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SpaceCowboy

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Installed a Kicker L7R 10” with a Kicker Key 500.1 last night.

install was pretty straight forward. I used a 6” powersports amp kit and hooked up power and ground right at the battery. I used high level inputs of the key to utilize signal sensing (no need to run a remote wire).

I removed the light switch and mounted the bass knob in the black space. It’s a good location and doesn’t look out of place.

I spend a good amount of time playing with amp settings but ended up using my own vs the auto tune ones.

When mounting the amp to the back wall I used two existing bolts and just elongated 2 mounting holes on the key. I used some aggressive double sided tape on the back side as well and it’s super solid.

Special thanks to Chris at Sound Decisions. After the transaction I had my box in 2 days. High quality and made this install easy.

Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system IMG_2757


Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system IMG_2756


Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system IMG_2755


Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system IMG_2754


Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system IMG_2752


Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system IMG_2751


Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system IMG_2747


Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system IMG_2749
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colinl

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first of all, congrats, nice system. heck of a grille on that sub, hehe.

I spend a good amount of time playing with amp settings but ended up using my own vs the auto tune ones.
uh... what? that looks like a kicker key 500.1, I have one also.

there aren't any amp settings other than gain (edit) and crossover frequency. you can't tweak the EQ or DSP at all it's just auto-tuned or off. did you have issues getting the automatic tune to complete? because, I've had issues with that on key series amps, also. it can be a PITA.

you definitely want to use the autotuned dsp and you should not have to mess with the gain afterwards. the dsp will fill in the very low bass quite well, and it'll remove any peaks due to the sync3 source, cabin gain, resonance, etc.
 
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Cabiles1

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This is sick!! I need to look into fitting a 10” in my box. I have an 8” right now but I miss having the 10” from my last truck. May I ask what cu. ft. of air space your sub requires?

Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system IMG_4548
 
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SpaceCowboy

SpaceCowboy

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This is sick!! I need to look into fitting a 10” in my box. I have an 8” right now but I miss having the 10” from my last truck. May I ask what cu. ft. of air space your sub requires?

IMG_4548.jpeg
It needs about .66 the thin L7T needs .5
 
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SpaceCowboy

SpaceCowboy

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first of all, congrats, nice system. heck of a grille on that sub, hehe.


uh... what? that looks like a kicker key 500.1, I have one also.

there aren't any amp settings other than gain (edit) and crossover frequency. you can't tweak the EQ or DSP at all it's just auto-tuned or off. did you have issues getting the automatic tune to complete? because, I've had issues with that on key series amps, also. it can be a PITA.

you definitely want to use the autotuned dsp and you should not have to mess with the gain afterwards. the dsp will fill in the very low bass quite well, and it'll remove any peaks due to the sync3 source, cabin gain, resonance, etc.
Yes you are correct. I spent a lot of time listening more or less after running the gain track and the sweep track. I wasn’t happy with the adjusted setting so o currently have them off. I also didn’t have my spectrum analyzer at home. I may give that a go in my free time. I have the gain and crossover adjust to where my ears think it should be (I think over the years I have decently calibrated ears lol) I didn't have an issue with getting the auto tune to complete.

Which tune files did you use? What dB?
 
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colinl

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Yes you are correct. I spent a lot of time listening more or less after running the gain track and the sweep track. I wasn’t happy with the adjusted setting so o currently have them off. I also didn’t have my spectrum analyzer at home. I may give that a go in my free time. I have the gain and crossover adjust to where my ears think it should be (I think over the years I have decently calibrated ears lol) I didn't have an issue with getting the auto tune to complete.

Which tune files did you use? What dB?
-5dB now, after using 0dB originally. After a month it sounded like my sub broke in and that's when I retuned with the -5dB.

Make sure you have the sync3 unit on stereo, no speed volume adjustment and tone controls flat. Then set the volume to like 23-26 and run the calibration. It should complete and in my case it was a massive improvement over no DSP correction.
 
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-5dB now, after using 0dB originally. After a month it sounded like my sub broke in and that's when I retuned with the -5dB.

Make sure you have the sync3 unit on stereo, no speed volume adjustment and tone controls flat. Then set the volume to like 23-26 and run the calibration. It should complete and in my case it was a massive improvement over no DSP correction.
I did the zero dB and was set at 23 for volume. I’ll let it break in some more and try again.
 

