Right Rear window stuck down? Quick Fix!

[februaryfour]

Yikes... so Ford apparently may not honor the warranty if this is done... at least, that's the mechanic's explanation for why he didn't do it

... I'm still going to do it, but my threshold for "bail if stumped" has just been lowered a lot.

Sponsored

 

[0me0mi]

I would like to address this growing problem with a quick emergency fix to get your window up!

This specific fix is for the RIGHT REAR window that will not go up. This applies to the XL and XLT models without auto down/up feature on the passenger windows (This will work for auto down on the driver's window only). Please read this entire post carefully before proceeding. I am trying to provide a service for those who have this issue and can't get to the dealer right away, i will not be liable for any damages that may occur. Use common sense and please follow the directions.

A bit about me : I am an ASE certified tech with 20 years experience. I own a '23 Maverick XL with 7K miles and this recently happened to me.

Problem: You roll your right rear window down and it either: went down all the way on it's own after touching the button OR you rolled it down and now won't go back up, particularly from the driver's switch.

From everything that I've read lately, the common problem is in the driver's window switch.


If you have an XL or XLT WITHOUT auto up/down feature on your PASSENGER windows-

Solution: jump the wires at the passenger rear switch.

You will need a plastic pry tool, and two 3" jumper wires (preferably 14 gauge)

First remove the RIGHT REAR window switch - you will need a plastic pry tool. I don't recommend any metal tools as it will indent the plastic however in a pinch it works as long as you're careful. Find the seam of the switch assembly that faces the rear of the vehicle

lift the back end up then slide rearward. The clip is very snug so it may take a bit of effort

notice the blue clip and black tongue to get an idea how it's held down (left side pictured)

unplug the green connector by pressing the tab with your thumb then pull outward

PLEASE READ THIS NEXT STEP CAREFULLY!!

Count the number of wires at the connector! if its 8, then proceed to the next step, if there are only 4, skip over to the auto down section.

MAKE SURE THE IGNITION KEY IS IN THE OFF POSITION! DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!

Identify the LARGER 4 wires. They will be in a row and in the following colors:
Yellow/Orange = 12v key on battery
Violet/White = window motor (positive up, negative down)
Gray = window motor (negative up, positive down)
Black/white = ground/negative

Those four wires are significantly larger than the other four. DO NOT use the smaller four wires. These colors only apply to the RIGHT REAR window.

Jump the Yellow/Orange to the Violet/white, and jump the Gray to the Black/White

Use the terminal side, I found it's easiest that way.

I do not recommend paper clips but if you are in a pinch, make sure they do NOT touch

Once you have made the connection, go to the driver's seat, LEAVE THE DRIVER DOOR OPEN, then turn forward the key (do not start), the window should go up. Once it's fully up, shut the vehicle down.

Undo the wires. DO NOT plug in your window switch, leave it off OR reinstall it WITHOUT plugging it in. DONE!

In the event that this procedure did NOT work, check power with a test light at the yellow/orange wire with the ignition key ON. If no power is present with the key on, further diagnosis will be necessary that I will not cover on this post.



AUTO DOWN/UP GUYS!

Unfortunately after testing the "quick fix" which was disconnecting the master switch, it appears that it will not work. The auto down/up system uses two door modules that are all interconnected through data lines, versus the auto down driver only system which is more like an older vehicle and is directly wired to the window motors. These modules are what control the operation of the windows and this was done to prevent "crushing" with the auto up function. I will look into another way around this.

I will update this once I figure out a solution for you guys.

If you want to roll the dice and replace the master switch if your Mav is out of warranty, i will leave the instructions up on how to remove the master switch.

Make sure ignition switch is OFF

Pry up and remove the Driver's window switch by inserting the pry tool at the seam facing rearward

it will take some effort as the clips are tight. Lift the backside then slide rearward.

Once removed, unplug the main connectors and remove the switch.

the switch may not come with a bezel, there are small tabs along the body of the switch panel itself you will need to pry to get the switch out of the bezel.

Please comment with your model and window type (Auto down driver's only OR Auto down/up all windows) if this issue has happened to you and if you had it fixed, what the ultimate solution was. I hope this all helps!!

Thank you for posting the exact steps needed. 2022 XL with auto down on driver only. I live in Tri Cities, WA but bought it in Hermiston, OR in Jan this year with about 7 miles on it (now approx 7300). The three closest dealers say they won't get me in just to look at it (not repair) until the between the end of Sept to the end of Oct, and none would roll it up.

