Upgrading the B&O 6x9

[Mavritch]

TL;DR:
The Cerwin Vega CVP69 6x9 woofer was a good find for $35, but its magnet was too big for the existing speaker cabinet. I used a 3D model for a 6x9 adapter plate and remixed it in Fusion 360 to create a 3d printed 30mm tall adapter that allowed the speaker to clear the cabinet and line up the screw holes. The speaker sits right on the back of the seat and works fine with the stock amp. I used #10 2" screws and silicone to secure and seal the adapter, and it's 100% reversible to stock with only the second set of threads from the new screws indicating that it was modified.

Full version:
I've gained some insights here and have some door speakers on the way, which sounds like the best bang for buck upgrade. However, I stumbled upon a single Cerwin Vega CVP69 on eBay for $35. Unfortunately, there aren't many options for finding a separate 6x9 woofer, least of all a single, and none drop into the existing speaker cabinet. Additionally, the magnet on the Cerwin Vega speaker was too big for the cabinet.

To solve this problem, I found a 3D model for a 6x9 adapter plate online and 3d printed it in two pieces. After a few iterations of remixing it in Fusion 360, I finally created an adapter that allowed the speaker to clear the cabinet, fit behnid the seat, and line up the screw holes. The adapter is 30mm tall, and the speaker sits right on the back of the seat. Although I imagine an amp upgrade might push the cone into the seat, it works with the stock amp, and the seat latches withoutnissue.

I'm happy to share the STL file, but I have to admit it's a bit wonky due to my limited skills with Fusion 360. I used #10 2" screws and silicone to secure the adapter, and to keep the gasket intact, I placed some plastic wrap over the top of the adapter when I installed it. You can see it in the pic incase you're wondering.

The best part is that the modification is 100% reversible to stock with only the second set of threads from the new screws indicating that it was modified.

It was a fun project but probably worth spending the time wiring up a second amp and dropping an 8" woofer under the seat like a normal person. That said, happy to still have my storage.

Base is clean, tight and at volume 10, it sounds like I have the base turned up two extra clicks. I didnt stress it because the silicone needs to set.

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[kkreit01]

Great job! I'm sure it sounds better than the pathetic OE speakers.

 

[MM Mav]

its magnet was too big for the existing speaker cabinet. I used a 3D model for a 6x9 adapter plate and remixed it in...

You lost me here... not familiar with 3D printing software.
Pictures indicate you did a nice job.

 

[Mavritch]

You lost me here... not familiar with 3D printing software.
Pictures indicate you did a nice job.

Its a bit of a learning curve. Would have probably taken 20 minutes with a jigsaw and some mdf but I wanted to try something new.

Great job! I'm sure it sounds better than the pathetic OE speakers.

Im happy with it for $35 (+$5 for screws and filament). I have the fade set 2 or 3 clicks to the rear from center so I could turn the bass up and get the 6x9 to work without blowing up the 6.5s in the door. I have some bass filters to install with the new door speakers and should be able to fade back to center without the doors producing full range. Hoping that has a nice tone with a little low end punch. I find i have the volume up 2 or 3 clicks more to get the same volume but with a full tone.

 

[colinl]

Its a bit of a learning curve. Would have probably taken 20 minutes with a jigsaw and some mdf but I wanted to try something new.


Im happy with it for $35 (+$5 for screws and filament). I have the fade set 2 or 3 clicks to the rear from center so I could turn the bass up and get the 6x9 to work without blowing up the 6.5s in the door. I have some bass filters to install with the new door speakers and should be able to fade back to center without the doors producing full range. Hoping that has a nice tone with a little low end punch. I find i have the volume up 2 or 3 clicks more to get the same volume but with a full tone.

You don't need filters, the front door of the b&o system has a high pass filter on it.

You do need to not crank the bass tone control. That'll make a big spike at 80hz or whatever it's centered on.

 

[Mavritch]

[

You don't need filters, the front door of the b&o system has a high pass filter on it.

You do need to not crank the bass tone control. That'll make a big spike at 80hz or whatever it's centered on.

