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2025 Hybrid - Potential Battery Drain?

SafetyGuy

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They tested the battery which read as:

Good - Recharge.
Voltage: 12.24
Measured: 449 CCA
Rated: 540 CCA
Temp: 74 °F.
"Battery is good, but low on charge. Fully charge battery."

It then lists common things to check for low charge.

The issue was very odd to me. Upon opening the door this morning, my usual clicking noises was interrupt near the middle portion, and continuously looped that click over and over, even after shutting the key to the office position.

It kept looping until what I assume was the battery going out, no longer allowing the click process to complete, or even go through it's shut off sequence after exiting, w key out. Felt like a glitch of some sort imo. Especially since it did not stop clicking after turning key to off..
Good evening

There seems to be a lot going on with your battery and I don't have the answer.

However, from reading many of the battery related threads here over time, and from reading over my truck manual, that we can help our trucks charging by trying to get the Battery Management System (BMS) to relearn what a 100% charged battery is supposed to look like....and hopefully then it charges the battery to the appropriate level.

Pg 359 of your E-Manual let's you know how to reset your BMS. (Page added below).

This is what I just did last night (I do it every once in a while):

-I fully charge the battery with a good charger designed for AGM batteries, at least 4 or 5 amps so it has some power to push and recondition my agm battery.

-I Disconnect the battery charger and clean it up,

-The directions then say to close up and lock your truck for at least 8 hours...yep, over night is a great time for that! I make sure everything is closed, windows, tailgate, engine bonnet and especially all the doors - fully closed and then lock it. I also unplug my dashcam so it doesn't come on and drain power during the process.

I also take our keys well away from the truck so we don't accidentally interrupt it's....relearning.... by walking by with our keys in our pockets or accidentally pressing buttons if in my pocket.

Our truck is always parked in our garage when not in use, I am always in and out of the garage so that is why I collect the keys and put them away, so I don't forget.

Again, this isn't the answer for all the issues with peoples batteries etc, just how to try get our trucks to relearn what a 100% charged battery is supposed to look like, and try to keep it there.

Cheers,

Andy

Screenshot_20251006_185359_Samsung Notes.webp
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HeyBales

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Huh - never stood out to me before, but reading those pages since different than the online version - if Ford is using their specific term in there that they don't define elsewhere in manual.
Vehicle sleep time - takes upwards of 75 min for all systems to go to sleep.
So probably not a problem overnight hitting 8 hrs plus 1.25 hours since turn-off/door close/lock.
But I gotta remember to to probably add that in comments now.
Someone could literally think ya - I got 8 hrs, and it not actually be enough.

Great point on keeping keys away, as that would wake up modules on the truck.

ETA - 25MY, that's why.
 

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There is most definitely more to this than simply poor battery quality. I have been to hell and back (no wait I haven't returned yet) with this issue. My 24 hybrid has spent close to 2 months altogether in service. They finally relented and installed an AGM under warranty hoping to resolve this once and for all. It did not help and the undercharging issue persists. They have Ford service engineers investigating, testing, updating and reprogramming and yet they still have no idea what or where the source of this issue is. I have of course accumulated a lengthy paper trail. Along with that and time in service I have decided to file for a buyback.
My intention is to get a new '25 Lariat hybrid but it is a bit distressing to hear this gremlin is still out there. It's a bit of a crapshoot.
 

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Then why do so many of us have no issues at all? If it was a BMS or parasitic drain as the only issue we’d all be experiencing it.

Im sure it’s both but there’s no denying Ford builds everything they can for as cheap as possible regardless of how much they try to sell it for.
Do you use the Ford pass app? Do you use remote features? Have you checked the battery voltage? After about 1.5 years, we get the "remote features disabled" message from the Ford pass app every day no matter how much we drive.. However, the truck has never failed to start. Except for the Ford pass messages, we would probably not realize that the battery is not being fully charged. The battery voltage runs about 11.7v. I think most people have this issue even if they don't realize it.
 

