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colinl

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Yeah, Is that the scar evl? I considered that sub. If I remember correctly it needs a lot of power to run it, and I wasn't sure the B&O amp would have enough juice to run a 200 rms dual coil sub. Plus, I didn't want to cut the enclosure.

I bet you'd get a lot more out of that if you hooked it up to a mono sub amp. But I guess at that point you might as well scrap the whole B&O enclosure too.

I tried to keep it simple. It added depth while remaining balanced. I love it. But you can't expect miracles.
yeah - I think the Skar needs a lot more power than the B&O amp can provide. and if you give it more power, definitely go ahead and build a real box. what you did (OP) was a pretty good decision to use a fairly efficient sub. high power, long excursion subs aren't very efficient so they won't perform with low power.
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uh50

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I bet that sounds really good. And reasonably cost effective too.

"I probably could have stopped here and enjoyed the sound system...but that's not me."

I know what you mean. I have to restrain myself. Mine sounds good and I'm happy, but that DSP and custom sub is still calling me. I should act my age and preserve my wallet, and I would like to avoid hearing aids in the not too distant future. Lol
I'm still enjoying nice clean full sound from my Puzu. I don't listen to music very loud...kinda goes back to my days with my home Kenwood and Bose stereo system and the balanced sound it gave me.

There are a few here that have sucessfully installed the Puzu DSP Amp PZ-C7, but not all have had the same smooth sailing that I have. Notorioustintaz posted this thread Puzu dsp issues?

He posted the troubles he was having and a few guys offered some suggestions for him to check. Unfortunately, he did not follow up with posting any results from these suggestions. Too bad he didn't let us know his current status.

Anyway, I just reported my experiences and to be fair, everyone needs to read about issues too. I would ask you to read the thread about the Puzu DSP issues noted above.

I did not find many actual reviews of the PZ-C7 Amp.
Here is another only it is of the PZ-D8.

With that, I wish you well and good luck on whatever direction you go. :cool:
 

TruckPrius

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Its perfect for the spacing behind the seat, not sure if it would clear the magnet.
I was going to try this https://www.ebay.com/itm/1661860437...Zg04_usTYG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks for this post, very nice approach!

I basically paid the premium for a Lariat specifically for the upgraded sound system (the other stuff on the Lariat is nice don't get me wrong) and was expecting a lot more.. It feels like a lot of pressure on my ears while not being loud at the same time if that makes sense. Clarity is fine enough for me, but was really hoping for some more low end. I basically have the treble and mids set to 0 and bass maxed to get it sounding closer to where I want it. I might just try out upgrading the sub only, as I don't want to modify too much of the stuff I paid a warranty for 😭

That Audiopipe adapter plate say it's 2" thick and made for an 8" speaker. Would there be enough clearance to the back seat? The opening seems a bit large for that sub also or am I misinterpreting something? The specs from the sub's product page says:

Overall Outside Diameter6.57"
Overall Depth3.25"
Baffle Cutout Diameter5.62"



Another option I found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/294882948629
Do you think this would this be too thin for clearing the magnet? Or maybe I just stack 2 somehow? 😂


Edit: I ordered the sub, the spacers I posted and a metal 6.5" grill. Hope it works out, $111 for some more bass and minimal modifications to the vehicle seems like a deal.
 
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Stoutthedog

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I built my adapter plate out of 3/4” plywood and could not get the Dayton sub to fit into the enclosure. It was just barely hitting on some of the internal protrusions and would not sit flush. I wound up getting a 3/4” spacer ring to fit it all together. It is super tight getting it installed back into the truck, but I did get it in. It probably hits the back of the seat fabric, but it is definitely punchier. I don’t think a cover is going to fit. I might cut a 1” adapter plate as that may allow installation of the sub without the spacer ring.

Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. IMG_6024
 
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I built my adapter plate out of 3/4” plywood and could not get the Dayton sub to fit into the enclosure. It was just barely hitting on some of the internal protrusions and would not sit flush. I wound up getting a 3/4” spacer ring to fit it all together. It is super tight getting it installed, but I did get it in. It probably hits the back of the seat fabric, but it is definitely punchier. I don’t think a cover is going to fit.

