it is time, due to the ever increasing electical requirements of our modern vehicles that they should move to at least a 24 volt electrical system...or maybe a 48 volt system! I am sure electrical engineers can figure it out, I am only putting forward the thought.

So, there you go...more things to think about!

Have a good one,

Andy

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