Is there a way to coax the Maverick into EV mode?

[ClemsonU88]

No, there are NO TRICKS. It's a computer program. You will not defy physics. Hypermiling is the same in a fully gas car, GAS Hybrid (Maverick) or fully electric.

Your job is to minimize the production of brake dust, that's it. Let the car do the rest.

I have to respectfully disagree with you. There ARE "tricks" to help you get better mileage. Most have been listed.

If I do nothing but drive gently, I get about 38 mpg. When I use some of the tricks listed here, I get around 44 mpg. The biggest thing for me is pulse driving and accelerating past your desired speed as DLDJTAD said.

Similarly, when it's in Hybrid giving it a little gas & backing off while on a flat surface or slight decline usually pushes it to EV when it may have stayed in Hybrid without the pulse.

Finally, (as you hinted at) coasting to red lights gets you into EV & charging more than just driving to the light normally and having to brake.

Are they "tricks" or simply gentle driving habits? A rose by any other name is still a rose.

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[tom_tucker]

I totally get that. I'm still trying to fully understand they system. Short of being easy on the gas and brake, I was hoping there were other little things I can do. Apparently not, and that's fine. The truck is amazing. I don't expect to ever duplicate my trip, but it was VERY cool to see.

Your return trip will be 20 mpg, it all evens out. Just minimize burying the needle (brake dust) and track your avg mpg over months and years. All that matters is long term fuel consumption.

I just got back from a 1000 mile road trip at 33 mpg. My local trips going 2-3 miles at 50 mpg are not saving much.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Bob,

Thanks. That's basically what I figured. The timing is odd because it mostly happens accelerating away from lights. (Why does the battery deplete right at that moment?)
Having the battery level would be wonderful and really help to understand.
If there's nothing that can be done, that's fine. I was just hoping.
Thanks again.

Dana

When accelerating away from lights use up to 40% power and let off gas then hold power usage in green or below 10% to stay in electric as long as possible. If you use over 10% power ice will come on so since you are burning gas anyway go ahead and use 30% or so. Then asap let off gas can get back below 20%. If you desire to observe switching between gas and electric select instantaneous mpg display and at times display will bounce back and forth instantaneously. I assume when this happens ice may be running to charge battery and the electric motor is pulsing to add torque if needed. To observe how pulsing up to 30-40% is not necessarily bad get on a 40-45 mph windy, hilly road and put cruise control on (normal, econ, or slippery mode). If you brake just hit resume and watch power gage usage. It can use 30-40% for a couple seconds and drop to electric. I can drive this way and get well over 50 mpg. This method appears to work best in slippery with cruise on at least some of time probably depending on HVB soc.
Have fun.

 

[DanaL]

When accelerating away from lights use up to 40% power and let off gas then hold power usage in green or below 10% to stay in electric as long as possible. If you use over 10% power ice will come on so since you are burning gas anyway go ahead and use 30% or so. Then asap let off gas can get back below 20%. If you desire to observe switching between gas and electric select instantaneous mpg display and at times display will bounce back and forth instantaneously. I assume when this happens ice may be running to charge battery and the electric motor is pulsing to add torque if needed. To observe how pulsing up to 30-40% is not necessarily bad get on a 40-45 mph windy, hilly road and put cruise control on (normal, econ, or slippery mode). If you brake just hit resume and watch power gage usage. It can use 30-40% for a couple seconds and drop to electric. I can drive this way and get well over 50 mpg. This method appears to work best in slippery with cruise on at least some of time probably depending on HVB soc.
Have fun.

I'm trying to play with what you said. One of my issues may be I'm doing short trips with the temperature in the 50s. I think the electric switches aren't going to start in full force until I've got two bars on the temperature gauge.
I do have a question about coasting. I read somewhere that going downhill, even though the engine is running, it is not using any fuel. Is that the case for all coasting? I am old school and all this new technology is very confusing.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I'm trying to play with what you said. One of my issues may be I'm doing short trips with the temperature in the 50s. I think the electric switches aren't going to start in full force until I've got two bars on the temperature gauge.
I do have a question about coasting. I read somewhere that going downhill, even though the engine is running, it is not using any fuel. Is that the case for all coasting? I am old school and all this new technology is very confusing.

When coolant temp is below something like 180° or 190° ice will start to heat coolant. If HVB temp is too cool charge/discharge rate will be reduced. If ice is running the planetary will select direct ice to wheels saving conversion/storage losses. When HVB gets warm enough (it likes 72°) charge/discharge can start at least for assist if needed. So basically at least close to 2 bars will be where ice can stop running if HVB is warm enough.
Ice running while coasting whether down hill or on flat or on up hill rpm can be variable depending on planetary gear set from 0-5400(exact ?) depending on how much engine brake is desired. Ice rpm will be at electrical and ice braking can both occur at any time if either one needs help.

