Yep the light bar from ford. I installed it myself but am taking it to the local dealer tomorrow to see if they have any solution I’m thinking they won’t but we will see.
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No you put it underneath that. The light bar looks absolutely awesome so I’m hoping the dealer can figure it out. I think it’s pulling to much power because the taillight works when the light bar isn’t plugged in.
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I got it figured out myself by calling putco the one that makes the light bar and I had to run a wire from the battery to one of the wires on the box that has the wires for the light bar was a pain but think it’s working now so if you happen to buy one you might have to do that same.
Glad you got it figured out! I liked the simplicity of the install, but having to run a wire from the battery to the back is probably going to dissuade me.
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I think all of that is a coincidence. I drop my truck off for diagnosis on Tuesday.
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So this past week I had a similar situation. A driver pulled up beside me to tell me I had a tail light out on the drivers side. Had the wife stand behind the truck and found everything works except the tail light. If I turn the lights off and back on quickly it illuminates for a few seconds and then back off again.
I think I need to make an appointment to get my truck in again to have this looked at. Traveling currently and stumbled on this thread while researching.
I think I need to make an appointment to get my truck in again to have this looked at. Traveling currently and stumbled on this thread while researching.
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I had the bar installed on my truck at the dealership. Going to take it back today due to the same issue. Do you remember which wire it was? Thanks
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Probably a dumb question, but why run a wire to the battery, when there's a 20 12v source to use on either side of the bed?...we have two bed power source, put one to good use.
Looking at a similar unit, and watching thread for which wire needs the power.
Looking at a similar unit, and watching thread for which wire needs the power.
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I was thinking of this light as well, but it sounds like this might fix the issue?
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The problem with using the 12v power point in the bed is it doesn’t power on until the vehicle is turned on.
I may have a solution for the drivers side taillight not working. It involves making two changes to the wiring harness, one necessary and one optional
1) Mandatory. I cut the brown wire and connected a 47ohm 2w resister between the two ends. This I believe limits the inrush current for the Putco module which seemed to cause the Maverick control module for the taillights to think there was a fault because it drew to much current. FYI, I also tried a 100ohm and a 33 ohm resister and they both seemed to work.
2) Optional. I wired the Putco module to take power from the 12v power point in the bed. On the Putco module there is a red wire that loops back to the module. One side of this has a small piece of heatshink on it. Cut this fairly close to the module (4" or so) and use the heatshrink or electrical tape to insulate the end of it. Then take the other side of the red wire and spice/connect in into the 12v power point in the bed. Doing the black ground wire is optional to splice/connect into the bed power point but I did it in the course of trying to make everything work. This provides power to the Putco module once the vehicle is ON.
You could also take the Red wire mentioned in 2) and connect to to an always on circuit or preferably a circuit that is comes on when the vehicle unlocks. I'm not sure what the current draw is for the Putco module is for battery drain though.
I may have a solution for the drivers side taillight not working. It involves making two changes to the wiring harness, one necessary and one optional
1) Mandatory. I cut the brown wire and connected a 47ohm 2w resister between the two ends. This I believe limits the inrush current for the Putco module which seemed to cause the Maverick control module for the taillights to think there was a fault because it drew to much current. FYI, I also tried a 100ohm and a 33 ohm resister and they both seemed to work.
2) Optional. I wired the Putco module to take power from the 12v power point in the bed. On the Putco module there is a red wire that loops back to the module. One side of this has a small piece of heatshink on it. Cut this fairly close to the module (4" or so) and use the heatshrink or electrical tape to insulate the end of it. Then take the other side of the red wire and spice/connect in into the 12v power point in the bed. Doing the black ground wire is optional to splice/connect into the bed power point but I did it in the course of trying to make everything work. This provides power to the Putco module once the vehicle is ON.
You could also take the Red wire mentioned in 2) and connect to to an always on circuit or preferably a circuit that is comes on when the vehicle unlocks. I'm not sure what the current draw is for the Putco module is for battery drain though.
Appreciate the post as I am just now experiencing a similar problem. My issue is with the AUTO Light setting. I have it set to that all the time, but recently the passenger side taillights do not illuminate unless I turn the knob to ON, although they do stay on if I turn the knob back to AUTO. All the other lights work fine. Turning the vehicle off/on has no effect on this situation. Looks as though the BCM might be the culprit. Hopefully, they have them readily available several months after your post.
When my Maverick was in for a recall fix, they offered and I accepted a loaner. First time I chose a compact Mercedes from Enterprise thinking, "Hey, I'm upgrading myself to a Mercedes Benz". Talk about a letdown! Could not wait to get back in my Maverick as it rode smoother and quieter than the poor excuse of a once great car, MB. Can't recall the model, but it was one of their lower end compacts, but still. The Maverick is a solid truck and I can now say, "It rides better than a Mercedes Benz".
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