Replacing the Hybrid's OEM 12v. Battery

[Builder]

When you say Installation and Programming, was that just the BMS Reset or did they actually change settings in Programming? Does anyone know exactly where to go in Forescan and what to change when an AGM Battery is installed, or just leave it alone?

The Mavs typically came with the AGM already set in the 12v battery programming regardless of whether the 12v was a flooded or AGM battery. This suggests that an AGM should have been installed all along as an OEM beginning with the ‘22 model year.

Sponsored

 

[Mikes22Mav]

The Mavs typically came with the AGM already set in the 12v battery programming regardless of whether the 12v was a flooded or AGM battery. This suggests that an AGM should have been installed all along as an OEM beginning with the ‘22 model year.

That's exactly what I think!
If the programming is already set for AGM, maybe that's why we are all having problems in the first place with the flooded battery.

And the funny thing is that my reputable dealer replaced my battery 4 times in 3 years and said they could not put an AGM battery in my truck. They didn't recommend it and said it might cause electrical issues. REALLY? Based on their retail charges the 4 flooded MotorCrap batteries they installed would have been close to $1900.00 if we had to pay it. Warranty is OVER on batteries, so they are hoping this problem is over soon, I imagine. They are now making $400.00 each time time they put the same Crap Battery in there again.

Now 2025 Mav's have an AGM battery in them and my dealer doesn't know?

Did FORD Cheapo Out and not put AGM's in, in the first place for probably an extra $50.00 cost?
And I can't imagine that all of the Ford Techs don't know about this issue!

 

[HeyBales]

When you say Installation and Programming, was that just the BMS Reset or did they actually change settings in Programming? Does anyone know exactly where to go in Forescan and what to change when an AGM Battery is installed, or just leave it alone?

Post 170.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...he-hybrids-oem-12v-battery.57544/post-1247835

If those settings are actually used on pre-25MY - then program them all.
If they aren't used - it won't matter.

But 25MY manual is different on battery spec page than prior years.

 

[jono]

When I clicked on the link it said will not fit the 2023 Hybrid XLT. Not sure why since I thought all Hybrid’s were the same in that regard.

Read the entire post. He explains why.

 

[opentext]

Alexander Ford here in Yuma did good. They replaced the battery and reprogrammed everything and no charge.

 

[Dad]

I have a 2022 Maverick XLT Hybrid and I had to have my battery replaced already and now my second battery is dying (keeps going into sleep mode again). The dealer said they will replace the battery and reset the battery management system for $425.

After reading this thread, I've decided I'm going to replace it myself with the battery mentioned in the original post. Thanks everyone for your help!!

That's terrific! This is really the whole point of the MTC; a community of owners and Maverick enthusiasts helping one another. Feel free to ask any questions regarding your install.

 

[Mikes22Mav]

Read the entire post. He explains why.

Just to help a bit of info to help more, the size is perfect and will fit and says 570cca, which really doesn't matter in a Hybrid.
The real reason is because AGM is not OEM in our years 2022-2024.

Love all of you on MTC!
I probably would have sold mine by now, if not for everyone's help.

 

[vsspam]

I have a 2022 Maverick XL hybrid which refused to start after using the emergency lights for 10 minutes with the engine turned off (lights and radio did not work). I concluded the original 12v OEM battery needed to be replaced (3 1/2 years old, measured only 5 v after trickle charging overnight), which led me to this thread. Here are my comments:

I ordered the UPLUS 140R AGM battery referenced above (Amazon, $139). I ordered a magnetic socket and drive extension, but when I could not find my magnetic pick up tool, I ended up pulling up the 3 plastic cover pieces around the battery. While it may be possible to replace the battery with the cover pieces in place, I cannot imagine the additional level of difficulty it would add.

As it was, when I tried to remove the positive battery terminal, the top nut on the post screw (which held down the battery post), was locked on so badly that I ended up deforming the battery post U-leg lugs to pull out the terminal sideways from the battery top positive post. I never did get the nut off, but ended sliding it back on and using a wrench to close the leg lugs around the screw post.

