Trailer Wiring Recall (23C04) - Quick Fix

[angry_mechanic]

As a retired Ford Dealership service advisor (used to be a tech)(that's a 1957 Chevy with a 454ci dual carb tunnel ram with front straight axle in my profile pic) I will say there are techs I wouldn't want touch any of my vehicles. However, there are more good ones than bad ones. It's the PROCESS of getting the RIGHT tech to do the needed repair that is the problem. The dealership I worked at targeted techs into a more specialized category, meaning if a vehicle had a drivability issue then a tech with more drivability training/skills was scheduled to work on that vehicle. Separate techs did transmission, steering/suspension/handling and electronic/computer/wiring issues. Most other dealerships just give the next tech available the next job meaning the tech may have little skill/experience/knowledge for the diagnosis (usually the most important part of the repair) and repair.
That's the problem. Doctors specialize in a field for a reason. Even Attorneys specialize in a field. It was very difficult to schedule work at the dealership I worked at because we had to "guess" to a point what the problem was before even having checked it out to schedule to a particular tech. Other dealerships just give the repair to the next "available" tech, which is the way most do it.
The "process" is greatly flawed but to do it otherwise really is more difficult, especially if several issues need addressed on one vehicle.
I just hope everyone will realize there is a shortage of skilled techs in almost every industry. Vehicle repair has gotten much harder with a tech being a plumber, electrician, computer tech and more all when working in tight confined places, hot (think of opening a hood in 100+ degree weather) and having to work in many disgusting conditions that people bring vehicles in (trash/diapers left in cars).
Most techs do try to do a good job but many times their hands are tied by having improper training for the job they are given, not to mention a lot of times it is more of an engineering/design/part problem they are having to try to remedy.
Many times the problem we all have getting our vehicles repaired (quickly and correctly) is not a tech issue, it's a dealership or manufacturing or process issue. I'm not making excuses (remember I first said there were techs I did not want to work on my vehicle) but hoping some will have patience when having to deal with dealerships. Sales is a whole other story!

This was sort of my initial guess as well. Thanks for confirming for us. I know there are some good ones somewhere, but they're harder to find now. The manufacturers are to blame with the dumb problems that need fixed, and then the dealers not utilizing people correctly (although like you said it is difficult to manage) is probably the next biggest problem I have seen as well. Vehicles are becoming more complicated to work on, you're right about that. I still feel that pride in your work could also help... some of the stuff I've seen boils down to that I feel like. Thanks again for your insight!

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[Darnon]

That said, the DRL circuit would be where I'd probably have gone first. That taps off one of the three wires coming out the headlight connector. Very easy to reach. Depends on if you want it on always or just during the day...

Lariats are a different case. They utilize the accent lighting on the top of the headlights for DRL and the BCM or the headlight's internal module monitors either the current or resistance of their circuit. As a result if you tap directly into them to power additional lights it detects it as a fault and disables the circuit.

 

[angry_mechanic]

Lariats are a different case. They utilize the accent lighting on the top of the headlights for DRL and the BCM or the headlight's internal module monitors either the current or resistance of their circuit. As a result if you tap directly into them to power additional lights it detects it as a fault and disables the circuit.

Ah gotcha. So tap into the accents then?

 

[Darnon]

Ah gotcha. So tap into the accents then?

No. As mentioned, the controlling module sees that extra load as a fault and will disable the accent lighting (and whatever is attached to them) after a few cycles. So it needs to be powered off some other key-on power source.

I've only seen one person get away with tapping into the Lariat accent lights but they were using switchback lights that had a control box with a separate power feed so probably didn't have the extra draw that'd trigger the overcurrent disable.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/how-to-wire-switchbacks-on-lariat-drl.13388/

 

[angry_mechanic]

No. As mentioned, the controlling module sees that extra load as a fault and will disable the accent lighting (and whatever is attached to them) after a few cycles. So it needs to be powered off some other key-on power source.

I've only seen one person get away with tapping into the Lariat accent lights but they were using switchback lights that had a control box with a separate power feed so probably didn't have the extra draw that'd trigger the overcurrent disable.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/how-to-wire-switchbacks-on-lariat-drl.13388/

Oh was it? I hadn't gone back to look at that post for a bit. What's the amp draw on these accent lights? This thing isn't a factory installed option?

 

[gp1200x]

Supposedly EcoBoosts can fuse tap one of the PCM Micro2 fuses in the underhood junction box (fuses 11-14, I believe). Although on the Hybrid I found those PCM fuses stay powered after key off so I used Fuse 34 for the front camera/CP360. Also in my experience I had to leave the fuse cover off with a fuse tap in there, but it's mostly superfluous.

Great....I'll look into those positions. I just wanted an led strip powered on whenever the truck was running using a switched power connection without touching any existing light circuits on the vehicle. I didn't want any warrany denial issues in case I run into DRL or tailight problems during the warranty period which some people are running into.

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