Rolled the dice on aftermarket LED Taillights install on a Lariat...

[Enchalada]

No. There is nothing extra in them to try to fool the computer or anything. You need to change Forscan settings (preferable) or add resistors.

So forscan is a must to used LED brake lights whether is DD or lasfit.. ideally unless you have the resistor option but that gets hotter..
10-4
thanks!

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[A.Bursell]

CANBUS ready means they mimic the load of an oem incandescent bulb. An incandescent bulb cannot "talk" to the computer as you said. The BCM detects a resistance value. If a lower resistance, or an open is detected the BCM signals a malfunction. It's not because the bulbs tell it they are defective. The Ford programming update increased the resistance signature required to "see" a "good" bulb, and LEDs simply no longer meet that spec.

I disagree that's what "canbus ready" means. Vehicles have been using resistance to detect bulb outage long before canbus was ever a thing. If all they meant was that there were resistors built in, that's what they would say. Specifically saying canbus ready means it talks on the canbus and that's what they wanted to imply. Or, maybe it's just a really poor translation - my interactions with them were certainly difficult at best. Either way it's not ok.

 

[Toddman45]

I have a Lariat but no reason to think it's different on other models. Absolutely no hyper flashing or other funny business, it works exactly as it should. The DD's don't have any resistors or anything in them trying to fool a computer or compensate for anything. Make the simple change in Forscan and they just work. They function as if OEM.

Which DD rear bulbs you using?

 

[A.Bursell]

Which DD rear bulbs you using?

I'm using the HP11's. They are brighter than stock but not insanely blinding. If you want the most light possible you can go up to the XP80, but I think these are perfect.

https://www.diodedynamics.com/3156-3157-hp11-tail-light-led-bulbs.html
https://www.diodedynamics.com/3156-3157-hp11-backup-led-bulbs.html

Also using HP11's for front turn signals in my Lariat as well.

https://www.diodedynamics.com/3156-3157-hp11-turn-signal-led-bulbs.html

 

[MCIAD]

So I got my Diode Dynamics HP11 bulbs today and managed to figure out Forscan (at least enough to disable the bulb warning) and all is working fine… except the interior “click” whenever the turn signals are activated. It is still hyper. Not when in 4-way, just left or right. I can live with it, unless there’s a setting to eliminate that as well. I couldn’t find anything that said “do this to make that stop”.

In any case, I’m happy with the outcome. Tailights, high mount brake light, and cargo lights are all now LED.

 

[A.Bursell]

So I got my Diode Dynamics HP11 bulbs today and managed to figure out Forscan (at least enough to disable the bulb warning) and all is working fine… except the interior “click” whenever the turn signals are activated. It is still hyper. Not when in 4-way, just left or right. I can live with it, unless there’s a setting to eliminate that as well. I couldn’t find anything that said “do this to make that stop”.

In any case, I’m happy with the outcome. Tailights, high mount brake light, and cargo lights are all now LED.

There are only two settings you need to change, you likely missed one or both:

Module	Parameter	Original	New	Description
BdyCM Module	Front Bulb Turn Outage	Enabled	Disabled	Disable fast-blink warning indicator due to using LED front turn signal bulbs
BdyCM Module	Rear Stop Bulb Outage	Enabled	Disabled	Disable fast-blink warning indicator due to using LED rear turn signal / brake bulbs

With these two settings changed it should not hyperflash.

 

[Jetlat7878$]

Nevermind - these lights are going back and I am going to start all over. Trying the LASFIT T3's, which I know will most likely hyperflash, but there's a huge body of evidence that ForScan will fix that issue. I'm just hoping that I can use them in auto.

Probably should have just gone this route to begin with...

Hey, been there done that. The only way to get the Lariat (mine is a 2024) to work with no problems is to get "red" LEFDS for the taillight and brake lights using resistors for the front and rear lights. You will need two for each rear lights and one each for the front turn signals. I converted all stock bulbs to LEDs except the headlights. Don't use clear bulbs for the lights. Use the color of the lens, except the front turn signals because the lens are clear . Red for the rear gives much better results. Yellow for the running lights .

