I see this word a lot in these forums. "regret".
What does that actually mean? Don't you know what you're buying? I'd certainly hope so if you're willing to drop 40k after tax, title, and license on a highly trimmed, basic truck.
This is a rhetorical comment. There is no answer - some will...
It's a known fact that you'll never get rated MPG on the "break in" mileage... or even (in my experience) until after at least the first oil change. Also, mountainous terrain = low mpg, driving heavy footed = low mpg, etc. Winter = lower mpg, there's tons of factors here.
I drive 150 miles a...
A 2008 Scion xB. Had a 2021 Hyundai Accent before I got the xB, a 2020 WRX before that, and a 2016 Accent before that.
I should've never sold the xB. It had 2 Hi Q 12" woofers on almost 5,000W RMS. A hoot to drive around in, and manual too.
Those are the steepest vehicle ramps ive probably ever seen... lol
Can you even get a sedan on them? Get you these
https://www.homedepot.com/p/FloTool-Durable-RhinoRamps-Set-of-2-11909MI/205152558
works fine, just don't lower it
@colinl & @Bill Quattlebaum
I've had an autostop eliminator installed since I purchased the truck. I suppose I can sell it if it doesn't function without the BMS, lol
It's been probably 3 weeks now with no ill effects. I imagine the battery here will last longer than one using the stock...
Quick follow up for any whom are interested -
Removing the BMS sensor (current shunt + wire) altogether and replacing for a solid 2 AWG copper ground has resulted in a stable 13.8-14.0v (when I measured) at all times. The only message on the dash is to "Service Charging System Soon" at startup...
^^ depending on the mods. If you decided to go with ShantyTownT00nz and used 2 water bottles as your catch can kit, a spectre filter for the intake and home-refined e85 for fuel... you may not have a warranty. lol
But yes - it would show blue if its going out the seals / being burned...
If you can, I'd get a brand new motorcraft filter (fl910s) and 6 qt of valvoline full synthetic, 5w30.
Do the change yourself (not sure of your abilities), so that you can 100% verify that the right amount of oil is in the vehicle. Then, diagnose from there.
I had an issue like this on a 2016...
Nowhere did I say I would be avoiding / ignoring the advice. It was my next step regardless of the confirmation I got from everyone here.
It got out of hand as soon as everyone brought the system into it.
The point of this thread is to request a way to go to conventional charging without CEL...
There are no low-level inputs unless you convert the hi level from the speaker leads to low level using something like a lc7i. Which I am not doing.
There are countless threads all over audio forums which indicate that grounding at the battery helps mitigate noise, such as alt whine, etc.
But...
Anyone wanna buy a 12-15ft run of 2 AWG OFC welding wire? :)
If my issue is actually related to charging voltage, it is 100% due to the way the BMS is handling charging. It is well known that, stock, these things range from the low 12v range all the way up to 15+, seemingly whenever they want...
It's not really a mess... lol
It is grounded... to the battery up front. If it wasn't grounded - I wouldn't have power running thru the amps. My Thought was to simply an an additional, shorter ground, so that in case that was an actual issue - it would be rectified thru that.
It's a very common practice in car audio and has been for many years. It helps reduce noise in the output signals, etc. and is necessary when running additional batteries as well.
It's a long, drawn out debate that plagues audio builders all over. You can't ground thousands of watts / hundreds...