IMG_6024.jpeg
Did you use the rubber seal on the spacer? That's the only thing I can think of that would make yours different. But it is tight. And mine does fit with the grill.
 

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I built my adapter plate out of 3/4” plywood and could not get the Dayton sub to fit into the enclosure. It was just barely hitting on some of the internal protrusions and would not sit flush. I wound up getting a 3/4” spacer ring to fit it all together. It is super tight getting it installed, but I did get it in. It probably hits the back of the seat fabric, but it is definitely punchier. I don’t think a cover is going to fit. I might cut a 1” adapter plate as that may allow installation of the sub without the spacer ring.

IMG_6024.jpeg
This is what I used for a seal and the result.

Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. 1700512075798577218170255278752


Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. 17005123567818710798007378903827
 

colinl

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I built my adapter plate out of 3/4” plywood and could not get the Dayton sub to fit into the enclosure. It was just barely hitting on some of the internal protrusions and would not sit flush. I wound up getting a 3/4” spacer ring to fit it all together. It is super tight getting it installed back into the truck, but I did get it in. It probably hits the back of the seat fabric, but it is definitely punchier. I don’t think a cover is going to fit. I might cut a 1” adapter plate as that may allow installation of the sub without the spacer ring.

IMG_6024.jpeg
you definitely do not want a sub without a grille playing against a seat back, seat bottom, etc. the surround will likely wear out pretty quickly from scuffing.
 

Stoutthedog

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Did you use the rubber seal on the spacer? That's the only thing I can think of that would make yours different. But it is tight. And mine does fit with the grill.
I did use a 1mm rubber seal around the plate and the sub had a 1mm rubber seal already attached, so maybe 1/16 In total. I can pull it out and try to double or triple up the seal height. I purchased it on Amazon and description said 1cm. Oh well.

How thick is that seal tape you used?
 
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I did use a 1mm rubber seal, around the plate and the sub had a 1mm rubber seal already attached, so maybe 1/16. In total. I can pull it out and try to double or triple up the seal height. I purchased it on Amazon and description said 1cm. Oh well.

How thick is that seal tape you used?
It was 1/4 inch weather strip rubber seal from home Depot. I put it inbetween the enclosure and the spacer, and again between the spacer and the sub. It compressed to approximately 1/4 inch in total. And I noticed you removed some of the enclosure. I did not have to do that at all. Is your cut out in the spacer dead center? That's the only other thing I can think that might cause obstruction. It is tight, but the magnet on mine does not contact the enclosure. I have no obstructions. And its about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the seat.
 

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It was 1/4 inch weather strip rubber seal from home Depot. I put it inbetween the enclosure and the spacer, and again between the spacer and the sub. It compressed to approximately 1/4 inch in total. And I noticed you removed some of the enclosure. I did not have to do that at all. Is your cut out in the spacer dead center? That's the only other thing I can think that might cause obstruction. It is tight, but the magnet on mine does not contact the enclosure. I have no obstructions. And its about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the seat.
I’ll pull the sub out and try thicker foam seal. Thanks a bunch. I also ordered the grill.
 
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Thanks for this post, very nice approach!

I basically paid the premium for a Lariat specifically for the upgraded sound system (the other stuff on the Lariat is nice don't get me wrong) and was expecting a lot more.. It feels like a lot of pressure on my ears while not being loud at the same time if that makes sense. Clarity is fine enough for me, but was really hoping for some more low end. I basically have the treble and mids set to 0 and bass maxed to get it sounding closer to where I want it. I might just try out upgrading the sub only, as I don't want to modify too much of the stuff I paid a warranty for 😭

That Audiopipe adapter plate say it's 2" thick and made for an 8" speaker. Would there be enough clearance to the back seat? The opening seems a bit large for that sub also or am I misinterpreting something? The specs from the sub's product page says:

Overall Outside Diameter6.57"
Overall Depth3.25"
Baffle Cutout Diameter5.62"



Another option I found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/294882948629
Do you think this would this be too thin for clearing the magnet? Or maybe I just stack 2 somehow? 😂


Edit: I ordered the sub, the spacers I posted and a metal 6.5" grill. Hope it works out, $111 for some more bass and minimal modifications to the vehicle seems like a deal.
I highly recommend at least replacing the door speakers with new component speakers as well. This made a dramatic difference in midbass and punch. I think this with the sub will give you what you're looking for. I know what you mean about that fatigue sound I think you're describing. My wife's 23 Mustang premium still sounds that way. It's a big difference in my Maverick. I'm going to do her car in spring.

