PAC LPHFD31 Wiring to amp and speakers

[NCXLT]

I’ve been searching and haven’t found it yet, if a thread exists please link and I’ll try to lock or delete if I can.

Trying to order what I need to upgrade speakers and add a sub in a 2025 XLT Hybrid.
Ordered Kicker 6704 speakers, their smaller tweeter as it doesn’t seem the ones with this set fit.
kicker 4” rears
Comp 10” sub
Key 400.4 amp
500.1 sub amp

There is the wiring harness, looks like it ties into the receiver. So you get the speaker outs the best I can tell, plan to run that back to the amps behind the rear seats.
questions. What gauge wire goes from the speakers from the dash?

Trying to determine if amp wires need to go back to the dash and tie into speaker Wires in the dash.
Or do I need to run wires to all the speakers. I know I’m probably going to have to maybe run a wire from the front doors to the tweeters if there is a cross over somewhere in there.

Can anybody with a 2025 XLT hybrid with the new receiver?

Sponsored

 

[AF Blue]

I’ve been searching and haven’t found it yet, if a thread exists please link and I’ll try to lock or delete if I can.

Trying to order what I need to upgrade speakers and add a sub in a 2025 XLT Hybrid.
Ordered Kicker 6704 speakers, their smaller tweeter as it doesn’t seem the ones with this set fit.
kicker 4” rears
Comp 10” sub
Key 400.4 amp
500.1 sub amp

There is the wiring harness, looks like it ties into the receiver. So you get the speaker outs the best I can tell, plan to run that back to the amps behind the rear seats.
questions. What gauge wire goes from the speakers from the dash?

Trying to determine if amp wires need to go back to the dash and tie into speaker Wires in the dash.
Or do I need to run wires to all the speakers. I know I’m probably going to have to maybe run a wire from the front doors to the tweeters if there is a cross over somewhere in there.

Can anybody with a 2025 XLT hybrid with the new receiver?

Disclaimer: not a 2025 owner ..... just experience using the T-harness
(and 4" kickers in rear ... and the Key 200.4 + key 500.1 - connected as you intend)

All you need to add to the T-harness is this:
PAC LPHEXT17 Speaker Harness Extension
(or speed wire: Install Bay MC918-20 9-wire is what i used)

The harness creates the break between head output and speakers.
You do not need to replace any other wiring unless you want to or need to
in the case of component setups.

 

[NCXLT]

Disclaimer: not a 2025 owner ..... just experience using the T-harness
(and 4" kickers in rear ... and the Key 200.4 + key 500.1 - connected as you intend)

All you need to add to the T-harness is this:
PAC LPHEXT17 Speaker Harness Extension
(or speed wire: Install Bay MC918-20 9-wire is what i used)

The harness creates the break between head output and speakers.
You do not need to replace any other wiring unless you want to or need to
in the case of component setups.

Ok, thanks. With the kicker component speakers, will wires need to be ran from the door speakers to the new tweeters? I’m assuming there will be something in the factory wiring I’ll need to bypass some type of factory cross over.

The question on the wiring will come down to what gauge the factory wiring and this harness is. If nobody knows, I’ll try to update this when I get to it. Thanks

 

[SkeWest]

Disclaimer: not a 2025 owner ..... just experience using the T-harness
(and 4" kickers in rear ... and the Key 200.4 + key 500.1 - connected as you intend)

All you need to add to the T-harness is this:
PAC LPHEXT17 Speaker Harness Extension
(or speed wire: Install Bay MC918-20 9-wire is what i used)

The harness creates the break between head output and speakers.
You do not need to replace any other wiring unless you want to or need to
in the case of component setups.

Hoping you can help me as well. Sounds like I have a similar setup as yours. Installing Kicker Key 200.4 and 500.1 and have both PAC harnesses.

1. Where did you get the speaker inputs for your 500.1? I’m thinking splicing into the speaker harness before it goes into the 200.4? Front speakers?

2. What did you use for remote turn on? I was thinking the accessory 12V off the PAC harnesses?

3. Did you install both amps behind the rear seat or just the 500.1 and the 200.4 behind the glove box?

Thanks for your help!!

 

[AF Blue]

Hoping you can help me as well. Sounds like I have a similar setup as yours. Installing Kicker Key 200.4 and 500.1 and have both PAC harnesses.

1. Where did you get the speaker inputs for your 500.1? I’m thinking splicing into the speaker harness before it goes into the 200.4? Front speakers?

2. What did you use for remote turn on? I was thinking the accessory 12V off the PAC harnesses?

3. Did you install both amps behind the rear seat or just the 500.1 and the 200.4 behind the glove box?

Thanks for your help!!

Hi there.

1. I used 3-position Wago nuts to split the front signal to both 200.4 and 500.1 Key Amp inputs.
2. I used speedwire w/ it's remote turn-on wire ... to either Fuse #3 or #6 in passenger foot well.
(speed wire: Install Bay MC918-20 9-wire is what i used)

3. Yes, both amps behind the back seat.

 

[SkeWest]

Thanks so much!!

 

[NCXLT]

Hoping you can help me as well. Sounds like I have a similar setup as yours. Installing Kicker Key 200.4 and 500.1 and have both PAC harnesses.

1. Where did you get the speaker inputs for your 500.1? I’m thinking splicing into the speaker harness before it goes into the 200.4? Front speakers?

