Just because, not for a specific actual use, if I had an XL (assuming all drive trains are electrically identical). Or perhaps find a hybrid maverick that has severe hail damage, I would consider seeing other options.
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LiFePo4 battery installed in my Hybrid Maverick
- Thread starter acelee1895
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- #92
I apologize, I don’t think I’m understanding what you’re wanting to do with itJust because, not for a specific actual use, if I had an XL (assuming all drive trains are electrically identical). Or perhaps find a hybrid maverick that has severe hail damage, I would consider seeing other options.
I apologize for not being specific. More wanting to just understand the reasonable actual limitations even if I had to buy a hail damaged or one still operationally 100% just to see! Most likely will not do that! I appreciate what you are doing and see it as a possibility to get a large enough battery to handle periods truck would have to sit for at least a month if Ford doesn't shut down the slow battery drain. When temps are below 40°F (ish) my stock 12v will lose 0.1-0.2v overnight. It has been posted that workers who park for days at airports frequently have to deal with deep sleep conditions. My personal preference would be to charge a 1-3kw battery to supply 12-15 amps max 120v inverter intermittent use for 3 hours.
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- #94
gotcha, when it comes to long term parking, I think that a battery disconnect or small solar charger is the best bet. Significantly cheaper than replacing the whole battery. as for the inverter, I totally think that is possible. I also believe the truck can charge the battery fast enough that you can use the inverter for that time without running down the battery as an option
See page 325 in manual "storing your truck if not using it for 30 days". Mentions disconnecting 12v and if done you will have to reload your preferences, settings etc. States battery (presumably HVB) should be at 50% making no reference how you are supposed to know it's there). So a 12v disconnect should not be considered an option. So the solar trickle charger would be an option unless truck is inside or otherwise not in direct sunlight. They are concerned with condensate as it's recommended that fuel tank be filled to first click off. Truck should be run every 15 days for at least 15 minutes with climate control set to defrost (presumably to exercise the compressor and remove any humidity) until operating temp is reached. Also engine oil should be changed before storage as well as before driving again. (Super big a$$ cover). Also operate every 15 days through all gears And move it at least 25feet.
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I didn't say it wouldn't be a mild PIA to disconnect the battery. I've done it probably dozens of times in the last week or so. Can confirm, some setting reset but not all and its pretty quick to reset them. Less time to reset than it is to set up a solar charger or go start and move it every few days. Just a matter of what you want to deal with. The change I did probably also couldn't sit for a month without completely discharging either so it is what it is.See page 325 in manual "storing your truck if not using it for 30 days". Mentions disconnecting 12v and if done you will have to reload your preferences, settings etc. States battery (presumably HVB) should be at 50% making no reference how you are supposed to know it's there). So a 12v disconnect should not be considered an option. So the solar trickle charger would be an option unless truck is inside or otherwise not in direct sunlight. They are concerned with condensate as it's recommended that fuel tank be filled to first click off. Truck should be run every 15 days for at least 15 minutes with climate control set to defrost (presumably to exercise the compressor and remove any humidity) until operating temp is reached. Also engine oil should be changed before storage as well as before driving again. (Super big a$$ cover). Also operate every 15 days through all gears And move it at least 25feet.
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Some Updates:
Got into forscan to look into some changes. The battery type was already set for AGM. My guess is that when I did the reset, the truck found the power curve most closely represented AGM and switched itself.
I cannot find anything that changes anything with the DCDC converter that charges the battery. I also dug around in my bluetooth adapter to see if I could find a temp reading for it to make sure I wasn't overheating it but couldn't find one.
One of the Cells is charging faster than the others and kicks off the overvoltage protection on the BMS preventing a completely full charge but it gets most the way. My guess is the high amperage or near beak temperature is making the cell not perform quite as well as the others. I don't intend on this long term with these cells so not a huge issue.
I unplugged the BMS cable for a little bit to see what that changes. On every start up, I get a warning to service charging system. The converter also defaults to 13.5V as a peak and stop charging the pack there. I feel like if someone is wanting to do this, that is a good way force a standard charge but it will not get completely full on that voltage and may cause other issues that I haven't found yet.
Overall, it is still functioning and hasn't had any major hiccups. I am currently looking into a higher amp BMS that can do 3-400 amp load sustain and 200 am charging. I think I found a good contender so will order that and then some new, larger cells and get that switched at some point.
Got into forscan to look into some changes. The battery type was already set for AGM. My guess is that when I did the reset, the truck found the power curve most closely represented AGM and switched itself.
I cannot find anything that changes anything with the DCDC converter that charges the battery. I also dug around in my bluetooth adapter to see if I could find a temp reading for it to make sure I wasn't overheating it but couldn't find one.
One of the Cells is charging faster than the others and kicks off the overvoltage protection on the BMS preventing a completely full charge but it gets most the way. My guess is the high amperage or near beak temperature is making the cell not perform quite as well as the others. I don't intend on this long term with these cells so not a huge issue.
