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White Noise from Speakers after Amp install

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tech4hire

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There shouldn't be noticeable white noise regardless, so there's more going on than just the lead.
Correct I changed the ground location and issue still remains.
Changed to a remote wire turn on and issue remains.
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Ryom

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This is one of the reason's I'm super hesitant to add-on to modern factory sound systems. In the olden times you'd replace EVERYTHING from the head unit forward and problem solving was much easier due to that fact.
 
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tech4hire

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This is one of the reason's I'm super hesitant to add-on to modern factory sound systems. In the olden times you'd replace EVERYTHING from the head unit forward and problem solving was much easier due to that fact.
Okay well the issue appears to be the wiring kit itself. I bought 2 different Plug N Play kits and both of them gave static/white noise from the speakers. Last kit (12) produced what sounded like hi-pass frequencies to the sub. I ripped everything out and cut up the 11-4 harness and made my own and it works like a champ without any noise.

Does anyone have the address for Plug N Play wiring? Its not listed anywhere on his website and he stopped returning my emails.
 

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Okay well the issue appears to be the wiring kit itself. I bought 2 different Plug N Play kits and both of them gave static/white noise from the speakers. Last kit (12) produced what sounded like hi-pass frequencies to the sub. I ripped everything out and cut up the 11-4 harness and made my own and it works like a champ without any noise.

Does anyone have the address for Plug N Play wiring? Its not listed anywhere on his website and he stopped returning my emails.
Doesn't look like there is a business address listed, but they do have a phone number listed:
PLEASE CALL US 203-889-1843 M-F 10 -6 EST OR EMAIL [email protected]
 
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Doesn't look like there is a business address listed, but they do have a phone number listed:
PLEASE CALL US 203-889-1843 M-F 10 -6 EST OR EMAIL [email protected]
I finally got a hold of him and returned his product. Could not get rid of the white noise using the AMP install for the Kicker 200.4. I have my suspision as I took apart the 11-4 wireharness and saw how things were put together. Maybe its just my car. I have a Hybrid so I dont know if those have some funky electrical issues.

The issue (I believe) is related to how the Kicker AMP gets its input as well as the sub. The harness has the front +/- left and right output from the Headunit connected to the wires going into the speakers as well as the amp and to the sub output. These should be separated. The wires going from the head unit should bypass the speakers and go to the amp, the wires going to the speakers (on the other side of the harness) should go to the output side of the AMP. The sub output should be attached to the rear speaker output from the headunit. Rear speaker wires on the harness should go to the AMP.

I believe this would provide the best signal inputs for the amp coming directly from the headunit and a clean output from the amp directly into the speakers.

Both Harnesses I bought had the same issue and were basically wired the same. I tried three different applifiers and two different subwoofer output devices.

Right now I removed the Kicker amp and am just running an amp to the subwoofer. Front L/R are going directly to the speakers, Rear L/R are tapped with a Kicker Line Output. Bass sounds perfect and I do not have any white noise coming from any speakers.

I may attempt to re-install the amp with the method above but I am so sick and tired of tearing myconsole apart I might leave it for a bit.

Figured I would share my experience.
 

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Thanks for posting the resolution. A lot of technical help threads die when the original poster solves the problem without ever posting the solution. 👍
 

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The harness has the front +/- left and right output from the Headunit connected to the wires going into the speakers as well as the amp and to the sub output.
Glad you at least got to the bottom of it. The wiring described above sounds redonk.

This weekend I'm putting in an HS10 based on the PAC harness. I already have a Kicker 200.4 using the PAC harness, but I'm going to see if I can add the harness' rear/sub split pigtail for speaker-level inputs into the HS10. I may have to revisit the gain settings on the 200.4 afterwards, but that's relatively easy. I'll let you know if it works, because in theory it's a great, simple way to add a 4-channel amp plus an amplified sub. 🤞
 
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tech4hire

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Glad you at least got to the bottom of it. The wiring described above sounds redonk.

This weekend I'm putting in an HS10 based on the PAC harness. I already have a Kicker 200.4 using the PAC harness, but I'm going to see if I can add the harness' rear/sub split pigtail for speaker-level inputs into the HS10. I may have to revisit the gain settings on the 200.4 afterwards, but that's relatively easy. I'll let you know if it works, because in theory it's a great, simple way to add a 4-channel amp plus an amplified sub. 🤞
This picture validates my wiring

Ford Maverick White Noise from Speakers after Amp install Wiring
 

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This picture validates my wiring

Wiring.webp
Not following. That’s the harness I was hoping you were using 20 posts back, and the one I’m using myself.