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I recently had the same issue with my 2025 lariat hybrid. It’s sat for seven days while I was away on a cruise came back, I didn’t even get a dome light coming on in the truck. It had less than 3000 km on it.
Took it into the Ford dealership and they basically bullshitted me because they couldn’t give me a definite answer as to why the battery drained. They tested the battery said it was fine. So a few days later I spoke to the manager because I basically told them that they flat out, lied to me and the lie was is that I was told the battery died because it had an update done over night. Well, that turned out to be the lie because there was no update done and the dealership confirmed that. When I return from camping this coming Friday the truck will have sat for six days in my garage. Let’s see if it fails again. My fingers are crossed it fails. Oh the dealership also told me that i should carry a booster pack and that i should be thankful i have roadside assistance with Ford! Can you imagine telling a customer that with a brand new vehicle.

Hello Gang,

Figured Id post a thread indicating my first issues with MY25 Hybrid. Off the bat I assume its the classic battery drain issue posted here many times over.
I thought this was mostly fixed going into the 25 refresh?! (Different AGM Battery?)

Alas, When I went to go to work this morning, I opened the door to no Logos on the illuminated screens (just illuminated backlight in black), and just a constant clicking under the hood. The biggest indicator that something was not right, was that I heard the Old Version of the Ford Doorbell Chime (higher treble frequency ding-a-ling - Annoying), Not the usual calmer/quieter ding-a-ling which I have heard only since purchase. The backlights on the screens and buttons would all illuminate and then go out, in a loop. The truck never attempted to turn over upon full key turn.

This lasted about 5 minutes, until clicking stopped and there is no response when turning the key to any position.
I put it on a battery tender and am calling my dealership, asap.
=================================================

Personal Ranting:

I would think with all of the tech on/in this vehicle, there would be a simple way to warn me about the battery potentially getting low or needing a charge?! I mean the App will alert me when my Washer fluid is low... Why would the system allow me to get into a situation like this without a single warning sent to either the app, or during my previous drive? (Saturday afternoon).

Weird thing is, I brought my truck in the previous week for its first oil change. Now this... :(

I feel like Ford should be supplying a Jump pack free of charge unless they can confirm the issue will not return...

Thank you all for any tips, tricks, advice, and/or info.
 

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HeyBales

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I recently had the same issue with my 2025 lariat hybrid. It’s sat for seven days while I was away on a cruise came back, I didn’t even get a dome light coming on in the truck. It had less than 3000 km on it.
Took it into the Ford dealership and they basically bullshitted me because they couldn’t give me a definite answer as to why the battery drained. They tested the battery said it was fine. So a few days later I spoke to the manager because I basically told them that they flat out, lied to me and the lie was is that I was told the battery died because it had an update done over night. Well, that turned out to be the lie because there was no update done and the dealership confirmed that. When I return from camping this coming Friday the truck will have sat for six days in my garage. Let’s see if it fails again. My fingers are crossed it fails. Oh the dealership also told me that i should carry a booster pack and that i should be thankful i have roadside assistance with Ford! Can you imagine telling a customer that with a brand new vehicle.
So it was drained then?
No start.

Because the battery saver functions would cause lights not to turn on and such after sitting non-driven for awhile and voltage drops.

Did you get the SSM for the intermittent battery drain issue already - an upgrade to the ACCM module?

Now - that may not be the module causing your issue - but Ford seems to think it's a problem one that there is an upgrade. And it'll have to be done first before they investigate more.

Sounds like you'll have to inform them about it - not sure I trust them doing it right - very specific instructions for them when doing it, not like normal software updates they do.

Each of these drains does take a toll on the battery - I'm assuming they charged it, then tested the next day.

Jump pack is a good idea - haven't used it on mine yet, but prevents hooking up truck to assist others, where it has been used several times.
 

SafetyGuy

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Do you use the Ford pass app? Do you use remote features? Have you checked the battery voltage? After about 1.5 years, we get the "remote features disabled" message from the Ford pass app every day no matter how much we drive.. However, the truck has never failed to start. Except for the Ford pass messages, we would probably not realize that the battery is not being fully charged. The battery voltage runs about 11.7v. I think most people have this issue even if they don't realize it.
Good day BillS

I hope you read my previous post about the Mav manual explaining how to get your BMS to relearn what a properly charged battery looks like.

-Have an appropriate charger (at least 4-5 amp), and I have the factory AGM battery.

-Charge your truck battery as per page 359 of the manual... I use the charge point under the hood and the ground provided. Charge it all day (or a couple of days), if possible, to let the smart charger recondition your battery. Manual says not to connect the charger to the negative battery post if I remember correctly...page 359.

