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Driving continuously in "L" mode?

MakinDoForNow

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Probably no other thread on this subject because it it just ain't right to drive in "low range" all the time.

I can see a new post starting soon, "My transmission gave out with low mileage and I just don't know why."
There were several threads around a year ago of driving in low do not believe the term "all the time" or similar was used. When my hybrid engine brakes it can be quite loud (I think someone mentioned that there is a bypass in muffler to reduce restriction presumably to aid in engine braking but I never confirmed this). The engine braking while quite loud is smooth but I am begining to wonder if some of those reporting a "shudder" are actually just hearing the engine braking????
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GPSMan

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I drove quite a bit in low mode for awhile to maximize Regen and it is excellent thing to use in heavy stop and go one pedal driving but noticed in relatively low miles that the HVB would apparently exceed the 70-72% charge point at which time engine braking would occur as the rate of charge of HVB is reduced there. Engine braking at 40+ mph is quite noticable. I will push the low button when approaching a turn or a speed limit reduction as it will maximize Regen without activating the hydraulic brakes. Have not measured but guessing 65 to 20 mph in (500 feet??) Will get 95+%regen. Do this three or five times in five or so miles and engine braking should occur whether hvb becomes charged enough or battery temp rises enough to cause computer to reduce rate of charge/discharge. Someone with monitoring equipment could check this out. I have taken to using slippery mode most of time....
I have.

What do you want to know?

Best "gauge" on the car is EV coach.
If you want higher MPG you should be using EV coach. If you want higher MPG you should be driving in EV mode whenever able.
 

GPSMan

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I am begining to wonder if some of those reporting a "shudder" are actually just hearing the engine braking????
No. Not at all.
Quite different phenomenon.
Unrelated phenomenon.
Easy to distinguish between the two.
 

MakinDoForNow

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No. Not at all.
Quite different phenomenon.
Unrelated phenomenon.
Easy to distinguish between the two.
I certainly expect them to be totally different but have only once had mine idle roughly while in park. Has not happened again but when I exit car now while in ready state I place in neutral and set the parking brake and then when I exit computer places car in park. This shouldn't matter but brake is set before park is set so who knows maybe ??
 

clavicus

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I certainly expect them to be totally different but have only once had mine idle roughly while in park. Has not happened again but when I exit car now while in ready state I place in neutral and set the parking brake and then when I exit computer places car in park. This shouldn't matter but brake is set before park is set so who knows maybe ??
Eh? Whats the point of choosing neutral instead of park if the system does it anyway? Park just enables a parking pawl to engage with one of the transmission gear teeth so the wheels physically can’t turn.
 

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mamboman777

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One thing that could be a disadvantage: unnecessarily engaging engine braking. This would cause unnecessary engine wear.

I think it could also cause unnecessary transmission wear, but that's just speculation.
 

MakinDoForNow

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Eh? Whats the point of choosing neutral instead of park if the system does it anyway? Park just enables a parking pawl to engage with one of the transmission gear teeth so the wheels physically can’t turn.
Like I said it should not matter but the point is that the computer will activate the parking pawl AFTER (maybe as, I have no idea the order the computer performs) the brake is set manually. The rough idle (possibly the plate between engine and trans or maybe the pawl did not completely engage or perhaps there was a timing issue with switching on the generate mode, who knows??) but in any case the loud hammering/rough idle has not occured since. Whatever caused it in the first place. Of interest is the trip milage is reset when exiting vehicle to open gate or whatever reason without taking vehicle out of ready mode and trip completion screen is not shown.
 

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I use the Low gear in my hybrid for a few purposes. Firstly, to maximize fuel efficiency by getting as much regenerative braking as possible before stopping. Secondly, when driving on trails or forest roads, to prevent the car from rolling too much. Lastly, when going downhill on a steep grade, to reduce the need for using brakes.

