Drive modes

[Fcnrwy]

I have done a little online, research of this "passenger Sim" mode.
I can not find it?

Jerry

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[Ozarkbeard]

I'm in a hybrid and still figuring out what the darn modes are lol.

Just drive in Slippery Mode for best MPG.
Also use Brake Coach & EV Coach screens. The two screens will teach you how to remain in Electric mode longer, for higher mileage.

 

[bobbyd454]

Just drive in Slippery Mode for best MPG.
Also use Brake Coach & EV Coach screens. The two screens will teach you how to remain in Electric mode longer, for higher mileage.

I too, am in the dark on how to get good mpg with my hybrid. I ride mostly in eco and have only put on some 120 miles since owning the truck. I have used a quarter tank of gas, where the meter says it is down to 3/4. I looked, which is not easy to find, the gas mileage and it has not been over 28 mpg. How are others getting up in the 40's with a hybrid? I am looking at the screen everyday trying to figure how to get here, or there. Maybe it is just age, but I think the hybrid ought to be doing more to save gas.

 

[Cherokee]

it has not been over 28 mpg. How are others getting up in the 40’s. I think the hybrid ought to be doing more to save gas.

Extremely cold weather reduces mpg’s,
Every 10 degree drop in outside temp drops tire pressure one psi,
Even on my Ecoboost 2.0L
All the ‘Modes’ are basically just throttle remapping.
I hardly ever play with any of them because I can control my right foot just fine.
Eco in city traffic can help mpg’s a bit.
Sport is a hoot. Makes me think my four banger is fast.
All I have to do is push the gas pedal farther down near the floor and I’m in sport mode. No difference at all. My shift points move right on up the tach. But I’m just another happy idiot. Remember, some of the sporty sounds comes through the speaker system. You’ve been fooled. BMW got caught doing that. The smaller engine Mustangs rely on that.
It takes I think 500 miles for the fuel management system to get its shit together so you can get more mpg’s.
If I unplug my battery for five minutes it has to Re-learn everything I think.
High mpg’s in a hybrid is reached in a very old school type of driving just like in my Ecoboost.

Drive like grandma going to church.
Smooth, Slow and steady wins the mpg race.

Just like in big V-8’s of yester year.
Accelerate briskly to get into high gear asap. In there lies better mpg’s.
Contemplate this on the,
‘Tree of Woe’
Grasshopper. :’P

Those high mpg numbers are reached with very careful throttle input, lots of coasting.
And in traffic looking ahead, anticipating when you should coast and brake.

Don’t forget, every time you brake you burn gas. Every time.
Why you ask ?
Because when you brake you have to press the gas’s pedal to get the speed back you just bled off.

IMHO it takes most vehicles a few thousand miles to break in and become efficient and that long for you to get your throttle control down pat.

I must add that watching my individual wheel power meter in the vehicle options menu behind the steering wheel wheel I can say that slippery mode equally distributes power to the front and rear wheels when climbing steep stuff.
Where normal mode on the same climb put 30% power in the rear while giving the front 60%.
Slippery mode feels more powerful and accurate on my steep very loose gravel roads.

 

[Tbone289]

All the ‘Modes’ are basically just throttle remapping.

...and they alter shift point strategy, and traction control activation/deactivation, and alter F/R power distribution strategy and other things depending on what mode you choose and what modes you have available.

I frequently use tow/haul mode in the hills around here to change the shift point strategy and keep the engine in the power band, and for compression braking when descending mountain roads.

Don’t forget, every time you brake you burn gas. Every time.
Why you ask ?
Because when you brake you have to press the gas’s pedal to get the speed back you just bled off.

True, and you can save a lot of fuel by avoiding the use of brakes. Technically, it's because you've converted kinetic energy and momentum into heat energy generated by friction between the brake pads and discs. Fuel was consumed to build the kinetic energy, so effectively through multiple processes you're converting the energy stored in that fuel into heat energy that is lost into the atmosphere and can't be recovered.

 

[Cherokee]

...and they alter shift point strategy,
I frequently use tow/haul mode in the hills around here to change the shift point strategy and keep the engine in the power band, and for compression braking when descending mountain roads.

I never thought of tow/haul for engine braking.
I’ll have to give that a try since I cannot select a gear I want for that.

 

[Tbone289]

I never thought of tow/haul for engine braking.
I’ll have to give that a try since I cannot select a gear I want for that.

