Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

[converseguy]

Diagram attached. Black is negative, but your other comments are spot on as you can see every other speaker has some other colors for negative.

Does the output seem improved at all? If it's a lower efficiency speaker it actually could be less SPL if it's very underpowered.

The B&O sub is linked to the rear fader. So that unfortunately does mean that if you want more output from it, you're also going to get more output from the rear 4" when you fade. If you punt on this experiment and want to connect an amp or powered sub to the B&O 6x9 connection, I recommend setting the fade with it disconnected and playing the system at volume 27-30. Then leave the fade where it is, forever, and set the gain on your amp / powered sub. That's what I did.

I just went out to my truck and played with the controls. I put the fade to 100% rear and the bass to 100% but the volume is low. When I move the face to 50% the front blasts all frequencies with what sounds like way more bass from the front door speakers than the new Dayton. As it stands replacing the original subwoofer with the Dayton was a waste of time and money. Any idea what I might have done wrong?

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[TruckPrius]

If you're using the adapter plate I posted, make sure you figure out a way to get a good seal so air isn't escaping around the sides. I used silicone putty to fill in the gaps the plate leaves near the mounting points. But it is true that to get what I think is reasonable bass, I had to fade it almost fully rear and boost the bass on the eq all the way.

For me it was more that it is now hitting lower tones, not necessarily a big bump in bass gain.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-o-upgrade-and-sub-solution.38884/post-731491

 

[colinl]

I just went out to my truck and played with the controls. I put the fade to 100% rear and the bass to 100% but the volume is low. When I move the face to 50% the front blasts all frequencies with what sounds like way more bass from the front door speakers than the new Dayton. As it stands replacing the original subwoofer with the Dayton was a waste of time and money. Any idea what I might have done wrong?

My first guess is actually a bad speaker. I am pretty sure someone commented on getting a bad speaker in this thread. If it's easy to do put the B&O 6x9 back and try again.

Don't max the bass tone control btw, that just makes a huge spike at 100hz and it sounds like ass.

 

[Montana]

If you're using the adapter plate I posted, make sure you figure out a way to get a good seal so air isn't escaping around the sides. I used silicone putty to fill in the gaps the plate leaves near the mounting points. But it is true that to get what I think is reasonable bass, I had to fade it almost fully rear and boost the bass on the eq all the way.

For me it was more that it is now hitting lower tones, not necessarily a big bump in bass gain.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-o-upgrade-and-sub-solution.38884/post-731491

Yea I noticed that! Thank you for sharing this. I was considering either just grinding it to fit or using some foam sealer.

I also made the mistake of covering that "bandpass" hole in the floor and finding out it made the speaker useless. FORD's decision with that whole setup is just odd and nothing I have ever seen before. A literal hole in the floor used for a bandpass box... Mind. Blown.

 

[rallyshark]

Free air, not bandpass

 

[TruckPrius]

I also made the mistake of covering that "bandpass" hole in the floor and finding out it made the speaker useless. FORD's decision with that whole setup is just odd and nothing I have ever seen before. A literal hole in the floor used for a bandpass box... Mind. Blown.

I found this diagram while poking around on the motorcraft website. That port looks like it points towards the gas tank and at least provides enough resistance for some of the moving air to come back into the cabin, though I'm sure it eventually opens up to the outside around the edges?

 

[colinl]

(snipped) and at least provides enough resistance for some of the moving air to come back into the cabin, though I'm sure it eventually opens up to the outside around the edges?

nah. it's definitely an infinite baffle. you can see daylight and the frame.

freeair in literal terms means it has no separation of the front and rear of the speaker cone. the b&o 6x9 does have separation, it just vents out to the atmosphere.

one interesting thing to try would be an aperiodic membrane over that hole. this makes it a leaky sealed enclosure instead of infinite baffle. if you know what that is chances are you're as old as me or older, LOL. I don't know where to find one. I googled and found some on eBay in various sizes, one of them is 80mm x 50mm that is probably not enough. Back in the 90s, you could buy sheets of it.

 

[rallyshark]

I remember back in the 90's reading articles about aperiodic membranes in enclosures. It was in Car audio and electronics magazine, I think. I guess that makes me old, lol.

 

[TruckPrius]

I made attempts at covering up the hole with sound deadener mat and separately bass blocker foam. In both cases the output of the sub was diminished, I'm assuming because it was restricting the movement of the sub on the back side. Would that aperiodic membrane not restrict it in the same way?

 

[colinl]

I made attempts at covering up the hole with sound deadener mat and separately bass blocker foam. In both cases the output of the sub was diminished, I'm assuming because it was restricting the movement of the sub on the back side. Would that aperiodic membrane not restrict it in the same way?

those are impermeable or near it.

an aperiodic membrane lets some air through. how fast it leaks through determines how large of a port you should make in a real design. this is different as the hole is already pre-determined.

let's be clear that covering the hole with that is just an idea of an experiment, not actually a suggestion that I think likely to make a major difference.

 

[HushCarAudio]

I use to love collecting magazines haha. We are all getting way too old.

 

[converseguy]

If you're using the adapter plate I posted, make sure you figure out a way to get a good seal so air isn't escaping around the sides. I used silicone putty to fill in the gaps the plate leaves near the mounting points. But it is true that to get what I think is reasonable bass, I had to fade it almost fully rear and boost the bass on the eq all the way.

For me it was more that it is now hitting lower tones, not necessarily a big bump in bass gain.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-o-upgrade-and-sub-solution.38884/post-731491

I bought these two adapters from Amazon. Universal 6"x9" 6x9 to 6 1/2" 6.5 Speaker Adapter Spacer Rings - 1/2" Thick - SAK045_55K - 1 Pair. I used both of them with no sealer. I had to do some filing on them to fit but they work. There are lots of extra mounting holes I did not plug with sealer.

 

[colinl]

I use to love collecting magazines haha. We are all getting way too old.

this, to me, was the finest of the 90s. https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/sho...er-s-Incredible-Competition-BMW-1999-AS-amp-S

 

[TruckPrius]

It's loud, clear, deep, easy, inexpensive and works way better than I thought I would ever get without an additional amp and sub. And It only bothers other drivers at a red light a little bit. Lol. I've had 8 inch powered subs in the past that didn't perform this well. Shakes my rearview... All that from the factory B&O amp, and I didn't splice a single wire, or break a single clip.

I was wondering why my experience is different than this though. Goes back to my question on another thread of whether my amp being different is the reason, or if it's the polarity that's being questioned.

 

[22Lariat]

I was wondering why my experience is different than this though. Goes back to my question on another thread of whether my amp being different is the reason, or if it's the polarity that's being questioned.

I'm using stock amp. The door speakers handle most of the mid bass. The subwoofer handles the sub bass... Hence the word "subwoofer". As stated, you are hearing deeper tones and more punch. So it's doing it's job. Seriously recommend replacing door speakers as well.

Everyone has different taste. As I stated earlier, don't expect a miracle. But it is an improvement. If you want obnoxious bass, spend the money to get what you want. If you don't like the Dayton and followed what I did, you can just return it to Amazon and put your truck back exactly how it was.

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