I unplugged the BMS cable for a little bit to see what that changes. On every start up, I get a warning to service charging system. The converter also defaults to 13.5V as a peak and stop charging the pack there. I feel like if someone is wanting to do this, that is a good way force a standard charge but it will not get completely full on that voltage and may cause other issues that I haven't found yet.
Overall, it is still functioning and hasn't had any major hiccups. I am currently looking into a higher amp BMS that can do 3-400 amp load sustain and 200 am charging. I think I found a good contender so will order that and then some new, larger cells and get that switched at some point.
PIA either way Ford needs to change something. Would my noco 5amp smart maintainer work satisfactorily on the under hood pins being that far from the oem battery considering that it would be reading on an open circuit with maybe varying (small???) Loads or pos at battery with body ground?
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- #99
Ford doesn't need to change anything. Its features that work while the truck isn't on. People want features, ford puts in those features, those features take energy. with the truck off, I am seeing less 5 amp draw from my battery pack so yes a 5 amp charger would work to keep it topped off. I've put on a battery maintainer on those pins under the hood and it does work. could even mount it permanently and run an extension cord like a block heater
Thanks for your detailed informaton on your experiment, I am looking to add a ~1500w pure sin wave inverter in the future and thought about replacing the horrible Ford 12v battery with as big of an (off the shelve) LiFePo4. Won't be a while before I attempt this as I need to finish up other upgrades with my truck, which will allow me tons more time to learn more about these stuff. Meanwhile I am slowly taking each trim panels apart to add sound deadening all over, just did the under seat storage and was also looking around the 12v battery area to gauge out where would be the best place to discreetly install an inverter.
My goal is to have a somewhat "PowerBoot" feature where I can basically plug anything into my truck and use it as a power source anywhere, while keeping engine restart to recharge the battery as little as possible. LiFePo4 seems to be a better alternative than deep cycle batteries.
My goal is to have a somewhat "PowerBoot" feature where I can basically plug anything into my truck and use it as a power source anywhere, while keeping engine restart to recharge the battery as little as possible. LiFePo4 seems to be a better alternative than deep cycle batteries.
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The truck converter can for sure keep up with 1500 watts. Should be easy change especially if its a prebuilt battery designed for car used like the Dakota Lithium. should be plenty of room in the compartment with the trim removed, if not, behind the seat may have enough space if you have a more simple truck, keep an eye on heat thoughThanks for your detailed informaton on your experiment, I am looking to add a ~1500w pure sin wave inverter in the future and thought about replacing the horrible Ford 12v battery with as big of an (off the shelve) LiFePo4. Won't be a while before I attempt this as I need to finish up other upgrades with my truck, which will allow me tons more time to learn more about these stuff. Meanwhile I am slowly taking each trim panels apart to add sound deadening all over, just did the under seat storage and was also looking around the 12v battery area to gauge out where would be the best place to discreetly install an inverter.
My goal is to have a somewhat "PowerBoot" feature where I can basically plug anything into my truck and use it as a power source anywhere, while keeping engine restart to recharge the battery as little as possible. LiFePo4 seems to be a better alternative than deep cycle batteries.
I would elect for a permanent connection since the pos jump terminal is threaded but just run wires to plug noci into. When ambient temp gets around 40°F the overnight drain on 12v will drop battery an additional 0.1-0.15v. maybe after I get the positive harness "your truck may not start" overlay recall done the truck can make better use of HVB in middle of night (if that's even a remote possibility but wouldn't be enough reserve to even mess with). Thanks for your input. All vehicles are hard on 12v and have been for 20+ years.
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This is really interesting. I really DOUBT it switches itself for AGM.
Maybe it was AGM all the time.
Maybe all of ours are set to AGM even if we have FLA and that is why the FLA are failing so fast!?
The Ford 400 watt inverter is installed on the floor under the center console between the front seats. I don't know how much extra room for a larger inverter there might be. Also I don't remember if there is anything there to cool the inverter. most likely not enough room to add a thermo electric chiller set to come on at appropriate temp.Thanks for your detailed informaton on your experiment, I am looking to add a ~1500w pure sin wave inverter in the future and thought about replacing the horrible Ford 12v battery with as big of an (off the shelve) LiFePo4. Won't be a while before I attempt this as I need to finish up other upgrades with my truck, which will allow me tons more time to learn more about these stuff. Meanwhile I am slowly taking each trim panels apart to add sound deadening all over, just did the under seat storage and was also looking around the 12v battery area to gauge out where would be the best place to discreetly install an inverter.
My goal is to have a somewhat "PowerBoot" feature where I can basically plug anything into my truck and use it as a power source anywhere, while keeping engine restart to recharge the battery as little as possible. LiFePo4 seems to be a better alternative than deep cycle batteries.
Good information! I am looking to fabericate some sort of permanent actively cooled solution. At the same time I also want to retain as much of the storage in the truck as possible, as the extra space behind/under the back seat has been way too useful to give up.
I have also looked all over the truck for empty space to utilize as previous metioned earlier by other member, but had also came to the same concolusion that probably best to keep these high current electronics inside the cabin.
In car electronics is something that I've never had a chance to do with my previous cars, so there is definitely a lot of learn before getting my hands dirty.
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