Survey-Knocking noise with Eibach Lowering springs installed in past year

[Doug183]

Anybody have an update? I just installed my springs and they are knocking horribly. I lined up the front springs with the old seats (top and bottom - I thought perfectly). However the knocking is still there.

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[colinl]

Anybody have an update? I just installed my springs and they are knocking horribly. I lined up the front springs with the old seats (top and bottom - I thought perfectly). However the knocking is still there.

In front? If so, I had that immediately on a test drive. It was because I torqued the strut hat center nut while it was unloaded. If you wait to torque that until the front wheels have the weight of the truck on them, it shouldn't happen.

It's easy to fix, I just removed the clips from the black plastic cowl cover, lifted it a little to allow the plastic strut top covers to move, and gently twisted them out of the way. I checked the 3 exterior bolts as well, but they of course weren't loose. the strut top nut, however, could tighten quite a bit more.

 

[Doug183]

In front? If so, I had that immediately on a test drive. It was because I torqued the strut hat center nut while it was unloaded. If you wait to torque that until the front wheels have the weight of the truck on them, it shouldn't happen.

It's easy to fix, I just removed the clips from the black plastic cowl cover, lifted it a little to allow the plastic strut top covers to move, and gently twisted them out of the way. I checked the 3 exterior bolts as well, but they of course weren't loose. the strut top nut, however, could tighten quite a bit more.

Can I ask, what is the "tool" and its size to keep the strut rod from spinning?

 

[colinl]

Can I ask, what is the "tool" and its size to keep the strut rod from spinning?

ah. yeah, if a person just used an impact to spin the top nut, it isn't possible to torque it properly.

the center rod has a metric hex of some size on top, I think like 5 or 6 mm. I know for sure the top nut itself is a 17mm because I had to borrow a 17mm box wrench from a buddy. I used a metric hex bit and 17mm box wrench.

 

[Doug183]

ah. yeah, if a person just used an impact to spin the top nut, it isn't possible to torque it properly.

the center rod has a metric hex of some size on top, I think like 5 or 6 mm. I know for sure the top nut itself is a 17mm because I had to borrow a 17mm box wrench from a buddy. I used a metric hex bit and 17mm box wrench.

You are amazing. That did the trick. It was a 6mm Allen wrench by the way.

Second, I have the Hybrid, and for the rear springs, I don't have any factory bump stops. So do I I just skip installing the ones supplied or... where do they install?

 

[colinl]

You are amazing. That did the trick. It was a 6mm Allen wrench by the way.

Second, I have the Hybrid, and for the rear springs, I don't have any factory bump stops. So do I I just skip installing the ones supplied or... where do they install?

thanks, glad that helped.

amazing wasn't what I was thinking when it happened to me, lol. this was about the 4th time I've put lowering springs or coilovers on a vehicle and it's happened before. granted, most recently was over 10 years ago - but I still should've known better and kicked myself at the time.

I am not sure about the hybrid, if you take pics I can guess or others have definitely done hybrid lowering springs. I would not be surprised if it's under a cover. there was quite a bit of complaining about the rear shock rod cover being held in place just by friction, and once it starts sliding down you have to use a zip tie or something like that to hold it in place.

anyway, bet it's under there. not sure I'd bother right now though, since you'll have to take the rear apart again.

 

[Doug183]

Called Eibach and a nice tech (Kenneth) led me straight to the solution. (Basically he just googled better than me.

First Let me say, I wish there was a great write up how to change these springs. The two videos I found (one was a coil over) were just inadequate and honestly the first video I saw just left a whole lot of information out, so much so, that I will be basically doing this job twice. Not cool.

Here are the bump stop locations on the hybrid.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/lowered-my-maverick-where-are-the-bump-stops.35292/


Just in case others want to lower. Here are the missing bits of information.

REAR:
1) You are going to have to remove the entire shock as well as the spring. You are going to need to dissemble the top dust cover of the shock to replace the bump stops with the ones suppled by Eibach.