My understanding is the tweeters have a high pass filter soldered on and Im just replacing the woofer but that doesnt mean the cabs arent filter for 150hz-600hz from the amp. The CV 6x9 woofer doesnt have a filter/crossover but only produces bass notes sonobviously the amp has a low pass filter. Inlining a filter wouldnt hurt anything.

Far as the bass and fade, its just a way to work around the fact the sub doesnt have a gain control on the sub and the power from the stock amp to the woofer is under powered when compared to the door speakers At stock settings. Im tuning by ear for what I like and not using a mic and modeling software so I might love it and you may hate it and I could easily be ruining the sound stage, but stock is way to forward for my taste

Do you know what/if the amp is filtering for the cab woofers and the rear?

 

[Aaron F]

Great job! I'm sure it sounds better than the pathetic OE speakers.

Were you able to get to this without pulling the back seat out. I took a quick glance at mine, and it looked pretty tight to get to the 6x9. I'd definitely be interested in the STL file in case I go this route at some point or want to upgrade the "sub"

 

[Darnon]

It can be removed with the seat in place, yes.

 

[colinl]

I used a flexible extension to get to one of the bolts on the 6x9 enclosure, I think maybe on the bottom. Just be aware that if you're removing it in favor of a powered sub or amp+sub, it will leave a hole. I slapped a piece of Amazon sound deadener over it.
(EDIT: I didn't realize which thread I was replying to on my phone, you guys probably are not trying to completely remove the 6x9 enclosure. Oops. )

 

[mfergel]

Could you share the STL with me? I assume you did it in two parts because you couldn't print it in one piece due to size?

 

[Mavritch]

I used a flexible extension to get to one of the bolts on the 6x9 enclosure, I think maybe on the bottom. Just be aware that if you're removing it in favor of a powered sub or amp+sub, it will leave a hole. I slapped a piece of Amazon sound deadener over it.
(EDIT: I didn't realize which thread I was replying to on my phone, you guys probably are not trying to completely remove the 6x9 enclosure. Oops. )

Actually a good point. I didn't cover it up but I debated it since its open to weather & dust.

 

[Mavritch]

Could you share the STL with me? I assume you did it in two parts because you couldn't print it in one piece due to size?

attached. It is 2 parts mostly because I couldn't figure out how to duplicate and merge in fusion. Its not perfect but it works. I suggest using some silicon to seal it up and prevent any air leaks. Stick with the 2" screws for all 4. I found the shorter screws only grab a thread or two and stripped. If you clean up the model, please repost. I could not get the legs to be symmetrical and just printed it after 20 minutes of farting around. The 3 corners on the curve could be knocked down a little. You'll see what I mean if you print it as is. You won't need to sand it or anything, but it would give a little more room to position the adapters.

I thought about printing in TPU but just didn't have the patience for it to print at 1/3 the speed of PLA+

 

[mfergel]

attached. It is 2 parts mostly because I couldn't figure out how to duplicate and merge in fusion. Its not perfect but it works. I suggest using some silicon to seal it up and prevent any air leaks. Stick with the 2" screws for all 4. I found the shorter screws only grab a thread or two and stripped. If you clean up the model, please repost. I could not get the legs to be symmetrical and just printed it after 20 minutes of farting around. The 3 corners on the curve could be knocked down a little. You'll see what I mean if you print it as is. You won't need to sand it or anything, but it would give a little more room to position the adapters.

I thought about printing in TPU but just didn't have the patience for it to print at 1/3 the speed of PLA+

Thanks.

 

[Mavritch]

Did the 6.5" in the door this week.... Definitely worth the time and $100 but now im back to not being able to hear the "sub" without fading to the rear. debating a mono block amp because the fromts sound too good. I went with 6.5" infinity refrence coaxial (by mistake) with crutchfield kit. Only mod required was to drill a whole in the adapter to feed the wire through. Siliconed all that too for a good air seal.

Doors sound as loud at 6-8 as they did at 10-12 but with much better mid tones, and a little more punch to low end- about what the stock woofer had with the bass cranked and faded to rear. Its a little "hissy" with coaxial tweeter clashing with the dash. Definately get seperates. Derp move on my part. Its not awful but im sure it would be better without coaxial doors unless you love high end. Definitely felt like I never heard Sound Garden's spoonman solo for real until now.

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