Custom built truck bed cap for my Maverick

[Transplant]

I don't think the Flated looks too shabby on the color combo on mine

I think the Flated tents are great for what they are, but they're not for me for many reasons. But absolutely no shade thrown at the company or those that like they're flated toppers, I'm happy there's plenty of options out there for every different owner and every different use. I'll take my super cheap MacGyvered topper over most commercially available options just based on cost alone.

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[MakinDoForNow]

I only camp because it gets me closer to fishing spots, and I don't sleep well in a tent because I always think I'm going to get attacked in my sleep by venomous raccoons or something (we don't really have any animals to worry about on the east coast but that doesn't stop me from sleeping poorly). So the cap should make for better trips and was worth the effort for me.

Including the time involved in learning how to fiberglass (I still have very little clue) I probably have 30 hours into it so far, lots of fiddling trying to get the shape right. It was a fun project to mess with over the winter.

Get a "build a strip canoe" book. Practice on one then a camper shell will be a breeze! You can have a CUSTOM PAIR!

 

[Charles T.]

A lot easier to buy one

 

[Transplant]

A lot easier to buy one

It's nearly $5000 for the Leer Truck Cap for the Maverick here in Canada. When I do the math on my hourly wage to pay for that cap vs the time I have into my DIY cap I would suggest it's actually considerably easier to build than to buy.

That doesn't even consider the fact that projects like this are fun for me and keep me out of trouble all winter.

 

[JennyJoannSuebeeMcNash]

I applaud the creativity!

HRG

I second this!

 

[Darklyter]

Noice!!!!

 

[Iron Ranger]

I was way too cheap in the 80's and used the topper off my 68 dodge for a garage for my Norton Commando

We say toppers up here

 

[Big Swede]

She’s got a good personality.

 

[Transplant]

Get a "build a strip canoe" book. Practice on one then a camper shell will be a breeze! You can have a CUSTOM PAIR!

The worst part is, when we have composite issues at work, I'm the Engineer they call. I know how to do all of this stuff, I just need to spend some time actually doing it. Maybe a canoe wouldn't be a bad idea actually...

 

[MakinDoForNow]

The worst part is, when we have composite issues at work, I'm the Engineer they call. I know how to do all of this stuff, I just need to spend some time actually doing it. Maybe a canoe wouldn't be a bad idea actually...

Canoe itself is straight forward and repetitive. Need to sell 2 to pay for 1 but if they are good will bring $4-$10k each. If you want full length strips and can find 6-7 1x6x18' grade A Select clear vertical grain for $200 each you can do it. Probably wind up scarf joining 4'-8' strips. Need about 40-60 clamps each of 3 styles/sizes. Cramped workspace = 10x20'. Maverick shell would sure be pretty only need 6' boards. Need band saw to rip strips as that will save 25-30% lumber than if you ripped with table saw. Cheapest lumber to build Maverick shell would be hollow core slab bifold (about 1 1/4" thick) doors sourcing rejects ($4-$6 each).

 

[wax87]

I am way too cheap to buy a brand new truck cap, I'm also not a big fan of the canvas soft caps and Flated toppers. But I wanted a cap to put on the truck to use as a better option than a tent for sleeping on camping trips. The best option for me was a free truck cap I got off Marketplace, described as an S10 stepside cap, but more likely this was a Leer Ford Ranger Stepside Cap, modified to fit the Maverick.

The cap has a wide section from the cab back about a foot, into a narrow section for most of the bed length. This worked perfect as the width of the cap in the narrow section perfectly matches the Maverick bed width. And the length of the narrow section of the cap was also pretty much spot on to fit the length of the bed once trimmed. Also a bonus, the sliding side windows are just barely the right length to fit back in the cap after trimming, so they can be re-used.

For the process of fitting this cap, I started by removing the side windows and cutting the wide front section off the cap. I stabilized everything with some scrap lumber, then set to work with tape and a tape measure to figure out how I would trim the cap and replace the front wall so it all blends with the shape of the cab. I eventually decided on a flat front wall with an integrated wind deflector as the easiest method I could come up with to make it all fit well. Once the fiberglass was all trimmed to best fit, I traced the front section onto a sheet of 1/2" plywood and screwed and bonded that in place as the front wall. I then added more plywood to form the wind deflector, and I cut out window opening. I filled in the gaps between the front wall and the old side window holes using scraps of fiberglass cut from the cap, these were bonded to the cap with epoxy and later trimmed out again to re-fit the windows. After some test fitments I also added a 1/4 round on the bottom of the front wall to help with eventually sealing the front of the cap.