When you begin descending a hill in tow/haul it won't downshift immediately, but it will if you apply the brakes briefly. For more compression braking of course you can push the "L" button for an even lower gear/higher RPM.

 

[bobbyd454]

...and they alter shift point strategy, and traction control activation/deactivation, and alter F/R power distribution strategy and other things depending on what mode you choose and what modes you have available.

I frequently use tow/haul mode in the hills around here to change the shift point strategy and keep the engine in the power band, and for compression braking when descending mountain roads.



True, and you can save a lot of fuel by avoiding the use of brakes. Technically, it's because you've converted kinetic energy in the form of momentum into heat energy generated by friction between the brake pads and discs. Fuel was consumed to build the kinetic energy, so effectively through multiple processes you're converting the energy stored in that fuel into heat energy that is lost into the atmosphere and can't be recovered.

So do you juat use a "fred flintstone" method by dragging your feet to stop?

 

[Tbone289]

So do you juat use a "fred flintstone" method by dragging your feet to stop?

I didn't say anything about stopping. You convert fuel into heat every time you use the brakes. Dragging your feet Flintstone-style does the same thing as the brakes. Trust me, you would feel that converted heat in your heels!

Consider the guy that drives the speed limit as far as he can to the point where he has to brake to stop at the stop light, vs. the guy that sees the stop light up ahead and starts coasting to slow down.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I never thought of tow/haul for engine braking.
I’ll have to give that a try since I cannot select a gear I want for that.

The "L" button can be pressed at any time and speed and is for (mainly) down hill engine braking. It will in a very short time fill the HVB to about 72% SOC and then engine brake.

 

[Ozarkbeard]

I too, am in the dark on how to get good mpg with my hybrid. I ride mostly in eco and have only put on some 120 miles since owning the truck. I have used a quarter tank of gas, where the meter says it is down to 3/4. I looked, which is not easy to find, the gas mileage and it has not been over 28 mpg. How are others getting up in the 40's with a hybrid? I am looking at the screen everyday trying to figure how to get here, or there. Maybe it is just age, but I think the hybrid ought to be doing more to save gas.

The post of mine you previously quoted can help. Use EV Coach & Brake Coach screens to learn how to drive a Hybrid for better MPG.

Also, your mileage will improve when your truck gets a few thousand miles on it, and with warmer weather when you don't have to use the heater, (which uses a lot more gas than the A/C in summer).

 

[Nw_adventure]

Can you hard reset the infotainment ?

 

[Roman Canadian]

Check this out. I too was frustrated by always hitting the ECO mode, until I installed this. Doesn't take too long to install and never had to hit that mode switch again. Well worth it. Works perfectly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275967879719?itmmeta=01HSZ0BDAP1Q7VZQ54XYXFG5P8&hash=item4040f7aa27:g:YAUAAOSw~oFl7m3B&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAAwJzG0UAHy5EzUeyrEhOaJ/Pa8NrYtlp+xtVx/qXEpMsa7RatQWw1fCHXB60EDlt41/aHyW3K/+shAbj6PiTcWTSdXwm+MrJrvQ+Pa7TpcAYyjsWoitKbxmnDKvOxUpZCLy2qJBCUKf1SN8GwqafXuuzx7N9TYjcPrSCf4wkug+nkA47q7h68uNGQ/tiqFiLIR8Go806b2PnBcudytDR/7iXvJrBFC1pnUxcNRHnWFpMb3ehtrWesUHE3CaAizvcWMA==|tkp:Bk9SR7jVreDPYw

Could you somehow restore the link or at least tell me what it was?

 

[GDI Guy]

Sure. Its been a while, so I'll do my best. It is a small box that wires into the shifter under the center console, that basically pushes the drive mode switch for you. It is programmable for the number of times to push to get the mode you want, and I think even the time delay to push after the ignition goes live with the key...

It worked perfectly until I started to tinker with Forscan, and added Adaptive Cruise and Lane Keeping, TSR, among other things. The instructions stated that those things would affect the operation, but for me the ACC was worth pushing the mode button.

Here is the current link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/276416304288

The designer of the box was active in 2023 when I bought it, and was responsive to questions. If I remember correctly, it was
Telemachus

 

[GDI Guy]

Sorry for the confusion, it seems the link or the part are no longer available.

Here is a picture from the old link from 2023:

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