Looks like it is seeping out where the clamp is. See that dark part of the axle shaft. Mine is doing the same thing.I changed my oil the other day. While underneath, I took a look at my CV axles and I didn't see any leakage. I have just over 9,500 miles though.
I paid my private mechanic $750 for both front axles if that helps.
Normally that grease by itself should be staying in place. In the days of replacing boots and new grease - it was always thick.I changed my oil the other day. While underneath, I took a look at my CV axles and I didn't see any leakage. I have just over 9,500 miles though.
Curious - was this performed under warranty?
Mine were covered even though my tires were clearly not OEM. I run 245/65R17. Doubt you'd have issues with no suspension changes.
Most likely, one hybrid owner who did regular youtube videos while he owned his Maverick replaced them twice in 93k miles.
We are Neighbor . I live in Taylorsville.. I have a 2025 XLT hybrid on order. After reading so many posts, I wonder if I should cancel my order
2022 FX4, 4k tow, 28k miles, 1 inch rough country leveling kit on front suspension, 1.5 inch Eibach rear springs.
The truck started to get a slight rumble at close to 20k miles, after reading online about the CV axles, I knew this was the issue. I waited hoping Ford was going to issue a TSB or recall and a year went by and the rumble was getting worse and worse. A few weeks ago I took some friends golfing and had 5 people in the car and the bed loaded up. Upon accelerating up a hill, the truck was shaking so bad, steering wheel and whole front end was shaking back and forth in sync with depressing the throttle and I decided I needed to swap them.
Decided to do this myself to try and figure out why this is happening to so many Mavericks, the Axles are cheap, and I have serious trust issues with other people touching my vehicles (14 year Aircraft mechanic).
After replacing the axles, my truck literally drove like brand new again, I couldnt believe how bad the rumble had gotten and how used to it I was.
Total from Tasca parts online.
I think the problem is the Right Hand Axle with the female spline on the inboard axle. This was the only axle I could feel by hand that had play, it was wobbly when I grabbed and shook it (radial play) while it was installed on the truck. Looking at the splines, it has 2 splines that dont exist, I have no idea why they would do this, there is no master spline on the male end coming out of the PTU, the Male end is fully splined. With the 2 splines missing, I think its more susceptible to increased wear from vibration. The new Axle also came with the female spline with big gaps 180degree out.
Wear on the inside of the Inboard female spline housing
When this happens again, Im only going to replace the Right hand axle and see what happens.
TIPS ON REPLACEMENT
I know alot of people might be out of warranty and looking to do this yourself, Its really not that bad if you dont follow the Ford Manual (LOL)
Ford manual wants you to disconnect the lower control arm, good lucking getting the lower ball joint out. The lower ball joint is one of the worst designs ive ever seen and as far as I can tell, its not replaceable, you have to replace the lower control arm as a whole. Do yourself a favor and spray rust prevention on the lower ball joint right now for the future, there is a recess in the Lower control arm at the top of the ball joint where salt/water can accumulate and form rust. I modified a tie rod splitting tool to make it work but decided to remove the knuckle from the strut instead. There is very little room for any leverage, if the vehicles on a lift you could more easily remove the lower ball joint
How I found it easy to replace the Axles.
-Break lugnut/Axle nut torque on the ground. (deep 32mm for Axle nut)
-Disconnect Tierod
-Disconnect ABS wire supports
-Disconnect upper sway bar link (you will need to jack up lower control arm to relieve pressue on Sway Bar)
-support knuckle with cam strap to strut
-Disconnect and hammer out both Strut Bolts
-Hammer Axle in hub to loosen bond in wheel bearing(dont damage threads)
-Pry between transmission housing and axle housing to defeat circlip on Axle (I hope your strong, will take all your body strength)
Plan on having 2 quarts of ULV ATF on hand, I lost about a quart on the left hand side after pulling the axle.
I can do each side in an hour now, really not bad.
