Kicker Key 200.4 tuning for Hybrid XLT non B&O system

[Carlitos_92]

In order to correct the issue I will need to undo the tweeter connections and route them to the front door speakers instead, and then run new wire from the key 200.4 to the tweeter side of the crossovers, correct? If so what do I do with the factory tweeter wiring? Do i just cap it?

Do you know how the 200.4 is feeding the speakers up front? What should happen is that the 200.4 feeds into the crossover, and then the tweeter output goes to the tweeters, and the woofer output goes to the doors. Clearly it is not that way right now.

You could run new wire to the doors, but if the 200.4 is already feeding the doors somehow, I would just find that connection and undo/redo it. I would assume it is behind the HVAC controls, but who knows where they tapped in.

They did not leave you much wire to work with on the woofer output, and that sucks. Not to mention that if it was left like that, there was bare +VDC just waiting to short out and damage the crossover, or worse. At the very least you should get compensated for the cost of the crossovers, if not the whole damn "installation."

I would run new wire from the crossover output to the tweeters if it wasn't already done.

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[Maverick123]

It would definitely be better (and easier) but I am trying to avoid using bi-amp mode because I want to keep the key200.4 in 4 channel mode. I already paid to upgrade the rear speakers (might as well get the most out of them), and the rear back up sensors and cross traffic alarms are linked to the rear speakers too. I don’t want to run them off head unit power since those speakers have a low sensitivity rating and will lose volume with the alarms. Had I known this I never would have upgraded the rear speakers to begin with

Anywho, I might just take the doors off and run the wiring from the crossover through the boot and to the speaker as this post demonstrates. Seems like the quickest solution at this point. Thanks for the reply

You're chasing after the sunk costs of your rear speakers, which isn't the right strategy IMO. If it was my time and money I'd bi-amp the Key to your front mids and tweeters which will give you the 100% best sound possible, and run the rears off the head unit since they're only there to provide a bit of rear fill & the sensor / alarm sounds

Active crossover > passive crossover

 

[outothswrld]

Do you know how the 200.4 is feeding the speakers up front? What should happen is that the 200.4 feeds into the crossover, and then the tweeter output goes to the tweeters, and the woofer output goes to the doors. Clearly it is not that way right now.

You could run new wire to the doors, but if the 200.4 is already feeding the doors somehow, I would just find that connection and undo/redo it. I would assume it is behind the HVAC controls, but who knows where they tapped in.

They did not leave you much wire to work with on the woofer output, and that sucks. Not to mention that if it was left like that, there was bare +VDC just waiting to short out and damage the crossover, or worse. At the very least you should get compensated for the cost of the crossovers, if not the whole damn "installation."

I would run new wire from the crossover output to the tweeters if it wasn't already done.

The key 200.4 is wired under the center console. Right under where the transmission rotary dial is. Looks like they cut into the wires coming off the harness. So the wires feed in then feed back out.

Yes, I have seen that the easiest way to route the wires is the way you described, but being that they already butchered it and hooked up the tweeters i think it would be easier to just run new wire to the door speaker wiring in the kick panels no? Then re-run the key 200.4 EQ function.

 

[outothswrld]

You're chasing after the sunk costs of your rear speakers, which isn't the right strategy IMO. If it was my time and money I'd bi-amp the Key to your front mids and tweeters which will give you the 100% best sound possible, and run the rears off the head unit since they're only there to provide a bit of rear fill & the sensor / alarm sounds

Active crossover > passive crossover

Maybe . I am basically just trying to keep the rear alarms as audible as possible as they’re already a little low. I’ve also tried fading the sound out in the rear to mimic what it might sound like without power and I’m not a big fan. I do like the balance the rear fill it provides too. I know this is largely personal preference, but maybe the difference in running it active will be enough to win me over. I know the Key uses a 24db slope as opposed to the 12 db slope Focal uses for the crossovers. I’ll keep you all posted. Heck maybe I’ll even make a video

 

[Carlitos_92]

The key 200.4 is wired under the center console. Right under where the transmission rotary dial is. Looks like they cut into the wires coming off the harness. So the wires feed in then feed back out.

Yes, I have seen that the easiest way to route the wires is the way you described, but being that they already butchered it and hooked up the tweeters i think it would be easier to just run new wire to the door speaker wiring in the kick panels no? Then re-run the key 200.4 EQ function.

You can certainly do that if it's easier. I just figured the door wiring was already good as-is and you could make use of the hacked-up connections they'd already made in the console or dash. It probably makes a difference where the crossovers sit, and I wasn't clear on that.

 

[outothswrld]

You can certainly do that if it's easier. I just figured the door wiring was already good as-is and you could make use of the hacked-up connections they'd already made in the console or dash. It probably makes a difference where the crossovers sit, and I wasn't clear on that.

Gotcha. If I do what you describe then I’d be making 4 new connections (tweeters and door speakers) as opposed to just 2 (door speakers) since the door speakers are not currently connected to the crossovers. The crossover is tapped into the tweeter factory wiring under the dashboard, which just runs back to the Key where they cut into the harness wiring.
My thinking is that I can just splice the door speaker factory wiring near the kick panels before it reaches the rubber boot and Molex connector, solder in new wiring and run that up to the passive crossover.

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