I'm concerned about them voiding my warranty if I do this, and I haven't gotten any real answer about that (if you know...). However, I wonder if they'll be footing the bill for any further damage done under that warranty since they refused to get the window up, for example if it rains, which is called for tonight or tomorrow. I can't just take off work at a whim, but will have to keep on them to get somewhere here. I'll have a go at talking to them in person this weekend.

 

[Cactuspicious]

Yikes... so Ford apparently may not honor the warranty if this is done... at least, that's the mechanic's explanation for why he didn't do it

... I'm still going to do it, but my threshold for "bail if stumped" has just been lowered a lot.

Thank you for posting the exact steps needed.

I'm concerned about them voiding my warranty if I do this, and I haven't gotten any real answer about that (if you know...). However, I wonder if they'll be footing the bill for any further damage done under that warranty since they refused to get the window up, for example if it rains, which is called for tonight or tomorrow. I can't just take off work at a whim, but will have to keep on them to get somewhere here. I'll have a go at talking to them in person this weekend.

Valid concerns! I am still under warranty as well. I would suggest plugging the switch back in just before you get to the dealer. As long as you're careful and don't mark up the switch bezel, you should be fine. This isn't making any modifications to the switch or wiring which could void your warranty.

I've looked into the wiring for auto down/up for all windows and that requires removing the front passenger door panel, which could void the warranty (potentially)

 

[februaryfour]

I wonder if they'll be footing the bill for any further damage done under that warranty since they refused to get the window up, for example if it rains, which is called for tonight or tomorrow.

My dealer at least taped up my window. Driving it home with that taped up window was interesting, but at least I didn't have any highway between me and them.

 

[barxlt]

This just happened to my XLT . What BS Ford Knows about this its the same rear passenger window .I don't even have 8,000 miles on the truck and its a 2023. This should be a recall item .

 

[barxlt]

I just had my rear passenger window that was stuck down fixed on my 23 XLT 7,900 miles. It was exactly what was discussed here. When I talked to the service manager at the dealer he said he had not had any Mavericks with this problem. I told him I read it was 99% the master drivers switch . After 2 hours I drove out with a new master switch and the blinker warning recall done . The dealers should refer to this site and save themself some time.

 

[belmor]

I can't thank you enough for this write up, it saved my behind. I live on an island hours from the nearest dealer and that is when you can get an appointment. Happened to my 22' XLT lux tonight (auto-down on driver's window only). It was 8 PM and about to rain. I got it back up in about 15min with your instructions.

I guess I have to make an appointment now (warranty goes out in October) but i've put off taking it to the dealer for anything because I need the truck and they will have it for weeks for the 5+ recalls it has open.

Thanks again!

 

[JayBoegs]

Same thing happened to us Saturday. Read passenger window went down and won't go back up. 2023 XLT Hybrid Lux Package. First issue we've had with the truck. (Outside of the 6 recalls we haven't had done) Still love the Maverick. Hate that my dealer can't even schedule us until July 30th! 2 months from now. USA! USA!

 

[Ford Motor Company]

Same thing happened to us Saturday. Read passenger window went down and won't go back up. 2023 XLT Hybrid Lux Package. First issue we've had with the truck. (Outside of the 6 recalls we haven't had done) Still love the Maverick. Hate that my dealer can't even schedule us until July 30th! 2 months from now. USA! USA!

Hi there! Will you send us a message with your VIN and your local Ford dealer? I can look into things on my end.

 

[ShadowBlack XL440]

I would like to address this growing problem with a quick emergency fix to get your window up!

This specific fix is for the RIGHT REAR window that will not go up. This applies to the XL and XLT models without auto down/up feature on the passenger windows (This will work for auto down on the driver's window only). Please read this entire post carefully before proceeding. I am trying to provide a service for those who have this issue and can't get to the dealer right away, i will not be liable for any damages that may occur. Use common sense and please follow the directions.

A bit about me : I am an ASE certified tech with 20 years experience. I own a '23 Maverick XL with 7K miles and this recently happened to me.

Problem: You roll your right rear window down and it either: went down all the way on it's own after touching the button OR you rolled it down and now won't go back up, particularly from the driver's switch.

From everything that I've read lately, the common problem is in the driver's window switch.


If you have an XL or XLT WITHOUT auto up/down feature on your PASSENGER windows-

Solution: jump the wires at the passenger rear switch.

You will need a plastic pry tool, and two 3" jumper wires (preferably 14 gauge)

First remove the RIGHT REAR window switch - you will need a plastic pry tool. I don't recommend any metal tools as it will indent the plastic however in a pinch it works as long as you're careful. Find the seam of the switch assembly that faces the rear of the vehicle

lift the back end up then slide rearward. The clip is very snug so it may take a bit of effort

notice the blue clip and black tongue to get an idea how it's held down (left side pictured)

unplug the green connector by pressing the tab with your thumb then pull outward

PLEASE READ THIS NEXT STEP CAREFULLY!!

