How about placing one or both in one of those swinging tool boxes? The under bed is most definitely NOT waterproof. There are many in other threads desiring more than fords 400watt modified sine inverter say 10-15 amp 120v pure sine If under rear seat is safe there is a good market here on this site for a well designed setup. I think resistance would be at $1k though.
It is definitely possible. My pack currently is just shy of 1 Kwh. I’m not sure if you’re serious about the Tesla charger or not but it’s really not necessary and would be more of a pain. To charge a 2 kWh pack on household outlet would charge in a mere two hours from completely empty to full. Also the truck provides over 100 amps easily so the truck running can fully charge in about two hours as well. I wouldn’t consider 240v charging unless you’re up over 5 kWh.The 12v cca is important to provide a lot of accessory power to start things and power them until and only until you turn key or push button to "Ready" the truck. Max reserve capacity is most important. An equal start and reserve capacity (to handle Max accessory needs) is all that's needed for ever how long you want that power. So I can see need for 2kw LiFePo4 plus possibly a tap to emergency charge a Tesla power wall.
If you want to charge from the truck tool boxes wouldn’t be ideal because they move. Would have to find a way to route the wires without them ever getting caught. They are strangely shaped as well would be difficult to fit cells and an inverter in there.
True haha. I have over 25k kms on mine but I've had it since April of last year.
What specifically are you interested in so I can make a note? so far it seems to just be working plug and play. charges quickly and allows the truck to start. I don't see anything changing unless my BMS blows from pushing more current than it is rated for
Battery efficiency, do you get a few miles extra. Are you seeing more response on the throttle.. I am not very battery savvy.
No worries. This is a learning post to help people learn.
I highly doubt you're a simpleton. Everyone has their own reasons for doing things. Mine happens to be typed up in post #7 if you want to check there so I don't have to clutter this with retyping it. I have had very little issues and this wasn't to fix a specific issue. I also average a little over 40 mpg but this shouldn't change that for better or worse.
What kind of mileage are you looking atWell folks, I did it. I replaced my (edited) Lead acid battery with a LiFePo4 battery. I haven’t see any posts of anyone else doing it but if you know any, I would love to read them and see what they found. I’m not going to tell you how to do it because I’m not convinced it won’t break something yet but I can share what I’ve found so far. All of this is based on my 2023 Hybrid (edited) lariat with copilot 360.
I built and put in a 72 AH battery. I have a Bluetooth BMS attached to it so I can see a lot of stats with the main ones being power draw and amperage for charging.
Good news is that the truck seems to mostly be plug and play with it. Started right up and charges it with no issues so far. Bad news is that I still have the stupid deep sleep issue even though when I woke up this morning, battery was at 50% I think around 13 volts.
The dc-dc converter has dumped a max of 170 amps into the battery but it normally charges at a 120-130 amp level until it starts to fill up. So anyone who’s thinking of high amp draw accessories (winch or ac converter), unless you upgrade the battery, you should be good up to 120 amps continuous. Normal power draw while driving sits at about 20-40 amps dependent on what’s running for accessories.
Temperature seems to be a little bit of a concern, my batteries are good up to 45*C and we are getting up to the high 30’s low 40’s sometimes. I think using a bigger cell would help dissipate some of that heat.
Another thing is that it seems to like to charge the battery to between 50-55% until it randomly decides to charge full. I haven’t figured out if this is something with the batteries bms or the trucks yet
I’ll post a couple screenshots from my bms screen and if you have any questions or anything you would like me to check, let me know and I’ll try it out.
DONT DO THIS. USE A PROPER CASE USE HEAT SHRINK ON ALL CONNECTIONS AND GET A PROPER MOUNTING MECHANISM
DONT DO THIS. USE A PROPER CASE USE HEAT SHRINK ON ALL CONNECTIONS AND GET A PROPER MOUNTING MECHANISM
The fuel economy doesn’t change by changing the 12v battery. I’m receiving my normal 42 mpg with 235/60/18 nitro nomad grappler tires
Thanks
Tesla powerwall would be possible but no where reasonably feasible. One Powerwall 3 with built in inverter could furnish current for subsistence circuits with 13,500kw. Powerwall is designed for 10 hours solar charge 16 hour discharge. Truck could very easily direct feed a 1,2, or larger kwh diy LiFePo4 although solar charge backup to take load off truck would be wise, I think. Whole home propane generator better!
I mentioned heat in a earlier post. It is getting up towards the limit but hasn’t hit it yet. There’s decent amount of heat in the compartment already from the exhaust under the truck. Using bigger cells and a beefier BMS could offset that heat due to them taking longer to warm up and generating less heat during high current charge and discharge due to less resistance. Another option is to use some insulation on the metal body to prevent that heat from getting to the battery. Then I removed the trim piece, it opened up a little bit of a gap between the bottom of the seat cushion and body and that probably helps too.Tesla powerwall would be possible but no where reasonably feasible. One Powerwall 3 with built in inverter could furnish current for subsistence circuits with 13,500kw. Powerwall is designed for 10 hours solar charge 16 hour discharge. Truck could very easily direct feed a 1,2, or larger kwh diy LiFePo4 although solar charge backup to take load off truck would be wise, I think. Whole home propane generator better!
With heat build up in battery bin in truck do we need to consider refrigeration or at least air circulation cooling?