-Disconnect your charger and close up the truck completely and unplug any extra electronic devices you may have (in my case it is a dash cam). Doors, tailgate, engine bonnet...everything fully closed!

-Lock your truck, I double lock mine, and put your truck keys far away as you can in the house so you dont accidentally wake the truck up by walking by it with keys in your pocket,

-leave your truck in this state overnight (I believe Heybales said 8 hours plus another 1.5 hrs for everything to shut down), so say 10 hours.

If your BMS is charging inadequately, this may help correct it and doesn't cost anything to try...I like that!

If your battery has been at a low charge state for a long time, it may need load testing, just to see if it is still serviceable...winter is coming...

Have a nice day, and I hope this helps you out,

Andy
 

SafetyGuy

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I recently had the same issue with my 2025 lariat hybrid. It’s sat for seven days while I was away on a cruise came back, I didn’t even get a dome light coming on in the truck. It had less than 3000 km on it.
Took it into the Ford dealership and they basically bullshitted me because they couldn’t give me a definite answer as to why the battery drained. They tested the battery said it was fine. So a few days later I spoke to the manager because I basically told them that they flat out, lied to me and the lie was is that I was told the battery died because it had an update done over night. Well, that turned out to be the lie because there was no update done and the dealership confirmed that. When I return from camping this coming Friday the truck will have sat for six days in my garage. Let’s see if it fails again. My fingers are crossed it fails. Oh the dealership also told me that i should carry a booster pack and that i should be thankful i have roadside assistance with Ford! Can you imagine telling a customer that with a brand new vehicle.
Hello Ontario!

I have the same truck as you (received here in Winnipeg on 25 January), and noticed my battery was staying at a very low charge.

I read the manual and on page 359 it describes how to get your Battery Management System to relearn what a fully charged battery is supposed to be charged to. I have posted twice already in this thread about the process and what I did to address this problem.

This post I thought I would explain how I think this low chaging BMS came about, and affects a lot of our beloved Mavericks.

Our trucks are built in a factory, when it is far enough along, a battery is installed and connected...it might even be fully charged at this point, we don't know.

So, along goes the truck as it is finished, tested and parked in a lot out back for an in-determinate period of time (keep in mind the battery is slowly discharging from the time it is connected, and all the little things our trucks electronically do slowly wears the 12 volt battery down).

It is eventually started and loaded onto a truck or a train car...no time for a proper recharge there, I am sure. BMS is learning bad habits all the while.

Truck continues on its merry way, slowly draining the battery further (I am wondering if the people who connect with their truck at this point and are constantly checking to see where it is through their Ford app are accelerating the battery drain process...hmmm, interesting thought...). (All the while, the BMS is slowly learning badly what it thinks a fully charged battery is...but it isn't charged properly).

The truck gets driven on and off trucks and train cars an unknown number of times all while the battery drains further.

Eventually it reaches your dealer and sits there for awhile longer till they prep it for you and give it a quick charge and send you on your way...pretty sure they don't follow page 359 on how to charge it and then let the BMS relearn properly what a full battery is.

So there we have it, one of the problems we have won't be addressed till we carry out the BMS relearn process (have i mentioned page 359 enough times yet? ;-)

As for the plethora of other battery issues, this isn't the fix...for a bad BMS charge level, this may help.

Let's all just try this and see if we remove this particular fixable problem from the equation.

We can then have a better chance to see what the remaining symptoms are, and troubleshooting it from there might be easier.

Have a good day,

Andy

One more time,

Screenshot_20251006_185359_Samsung Notes.webp
 

HeyBales

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2 systems are activated by the dealer at some point after the truck arrives, that start pulling on that 12V battery when off - alarm & fob receiver. (it also enables the OLM, and other trackers, like the figures the BMS Relearn provides, but never heard of ability to connect with truck then, as truck starts the connection process). So the manufacturer time until dealer delivery is just a battery degrading as it would sitting on shelf - except for short drive times.

So indeed, a good charge and relearn should be done.
And I've done it multiple times on prior battery.
And most recently on brand new battery.