 

[A.Bursell]

Hey, been there done that. The only way to get the Lariat (mine is a 2024) to work with no problems is to get "red" LEFDS for the taillight and brake lights using resistors for the front and rear lights. You will need two for each rear lights and one each for the front turn signals. I converted all stock bulbs to LEDs except the headlights. Don't use clear bulbs for the lights. Use the color of the lens, except the front turn signals because the lens are clear . Red for the rear gives much better results. Yellow for the running lights .

As mentioned, this is not the *only* way. Forscan would be the alternative and I think preferable way. Completely reversible without altering the wiring of the truck.

 

[MCIAD]

There are only two settings you need to change, you likely missed one or both:

Module	Parameter	Original	New	Description
BdyCM Module	Front Bulb Turn Outage	Enabled	Disabled	Disable fast-blink warning indicator due to using LED front turn signal bulbs
BdyCM Module	Rear Stop Bulb Outage	Enabled	Disabled	Disable fast-blink warning indicator due to using LED rear turn signal / brake bulbs

With these two settings changed it should not hyperflash.

It was the first one - never thought to worry about the front bulbs. Disabled that as well and everything is "normal" now. I truly appreciate your help - the HP11's are plenty bright.

 

[Jetlat7878$]

As mentioned, this is not the *only* way. Forscan would be the alternative and I think preferable way. Completely reversible without altering the wiring of the truck.

Not everyone can afford the fore scan system and accessories

 

[A.Bursell]

Not everyone can afford the fore scan system and accessories

Other than some type of laptop, it's a $40 cable and free software. Pretty much any laptop made in the last 10 years would work. really not that costly. I would guess 6 resistors probably cost more?

 

[MCIAD]

I used a 10-year-old Surface Pro 3 I've had sitting around gathering dust and it worked perfectly, and a cable off Amazon for about $35.

 

[SloopJB]

So I got my Diode Dynamics HP11 bulbs today and managed to figure out Forscan (at least enough to disable the bulb warning) and all is working fine… except the interior “click” whenever the turn signals are activated. It is still hyper. Not when in 4-way, just left or right. I can live with it, unless there’s a setting to eliminate that as well. I couldn’t find anything that said “do this to make that stop”.

In any case, I’m happy with the outcome. Tailights, high mount brake light, and cargo lights are all now LED.

I bought the HP11 and had to cut 2 tabs off the side of the base. Installed them, no light. Turned 180 and still no light. Slightly twisted the lamp and it lit as long as I maintained some pressure. Tried to slightly adjust terminal connector to no avail. Any suggestions before I send them back. I put my Lasfits back in, works well. I am trying to find a good replacement as Lasfits don’t sell them any more

 

[A.Bursell]

I bought the HP11 and had to cut 2 tabs off the side of the base. Installed them, no light. Turned 180 and still no light. Slightly twisted the lamp and it lit as long as I maintained some pressure. Tried to slightly adjust terminal connector to no avail. Any suggestions before I send them back. I put my Lasfits back in, works well. I am trying to find a good replacement as Lasfits don’t sell them any more

First mention of this. Wonder if you didn't cut enough of the tabs off? I actually used a Dremel and sanding drum on mine so they are perfectly smooth. I doubt it's a problem with the bulbs themselves, especially if both are acting the same. Possibly the Last bulbs caused the contacts to spread? Maybe some pics would help.

 

[SloopJB]

First mention of this. Wonder if you didn't cut enough of the tabs off? I actually used a Dremel and sanding drum on mine so they are perfectly smooth. I doubt it's a problem with the bulbs themselves, especially if both are acting the same. Possibly the Last bulbs caused the contacts to spread? Maybe some pics would help.

Thanks, I will look into this advice. I am surprised that the bulbs are actually made in China and that they were recommended for the Maverick without any mention of of the required modifications to the bulb. At least I couldn’t find any disclaimer.

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