 

[gchu]

Assuming the engine and outside temps are in the right spot, I found that I can get it into EV mode by lifting off the gas and easing it back down while keeping it below the first tick mark.

I make a regular 26 mile drive since I've owned the truck.

During the summer, I can get 55% of the miles to work in electric and almost 70% in EV on my drive home. It's lower in the morning guessing due to the cold start.

In the fall/winter it drops a lot - about 35% and 45% respectively. The difference between the morning and evening I feel is that the engine cools off while I'm in EV mode to the point where it starts up to get to operating temperatures again.

On the highway/turnpike, it rarely gets into EV mode - which is why I drive my 6th gen Camaro or C8 Corvette since they can both get about 28+ mpg on the highway and are a lot more fun to drive LOL

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Assuming the engine and outside temps are in the right spot, I found that I can get it into EV mode by lifting off the gas and easing it back down while keeping it below the first tick mark.

I make a regular 26 mile drive since I've owned the truck.

During the summer, I can get 55% of the miles to work in electric and almost 70% in EV on my drive home. It's lower in the morning guessing due to the cold start.

In the fall/winter it drops a lot - about 35% and 45% respectively. The difference between the morning and evening I feel is that the engine cools off while I'm in EV mode to the point where it starts up to get to operating temperatures again.

On the highway/turnpike, it rarely gets into EV mode - which is why I drive my 6th gen Camaro or C8 Corvette since they can both get about 28+ mpg on the highway and are a lot more fun to drive LOL

Depending on wind etc eV mode ceases about 63 mph.

 

[HeyBales]

I'm trying to play with what you said. One of my issues may be I'm doing short trips with the temperature in the 50s. I think the electric switches aren't going to start in full force until I've got two bars on the temperature gauge.
I do have a question about coasting. I read somewhere that going downhill, even though the engine is running, it is not using any fuel. Is that the case for all coasting? I am old school and all this new technology is very confusing.

Not the case for all coasting. Find my post above.

If ICE is on because SOC% reached 30%, doesn't matter down, flat, up - ICE is on until 40% is reached.
Thru ICE, or coasting regen, or braking regen (last 2 are the same thing actually). Once 40% is reached ICE can go off.

If that's the case it's very unlikely to be enabled for extra coasting braking, as you obviously aren't at 70% SOC yet, when it would be brought on to waste energy.

 

[DanaL]

When coolant temp is below something like 180° or 190° ice will start to heat coolant. If HVB temp is too cool charge/discharge rate will be reduced. If ice is running the planetary will select direct ice to wheels saving conversion/storage losses. When HVB gets warm enough (it likes 72°) charge/discharge can start at least for assist if needed. So basically at least close to 2 bars will be where ice can stop running if HVB is warm enough.
Ice running while coasting whether down hill or on flat or on up hill rpm can be variable depending on planetary gear set from 0-5400(exact ?) depending on how much engine brake is desired. Ice rpm will be at electrical and ice braking can both occur at any time if either one needs help.

Ultimately, I'm just not getting it. The only thing that I've noticed that does anything, is keeping the power meter below the first bar. That fails at a point, I'm sure because the battery has drained. The EV coach seems useless to me. I have seen the battery area large before I push the accelerator. It goes hybrid, but stays there after I let off. At that point, there should be enough battery to drop back into electric. The truck works fine and does well. I believe there is nothing I can do to coax it as I asked. It will do what it does, when it does. I so appreciate all the advice that has been given, but none of it is registering with me. That's beyond frustrating to me, but as I said, the truck works very well and I will just let it do it's thing and enjoy it.

 

[The Real Maverick]

Ultimately, I'm just not getting it. The only thing that I've noticed that does anything, is keeping the power meter below the first bar. That fails at a point, I'm sure because the battery has drained. The EV coach seems useless to me. I have seen the battery area large before I push the accelerator. It goes hybrid, but stays there after I let off. At that point, there should be enough battery to drop back into electric. The truck works fine and does well. I believe there is nothing I can do to coax it as I asked. It will do what it does, when it does. I so appreciate all the advice that has been given, but none of it is registering with me. That's beyond frustrating to me, but as I said, the truck works very well and I will just let it do it's thing and enjoy it.

All the nerds agree- the EV coach is your best built-in tool. I agree.