And you can daily watch the BMS system update it's figures for tracking the Ah charging and discharging that is occurring - and despite it thinking it's keeping things even, even slightly charged more - the daily voltage is going down.

It's a bad algorithm, and bad readings, therefore bad strategy.
Even if it thought it was keeping things even thru the tracking - the degrading morning voltage should give a clue it's not actually - and it needs to charge higher whenever it is.

I'm just past 70 days on new battery. Or rather no where near new according to measurements!
The system is already down to it's normal dumb routine of decent amp charge for maybe 3 min, by 10 min it's down to 1 or below amps, since it can only show whole numbers, it's probably a trickle charge half amp.
When dealer tech says drive it more - they must mean across the country non-stop for a trickle charge to do any good. (they actually have no idea, they are thinking alternator)

It's relearning frequently too - you can tell when the night before must have been one, seems to be on a timer for redoing it, because the Sleep mode mA's will read high for that night - in the 80 mA avg, instead of like what I got last night, 23 mA.
I've never dated those measurements to see what the cycle time seems to be.

I'm not wasting my timing for another warranty battery replacement by charging it up - already did that last year after 4 months from prior recharge. It did no good.

So indeed, the BMS Relearn should be done after a full charge up to set the basis.
But it's not going to solve the problem of bad readings and charging strategy.
 
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Packer Bill

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I have a question for the battery experts here. I checked my 25 Maverick with ForScan and the charging level is only set at 80%. So how does the BMS keep your battery at 100% charged after charging your battery to 100%?
 
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bcoo4

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Hello Ontario!

I have the same truck as you (received here in Winnipeg on 25 January), and noticed my battery was staying at a very low charge.

I read the manual and on page 359 it describes how to get your Battery Management System to relearn what a fully charged battery is supposed to be charged to. I have posted twice already in this thread about the process and what I did to address this problem.

This post I thought I would explain how I think this low chaging BMS came about, and affects a lot of our beloved Mavericks.

Our trucks are built in a factory, when it is far enough along, a battery is installed and connected...it might even be fully charged at this point, we don't know.

So, along goes the truck as it is finished, tested and parked in a lot out back for an in-determinate period of time (keep in mind the battery is slowly discharging from the time it is connected, and all the little things our trucks electronically do slowly wears the 12 volt battery down).

It is eventually started and loaded onto a truck or a train car...no time for a proper recharge there, I am sure. BMS is learning bad habits all the while.

Truck continues on its merry way, slowly draining the battery further (I am wondering if the people who connect with their truck at this point and are constantly checking to see where it is through their Ford app are accelerating the battery drain process...hmmm, interesting thought...). (All the while, the BMS is slowly learning badly what it thinks a fully charged battery is...but it isn't charged properly).

The truck gets driven on and off trucks and train cars an unknown number of times all while the battery drains further.

Eventually it reaches your dealer and sits there for awhile longer till they prep it for you and give it a quick charge and send you on your way...pretty sure they don't follow page 359 on how to charge it and then let the BMS relearn properly what a full battery is.

So there we have it, one of the problems we have won't be addressed till we carry out the BMS relearn process (have i mentioned page 359 enough times yet? ;-)

As for the plethora of other battery issues, this isn't the fix...for a bad BMS charge level, this may help.

Let's all just try this and see if we remove this particular fixable problem from the equation.

We can then have a better chance to see what the remaining symptoms are, and troubleshooting it from there might be easier.

Have a good day,

Andy

One more time,

Screenshot_20251006_185359_Samsung Notes.webp
Thanks Andy, I appreciate you mentioning this. When I came across it myself initially after the issue, I thought, hmm I do not recall this info in my initial reading of the manual.

I also had re-read this portion in the manual now a few times over and will have it fully locked up until tomorrow morning. Had it sitting on charger/maintainer overnight and for a few hours at maintain level, before disconnecting and locking all locks.

Before coming home from the dealership I went for a "spirited cruise" in both sport & normal modes for about an hour, hoping to just run the engine a bit more and allow the truck to spit any codes potentially remaining.

I suppose I will return to my normal driving for now, and see how it goes. moving forward. Let me know if you have any other recommendations! with the BMS, stuff.
 
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Thank You All for the great info and experiences. Let me know if there is anymore info I can provide!