I really hope Ford figures this out, its not a big deal for me if I have to do this every couple of years for not that much $. But I understand for most people that have to pay for this to be done, the cost can be brutal. I am guessing this will be well over 1000$ to have the dealer do this?
MISC Torques
-Lugnuts 150 lb Feet
-Axle nut 76 lb Feet + 45degrees
-Strut to Knuckle bolts 103 lb Feet + 120degrees
-Upper sway bar link 81 lb feet
-Tie Rod to knuckle 35 lb feet
Thank you.
2022 FX4, 4k tow, 28k miles, 1 inch rough country leveling kit on front suspension, 1.5 inch Eibach rear springs.
The truck started to get a slight rumble at close to 20k miles, after reading online about the CV axles, I knew this was the issue. I waited hoping Ford was going to issue a TSB or recall and a year went by and the rumble was getting worse and worse. A few weeks ago I took some friends golfing and had 5 people in the car and the bed loaded up. Upon accelerating up a hill, the truck was shaking so bad, steering wheel and whole front end was shaking back and forth in sync with depressing the throttle and I decided I needed to swap them.
Decided to do this myself to try and figure out why this is happening to so many Mavericks, the Axles are cheap, and I have serious trust issues with other people touching my vehicles (14 year Aircraft mechanic).
After replacing the axles, my truck literally drove like brand new again, I couldnt believe how bad the rumble had gotten and how used to it I was.
Total from Tasca parts online.
I think the problem is the Right Hand Axle with the female spline on the inboard axle. This was the only axle I could feel by hand that had play, it was wobbly when I grabbed and shook it (radial play) while it was installed on the truck. Looking at the splines, it has 2 splines that dont exist, I have no idea why they would do this, there is no master spline on the male end coming out of the PTU, the Male end is fully splined. With the 2 splines missing, I think its more susceptible to increased wear from vibration. The new Axle also came with the female spline with big gaps 180degree out.
Wear on the inside of the Inboard female spline housing
When this happens again, Im only going to replace the Right hand axle and see what happens.
TIPS ON REPLACEMENT
I know alot of people might be out of warranty and looking to do this yourself, Its really not that bad if you dont follow the Ford Manual (LOL)
Ford manual wants you to disconnect the lower control arm, good lucking getting the lower ball joint out. The lower ball joint is one of the worst designs ive ever seen and as far as I can tell, its not replaceable, you have to replace the lower control arm as a whole. Do yourself a favor and spray rust prevention on the lower ball joint right now for the future, there is a recess in the Lower control arm at the top of the ball joint where salt/water can accumulate and form rust. I modified a tie rod splitting tool to make it work but decided to remove the knuckle from the strut instead. There is very little room for any leverage, if the vehicles on a lift you could more easily remove the lower ball joint
How I found it easy to replace the Axles.
-Break lugnut/Axle nut torque on the ground. (deep 32mm for Axle nut)
-Disconnect Tierod
-Disconnect ABS wire supports
-Disconnect upper sway bar link (you will need to jack up lower control arm to relieve pressue on Sway Bar)
-support knuckle with cam strap to strut
-Disconnect and hammer out both Strut Bolts
-Hammer Axle in hub to loosen bond in wheel bearing(dont damage threads)
-Pry between transmission housing and axle housing to defeat circlip on Axle (I hope your strong, will take all your body strength)
Plan on having 2 quarts of ULV ATF on hand, I lost about a quart on the left hand side after pulling the axle.
I can do each side in an hour now, really not bad.
I really hope Ford figures this out, its not a big deal for me if I have to do this every couple of years for not that much $. But I understand for most people that have to pay for this to be done, the cost can be brutal. I am guessing this will be well over 1000$ to have the dealer do this?
MISC Torques
-Lugnuts 150 lb Feet
-Axle nut 76 lb Feet + 45degrees
-Strut to Knuckle bolts 103 lb Feet + 120degrees
-Upper sway bar link 81 lb feet
-Tie Rod to knuckle 35 lb feet
