Oil is cheap. Engines are expensive [LOCKED DUE TO INSULTING BEHAVIOR BY OP]

[cannon]

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[SP1966]

You really don’t know how much that engine is running. There is some idling even when it is in electric mode. Most of us aren’t going to get 50% of our miles on electric. The best most of us will do is 40%. If isn’t wise to push that oil to the limits it is going to get way too dirty in 10000 miles.

The vast majority of my trips are 50% electric or more. Besides, even if I go with your 40% figure 10k miles will be just 6k on the engine oil. Given the hybrid run full synthetic there is no real concern.

 

[BlueSnake77]

Never could understand car owners that cheap out on changing the oil in thier car, but probably think nothing of spending hundreds of dollars on a new cell phone. Other than a house, your car is your most expensive investment.

 

[Snox801]

I don't trust the OLM. For one thing, it has no idea what the quality of oil you have. I change the oil on my 09 CRV at 5-6k miles and the OLM says it is at 60% life. If you can't trust the OLM on a turbo engine why do you think you can trust it on a nonturbo or hybrid? 12k is just too darn far even if they are all highway miles. OEMs aren't interested in your vehicle lasting more than 100k miles. They want to sell you another one. That is exactly why I don't like buying used vehicles. Some fool thinks they can roll 20k miles because it says so on the bottle. It isn't wise to push your science to the LIMIT. Dirty oil damages engines and creates SLUDGE. The oil may still be good at 12k miles but how dirty is it? Those passages in an engine are small and if they get clogged with sludge, you have a problem.

Don't direct injected engines, like our 2.0, have a tendency to put a certain amount of gas into the oil? I know all engines do to a certain degree but I think DI engines do it a little more. No one, that I can tell, has brought this up in this thread, but I think it is important.

I use Mobil One and change it every 3500 miles. First oil change was at 1500 miles.

Yes they certainly do. In fact I believe that’s why they went from 0w20 back to 5w30. Ford had everything going with 5w20 then back to 5w30. I believe it was to compensate for the fuel dilution from di.
Again why oil selection is so important. Many oils are much better at protecting with higher fuel dilution than other. Industry standard is around 5 percent most oils can handle. But some will still pass wear tests at up to 15 percent.

 

[Cherokee]

10,000 mile intervals got me to,
528,000 trouble free miles in a Tacoma. Mobil 1 full syn.

394,000 miles on a 6.0L straight six AMC motor designed in 1957
And converted to EFI before they put it in my 1996 Jeep Cherokee
Worn crank bearings vibrated and took out the rear main.
That was on Roach oil at 5,000 mile service intervals.

I took several Fords, 4 bangers, V-6’s and a Cleveland And TWO Windsor blocks past
350,000 miles my way.
Those all died the same way. Loss of compression. So I wore them out.
Not a single thing inside any of these engines ever clogged up or broke, NOTHING !

I must add, we regularly ran the shit out of them for about thirty minutes once a week.

A buddy took a Tacoma to 500,000 miles with 10,000 mile oil changes using Jiffy Lube.
He let them use the cheapest roach oil they had.
He traded it in running like new.

Most can’t believe this because they cannot be wrong. It is impossible for some to face the fact they may not know it all.

oil is good until the additive package is used up or the filter clogs up.
Back in the day we’d change just the filter. Then on the next service we’d change just the oil on our work trucks.
the engines lasted just as long as when oil and filter were changed together.

Most all the additive package’s were good to about 8,000 miles in roach oil.

Full syn, ‘cracked’ or what ever.
The additive package lasted about 16,000 miles.

This long term test was done in New York with couriers. On Ford V-6 engines of the day.
By taking monthly oil samples out for analysis.

But alas, no one believes the science unless it agrees with what they say.

The purpose of this text is to stress to 90% Of the owners to just fagetaboutit,
Enjoy your Mav,
Run Motorcraft Full Syn at 5,000 miles service intervals.
You know you’re gonna want a new Tonka Toy long before you clog up or wear out your engine.

Don't get sucked into over servicing your engine.

The math I remember would put your oil’s condition at 65% at 3,000 miles in normal driving conditions.
Why waste the oil, your only running a useless larger carbon footprint print.

Did U know that dirt track racers would gut the oil filter media out then put a roll of toilet paper in. It would only last one race but it never clogged and engine,
Something about less restrictive oil flow.

