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Suggestions to fix a chip in the paint

Ravinus

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I did my first wash today of my 25 XLT and found where a rock had hit my car. It’s pretty deep and I don’t want any rust. I would also like to avoid the body shop. Any suggestions for a quick and easy remedy?

Ford Maverick Suggestions to fix a chip in the paint IMG_5655
Ford Maverick Suggestions to fix a chip in the paint IMG_5654
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OleFordGuy

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ouch that's nasty. probably take numerous layers of touch up paint to fill that in looks like. I'm no body/paint kinda guy..... DIY job you'll probably always be able to see if but at least the rust concern would be reduced. I wonder if the edges of the factory paint might chip off some in future? Hopefully someone with some real experience can chime in. Good Luck
 

Toddman45

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I've had the touch up about three total on both sides combined in that same spot on the a pillar. $17 bottle of touch up paint from your local Ford dealer does the trick. If you're good like me you can't even tell it happened when you're done.
 

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Might give - https://drcolorchip.com/ a try.

When I looked up 2025 Maverick colors, they are showing the 2024 color list. Might need to call.

Having said that, it is a deeeep chip so I might hit up a shop and see what they would charge.
 

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I did my first wash today of my 25 XLT and found where a rock had hit my car. It’s pretty deep and I don’t want any rust. I would also like to avoid the body shop. Any suggestions for a quick and easy remedy?

IMG_5655.webp
IMG_5654.jpeg
I used the Ford color match paint pen to address two rock chips on my Maverick. The pen has two ends, one end has what I call a 'scratcher' and the other side has the paint with a small brush. The thing looks like a an anti-tank weapon.

I used the scratcher end to chip away the detached paint. I worked my way out from the center in very short strokes so as not to damage any good paint. My goal was to change the nature of the chip from being crater like to having straight side, more or less. I then cleaned the area to remove any ceramic coat.

Once that was done, I heated the area with a hair dryer to warm it so the paint would flow better. Then I shook the heck out of the pen and used the brush to apply a tiny bit of paint and build up the layers of wet paint. I wore a magnifying visor so my old eyes could see better.

I would suggest practicing this on something other than your truck to gain familiarity with the brush and viscosity of the paint.

I then used a Glide Floss Pick to very carefully take the excess paint off (there is invariably a bump and the pick helped me to level the new paint to the old paint without sanding). The pick has an extremely flexible 'pick' end that is shaped like a curved blade. I used the inside edge of it so as to not remove too much paint. It took a few applications of the paint to get a feel for it and get it right. Make very small strokes and lift off, clean paint from the pick and go again.

I used a lint free cloth to remove any tiny paint smears that made it onto the original paint.

The repairs look good, I know where they are but I can't see them until I get really close.

The repair is in the highlighted circle of the included photos. I used a shadow line so I could find the repair in the photo too highlight it.

Ford Maverick Suggestions to fix a chip in the paint 1740888959974-j6



Ford Maverick Suggestions to fix a chip in the paint 1740888654103-xs



Ford Maverick Suggestions to fix a chip in the paint 1740888721897-rh
 

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Ravinus

Ravinus

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I used the Ford color match paint pen to address two rock chips on my Maverick. The pen has two ends, one end has what I call a 'scratcher' and the other side has the paint with a small brush. The thing looks like a an anti-tank weapon.

I used the scratcher end to chip away the detached paint. I worked my way out from the center in very short strokes so as not to damage any good paint. My goal was to change the nature of the chip from being crater like to having straight side, more or less. I then cleaned the area to remove any ceramic coat.

Once that was done, I heated the area with a hair dryer to warm it so the paint would flow better. Then I shook the heck out of the pen and used the brush to apply a tiny bit of paint and build up the layers of wet paint. I wore a magnifying visor so my old eyes could see better.

I would suggest practicing this on something other than your truck to gain familiarity with the brush and viscosity of the paint.

