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Request - Disable / Reconfigure BMS

tysonbisme

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To whomever does the good forscan stuff for all of us -

I'd like a way to keep my charging voltage up and stable. Ranging from low 12v up to mid 14v+ isn't sitting well with my audio amplifiers or system... at all.

I've already changed the setting for "state of charge" to 95%. It still sits at mid 13v at idle. Every other vehicle I've owned had a way to pin the charge voltage in the mid 14s.

I don't care, really, that the battery "won't last 10 years like that". I'd rather replace it every 3 years charging at 14+v than have to put a battery tender on a brand new truck. At 175 amps, the alternator is more than big enough for what I have running in it. It's not a wiring issue, etc.

Not sure if it is possible, but it's worth a shot.

Thank you!
-tysonbisme
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Packer Bill

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Do you an EFB or AGM battery?
 

Master Blaster

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I'd like a way to keep my charging voltage up and stable. Ranging from low 12v up to mid 14v+ isn't sitting well with my audio amplifiers or system... at all.
That's an odd way of stating that you miswired your super-piggy amps and actually need welding cables to feed them. They should work well at 10V with correct cabling.
 
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tysonbisme

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That's an odd way of stating that you miswired your super-piggy amps and actually need welding cables to feed them. They should work well at 10V with correct cabling.
All audison... i've done all of my cars over the past 5+ years with zero issue.

It's not a wiring issue. This is how the BMS operates.

10v wouldn't even run a vehicle, much less an audio amplifier. Unless you like to get less than half the power it's rated at... lol
 

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rallyshark

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So what is the actual problem you're having with your audio? I'm running Audison with separate DSP, and have had zero issues. Granted, I have a hybrid, but... I'd bet you more than likely have a signal input issue, rather than a voltage issue. I'm just guessing though, since we don't know what the issue is.
 
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tysonbisme

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So what is the actual problem you're having with your audio? I'm running Audison with separate DSP, and have had zero issues. Granted, I have a hybrid, but... I'd bet you more than likely have a signal input issue, rather than a voltage issue. I'm just guessing though, since we don't know what the issue is.
I don't know why there's people reading into the "audio" thing. My request is to have stable charging voltage. Audio or not. It just so happens that audio equipment prefers an input voltage that doesn't fluctuate 2 and a half volts, lol

Hybrids are different - you likely read a typical 14.4-14.8v. The EBs range from like 12.4v to 14.7.

However, to entertain your statement -

No signal input issue, this is handled by a direct speedwire run from the outputs of the OEM radio into speaker-level on an AP F8.9 bit.
 

rallyshark

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We're reading into the audio thing, because you stated the voltage fluctuation is causing audio problems. I just wanted to know what audio problem you're having, for possible future reference or maybe having to useful insight that may help you. Again, just trying to help.... low info in = low info out.
 
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tysonbisme

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We're reading into the audio thing, because you stated the voltage fluctuation is causing audio problems. I just wanted to know what audio problem you're having, for possible future reference or maybe having to useful insight that may help you. Again, just trying to help.... low info in = low info out.
The problem is that amplifiers do not last long when voltage fluctuates 2 and a half volts. Not only do they get hot, but when you're driving them as hard as you can (1 ohm impedance on a AP F1D), low voltage causes onboard fuses to blow, more heat at the amps than necessary, etc.

I may try unplugging the BMS to see if I can get a higher stable charging voltage, at the expensive of the battery / alternator life. I've never had a vehicle charge this way, so it's definitely a bit odd.

It seems that other forum users have also been able to increase voltage by manipulating the SoC target in Forscan.
 

BAScott62

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Not an audio guy but I kind of remember Ohm's Law. How is low voltage popping fuses?
 
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tysonbisme

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Not an audio guy but I kind of remember Ohm's Law. How is low voltage popping fuses?
lower volts = more amps drawn to hit power targets. more amps = higher fuse amperage needed, or they will blow.

This amp in particular is rated for 1kw at 1 ohm, at 14.4v, and is fused for 60a onboard. Those were what blew, to protect the board internally from the higher-than-expected amp draw.

60 x 14.4v = 864w
60 x 12.5v = 750w

I imagine that it drew more than it's rated for, despite the final impedance being 1.3 ohm at the terminal cup, which is 1/2 of an ohm higher than it's rated down to.

I have more prodding to do with this. My first place to start was looking for a way to get higher consistent voltage, instead of it ranging from the low 12s to the mid 14s.
 

Phimosis

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I don't know why there's people reading into the "audio" thing. My request is to have stable charging voltage. Audio or not. It just so happens that audio equipment prefers an input voltage that doesn't fluctuate 2 and a half volts, lol
What you’re saying is that you own a 12 volt piece of audio equipment that won’t run on 12 volts and if you feed it 12 volts it overheats, blows fuses and shuts down. I would say that is an audio thing. Maybe send the equipment back to the manufacturer and ask for your money back since it can’t run on 12 volts?
 

Mdavis

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Not an audio guy but I kind of remember Ohm's Law. How is low voltage popping fuses?
Amps x volts = watts. Ohms law. So lower voltage in would require higher amperage out to achieve to same wattage out. (volume).
 
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tysonbisme

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Amps x volts = watts. Ohms law. So lower voltage in would require higher amperage out to achieve to same wattage out. (volume).
^^ bingo
 

BAScott62

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Gotcha. I was thinking of Voltage as the constraining factor; as it's capped it would not allow amperage or watts to increase.
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