 

[Whitty1]

The vast majority of my trips are 50% electric or more. Besides, even if I go with your 40% figure 10k miles will be just 6k on the engine oil. Given the hybrid run full synthetic there is no real concern.

Anyway, you can justify abusing your vehicle and not changing your oil. I will never buy a car from someone like you. Every time that engine stops, all the oil starts to flow back in the pan. When you restart, you have metal on metal until the oil gets pumped back to the top of the engine. You are driving with dirty oil for thousands of miles. All because you are too cheap to pay $100 to change the oil. The next guy that gets your car will have to spend thousands to replace the engine. I bet your cars are junk when you trade them in. It hurts your resale value. 10k miles may be okay if they are all cruising down the highway miles but no not city miles. Hybrid or not. When you are cruising down the highway your engine if running efficiently, hot, well-oiled, and happy. If you are starting/stopping it is when the wear occurs. Oil gets black because of all the carbon that gets in it from the combustion process. I would rather pay $100 now than thousands later. That is the whole point of the original post. That guy was going by the oil monitor and his engine was ruined at 100k miles. You can't want until the car tells you to change the oil. Not if you want it to last a long time. Your reasoning is FLAWED

 

[Whitty1]

10,000 mile intervals got me to,
528,000 trouble free miles in a Tacoma. Mobil 1 full syn.

394,000 miles on a 6.0L straight six AMC motor designed in 1957
And converted to EFI before they put it in my 1996 Jeep Cherokee
Worn crank bearings vibrated and took out the rear main.
That was on Roach oil at 5,000 mile service intervals.

I took several Fords, 4 bangers, V-6’s and a Cleveland And TWO Windsor blocks past
350,000 miles my way.
Those all died the same way. Loss of compression. So I wore them out.
Not a single thing inside any of these engines ever clogged up or broke, NOTHING !

I must add, we regularly ran the shit out of them for about thirty minutes once a week.

A buddy took a Tacoma to 500,000 miles with 10,000 mile oil changes using Jiffy Lube.
He let them use the cheapest roach oil they had.
He traded it in running like new.

Most can’t believe this because they cannot be wrong. It is impossible for some to face the fact they may not know it all.

oil is good until the additive package is used up or the filter clogs up.
Back in the day we’d change just the filter. Then on the next service we’d change just the oil on our work trucks.
the engines lasted just as long as when oil and filter were changed together.

Most all the additive package’s were good to about 8,000 miles in roach oil.

Full syn, ‘cracked’ or what ever.
The additive package lasted about 16,000 miles.

This long term test was done in New York with couriers. On Ford V-6 engines of the day.
By taking monthly oil samples out for analysis.

But alas, no one believes the science unless it agrees with what they say.

The purpose of this text is to stress to 90% Of the owners to just fagetaboutit,
Enjoy your Mav,
Run Motorcraft Full Syn at 5,000 miles service intervals.
You know you’re gonna want a new Tonka Toy long before you clog up or wear out your engine.

Don't get sucked into over servicing your engine.

The math I remember would put your oil’s condition at 65% at 3,000 miles in normal driving conditions.
Why waste the oil, your only running a useless larger carbon footprint print.

Did U know that dirt track racers would gut the oil filter media out then put a roll of toilet paper in. It would only last one race but it never clogged and engine,
Something about less restrictive oil flow.

I bet you haven't torn down one engine to see what it looks like inside after you abused it like that. My dad has and so has Brian. He does it every day

 

[Whitty1]

Yes they certainly do. In fact I believe that’s why they went from 0w20 back to 5w30. Ford had everything going with 5w20 then back to 5w30. I believe it was to compensate for the fuel dilution from di.
Again why oil selection is so important. Many oils are much better at protecting with higher fuel dilution than other. Industry standard is around 5 percent most oils can handle. But some will still pass wear tests at up to 15 percent.

It is not just the oil but what gets in the oil. It is the contaminants you need to remove with an oil change.

 

[Cherokee]

I bet you haven't torn down one engine to see what it looks like inside after you abused it like that. My dad has and so has Brian. He does it every day

I believe you guys I do but what I'm saying is My engines lived out very long service lives without
3,000 mile oil changes.
I'm assuming you guys tore down damaged engines, not problem free good running engines.

Back In the old days when my Impala would show full oil on the dip stick after a change with less
than the usual amount we'd drop the oil pan and clean out the sludge.
I remember the engine clogging Castrol.
Again, Oil's are better, engines are better.