I will have completed the BMS steps by tomorrow morning. I will then continue driving as normal, and see how it goes. Any further issues and I will be sure to update and or make a new post.

One more question: Since this is my first dealership/warranty vehicle...
Should I be emailing this experience to my "salesman" who I dealed with, for the best support? or Generally, just speaking with the service department?

Anything more I should be doing other than that? It still leaves a sour taste in my mouth, that my 7 month old, 6,400 mile vehicle would/could leave me stranded in this fashion.
 

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Berk, I would highly recommend you consider filing for a buyback under your state's lemon law if you have or will soon meet the required standards. It sounds like you may have to take it in several more times for the same complaint but you're well under a year of ownership so that's good.
 

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Hello Gang,

Figured Id post a thread indicating my first issues with MY25 Hybrid. Off the bat I assume its the classic battery drain issue posted here many times over.
I thought this was mostly fixed going into the 25 refresh?! (Different AGM Battery?)

Alas, When I went to go to work this morning, I opened the door to no Logos on the illuminated screens (just illuminated backlight in black), and just a constant clicking under the hood. The biggest indicator that something was not right, was that I heard the Old Version of the Ford Doorbell Chime (higher treble frequency ding-a-ling - Annoying), Not the usual calmer/quieter ding-a-ling which I have heard only since purchase. The backlights on the screens and buttons would all illuminate and then go out, in a loop. The truck never attempted to turn over upon full key turn.

This lasted about 5 minutes, until clicking stopped and there is no response when turning the key to any position.
I put it on a battery tender and am calling my dealership, asap.
=================================================

Personal Ranting:

I would think with all of the tech on/in this vehicle, there would be a simple way to warn me about the battery potentially getting low or needing a charge?! I mean the App will alert me when my Washer fluid is low... Why would the system allow me to get into a situation like this without a single warning sent to either the app, or during my previous drive? (Saturday afternoon).

Weird thing is, I brought my truck in the previous week for its first oil change. Now this... :(

I feel like Ford should be supplying a Jump pack free of charge unless they can confirm the issue will not return...

Thank you all for any tips, tricks, advice, and/or info.
After having owned a Ford Fusion hybrid and hearing of all the problems of the Maverick hybrid, I used my Ford pass points to buy a jump pack for my '25. While my 3-day old truck was being repaired at the ford dealer for 4 months, my battery did go dead and I did get a notification.

Screenshot_20251007_231224_FordPass.webp
 

HeyBales

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I have a question for the battery experts here. I checked my 25 Maverick with ForScan and the charging level is only set at 80%. So how does the BMS keep your battery at 100% charged after charging your battery to 100%?
85% SOC for the BMS is 100% charged actually. I've seen the posts from the beginning discovering that tidbit. Confirmed on my replacement battery.

That is probably the point it's supposed to go to trickle charge, but that's not what happens anyway on the hybrids. Perhaps it works properly on the EB's.

Look at all the other battery related values that are available PID's also in screen shot below - I'm betting it's not used just as the others aren't on the hybrid.
Just like there are orphan PID's regarding all kinds of things this truck doesn't have - they are probably left over.

Though - the 25 manual does appear to say there are some values that must be changed with a different battery spec on either the hybrid or the EB. Same footnotes made.
It would be interesting which of these PID's has a value now.

Replacing the Battery
Note: Before reconnecting the battery, make sure the ignition remains switched off.
You must replace the battery with one of exactly the same specification.

MOTORCRAFT PARTS - 2.5L, HYBRID ELECTRIC VEHICLE (HEV)


ComponentMotorcraft Part Number
Air filter element.​
FA-1948
Oil filter. 3​
FL-910-S
Battery. 1
See note below. 2
Spark plug.​
SP-530-X
Cabin air filter.​
FP-131
Windshield wiper blade.​
WW-2249 (driver side) WW-2054 (passenger side)
1 Configure your vehicle’s battery management system to match the replacement battery. Failure to use an appropriate configuration for your battery management system could result in shortened battery life, features not working correctly, or your vehicle not starting. Consult your local dealer or service provider for further details.
2 See your dealer for the most current part number.

3 If a Motorcraft oil filter is not available, use an oil filter that aligns to SAE/USCAR – 36 Performance Specifications. Filter Type B.

Screenshot_2024-12-12-17-53-21.webp
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