Front:
1) To remove the 2 bolts on the knuckle. One side (The Head) is 18mm and has what looks like a washer molded to the bolt. This side is "splined" and fits into splines on the inside of the strut, so don't try to turn the head. Nor do you need to hold that bolt head when spinning off the nut (which is 21mm - probably need a deep socket here.). After the 21mm nut is removed, use a hammer to knock the bolt out. NOTE: Upon re-insalling, use a hammer to get some the splines to push back in. No need to push it all the way in, tightening the nut later will pull it all the way through.

2) Before Removing the strut. From the engine compartment - After removing the plastic cover covering the top of the strut, , there are a number of holes you can see the top seating bracket of the strut - its usually black metal.. Use a paint marker or something sharp, and using one of the engine compartment holes mark the strut seating bracket (you will need to remember which hole you used later). This is for when you reinstall. That top strut backet rotates. The triangle pattern really only ligns up one way, but its a little hard to guess how it goes. The mark will make it much easier.

3) After the front strut is removed, you will need to remove the Top Hat nut on the strut. To get that nut off, you need to hold the strut from spinning. Use a 6mm Allen key to hold the strut mount from spinning. You might need an offset (angled?) wrench to get to that nut because its recessed.

4) The Front bump stops are also hidden, and it's under the dust cap, which is only held on by friction on the top and bottom. After removing the top strut seat and spring, you are probably going to need a flat head screw driver to remove the dust cap, so be careful not to poke a hole in the dust cover. You will need to remove the top and bottom of that dust cover to access the bump stop and cut it down.

5) After partially re-installing the "new" strut, you have to re-install the sway bar tie rod. However, now that the spring is shorter, the tie rod is way too long and will not line up with the hole on the strut. So, start up the car, spin the front wheels so the rear of front wheel is "wide" exposing that area. Then using a jack, gently raise the lower control arm so you can line up the tie rod with the strut bolt opening.

6) Before re-installing the plastic covers in the engine compartment. Since the springs are shortened, its kind of easy to hand thread the Hat Nut on top strut seat and tighten down with the offset 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen wrench. If you are like me, you just guess to leave the same 4-5 strut threads exposed like with the original springs. If you do this, you will get the dreaded knocking problem. But how the heck do you know what the torque specs are on a spring loaded strut? I have no idea either but here is a trick. Tighten all suspension bolts, re-install the wheel, and lower the car onto the ground. Now with the car with its wheels on the ground, using the 6mm Allen key and 17mm offset wrench, re-tighten the top hat nut. I bet you get 2-4 more turns out of it. Viola...front knocking solved.

 

[colinl]

not bad instructions.

I read pretty fast but I didn't think you mentioned the torx 40 bit needed to remove the front swaybar end links.

torquing that and the strut top hat are similar. hold the nut with an offset box end wrench and put your t40 or 6mm bit in your reversible ratcheting torque wrench and "loosen" the center to the torque spec.

however, just torquing it tight is probably fine. if it's loose it will make noise.

 

[Doug183]

not bad instructions.

I read pretty fast but I didn't think you mentioned the torx 40 bit needed to remove the front swaybar end links.

torquing that and the strut top hat are similar. hold the nut with an offset box end wrench and put your t40 or 6mm bit in your reversible ratcheting torque wrench and "loosen" the center to the torque spec.

however, just torquing it tight is probably fine. if it's loose it will make noise.

Thanks for the end links info. My "missing" information post, was just stuff I was very present to after spending 1.5 days doing this job because of things not listed on the video I watched. Since I didn't do the rear bump spots correctly and basically will have to redo most of this entire job again, I will see if I can at least grab stills of each step and post them here.

 

[colinl]

Yeeaah, I'm going to have to redo my rears also. My kit didn't include new rear bump stops and they sent me the wrong rear springs rather than replacement fronts. Fun times.

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