I would love to see some data on whether using Low gear affects the throttle response, such as optimizing ecvt ratios for torque. However, I usually switch it off once I've stopped because I don't notice any difference.
 

upnash

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After watching Johnny talk about driving in L I’ve been playing around with it. I use the L driving in the city stop and go and turn L off when I’m on more open roads. I’ve noticed more electric driving miles and better gas mileage. This mode does give a kind of one pedal driving experience because the regenerative braking becomes very strong when you let off on the gas pedal but you can modify this by adjusting your force on the accelerator. My big concern is being rear ended while slowing down for a red light in L mode because I doubt the brake lights are activated.
 

clavicus

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I use the Low gear in my hybrid for a few purposes. Firstly, to maximize fuel efficiency by getting as much regenerative braking as possible before stopping. Secondly, when driving on trails or forest roads, to prevent the car from rolling too much. Lastly, when going downhill on a steep grade, to reduce the need for using brakes.

I would love to see some data on whether using Low gear affects the throttle response, such as optimizing ecvt ratios for torque. However, I usually switch it off once I've stopped because I don't notice any difference.
I just want to clarify: Are we all in agreement that brake pedal and L mode can both achieve the same regen levels? It’s just that L defaults you to about 50% [EDIT: I see now that at higher speeds regen level is up to 100% and at low speeds it might only be 50%] and your foot on the brake pedal is a manual choice of how much regen?
 
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jsus

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I just want to clarify: Are we all in agreement that brake pedal and L mode can both achieve the same regen levels? It’s just that L defaults you to about 50% and your foot on the brake pedal is a manual choice of how much regen?
Nothing magically unlocks additional regenerative braking. The brake pedal is blended - it'll apply as much regen as is available before engaging the friction brakes. That's true regardless of how much regen is used when lifting off the accelerator pedal.
 

rivermaverick

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I use the Low gear in my hybrid for a few purposes. Firstly, to maximize fuel efficiency by getting as much regenerative braking as possible before stopping. Secondly, when driving on trails or forest roads, to prevent the car from rolling too much. Lastly, when going downhill on a steep grade, to reduce the need for using brakes.
I'm still waiting for my hybrid Maverick but I do the same thing with the manual function on regular auto trans, manually downshift when slowing and maximize engine ORFCO mode. I'm getting 6 MPG over the EPA urban figures with my EcoSport.
 

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I just want to clarify: Are we all in agreement that brake pedal and L mode can both achieve the same regen levels? It’s just that L defaults you to about 50% and your foot on the brake pedal is a manual choice of how much regen?
If you use the ev coach screen it very clearly shows when you are using 100% regen or not. The system is dynamic. At higher speeds L will max out the regen bar. It will not at lower speeds. If you apply braking at high speeds it will show you are using friction brakes in addition. You’ll need a little bit of brake travel to max it out at lower speeds.

I would agree, that using this technique often or at inappropriate situations could be a concern due to the brake lights not coming on. Better safe than sorry. With my small amount of testing using low “all the time” does not provide a superior driving experience, and definitely does not increase mpg.

I would use it only in specific situations where it’s the optimal solution, or to conserve friction brakes as long as possible. Or to reduce speed to maintain better control.
 

clavicus

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If you use the ev coach screen it very clearly shows when you are using 100% regen or not. The system is dynamic. At higher speeds L will max out the regen bar. It will not at lower speeds. If you apply braking at high speeds it will show you are using friction brakes in addition. You’ll need a little bit of brake travel to max it out at lower speeds.

I would agree, that using this technique often or at inappropriate situations could be a concern due to the brake lights not coming on. Better safe than sorry. With my small amount of testing using low “all the time” does not provide a superior driving experience, and definitely does not increase mpg.

I would use it only in specific situations where it’s the optimal solution, or to conserve friction brakes as long as possible. Or to reduce speed to maintain better control.
That all makes sense to me. On my end I use it sometimes like some others who feel it really shines in the low to mid speed traffic where there’s a lot of decel/accel more than full braking.
 

GPSMan

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I just want to clarify: Are we all in agreement that brake pedal and L mode can both achieve the same regen levels? It’s just that L defaults you to about 50% and your foot on the brake pedal is a manual choice of how much regen?
Yes. I would agree.
L is not the best mode for highest MPG.
Slippery mode and maximum coasting is.

L has a lot of dis-advantages and it becomes more and more prevalent as speed increases.

AFAIK there is no advantage to L for going up hills. The advantage, and main purpose for L is going down hills.
A side effect, on flat, is it behaves similarly to "one pedal driving" in EV's.

However in EV's L mode slows the vehicle to a dead stop and holds it stopped and DOES activate brake lamps when decelerating.
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