2. What did you use for remote turn on? I was thinking the accessory 12V off the PAC harnesses?

3. Did you install both amps behind the rear seat or just the 500.1 and the 200.4 behind the glove box?

Thanks for your help!!

1 - I’m using the pack 17 extension wires, ran to the back. I initially used a y splitter wire I got off amazon to split the front channel. I’m having a weird issue with the right front speaker now in that sometimes sound stops coming out of it and it just has a 2 beat sound coming out.
2 - Ordered a micro 2 fuse extender on fuse #3 that’s 10amp and supposed to be a spare. Ran that back with the PAC 17 speaker wiring and then split it to share with the 200 & 500
3 - I used a 1/4” piece of abs from amazon and mounted it on the passenger side behind the rear seat. Then mounted both amps to it.

 

[SkeWest]

Thanks. Wonder why the issue with the front right speaker. Almost sounds like a short in the speaker wire or loose connection

 

[NCXLT]

Thanks. Wonder why the issue with the front right speaker. Almost sounds like a short in the speaker wire or loose connection

No idea, think maybe had to do with having a tweeter hooked up to the factory wiring, 4 ohm vs the ohm factory, I just ran wires from the crossover.

But then got everything buttoned up and then 500.1 stopped playing bass. Come to find out, it would only produce sound if I took the balance and put it either on the right or left speaker.

So I finally unplugged one of the channels going to the amp. Started playing with balance on default but at reduced level.

Plugged the speaker wires for the right back into the input to the 500.1 and everything works.

Power the system off and on for several times and no issues.

I have some kicker line outs that claim they provided a steady voltage and that some oem stereos can go into protection mode if they detect load issues. Going to add those before splitting the signal if it happens again.

The wiring is straight forward, vehicle is new with 50 miles on it, pac wiring harness is new. Simple, straight runs. Started another thread on it.

I will note, now that I run tweeters directly from the cross over, the acm is showing open circuit faults on speakers 1 & 2, assume those are the factory tweeter circuits. Trying to figure out how what acm modules equate to them and if there is a way to turn them off?

 

[Toddman45]

No idea, think maybe had to do with having a tweeter hooked up to the factory wiring, 4 ohm vs the ohm factory, I just ran wires from the crossover.

But then got everything buttoned up and then 500.1 stopped playing bass. Come to find out, it would only produce sound if I took the balance and put it either on the right or left speaker.

So I finally unplugged one of the channels going to the amp. Started playing with balance on default but at reduced level.

Plugged the speaker wires for the right back into the input to the 500.1 and everything works.

Power the system off and on for several times and no issues.

I have some kicker line outs that claim they provided a steady voltage and that some oem stereos can go into protection mode if they detect load issues. Going to add those before splitting the signal if it happens again.

The wiring is straight forward, vehicle is new with 50 miles on it, pac wiring harness is new. Simple, straight runs. Started another thread on it.

I will note, now that I run tweeters directly from the cross over, the acm is showing open circuit faults on speakers 1 & 2, assume those are the factory tweeter circuits. Trying to figure out how what acm modules equate to them and if there is a way to turn them off?

You may need a set of these to remedy your issue with the factory radio, makes it think there's speakers hooked up to it when using an aftermarket amp.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD/AudioControl-AC-LGD-Load-Resistors.html?tp=90107

 

[squirlz]

But then got everything buttoned up and then 500.1 stopped playing bass. Come to find out, it would only produce sound if I took the balance and put it either on the right or left speaker.

Sounds like you have one of the inputs wired backwards, or out of phase. You will notice the cancellation in the low end. Switch polarity on one of your inputs.

 

[NCXLT]

Sounds like you have one of the inputs wired backwards, or out of phase. You will notice the cancellation in the low end. Switch polarity on one of your inputs.

Using the Pac wiring harness, coming from the radio and the back into the speaker wires at the head unit, the connectors only go one way.

I’ve triple checked and the wire colors match up. The entire channel stops playing and as mentio there is just a sound in two beats you hear, babump, babump and just repeats on a cadence.

I kind of think it’s tweeters wired to the stock wiring in testing.

But that doesn’t explain why all of a sudden, that issue goes away and bass goes away if you play sound through all channels from the balance fade screen. But if you put it just to the left side or the right side, then it would work. I did unplug the right side feed to the 500.1 and then everything worked and then just plugged it back in the same way and then so far the issue hasn’t shown back up, but I still haven’t figured out a scenario that causes either to happen.

I’m going monitor and see if I can figure out a pattern, to now it almost seems as if the volume got to a level that caused a clipping, that would trigger. I say that because I didn’t have the crossover set on the 200.4 until recently set to 120. Without that, the new rear 4” speakers would clip trying to tune even without any gain on amp 2 which the rears run on, they would clip with any type of bass in a song. Just odd to me, clipping from the amp on the rears would cause the right front to have an issue.

Thanks for the input and I’ll update here if I ever figure out exactly what the issue(s) are/were.

 

[NCXLT]

You may need a set of these to remedy your issue with the factory radio, makes it think there's speakers hooked up to it when using an aftermarket amp.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD/AudioControl-AC-LGD-Load-Resistors.html?tp=90107

Thank you, I have some of these. https://www.kicker.com/KISLOC2 Next thing I’m going to try if it happens again.

 

[colinl]

I’ve triple checked and the wire colors match up.

I agree with squirlz. despite matching the colors and checking 3x, the having an input out of phase definitely can cause what you're experiencing. swap + and - on one of the fronts and likely this goes away or if not you get a new symptom that might be a clue.

Sponsored