Also, I don't think the dimensions are correct on the audiopipe spacer. Hard to fit an 8 inch in a hole with a 6 inch min. And the pics don't look 2 inch thick to me. That and just looking at it, the dimensions don't make sense. It matches a 6.5 inch spacer. That's why I was going to "try" it.
 
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Stoutthedog

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It was 1/4 inch weather strip rubber seal from home Depot. I put it inbetween the enclosure and the spacer, and again between the spacer and the sub. It compressed to approximately 1/4 inch in total. And I noticed you removed some of the enclosure. I did not have to do that at all. Is your cut out in the spacer dead center? That's the only other thing I can think that might cause obstruction. It is tight, but the magnet on mine does not contact the enclosure. I have no obstructions. And its about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the seat.
I got the 1/4” foam tape installed and it worked great. Thanks for sharing.
 

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I highly recommend at least replacing the door speakers with new component speakers as well. This made a dramatic difference in midbass and punch. I think this with the sub will give you what you're looking for. I know what you mean about that fatigue sound I think you're describing. My wife's 23 Mustang premium still sounds that way. It's a big difference in my Maverick. I'm going to do her car in spring.

Also, I don't think the dimensions are correct on the audiopipe spacer. Hard to fit an 8 inch in a hole with a 6 inch min. And the pics don't look 2 inch think to me. That and just looking at it, the dimensions don't make sense. It matches a 6.5 inch spacer. That's why I was going to "try" it.
I swapped in the Dayton 6.5" sub with one of the spacers that I linked earlier. It's a bit different because the spacer is sitting on top of the whole thing instead of flush inside the little "box" and I needed to find 4 screws with the same threading but longer (luckily I had 4 that matched pretty closely). It also pushes up against the cushioning of the seat but I think with the grill I ended up with it should be fine. There's also some small gaps where the new spacer doesn't cover the old mounting area completely. I'm not sure how much difference this will make but I might try to fill this in with some moldable putty I got for a different problem with my bed cover.

It's a huge improvement to rounding out the bottom end for some tracks. Not earth shattering like you said but IMO worth doing even just the sub alone for a somewhat easy ~$100 upgrade. I'm going to take it apart again and replace that long harness adapter with one of these short ones. Also I'm already looking at doing the other speakers with the same setup you did :D

Sub box with 6x9 removed:
Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. sub1


Taped up the power harness adapter so it wouldn't move around:
Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. sub2


Mounted with the spacer plate:
Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. sub3


Added grill:
Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. sub4


Unit back in position:
Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. sub5


Spacing with rear seat locked in place:
Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. sub6
 
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uh50

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I swapped in the Dayton 6.5" sub with one of the spacers that I linked earlier. It's a bit different because the spacer is sitting on top of the whole thing instead of flush inside the little "box" and I needed to find 4 screws with the same threading but longer (luckily I had 4 that matched pretty closely). It also pushes up against the cushioning of the seat but I think with the grill I ended up with it should be fine. There's also some small gaps where the new spacer doesn't cover the old mounting area completely. I'm not sure how much difference this will make but I might try to fill this in with some moldable putty I got for a different problem with my bed cover.

It's a huge improvement to rounding out the bottom end for some tracks. Not earth shattering like you said but IMO worth doing even just the sub alone for a somewhat easy ~$100 upgrade. I'm going to take it apart again and replace that long harness adapter with one of these short ones. Also I'm already looking at doing the other speakers with the same setup you did :D


Unit back in position:
 Unit back in position


Spacing with rear seat locked in place:
Nice looking. Good job.
 

colinl

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Nice looking. Good job.
agreed. nothing harmful will come of mashing a grille into the seatback like that, assuming it isn't hitting any metal. if it's just deforming the cloth cover a bit, no big deal.

I think I mentioned previously in this thread, but if you don't have a grille and you have the kind of contact shown in the last pic on a bare sub, the surround is not going to last long. the cloth and the surround will both wear from the contact, and who cares about the cloth seatback, but you're going to ruin the sub.
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