RAW4278

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Very nice set up space cowboy.im thinking about going this route with two ten inch jl audio subs with these two separate ground shaker boxes for some real thump.on Amazon for $310 for the pair free shipping.

Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system Screenshot_20240426_192707_Amazon Shopping


Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system Screenshot_20240426_192656_Amazon Shopping


Ford Maverick Installed: Subwoofer in B&O system Screenshot_20240426_192733_Amazon Shopping
 

colinl

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I did the zero dB and was set at 23 for volume. I’ll let it break in some more and try again.
Did you ever get the happy chime? I can't remember exactly my settings but I do remember it was not the first thing I tried... Or the 5th, lol.

The key 200.4 is even more picky.
 
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SpaceCowboy

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Did you ever get the happy chime? I can't remember exactly my settings but I do remember it was not the first thing I tried... Or the 5th, lol.

The key 200.4 is even more picky.
I thought I got the correct blinks. The subwoofer can’t make a chime. The 200.4 has the happy chime.

I can’t complain for 500 dollars for sub, box, amp, and wiring. One of my two best mods. The other was the diode dynamic fog lights.
 
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Ginger187

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Installed a Kicker L7R 10” with a Kicker Key 500.1 last night.

install was pretty straight forward. I used a 6” powersports amp kit and hooked up power and ground right at the battery. I used high level inputs of the key to utilize signal sensing (no need to run a remote wire).

I removed the light switch and mounted the bass knob in the black space. It’s a good location and doesn’t look out of place.

I spend a good amount of time playing with amp settings but ended up using my own vs the auto tune ones.

When mounting the amp to the back wall I used two existing bolts and just elongated 2 mounting holes on the key. I used some aggressive double sided tape on the back side as well and it’s super solid.

Special thanks to Chris at Sound Decisions. After the transaction I had my box in 2 days. High quality and made this install easy.

IMG_2757.jpeg


IMG_2756.jpeg


IMG_2755.jpeg


IMG_2754.jpeg


IMG_2752.jpeg


IMG_2751.jpeg


IMG_2747.jpeg


IMG_2749.jpeg
You have a gas cap button? Any rattle from your set-up?
 

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Rmnkys

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Installed a Kicker L7R 10” with a Kicker Key 500.1 last night.

install was pretty straight forward. I used a 6” powersports amp kit and hooked up power and ground right at the battery. I used high level inputs of the key to utilize signal sensing (no need to run a remote wire).

I removed the light switch and mounted the bass knob in the black space. It’s a good location and doesn’t look out of place.

I spend a good amount of time playing with amp settings but ended up using my own vs the auto tune ones.

When mounting the amp to the back wall I used two existing bolts and just elongated 2 mounting holes on the key. I used some aggressive double sided tape on the back side as well and it’s super solid.

Special thanks to Chris at Sound Decisions. After the transaction I had my box in 2 days. High quality and made this install easy.

IMG_2757.jpeg


IMG_2756.jpeg


IMG_2755.jpeg


IMG_2754.jpeg


IMG_2752.jpeg


IMG_2751.jpeg


IMG_2747.jpeg


IMG_2749.jpeg
 

Rmnkys

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Love your setup! What’s your take on “supposedly”only being able to have a 30 amp maximum draw on the system? Im assuming your having no issues with the kicker key 500.1 drawing a max of 91 amps of current. Did you replace the other speakers as well? If so, what did you use?
Lastly, do you have a video of it playing?
 
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SpaceCowboy

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Love your setup! What’s your take on “supposedly”only being able to have a 30 amp maximum draw on the system? Im assuming your having no issues with the kicker key 500.1 drawing a max of 91 amps of current. Did you replace the other speakers as well? If so, what did you use?
Lastly, do you have a video of it playing?
Good question! I didn’t take that into consideration. I have a 50 amp fuse on the amp in the manual they recommend 60 amp. I don’t think it will draw much over 35 amps using I=V/P where V=14 and P=500. I don’t have any lights that dim, I’m not getting any messages on my ford app but I’ve only had it in for 2 days. I have all my other speakers intact and have bass set at +1 and mid at +2 or 3 and treble set higher at maybe 5. It pounds pretty hard in there. I don’t have a video of it playing because through a phone or anything else you won’t hear anything of quality. It really was a straight forward install.
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