Some additional notes:

This Youtube video post was helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=replace+ford+maverick+12v+battery

1. One of my neighbors has a jump start battery pack, but that did NOT work on the Maverick (using under hood terminal connections). It was jump started the old fashioned way with my wife's car battery, by running her car for about 5 minutes with the jump cable in place. Remember never to try to jump start another car with the Maverick battery system.
2. As someone else mentioned, the hardest cover piece to remove was the second largest piece, which had to be bent around the metal seat support and the first side moulding cover piece (loosened but not removed). I ended up scratching this piece by the metal seat support (either taking it out or putting it back in).
3. I felt the terminal hold-down screw/nut was due to cheaper metal material being used by Ford, and may need to be replaced the next time the 12 v battery is replaced again.
4. I added post lug washers (with di-electric grease), but was concerned as the post screw had a base that rested atop the washer, making the screw slightly un-level. (The original OEM battery did not have these washers and grease).
5. The UPLUS battery can be returned but the seller would charge a 50% return fee (not free). Also there was several negative comments about the seller not responding to warranty issues (3 year warranty may be questionable?).
6. The UPLUS battery came with a small plastic plug that I fit into the positive side vent hole (as the negative side vent hole has an outside hose connection). There are NO instructions in the manual on what to do with it nor about whether this was proper, and no comment in any of the videos I watched on whether this was right for this battery and the Maverick.
7. It took me 4 hours to replace the battery (tried before Sunday church service and had to return to finish) due to me not being mechanically included and spending much of the time searching this thread and online videos about what to do with the vent plug. Next time, if the dealer charges around $100 for the labor to replace a user supplied battery, I would pay them to do it (I would guess that being experienced pros, they would replace the battery without removing all the cover pieces). I do not think Walmart would replace this battery for free with the purchase of one of their batteries.
8. After the battery was replaced, I did not have to reset the BMS or even my clock time settings. I have had several recalls that updated the truck software.
9. I had noticed that when I opened the truck door at night, the inside cabin overhead lights did not come on (it did before). After the battery was replaced, the lights worked again. This may be a good way to warn an owner of an upcoming necessary battery replacement.

Hope this helps someone.

 

[skinnyboy]

Sorry it wasn't a smooth job!

Would not want to have anyone dissuaded from swapping out the battery themselves though. Takes less time than driving to our dealer.

The nuts on the battery post attachments don't have to be removed, just loosened a little. (I pull the neg. whenever we park at the airport-20 seconds.)

The hold down is buried way down. I use a long 10mm T handle with a magnet stuck near the socket to hold the bolt until it is started, but a long extension works as well. Much easier than removing the plastic panels (I imagine).

The batteries I have seen of this type have vents on each end for different applications. Plug the unneeded one with the supplied plug (positive side in this case).

Best to fully charge the new battery before install and reset the BMS.

Cheers.

 

[NedF]

...It took me 4 hours to replace the battery...

I was able to do it in about 30 minutes with a tiny bit of difficulty. I did not remove the plastic base around the battery, but I used an expandable magnetic pen like instrument to pull out the loosened nut and bracket and reposition the metal bracket after the swap. I also used tiny piece of thin cardboard as a wedge to hold the nut into the socket (instead of a magnetic socket). finally, I picked up the piece of cardboard with one of those flexible 4 finger grabbers to keep things tidy.

Swapping the battery was not quite as easy as swapping a battery under the hood, but still a good DYI job.

After I was done, I did the BMS reset. I only got to drive it a little over a month on the new battery before I had my stroke and had to put it into storage, but the battery is holding strong on the trickle charger, and I fire up the ICE about twice a month just to flex it a bit. I also get to play with the new iOS 26 car play etc.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I have a 2022 Maverick XL hybrid which refused to start after using the emergency lights for 10 minutes with the engine turned off (lights and radio did not work). I concluded the original 12v OEM battery needed to be replaced (3 1/2 years old, measured only 5 v after trickle charging overnight), which led me to this thread. Here are my comments:

I ordered the UPLUS 140R AGM battery referenced above (Amazon, $139). I ordered a magnetic socket and drive extension, but when I could not find my magnetic pick up tool, I ended up pulling up the 3 plastic cover pieces around the battery. While it may be possible to replace the battery with the cover pieces in place, I cannot imagine the additional level of difficulty it would add.

As it was, when I tried to remove the positive battery terminal, the top nut on the post screw (which held down the battery post), was locked on so badly that I ended up deforming the battery post U-leg lugs to pull out the terminal sideways from the battery top positive post. I never did get the nut off, but ended sliding it back on and using a wrench to close the leg lugs around the screw post.

