Vehicle not starting

[Glen Baker LLC]

I don't know if this will help you or not.
Fuse 11/12 is actually one combined socket here are some pictures.
I hope this helps good luck,
GB

This is fuse 11/12's location on the fuse panel.

This is what it looks like once removed

Important You do not have to remove the glove compartment in order to access the fuse box
This is the passenger compartment panel you have to remove to access the fuse box

Good luck

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[HeyBales]

haybales..
rather than remove the fuse i opted to go to the manual and do this:


Connecting the Vehicle to a Mobile Network - Enabling and Disabling the Modem

Enabling and Disabling the Modem

1. From the settings menu, press Connectivity.
2. Press Connected Vehicle Features.
3. Switch vehicle connectivity on or off.

hope this does the same thing-wonder if Ford did/does any connecting on their side...

Thanks again for the tip,

That's for your connectivity with services/features that may use it.

Ford is going to upload data after each turn-off, and after start-up.
And if TPMS reports a tire going flat.
Or 12V battery has reached new lows.

Fuse 11 stops the latter. Well, the former too obviously.
That option doesn't stop the latter.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

That's for your connectivity with services/features that may use it.

Ford is going to upload data after each turn-off, and after start-up.
And if TPMS reports a tire going flat.
Or 12V battery has reached new lows.

Fuse 11 stops the latter. Well, the former too obviously.
That option doesn't stop the latter.

RE: Fuse 11/12. I haven't checked to see what fuse 12 is used for. Is it possible that 12 would be for user connectivity options and 11 is for Ford connectivity option? Or fuse 12 leg of the fuse 11/12. Should a single fuse for the combination fuse 11/12 be considered if 12 is used for something else? Or would fuse 12 leg be an option for computer to replace fuse 11 leg if needed?

 

[Brick Row]

That's for your connectivity with services/features that may use it.

Ford is going to upload data after each turn-off, and after start-up.
And if TPMS reports a tire going flat.
Or 12V battery has reached new lows.

Fuse 11 stops the latter. Well, the former too obviously.
That option doesn't stop the latter.

Are you saying that the procedure does not turn off the modem?
Thinking a bit more, do you think Ford app uses the modem to keep track of things like vehicle status and location along with the ability to lock/unlock or is this connection done another way--does not seem possible, but it has access somehow.

The app is also refreshed regarding things like error conditions and when service is due or done so I am pretty sure that goes through Ford to get to me.
Lots going on here....


Early on I read that someone had said the Maverick is a computer that can get you around and it seems like that is pretty close to being accurate.

You mentioned the connectivity function also does 12V battery monitoring-it seems like when I first started the truck after the dead battery thingie there should have been some notification that the battery was indeed pretty low. The attached files are screen shots of the messages category in the app showing issues on ard after the radiator leaking issue on October 12th. Nothing shows anything about the battery except maybe when they possibly disconnected it while performing the work on October 15th but nothing since then after the battery was dead and after the vehicle was jump 'started'.

Sure is a long way from 9000 rpm SBChevys...

I still like the vehicle and only have 5000 miles on it!

 

[HeyBales]

RE: Fuse 11/12. I haven't checked to see what fuse 12 is used for. Is it possible that 12 would be for user connectivity options and 11 is for Ford connectivity option? Or fuse 12 leg of the fuse 11/12. Should a single fuse for the combination fuse 11/12 be considered if 12 is used for something else? Or would fuse 12 leg be an option for computer to replace fuse 11 leg if needed?

No power to the modem - that has been confirmed by a couple posters I've seen.
So there is no their service or your service - there is no service possible.
Other leg is unused.
Just like the other fuse spots in there.

 

[HeyBales]

Are you saying that the procedure does not turn off the modem?
Thinking a bit more, do you think Ford app uses the modem to keep track of things like vehicle status and location along with the ability to lock/unlock or is this connection done another way--does not seem possible, but it has access somehow.

The app is also refreshed regarding things like error conditions and when service is due or done so I am pretty sure that goes through Ford to get to me.
Lots going on here....


