Upgrading the XLT base audio system / door panel removal - finished with lots of pics.

[jayrx7trbo2]

I can answer that, fuse 3 and 6 in the fuse panel in the passenger floorboard are the only switched 12v.

I used a fuse add on (bunch of varieties on Amazon) with fuse 3.

My amp does support sensing from speaker signal but I didn't use it. Many do use it.

Thank you, I just found another video on here they used a
Pyle PLVHL70 2-Channel High-Level To Low-Level Converter with 12V Remote Turn-On so they never needed to run anything to the front except the power Wire makes life so much easier when i do the upgrade.. THANKS for all the write up info

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[John_Sawgrass_Ford]

Thank you to the OP. This post is helped me on my decisions to change some of the components in my newly arrived XLT black package.

 

[colinl]

Thank you to the OP. This post is helped me on my decisions to change some of the components in my newly arrived XLT black package.

I was curious what the OP was doing these days and it looks like he sold his Maverick. Dang it!

Still a great how-to thread. Others can answer any questions.

 

[Braderick]

Geez, I must be getting old from my HS days back in the early 90s. We didn't mess around much with speakers and tweeters but had the huge subwoofers, homemade boxes, and big amps. All Ive had since are all in one powered subs.

I think I want to add a good set of front door speakers like the Morels in my new XLT maverick but leave the factory tweeters and rear speakers alone......would like to amplify the fronts a bit and leave a channel for a hideaway sub soon after.

Is there a simple plug and play harness available yet for these to simply unplug the OEM speaker and add in line harness with pigtails to feed a 3, 4, or 5 channel amp and then to utilize the factory speaker wiring after to the speakers to avoid splicing into the OEM speaker wires or run new speaker wires?

This is all great info but if I can avoid it I try to avoid splicing into stuff. Ive never added a multichannel amp to power up things like door speakers (just subs alone) so I.m admittedly dumb in that area.

I think we call in Crutchfield…my cerebral clutch is loose.

 

[kkreit01]

I know this is a very old thread, and there's a lot of useful information. Since it's a "sticky", I thought it should be known that OP appears to have the front speaker wires swapped +/- -- according to this diagram:

 

[phlrmrz]

will 3 inch deep speakers fit?

 

[HushCarAudio]

Let me know if I can help with any questions. I'm an audio vendor here and have noticed the Maverick being nearly identical to the F150s. I'm very familiar with both the amplified and non amplified systems.

 

[Rhynock]

Which color wire in the head unit did you tap for the remote turn-on wire?

 

[CHills]

Can anyone tell me which (if any) of these wires behind the glove box, go to the passenger front door? I think I’m looking for Yellow-orange and Green-brown.
OR
Does the XL have the unused signal wires that would go to the B&O sub somewhere to tap into for my sub install?

 

[Toddman45]

Can anyone tell me which (if any) of these wires behind the glove box, go to the passenger front door? I think I’m looking for Yellow-orange and Green-brown.
OR
Does the XL have the unused signal wires that would go to the B&O sub somewhere to tap into for my sub install?

You can find the wires to tap behind the HVAC controls at the head unit connector. For the front passenger door you're looking for the blue wire for positive and gray /brown for negative.

I'm pretty sure the XL and XLT do not have the sub connector or wiring, that the lariat with the b&o would have.

 

[bckrupps]

I put a small kicker box in mine. The one with the 6 3/4 sub and passive radiator. Also put in the infinity coaxial speakers and took out the dash tweeters. Added the Puzu DSP as it was cheaper and plug in play. In these Mavericks the dsp and forscan tuning to flat eq make an astounding difference. If you go a step further and do time alignment you can get amazing sound at a very low cost. Setting the flat eq in forscan will also get rid of that 60hz cabin gain which is just hell to tame even with a dsp. About $400 and people would swear I spent double. You dont have to spend a lot but definately have to take time to finesse it and make lots of adjustments and have patience.

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