Count the number of wires at the connector! if its 8, then proceed to the next step, if there are only 4, skip over to the auto down section.

MAKE SURE THE IGNITION KEY IS IN THE OFF POSITION! DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!

Identify the LARGER 4 wires. They will be in a row and in the following colors:
Yellow/Orange = 12v key on battery
Violet/White = window motor (positive up, negative down)
Gray = window motor (negative up, positive down)
Black/white = ground/negative

Those four wires are significantly larger than the other four. DO NOT use the smaller four wires. These colors only apply to the RIGHT REAR window.

Jump the Yellow/Orange to the Violet/white, and jump the Gray to the Black/White

Use the terminal side, I found it's easiest that way.

I do not recommend paper clips but if you are in a pinch, make sure they do NOT touch

Once you have made the connection, go to the driver's seat, LEAVE THE DRIVER DOOR OPEN, then turn forward the key (do not start), the window should go up. Once it's fully up, shut the vehicle down.

Undo the wires. DO NOT plug in your window switch, leave it off OR reinstall it WITHOUT plugging it in. DONE!

In the event that this procedure did NOT work, check power with a test light at the yellow/orange wire with the ignition key ON. If no power is present with the key on, further diagnosis will be necessary that I will not cover on this post.



AUTO DOWN/UP GUYS!

Unfortunately after testing the "quick fix" which was disconnecting the master switch, it appears that it will not work. The auto down/up system uses two door modules that are all interconnected through data lines, versus the auto down driver only system which is more like an older vehicle and is directly wired to the window motors. These modules are what control the operation of the windows and this was done to prevent "crushing" with the auto up function. I will look into another way around this.

I will update this once I figure out a solution for you guys.

If you want to roll the dice and replace the master switch if your Mav is out of warranty, i will leave the instructions up on how to remove the master switch.

Make sure ignition switch is OFF

Pry up and remove the Driver's window switch by inserting the pry tool at the seam facing rearward

it will take some effort as the clips are tight. Lift the backside then slide rearward.

Once removed, unplug the main connectors and remove the switch.

the switch may not come with a bezel, there are small tabs along the body of the switch panel itself you will need to pry to get the switch out of the bezel.

Please comment with your model and window type (Auto down driver's only OR Auto down/up all windows) if this issue has happened to you and if you had it fixed, what the ultimate solution was. I hope this all helps!!

I wish I had known this back in January, my 2022 XL had this happen at 35K miles so it was still covered under warranty. I was happy that the dealer was able to get me in for repair the next day but I had a very cold ride home and to the dealer the next morning. It was the master window switch in the drivers door that was replaced. One question on your process, if it is a bad master switch why not jump the wires there to bypass the bad switch and not the good door switch? Seems like you would be trying to override the down command from the master switch.

 

[JayBoegs]

Hi there! Will you send us a message with your VIN and your local Ford dealer? I can look into things on my end.

sent the info in a separate message

 

[MaverickChris]

My rear passenger window is stuck all the way down and we're expecting rain all week! My local dealership says they can't get to it this week and made an appointment for next week. Would be nice if they had a way to raise the window manually until they can actually fix it. I'm not happy driving around with plastic and tape on a truck with only 7,480 miles on the odometer! I may try to attempt the quick fix. Thanks for the great write up!

 

[Ford Motor Company]

My rear passenger window is stuck all the way down and we're expecting rain all week! My local dealership says they can't get to it this week and made an appointment for next week. Would be nice if they had a way to raise the window manually until they can actually fix it. I'm not happy driving around with plastic and tape on a truck with only 7,480 miles on the odometer! I may try to attempt the quick fix. Thanks for the great write up!

Hi there! Will you send us a message with your VIN and your local Ford dealer? I can look into things on my end.

 

[Scupking]

This just happened to my wife's 2023 Bronco Sport today... Right rear passenger window stuck down... Why isn't there a recall on Mavericks and Bronco Sports for this issue. I'm guessing this probably also impacts Escapes.

 

[barxlt]

This just happened to my wife's 2023 Bronco Sport today... Right rear passenger window stuck down... Why isn't there a recall on Mavericks and Bronco Sports for this issue. I'm guessing this probably also impacts Escapes.

It should have a recall. I just hope the new master switch installed in my Maverick is not of the same faulty batch. Lucky for me no rain was in the forecast .

Sponsored