Early on I read that someone had said the Maverick is a computer that can get you around and it seems like that is pretty close to being accurate.

You mentioned the connectivity function also does 12V battery monitoring-it seems like when I first started the truck after the dead battery thingie there should have been some notification that the battery was indeed pretty low. The attached files are screen shots of the messages category in the app showing issues on ard after the radiator leaking issue on October 12th. Nothing shows anything about the battery except maybe when they possibly disconnected it while performing the work on October 15th but nothing since then after the battery was dead and after the vehicle was jump 'started'.

Sure is a long way from 9000 rpm SBChevys...

I still like the vehicle and only have 5000 miles on it!

That procedure does not turn off the modem.
It prevents its use by services YOU might want to use.
It does not stop Ford's use of it.

Truck talks up thru AT&T wireless to Ford servers. (25MY up can use WiFi)
Your Ford app talks thru whatever connection your device has to Ford servers.

The things you mention are exactly what is sent up when you turn the truck off, if that modem is working and there is network.
The app gets that info from the server. You can also go to a Ford website to see it too.

And it's those hourly pings to keep the network "active" that allows Ford servers to reach out to the truck for the App functions you mention - remote access functions.

Regarding no alerts on your 12V battery - there couldn't have been.
The truck has to decide it's going to turn the modem off due to reaching a low battery state - so it sends one last message and then turns the modem off.
They disconnected your battery after probably draining it a bit, maybe not bad enough, or it was, but prior to the hourly connection and check of things.
From looking at graphs on drivers that have battery monitors and had tire or battery saver alerts - it happens on that hourly ding, which makes sense. Going to ping the data connection to keep it up, anything to report?

They just happened to disconnect your battery prior to that next ping that might have notified you the modem was going to be disabled.
The notices about the 12V battery - battery saver is being enabled you may notice lights off sooner, please drive more. And remote features have been disabled, drive more.

When they reconnected battery - already too low, modem wasn't enabled to send a last notice.

On my first dying battery, my only notice of Deep Sleep Mode (DSM) when modem is disable, was during dealership's load test to confirm I was ready for a warranty battery.
I passed. Or rather failed. Or rather won - got one of the last FLA batteries being installed.
15 months later that battery is now so low I'm getting the DSM notice after every stop.
Actually, I've reach the lowest point of it not actually keeping the modem active after the drive - there is no final data upload of info, so no notice of DSM enabled.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

That procedure does not turn off the modem.
It prevents its use by services YOU might want to use.
It does not stop Ford's use of it.

Truck talks up thru AT&T wireless to Ford servers. (25MY up can use WiFi)
Your Ford app talks thru whatever connection your device has to Ford servers.

The things you mention are exactly what is sent up when you turn the truck off, if that modem is working and there is network.
The app gets that info from the server. You can also go to a Ford website to see it too.

And it's those hourly pings to keep the network "active" that allows Ford servers to reach out to the truck for the App functions you mention - remote access functions.

Regarding no alerts on your 12V battery - there couldn't have been.
The truck has to decide it's going to turn the modem off due to reaching a low battery state - so it sends one last message and then turns the modem off.
They disconnected your battery after probably draining it a bit, maybe not bad enough, or it was, but prior to the hourly connection and check of things.
From looking at graphs on drivers that have battery monitors and had tire or battery saver alerts - it happens on that hourly ding, which makes sense. Going to ping the data connection to keep it up, anything to report?

They just happened to disconnect your battery prior to that next ping that might have notified you the modem was going to be disabled.
The notices about the 12V battery - battery saver is being enabled you may notice lights off sooner, please drive more. And remote features have been disabled, drive more.

When they reconnected battery - already too low, modem wasn't enabled to send a last notice.

On my first dying battery, my only notice of Deep Sleep Mode (DSM) when modem is disable, was during dealership's load test to confirm I was ready for a warranty battery.
I passed. Or rather failed. Or rather won - got one of the last FLA batteries being installed.
15 months later that battery is now so low I'm getting the DSM notice after every stop.
Actually, I've reach the lowest point of it not actually keeping the modem active after the drive - there is no final data upload of info, so no notice of DSM enabled.