What I thought you were actually using, per your posts, is a different custom harness, and that wiring is what I was saying sounded ridiculous.
 
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tech4hire

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Not following. That’s the harness I was hoping you were using 20 posts back, and the one I’m using myself.

What I thought you were actually using, per your posts, is a different custom harness, and that wiring is what I was saying sounded ridiculous.
I was using the plug n play kit, not this one. This kit is how I believe it shoudl be wired. The Kit from Plug N Play has all the Speaker wires connected together and then out to the various inputs and outputs to and from the AMP.
 
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I was using the plug n play kit, not this one. This kit is how I believe it shoudl be wired. The Kit from Plug N Play has all the Speaker wires connected together and then out to the various inputs and outputs to and from the AMP.
Ok, so I have added the HS10 to my system using the PAC harness. It works exactly like I thought it would. There are no LOCs or other devices needed.

The four head unit speaker signals are going via the PAC to a Key 200.4 behind the glovebox, powering new front components and upgraded rear speakers. The 200.4 has a selectable high-pass crossover built in.

I used the PAC "Sub-T" harness to split off the rear signals before they get to the 200.4, and ran shielded speaker-level cable from that back to the HS10.

If I'm being honest, I don't see what all the fuss about the PnP harnesses is. I basically accomplished the same thing with the PAC harness, maybe $20 of crimp connectors, and a roll of Tesa fleece tape.
 
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Ok, so I have added the HS10 to my system using the PAC harness. It works exactly like I thought it would. There are no LOCs or other devices needed.

The four head unit speaker signals are going via the PAC to a Key 200.4 behind the glovebox, powering new front components and upgraded rear speakers. The 200.4 has a selectable high-pass crossover built in.

I used the PAC "Sub-T" harness to split off the rear signals before they get to the 200.4, and ran shielded speaker-level cable from that back to the HS10.

If I'm being honest, I don't see what all the fuss about the PnP harnesses is. I basically accomplished the same thing with the PAC harness, maybe $20 of crimp connectors, and a roll of Tesa fleece tape.
What is the PAC harness model number you used. I think I want to buy it and prep the wiring for the amp when I want to get back to it.

Thanks!
 

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I finally got a hold of him and returned his product. Could not get rid of the white noise using the AMP install for the Kicker 200.4. I have my suspision as I took apart the 11-4 wireharness and saw how things were put together. Maybe its just my car. I have a Hybrid so I dont know if those have some funky electrical issues.

The issue (I believe) is related to how the Kicker AMP gets its input as well as the sub. The harness has the front +/- left and right output from the Headunit connected to the wires going into the speakers as well as the amp and to the sub output. These should be separated. The wires going from the head unit should bypass the speakers and go to the amp, the wires going to the speakers (on the other side of the harness) should go to the output side of the AMP. The sub output should be attached to the rear speaker output from the headunit. Rear speaker wires on the harness should go to the AMP.

I believe this would provide the best signal inputs for the amp coming directly from the headunit and a clean output from the amp directly into the speakers.

Both Harnesses I bought had the same issue and were basically wired the same. I tried three different applifiers and two different subwoofer output devices.

Right now I removed the Kicker amp and am just running an amp to the subwoofer. Front L/R are going directly to the speakers, Rear L/R are tapped with a Kicker Line Output. Bass sounds perfect and I do not have any white noise coming from any speakers.

I may attempt to re-install the amp with the method above but I am so sick and tired of tearing myconsole apart I might leave it for a bit.

Figured I would share my experience.
Sorry if this was already addressed before, but sounds like you got delivered tee harnesses and not loopback harnesses, they fucked up if thats not what you ordered. I ended up dismantling my tee harness after one of the shitty solder jobs on it broke, leaving me with one channel dead, and it was pretty easy to turn into a proper loopback harness with heat shrink armor on the whole thing. I did 4 channels so 16 conductors, 2 in and 2 out for each channel, and just put all the appropriate pairs into wagos while I saved up for the dsp amp I wanted. 100 ft of 16 awg wire and solder tools/lots of heat shrink to keep it all neat.
 

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