The back hatch was missing on my free cap so I had to build one of those too, that is just a sheet of 1/2" plywood with a window opening cut into it. It will get standard stainless hinges, a couple cheap locking truck cap latches, and I have a roll of bulb seal that will fit to the cap itself and hopefully seal the back enough to keep water and bugs out. I have a couple left supports to install once I can confirm they're the correct strength for holding the hatch up without being too stiff.

The front wall got a few layers of fiberglass to seal everything from the elements and to stiffen the front wall. That fiberglass overlaps the cap and the area where I bonded some additional fiberglass into the old window openings. The window openings had to be re-cut back farther in the cap, luckily the windows fit perfectly (just barely) at the new cap length. With the fiberglass cured and the windows cut out I sealed everything with seam sealer, primed, and painted with truck bed coating. This was an error, I thought the truck bed coating would be better at hiding the admittedly rough fiberglass work and seam sealer, it did not. That is all going to get removed at some point and re-done with a lot more focus on a clean finish. Also, Dupli-Colour spray on Truck Bed Coating is awful stuff, there's no good reason for this stuff to be on store shelves and I'm kicking myself for not doing a roll on product.

But with everything primed and coated I could move forward with the front and back windows, they are 1/8" plexi and will eventually be replaced with something better considering I cracked both of them already on install. For now they were both fit in and sealed with sealant, and held in place with 1x3 lumber that I notched on the table saw to fit over the sheets of plexi and hold it all in place. The 1x3s also add more stiffness to the plywood.

The cap was test fit successfully on the truck and looks great from 20 feet away. Once I fix that horrible seam between the new fiberglass front section and the cap it'll hopefully be a 5 footer, I'm not looking for perfect. I'm still on the hunt for an OEM Leer back window eventually to replace the plywood hatch, and I will fix that terrible seam and the coating in the near future (but not before I need the cap). The plan is to use this for camping, so I'm starting on an easily removable bed set-up and storage space in the back of the truck to use on fishing trips. I have a roof basket to go on the top for some extra storage space as well, that'll also come after I complete a successful first test run. I want to get a trip under my belt and confirm that everything is well sealed and functional before I re-finish the seam and truck bed coating that way I'm not rebuilding things twice.

As for costs into the cap, I got a lot of materials (including the cap) for free, and I salvaged a bunch of stuff from other projects to keep costs down. I'm into the entire thing for just over $100 (mostly seals and paint), If I paid for all my supplies and the plexi windows and such the total cost would be just over $200 or so. So I'm super happy with the extremely budget build and how it's turned out so far and I'm looking forward to having a comfortable spot to sleep on the next fishing trip.

thanks a lot, now I have ANOTHER project to accomplish for my Mav LOL
Great job, thanks for the write up and going after this project.

 

[Merrick]

Nice freebie! I bought the Flated 3 years ago,works for my needs,weighs 22 lbs.Can remove and store pretty much anywhere.reinstalls in 7-8 minutes including inflation.I have no way to lug around a heavy topper,I'm old.

I love my Air-Topper by @flated, now if they could only solve my problem of enclosing the portion open with an open tailgate I would be able to truck camp more comfortably.

 

[tlhmav]

I just used an Amazon cheap tailgate tent,think it was like 25 bucks.Had to install 3/4 " PVC and pool noodles to support where SUV hatch normally holds up roof area.I also have the Napar SUV tent which is nice For staying on same site for several days.

 

[Spatty]

I love my Air-Topper by @flated, now if they could only solve my problem of enclosing the portion open with an open tailgate I would be able to truck camp more comfortably.

@flated claims they will have the extension out this fall or towards the end of the year.

 

[Gray Goose]

The topper might be from an F-150 stepside. I know the Sport Trac tailgate was the same as the F-150 stepside. The Sport Trac is approximately the same width as the Maverick.
Nice re-use adaptation.

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