My question is why have some gone through batteries more than others??
Next month my OEM Flooded with a manufacturer date of 12-22 will be 4 years old. My truck has a built date of 1-23. I have less than 30,000 miles on it. It's not like I drive it all the time.
The only proactive things I have done is, removed fuse 11/12 and I 100% use my parking brake. In the last two years I used the charger twice, hooked directly up to the battery. That was when fuse 11 was installed and I wasn't getting interior lights. Then when I reinstalled it to see if would affect the interior lights again and it did. So, I pulled the fuse. When I changed internet service at the house. I never logged my Maverick into it.
I have one of those cheap cigarette lighter style digital voltmeters. I've seen it briefly register 14.8 while the truck is on.
Last time I drove my truck was Wednesday afternoon. I don't do any of the light tricks.
I'm confident I can walk out to my truck now and open the door in the interior lights will come on. Here's the video I just recorded.

 

[HeyBales]

I think Mavster's report on his new truck is perfect example of the terrible start that many drivers probably get on their new truck.

No way possible what appears to be a typical driver from these forums could get their battery fully charged from normal driving routine.
Unless they just happened to do long drives to float charge up to 92% SOC AGM's (85% FLA), and then happened to keep it there while doing the tricks often enough to get it up to 100% or close.

Do you have the little 390A battery Made in Spain, or in Mexico?
Mine in Spain.

So for those with problems - start with a potentially cheap battery that already sat on the shelf during manufacture for awhile.
Mine dated last week of Nov 23 made, for truck mfg date 3/24, activated (more modules on) 4/8/24. Bought mid-5/24. 30 mile drive between dealerships for their trade.
When did you take yours home?

Said cheap battery sulphates faster than normal, when undercharged - which it mainly is.
Some don't as fast I'm guessing.
When resistance goes up - charging goal goes down.
Mavster had 60% SOC for the longest time - kept there with 1 hr drives x 2 daily.

Then add in anything that knocks it down that requires some motivated charging levels - which can now make a sulfated battery worse.
Parasitic drains cut short by going to sleep finally - but battery still dropped more than normal - requiring more than normal charging levels the next few drives. Despite comments - the system can charge high enough for long enough - when it sees imbalance.
Despite Ford not including the TCU in their list of potential drains - I'm betting it's more common than they think, especially with iffy AT&T coverage areas.
My phone drops battery fast in those conditions - trying to connect, trying to send bits of data successfully but retrying constantly till it gives up. How long until the truck gives up?

The no lights at all appears to be the abouts 35% SOC level on turn off.
Below around 50% are the shortened time limit - perhaps not even noticed by many. Actually that seems 12.1 V.

I'm surprised you don't see 14.8V almost all the time - that's normal charging level while on. Or higher, I'm seeing 15.1 with float amps now after 10-15 min of driving.

So I think luck of the draw on a decent or not so decent battery.
How long that sat around before getting any charge.
Did dealership perhaps charge it before truck was taken.
Did driving methods allow it to remain at a decent level.
Have you been hit with partial battery drains, or worse some full drains.

 

[tiktokbrainrot]

My question is why have some gone through batteries more than others??
Next month my OEM Flooded with a manufacturer date of 12-22 will be 4 years old. My truck has a built date of 1-23.
The only proactive things I have done is, removed fuse 11/12 and I 100% use my parking brake. In the last two years I used the charger twice, hooked directly up to the battery. That was when fuse 11 was installed and I wasn't getting interior lights. Then when I reinstalled it to see if would affect the interior lights again and it did. So, I pulled the fuse. When I changed internet service at the house. I never logged my Maverick into it.
I have one of those cheap cigarette lighter style digital voltmeters. I've seen it briefly register 14.8 while the truck is on.
Last time I drove my truck was Wednesday afternoon.
I'm confident I can walk out to my truck now and open the door in the interior lights will come on. Here's the video I just recorded.

Nobody knows, including Ford, likely why it hasnt been fixed. The Covid era software is a total mess and the contractors who built it are long gone.