Some additional notes:

This Youtube video post was helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=replace+ford+maverick+12v+battery

1. One of my neighbors has a jump start battery pack, but that did NOT work on the Maverick (using under hood terminal connections). It was jump started the old fashioned way with my wife's car battery, by running her car for about 5 minutes with the jump cable in place. Remember never to try to jump start another car with the Maverick battery system.
2. As someone else mentioned, the hardest cover piece to remove was the second largest piece, which had to be bent around the metal seat support and the first side moulding cover piece (loosened but not removed). I ended up scratching this piece by the metal seat support (either taking it out or putting it back in).
3. I felt the terminal hold-down screw/nut was due to cheaper metal material being used by Ford, and may need to be replaced the next time the 12 v battery is replaced again.
4. I added post lug washers (with di-electric grease), but was concerned as the post screw had a base that rested atop the washer, making the screw slightly un-level. (The original OEM battery did not have these washers and grease).
5. The UPLUS battery can be returned but the seller would charge a 50% return fee (not free). Also there was several negative comments about the seller not responding to warranty issues (3 year warranty may be questionable?).
6. The UPLUS battery came with a small plastic plug that I fit into the positive side vent hole (as the negative side vent hole has an outside hose connection). There are NO instructions in the manual on what to do with it nor about whether this was proper, and no comment in any of the videos I watched on whether this was right for this battery and the Maverick.
7. It took me 4 hours to replace the battery (tried before Sunday church service and had to return to finish) due to me not being mechanically included and spending much of the time searching this thread and online videos about what to do with the vent plug. Next time, if the dealer charges around $100 for the labor to replace a user supplied battery, I would pay them to do it (I would guess that being experienced pros, they would replace the battery without removing all the cover pieces). I do not think Walmart would replace this battery for free with the purchase of one of their batteries.
8. After the battery was replaced, I did not have to reset the BMS or even my clock time settings. I have had several recalls that updated the truck software.
9. I had noticed that when I opened the truck door at night, the inside cabin overhead lights did not come on (it did before). After the battery was replaced, the lights worked again. This may be a good way to warn an owner of an upcoming necessary battery replacement.

Hope this helps someone.

Your 12v at 3+. Years and 5 volts most likely did need replacement. However a trickle charger could need 80+ hours to get it above 12 volts. Chargers with polarity checking would need at least 1.0 volts (more than 7 volts if it's checking for 12 volt battery. That's the reasoning for sometimes charging a 12v battery with charger set at six volts to get the charge level high enough so the charger can be set to 12 volt to complete the charging. This should be done with battery disconnected from vehicle, of course. There are additional things that can be done if battery is less than 1 volt also maybe taking 2 or 3 months).

 

[Pop2020]

So I need to replace the battery in my Maverick. Should I buy a charger ($60 on Amazon for a NOCO 5A) before installing or just check the voltage to make sure it's sufficient and install? What voltage might call for charging it before installing?

 

[HeyBales]

So I need to replace the battery in my Maverick. Should I buy a charger ($60 on Amazon for a NOCO 5A) before installing or just check the voltage to make sure it's sufficient and install? What voltage might call for charging it before installing?

You'd likely find a charger useful anyway - could go for 2A version of NOCO to save a little.
Best to charge it up - that way the 1st BMS Relearn after the BS Reset is truly a charged up battery.

Anything below 12.7.

 

[Pop2020]

Yep, Heybales, I would have other uses for it and have considered buying one in the past for my mower battery that sits through the winter.


Edited to add: Picked up an AGM battery to replace the original OEM one. Voltage reads 12.6. Order a charger and "top it off" or install as-is? Unless it meets and untimely end via a crash or other event, I'll have my Maverick for years to come and will probably eventually replace the battery again when this one wears out.

 

[Dad]

When I clicked on the link it said will not fit the 2023 Hybrid XLT. Not sure why since I thought all Hybrid’s were the same in that regard.

Happy to explain why you're getting the Amazon message. You're getting that "doesn't fit" message from Amazon, because the AGM battery is not the original equipment battery for your 2023 Maverick. Amazon is protecting themselves from any issues from Ford regarding replacing OEM parts which in this specific case was a flooded battery. The AGM is a superior upgrade and the H4 will fit perfectly. Just ignore Amazon's warning on this particular item.

Sponsored