Second, plug a device into the OBDII data port above your left knee.
This will give you tons of information, and #1 best is battery charge level.

In an airport will you play games on your phone when your battery is 89% full? How about 10% full?

Same for your truck. The human driver can change behavior knowing just a little more data.

There are many tricks to maximize EV use and boost MPG.

With these tricks I've gone over 800 miles on a tank twice, and more than 700 miles per tank almost always.

 

[DanaL]

All the nerds agree- the EV coach is your best built-in tool. I agree.

Second, plug a device into the OBDII data port above your left knee.
This will give you tons of information, and #1 best is battery charge level.

In an airport will you play games on your phone when your battery is 89% full? How about 10% full?

Same for your truck. The human driver can change behavior knowing just a little more data.

There are many tricks to maximize EV use and boost MPG.

With these tricks I've gone over 800 miles on a tank twice, and more than 700 miles per tank almost always.

Can you please share what you do?
I see the box get low. At that point, it will go to ICE. I have no choice, nor do I have a choice how to stop it from getting to that point without using the ICE.
I am obviously missing everything.
Everyone has explained how the system works, which is great, but I still have no idea how to do anything efficient with it.

 

[Prickly Pear]

Can you please share what you do?
I see the box get low. At that point, it will go to ICE. I have no choice, nor do I have a choice how to stop it from getting to that point without using the ICE.
I am obviously missing everything.
Everyone has explained how the system works, which is great, but I still have no idea how to do anything efficient with it.

Did you read through the thread I linked in my previous post? The 2 sort of "tricks" ( really areas of focus to maximize MPG) seem to be 1, minimizing the need for the ICE to run, and 2, maximizing charging when it does have to run.
You get #1 by not running the heater, and having a light foot on the throttle. You get #2 by using an OBDII device like @The Real Maverick said, so you can use the HV battery state of charge to help inform your driving (like the linked post discusses). When you start out from a dead stop and the battery is low, give it some gas to get up to speed and charge the HV. If the battery is full and the conditions are OK for EV operation (no one behind you and flat or down hill), take it easy and let the electric motor run.

 

[DanaL]

Did you read through the thread I linked in my previous post? The 2 sort of "tricks" ( really areas of focus to maximize MPG) seem to be 1, minimizing the need for the ICE to run, and 2, maximizing charging when it does have to run.
You get #1 by not running the heater, and having a light foot on the throttle. You get #2 by using an OBDII device like @The Real Maverick said, so you can use the HV battery state of charge to help inform your driving (like the linked post discusses). When you start out from a dead stop and the battery is low, give it some gas to get up to speed and charge the HV. If the battery is full and the conditions are OK for EV operation (no one behind you and flat or down hill), take it easy and let the electric motor run.

When I am alone I never use the heater and try to have a very light touch on the throttle. I will have to investigate the ODBII devices. There are many screens in the car that divert my attention from driving, so I'm trying hard to ignore them. The thought of something else grabbing my attention is scary. I will watch some videos. I like your "maximizing charging when it does have to run". That is what I need to figure out. Thank you.

 

[DanaL]

Did you read through the thread I linked in my previous post? The 2 sort of "tricks" ( really areas of focus to maximize MPG) seem to be 1, minimizing the need for the ICE to run, and 2, maximizing charging when it does have to run.
You get #1 by not running the heater, and having a light foot on the throttle. You get #2 by using an OBDII device like @The Real Maverick said, so you can use the HV battery state of charge to help inform your driving (like the linked post discusses). When you start out from a dead stop and the battery is low, give it some gas to get up to speed and charge the HV. If the battery is full and the conditions are OK for EV operation (no one behind you and flat or down hill), take it easy and let the electric motor run.

BTW, I did read that post. That's when I started using the EV Coach. As I said in my first post today, I don't understand how that screen helps anything. I have tried dropping into charge then lightly pressing the throttle. That does nothing. It goes right back to Hybrid. I will look into the OBDII device, but I truly fear that without having someone with me to physically show me what I'm doing wrong, I will never get it. If I don't, the truck is wonderful as it is. I'm just frustrated right now.

 

[Prickly Pear]

BTW, I did read that post. That's when I started using the EV Coach. As I said in my first post today, I don't understand how that screen helps anything. I have tried dropping into charge then lightly pressing the throttle. That does nothing. It goes right back to Hybrid. I will look into the OBDII device, but I truly fear that without having someone with me to physically show me what I'm doing wrong, I will never get it. If I don't, the truck is wonderful as it is. I'm just frustrated right now.

You are using Eco mode, right? That makes it easiest for me to get into EV mode.

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