 

[icegradner]

I think Mavster's report on his new truck is perfect example of the terrible start that many drivers probably get on their new truck.

No way possible what appears to be a typical driver from these forums could get their battery fully charged from normal driving routine.
Unless they just happened to do long drives to float charge up to 92% SOC AGM's (85% FLA), and then happened to keep it there while doing the tricks often enough to get it up to 100% or close.

Do you have the little 390A battery Made in Spain, or in Mexico?
Mine in Spain.

So for those with problems - start with a potentially cheap battery that already sat on the shelf during manufacture for awhile.
Mine dated last week of Nov 23 made, for truck mfg date 3/24, activated (more modules on) 4/8/24. Bought mid-5/24. 30 mile drive between dealerships for their trade.
When did you take yours home?

Said cheap battery sulphates faster than normal, when undercharged - which it mainly is.
Some don't as fast I'm guessing.
When resistance goes up - charging goal goes down.
Mavster had 60% SOC for the longest time - kept there with 1 hr drives x 2 daily.

Then add in anything that knocks it down that requires some motivated charging levels - which can now make a sulfated battery worse.
Parasitic drains cut short by going to sleep finally - but battery still dropped more than normal - requiring more than normal charging levels the next few drives. Despite comments - the system can charge high enough for long enough - when it sees imbalance.
Despite Ford not including the TCU in their list of potential drains - I'm betting it's more common than they think, especially with iffy AT&T coverage areas.
My phone drops battery fast in those conditions - trying to connect, trying to send bits of data successfully but retrying constantly till it gives up. How long until the truck gives up?

The no lights at all appears to be the abouts 35% SOC level on turn off.
Below around 50% are the shortened time limit - perhaps not even noticed by many. Actually that seems 12.1 V.

I'm surprised you don't see 14.8V almost all the time - that's normal charging level while on. Or higher, I'm seeing 15.1 with float amps now after 10-15 min of driving.

So I think luck of the draw on a decent or not so decent battery.
How long that sat around before getting any charge.
Did dealership perhaps charge it before truck was taken.
Did driving methods allow it to remain at a decent level.
Have you been hit with partial battery drains, or worse some full drains.

I cannot speak for Glen, the factory SLI battery in my 22 Hybrid lasted from when the truck was built in May 2022, until last Monday (October 26th). It should have been in bad shape honestly. It sat a month in Mexico waiting to get on a train, and then took another month to reach the dealership in July 2022. There was no manufacturing date on the battery that I could see, so I don't know how old it really was. I charged it two or three times a year with a Noco genius 2. Otherwise just drove it like every vehicle I've owned before. So it lasted me 32k miles, and over 4 1/2 years, I do not use the interior lights, so I never get any of those hints. The only hit I get is if the exterior lights stay on for 10 seconds after opening a door.

Pic of factory battery I replaced on the 27th of October. Had to go back to pics from January 2023 to find this.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

I cannot speak for Glen, the factory SLI battery in my 22 Hybrid lasted from when the truck was built in May 2022, until last Monday (October 26th). It should have been in bad shape honestly. It sat a month in Mexico waiting to get on a train, and then took another month to reach the dealership in July 2022. There was no manufacturing date on the battery that I could see, so I don't know how old it really was. I charged it two or three times a year with a Noco genius 2. Otherwise just drove it like every vehicle I've owned before. So it lasted me 32k miles, and over 4 1/2 years, I do not use the interior lights, so I never get any of those hints. The only hit I get is if the exterior lights stay on for 10 seconds after opening a door.

Pic of factory battery I replaced on the 27th of October. Had to go back to pics from January 2023 to find this.

You hooked the charger directly to the battery . Holy crap
Don't you know what can happen?

I'm being sarcastic.
I have my charger hooked directly up to the battery and it remains hooked up in the truck nothing bad has happened.