All the mechanics I've talked to that were up to date on oil and engines told me I was doing fine getting such extreme miles. More than a few agreed with me saying 3,000 mile oil changes was throwing money away with these Synthetic oils.
I believe based on my experience I'm doing it right.
With the extreme length of trouble free service I've gotten out of my engines, wearing them out after such a long life, I could care less about what shape they were in Internally.

Was it abuse ? Absolutley ! A half million miles in the Florida heat with half ton loads in stop and go traffic and Interstate crawling. That was great service without changing out still good oil.

 

[Whitty1]

I believe you guys I do but what I'm saying is My engines lived out very long service lives without
3,000 mile oil changes.
All the mechanics I've talked to that were up to date on oil and engines told me I was doing fine getting such extreme miles. More than a few agreed with me saying 3,000 mile oil changes was throwing money away with these Synthetic oils.
I believe based on my experience I'm doing it right.
With the extreme length of trouble free service I've gotten out of my engines, wearing them out after such a long life, I could care less about what shape they were in Internally.

Was it abuse ? Absolutley ! A half million miles in the Florida heat with half ton loads in stop and go traffic and Interstate crawling. That was great service without changing out still good oil.

3000 mile oil changes is not throwing it away when you have a turbo that cooks the oil. 5-6k miles is good all others. Hybrid or not. It is cheap insurance if you want it to last. But i guess you plan on dumping it on some dumb smuck before the engine is toast. 10000 is way too many miles unless they are all highway miles.

 

[Cherokee]

3000 mile oil changes is not throwing it away when you have a turbo that cooks the oil. 5-6k miles is good all others. Hybrid or not. It is cheap insurance if you want it to last. But i guess you plan on dumping it on some dumb smuck before the engine is toast. 10000 is way too many miles unless they are all highway miles.

Don't you know these oil's are turbo rated ?
I sold one truck of mine with 180,000 miles to a Dumb Smuck friend of mine, He knew as much about oil life and engine servicing as I do. I told him I did 5,000 mile Intervals with Roach oil.
He drove it past 300,000 miles NOT doing 3,000 mile oil changes. He traded it on a new one.
It ran fine.

Back in the 70's when engines did well to hit 100,000 your knowledge was spot on, 3,000 mile oil intervals were the norm. I never missed.
Times have changed luckily.

 

[ZABSMAV]

YEP. All the OEMs have been moving to turbos to get more power out of smaller engines to meet CAFE and emission standards. A big engine can handle a turbo. These small engines are under more stress.

Another thing that should be looked at by the Trump Administration and Congress is eliminating CAFE regulations altogether and letting the marketplace decide what fuel mileage and engines a buyer wants. Those that want ultra reliability and torque, i.e. for towing will want something different from the daily commuter or grocery store shopping driver. CAFE is just another socialism experiment gone amuck.

 

[CajunMick]

Turbos, like steroids, pump an engine up. And they are full of heat on both the hot exhaust side and compressor side. That’s why there’s intercoolers. The engine oil lubricates, also keeps bearings cool. I’m a big proponent of prelube and postlube system, that to get oil flowing before engine startup, and to keep oil circulating after shutdown to prevent coking of oil from heat in the turbo.

 

[Meeka]

Turbos, like steroids, pump an engine up. And they are full of heat on both the hot exhaust side and compressor side. That’s why there’s intercoolers. The engine oil lubricates, also keeps bearings cool. I’m a big proponent of prelube and postlube system, that to get oil flowing before engine startup, and to keep oil circulating after shutdown to prevent coking of oil from heat in the turbo.

How do I “prelube” my EcoBoost before start-up?

 

[Whitty1]

Turbos, like steroids, pump an engine up. And they are full of heat on both the hot exhaust side and compressor side. That’s why there’s intercoolers. The engine oil lubricates, also keeps bearings cool. I’m a big proponent of prelube and postlube system, that to get oil flowing before engine startup, and to keep oil circulating after shutdown to prevent coking of oil from heat in the turbo.

there is another issue you brought up with turbos. I bet most people don't let them cool down before shutting the engine off which is important after you drive them hard. I bought a preoiler about 30 years ago and it seemed to be more trouble than was worth. It is a good idea but I bet few do it. The OEM should put it on at the factory, especially on hybrid engines but they don't want these vehicles to last much past 100k miles

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