Transmission fluid check and service, with torque specs (per the Service Manual)

[Montana]

Was I just victim of a hybrid enthusiast over justifying their own purchase...

IMO...

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[NJBob]

Figured this is the right thread to get some clarity....

I recently had the hybrid(hybrids in general) talked up to me. It made me faulter a tad in my Ecoboost choice, but then reality set in and I realized it would take me 3 years to break even on gas savings for the $1500 hybrid upcharge.

I was read a Landry list of maintenance and repairs the Ecoboost would require to hit 200k and the hybrid wouldn't. Alternator, starter, tranny rebuild, turbo replacement, etc.

Was I just victim of a hybrid enthusiast over justifying their own purchase or do those of you who have experience with the Ecoboost see some validity in it needing a lot of work over the long run?

To me, most of my experience the past 20 years with my 2 Honda's, it doesn't seem that hard to get a modern ICE to 200k. Keep up with good fluid maintenance, spark plugs, water pump and belts at 100k, but otherwise easy breezy. As long as you don't beat the crap out of it.

My Honda CRZ hybrid went 260k before I wrecked it. Only major repair was a cat at 240k. Still ran great when I wrecked it. Can only hope the Mav is almost as good.

 

[801Maverick801]

Did the ATF, PTU, and RDU at 10k miles. Less than 100$ in fluid. Will probably do it every 20k Miles, cheap easy insurance.

 

[Montana]

Did the ATF, PTU, and RDU at 10k miles. Less than 100$ in fluid. Will probably do it every 20k Miles, cheap easy insurance.

You did the full drain? Can I ask how many quarts you needed? I know the spec is essentially 12 quarts but were you able to get it all out? RockAuto has it at $6 a quart which is definitely pretty cheap. I'm going to grab some ASAP since I have not yet done it at 13k and I am the second owner (bought at 11k). I did the check level and it needed half a quart, which isn't bad at all and nothing to worry about (or shouldn't be at least).

As for the PTU/RDU, I definitely agree. It's essentially around $60 every 20k and it's much needed due to the PTU location and small amounts of fluids in both drive units. I've done both already, ran them for 1k and redid them just to get all that factory crap out of there. Now I'll push 20k.

 

[LGRW_GoGRG]

Just called my local dealership and they charge over $200 to do the transmission fluid check/service. That seems kinda insane to me... I'm a noob and probably wouldn't be able to do this myself without royally fu$#ing something up. Looking at ~$300 including the Works package.

 

[Jah.]

Probably change trans fluid between 30 k miles (hard use) and 50 k miles regular use .

 

[Montana]

Just called my local dealership and they charge over $200 to do the transmission fluid check/service. That seems kinda insane to me... I'm a noob and probably wouldn't be able to do this myself without royally fu$#ing something up. Looking at ~$300 including the Works package.

It is not a hard process. Follow the steps, take your time. Gotta start somewhere. The hardest part is the planning and acquiring the right tools. Hose clamp pliers are needed for the removal of the cap. You can use regular pliers, but not exactly the greatest/easiest method especially when the space is limited. The vehicle can be left on the ground where it's level, wheels turned and an extension to reach the level plug. If you don't have the tools and are really worried, it's definitely best to start on something easier like oil changes, and the PTU/RDU (differentials). Harbor Freight is your friend for basic tools for these jobs.

 

[MatthewPK]

It's very easy to access the fluid level plug on the side of the transmission. You can get to it by simply turning the drivers side wheel outwards and using an extension to reach it.

Also a good idea to invest in a spring clamp plier that locks to make removing and replacing that vent cap easier.

Just food for thought before you tackle this job.

I've never seen fluid replacements be part of any warranty either, and most shops will quote the basic service intervals that are the longest for their maintenance plans. After what I saw in the RDU and PTU, I'm not going to risk a flush recycling any metal particles through the valve body in the opposite direction of their normal flow. I also don't know whether they use plastic or metal balls in there, but I know for a previous F150 I had they were plastic and would degrade over time, which allowed much more stuff including plastic particles that may have chipped from the valve body linings to lodge in more spots as well. Drain and refill should be plenty somewhere in the 30-60k interval. Just my two cents, as with any fluid, sooner/more often is better.

Is there a reason I can't just fill it from the level plug using a basic fluid pump?

If so, can't I just skip the part of removing the air box and top air filter?

 

[Montana]

Is there a reason I can't just fill it from the level plug using a basic fluid pump?

If so, can't I just skip the part of removing the air box and top air filter?

I don't see a reason why you couldn't. As long as it's level and in neutral while running it shouldn't make a difference. It's just a hard spot to get to unless you have a lift and/or take the tire off. I did mine without having to lift it at all and just turned the tire. Also while I was changing the air filter anyways.

 

[Cigargoyle]

Is there a reason I can't just fill it from the level plug using a basic fluid pump?

If so, can't I just skip the part of removing the air box and top air filter?

No, that's what I did. Drove til hot, put truck on ramps front & rear. Turned wheel full left. Removed skid plate. Drained fluid. Removed check plug & filled through plug hole with fluid pump until fluid ran back out. Put plug back in a thread or two. Started truck, ran through all gears, put in neutral & set park brake with engine running. Added fluid again until it ran back out and installed plug. Drove until hot & repeated process (minus the draining part). Only parts I had to remove were the skid plate and drain/fill plugs.

 

[CX430-4ME]

So, I prepared everything yesterday to do a transmission service on my 2023 2.0EB FWD w/8F35 and before I began I looked around to pinpoint all areas I will need to access. In doing so, I noticed that there is NO level plug on the side of the transmission. Do the FWD models not have one? Maybe I'm just not seeing it but i looked over the entire driver side of the transmission and there is nothing. That being said, how would you know you have put the right amount of fluid back in unless you measured exactly what you took out? Surely Ford has a way to get it exact.

 

[Cigargoyle]

So, I prepared everything yesterday to do a transmission service on my 2023 2.0EB FWD w/8F35 and before I began I looked around to pinpoint all areas I will need to access. In doing so, I noticed that there is NO level plug on the side of the transmission. Do the FWD models not have one? Maybe I'm just not seeing it but i looked over the entire driver side of the transmission and there is nothing. That being said, how would you know you have put the right amount of fluid back in unless you measured exactly what you took out? Surely Ford has a way to get it exact.

It's there, on driver's side, just behind the output to the left wheel. Should be a small sticker next to it mentioning ULV fluid. Had to turn steering full left and poke my head in the wheel well to see it. Want to say it's an 8mm hex plug, but don't recall size for sure.

 

[Automan21]

I’d say never put in the same amount you get coming out. Always use what the service manual says for capacity.

 

[Vols44]

I highly recommend a long stemmed funnel with a vent. The filler opening is short and the leveling plug provides a little venting. Otherwise it's a time consuming process when the displaced air has to find an escape.

 

[Nw_adventure]

I highly recommend a long stemmed funnel with a vent. The filler opening is short and the leveling plug provides a little venting. Otherwise it's a time consuming process when the displaced air has to find an escape.

I have a long funnel without a vent- How long does a 5QT fill take with an un/vented unit ?

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