 

[HeyBales]

I cannot speak for Glen, the factory SLI battery in my 22 Hybrid lasted from when the truck was built in May 2022, until last Monday (October 26th). It should have been in bad shape honestly. It sat a month in Mexico waiting to get on a train, and then took another month to reach the dealership in July 2022. There was no manufacturing date on the battery that I could see, so I don't know how old it really was. I charged it two or three times a year with a Noco genius 2. Otherwise just drove it like every vehicle I've owned before. So it lasted me 32k miles, and over 4 1/2 years, I do not use the interior lights, so I never get any of those hints. The only hit I get is if the exterior lights stay on for 10 seconds after opening a door.

Pic of factory battery I replaced on the 27th of October. Had to go back to pics from January 2023 to find this.

Mine was a stamp on top of the Negative post.
48
23

Yours was made in Spain it appears. It says ESP on the left.
But totally different labels. Likely the difference between cheaper and cheapest batteries!

 

[Brick Row]

That procedure does not turn off the modem.
It prevents its use by services YOU might want to use.
It does not stop Ford's use of it.

Truck talks up thru AT&T wireless to Ford servers. (25MY up can use WiFi)
Your Ford app talks thru whatever connection your device has to Ford servers.

The things you mention are exactly what is sent up when you turn the truck off, if that modem is working and there is network.
The app gets that info from the server. You can also go to a Ford website to see it too.

And it's those hourly pings to keep the network "active" that allows Ford servers to reach out to the truck for the App functions you mention - remote access functions.

Regarding no alerts on your 12V battery - there couldn't have been.
The truck has to decide it's going to turn the modem off due to reaching a low battery state - so it sends one last message and then turns the modem off.
They disconnected your battery after probably draining it a bit, maybe not bad enough, or it was, but prior to the hourly connection and check of things.
From looking at graphs on drivers that have battery monitors and had tire or battery saver alerts - it happens on that hourly ding, which makes sense. Going to ping the data connection to keep it up, anything to report?

They just happened to disconnect your battery prior to that next ping that might have notified you the modem was going to be disabled.
The notices about the 12V battery - battery saver is being enabled you may notice lights off sooner, please drive more. And remote features have been disabled, drive more.

When they reconnected battery - already too low, modem wasn't enabled to send a last notice.

On my first dying battery, my only notice of Deep Sleep Mode (DSM) when modem is disable, was during dealership's load test to confirm I was ready for a warranty battery.
I passed. Or rather failed. Or rather won - got one of the last FLA batteries being installed.
15 months later that battery is now so low I'm getting the DSM notice after every stop.
Actually, I've reach the lowest point of it not actually keeping the modem active after the drive - there is no final data upload of info, so no notice of DSM enabled.

Thanks again for all the good info.
I am thinking I could use the app and start the truck on a weekly basis and maybe avoid the battery issue.
Had you done that and done it in a timely fashion?
Lots to learn and at my age I am concerned that anything new learned will cause something to be forgotten--so far I still know my own name, but...

 

[BK007]

 

[HeyBales]

Thanks again for all the good info.
I am thinking I could use the app and start the truck on a weekly basis and maybe avoid the battery issue.
Had you done that and done it in a timely fashion?
Lots to learn and at my age I am concerned that anything new learned will cause something to be forgotten--so far I still know my own name, but...

Depending on the tracked charge vs discharge amp hours logged - you may only get 5-10 min of minor charging level, then float charge.

The number of amps discharged after turnoff for the next 60 min because you woke all the modules back up - will be more than battery got charged.

At least 2 posters I saw tried doing that - one at work during lunch time for testing. IIRC it took like 90 min runtime to compensate and end up even. He did let it run all afternoon or morning once for 4 hrs to basically recharge the battery back up to best it would get.

5-10 min of hopefully charging 5A steadily declining to 1A, then the remaining 5-10 min below 1A to 0.5A.

Then 60 min max, of discharging 4A steadily declining to 0.5A for 20 min, then 0.5-0.3 for 20-30 min, then 0.3A for final 10-20 min.
Then it'll drop (or should) to 25-50 mA level.

Each time modules need to go back to sleep - provides an opportunity for a glitch to allow something not to. Now you got a big drain.

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