I then used a Glide Floss Pick to very carefully take the excess paint off (there is invariably a bump and the pick helped me to level the new paint to the old paint without sanding). The pick has an extremely flexible 'pick' end that is shaped like a curved blade. I used the inside edge of it so as to not remove too much paint. It took a few applications of the paint to get a feel for it and get it right. Make very small strokes and lift off, clean paint from the pick and go again.

I used a lint free cloth to remove any tiny paint smears that made it onto the original paint.

The repairs look good, I know where they are but I can't see them until I get really close.

The repair is in the highlighted circle of the included photos. I used a shadow line so I could find the repair in the photo too highlight it.

1740888959974-j6.jpg



1740888654103-xs.jpg



1740888721897-rh.jpg
Very much appreciate your detail. Thank you for sharing the pics as well. I ended up getting a similar product to what you describe with both a brush and pen applicator. I’ll share my results.
 

FreedomPenguin

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I would just use alcohol, clean it, fill a layer primer, keep doing little layers of paint dry paint dry paint dry, til almost flush after dry. Then do clear, let dry, clear, let dry, clear let dry. Til it’s dried with excess

then polish it with a rag and polish compound buff til smooth

it’s what I’ve always done. No issues
 
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Ravinus

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I would just use alcohol, clean it, fill a layer primer, keep doing little layers of paint dry paint dry paint dry, til almost flush after dry. Then do clear, let dry, clear, let dry, clear let dry. Til it’s dried with excess

then polish it with a rag and polish compound buff til smooth

it’s what I’ve always done. No issues
Awesome…thanks!
 

FreedomPenguin

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Awesome…thanks!
I use a toothpick to apply drops and move around the primer and paint

the clear is easy though, because excess isn’t big deal Itl come off when polishing the area smooth but try to keep it isolated in that area.

I use toothpick tho on my chips much smaller than yours. It helps precision in smaller chips
 

Tim d

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I did my first wash today of my 25 XLT and found where a rock had hit my car. It’s pretty deep and I don’t want any rust. I would also like to avoid the body shop. Any suggestions for a quick and easy remedy?

IMG_5655.jpeg
IMG_5654.jpeg
Lacquer nail polish works in a pinch until you can get the expensive Ford paint.
 
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SuperDave71

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The paint on the Maverick has been criticized from the beginning as being less than durable. I have two fords, a superduty and my Maverick (23xlt), both have approximately 80,000 miles. I have probably 10x the number of chips on the Maverick, even though I operate them on the same roads at the same speeds. I suspect the E coat that ford does to mitigate corrosion on the Mavericks is somehow limiting how well the paint bonds. Even on the Midwest salted roads I travel, none of my rock chips have begun to rust, granted it’s only two winters, but that E coat seems to work.
 

DefiantDJ

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The REAL trick to touch up is i use a very fine straight brush that holds less than one tiny drop of paint, do ONE LAYER at a time, and let it dry in between layers.

You will be building up the paint slowly until it is level when dry.

If you just put one thick layer it will take longer to dry and sink i to the chipped area. And if you add more paint before it fully drys it can flake out.

Take your time, go slow, and you can fill the chip with patience and a steady hand.
 

710-oil-614

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I use a toothpick to apply drops and move around the primer and paint

the clear is easy though, because excess isn’t big deal Itl come off when polishing the area smooth but try to keep it isolated in that area.

I use toothpick tho on my chips much smaller than yours. It helps precision in smaller chips
Tooth pick or needle. Good advice for him. I would suggest watching youtube for some videos on how to finish it. Once the chip is filled in with paint a light wet sand will help blend it all back in so it looks uniform.

I unfortunately gave the rear quarter a little chip with a tape gun that rolled off my bed cover so I'll be getting around to fixing that in warmer weather.
 

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I would overfill the chip. As the solvent evaporates, the bump will go down and turn into a crater. You will likely need multiple coats. If too many coats are applied and you are left with a bump, it is still correctable. Lots of YouTube videos on chip repair and leveling.
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