Does your Maverick have a jack?

[bluelobo26]

Another thread way back - someone looked up the specs on the bolt/nut used.

The 148 happened to be their max torque.
Which seemed strange that a desired torque for the wheels was obtained with bolts that maxed out at it.
Instead of normally seen bolt/nut maxes out above the spec'd desired torque.

As with other mistakes seen in the manual - was the torque specs given merely a mistake copy/pasting the bolt max value?

Since F150 has same torque given - does it use same bolt/nut with same max?

The result of that thread and analysis with clean lubed threads - was 111 ft-lbs would be equal.
I've done that. Still use torque wrench to keep it equal. No problems.

Personally I couldn't do it when tightening my lug nuts. I've snapped enough bolt heads off in my life that my brain just said nope!

I tightened to 100 ft lb and rechecked them a few times over 2k miles and they've been fine.

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[Tbone289]

Personally I couldn't do it when tightening my lug nuts. I've snapped enough bolt heads off in my life that my brain just said nope!

I tightened to 100 ft lb and rechecked them a few times over 2k miles and they've been fine.

I torque mine to 120lbs/ft, but 100 is plenty for a 5-lug wheel on a 3800lb vehicle. They definitely don't need to be torqued to max fastener torque.

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

Generally, you should not grease or lubricate wheel nuts (lug nuts) or studs. Doing so significantly lowers friction, which can cause you to accidentally over-tighten the nuts. This over-tightening stretches the studs, warps your brake rotors, and greatly increases the risk of wheel detachment. [1, 2, 3, 4]
For a clear visual breakdown of why lubricating wheel studs can alter torque values and cause safety issues:
57s



NEVER Lubricate Wheel Studs On Your Car!

YouTube · proclaimliberty2000

Why lubrication is risky
Wheel nuts are designed to be tightened "dry" according to the manufacturer's torque specifications. The friction of clean, dry threads is calculated into the exact amount of clamping force required to hold your wheel safely in place. If you add grease, oil, or anti-seize: [1, 2, 3]

• False Torque Readings: Your torque wrench will click at the specified setting, but the reduced friction will cause the nut to travel much further.
• Damaged Studs: Over-stretching the metal can permanently damage or snap the lug studs.[1, 2]

The best practice

• Keep them clean: Instead of greasing them, make sure the threads and mating surfaces are clean, dry, and free of dirt, debris, and major rust. You can use a wire brush to gently clean off any surface rust. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
• Torque properly: Always tighten your lug nuts using a calibrated torque wrench in a crisscross or star pattern to the manufacturer's exact specifications found in your vehicle's owner manual. [1, 2, 3]

When to make an exception
Some industrial or off-roading applications allow lubrication, but this requires manually reducing your torque specifications by about 20% to 25% to account for the reduced friction.

 

[MavGeek]

Have a jack behind my rear seat. 2026 XLT Awd hybrid.

 

[F150 2.7 TT user]

TheF150 and Maverick share the same M14 x 1.5 lug nut size. F150 6 lugs Maverick 5.

 

[Maverick123]

It's silly. I rotate my own tires and tighten mine "as much as I can." I'm not in my 70's but I still seriously doubt I am reaching 146 lb/ft. No issues here.

Personally I couldn't do it when tightening my lug nuts. I've snapped enough bolt heads off in my life that my brain just said nope!

I tightened to 100 ft lb and rechecked them a few times over 2k miles and they've been fine.

Gotta love ppl second-guessing engineers ...

Wheel studs on the Maverick are 14mm, not 12mm like most cars and small SUVs ... bigger fasteners need more torque to achieve the correct clamping force - if you don't strain the stud enough, the nut is at risk of loosening
https://www.atlascopco.com/en-ca/it...-the-recommended-maximum-torque-for-your-bolt

 

[Tbone289]

Gotta love ppl second-guessing engineers ...

Wheel studs on the Maverick are 14mm, not 12mm like most cars and small SUVs ... bigger fasteners need more torque to achieve the correct clamping force - if you don't strain the stud enough, the nut is at risk of loosening
https://www.atlascopco.com/en-ca/it...-the-recommended-maximum-torque-for-your-bolt

Just FYI... "maximum torque" for a fastener and "required torque" for an application aren't the same thing. So, yeah, maybe we're second-guessing the engineers, but at least we understand the language.

 

[KO Stradivarius]

Gotta love ppl second-guessing engineers ...

Wheel studs on the Maverick are 14mm, not 12mm like most cars and small SUVs ... bigger fasteners need more torque to achieve the correct clamping force - if you don't strain the stud enough, the nut is at risk of loosening
https://www.atlascopco.com/en-ca/it...-the-recommended-maximum-torque-for-your-bolt

People second guess engineers all of the time*. My term is "Armchair Engineers". Not that engineers are perfect or some kind of geniuses, and are the only people that can design something. Far from it, actually. They just are the specialists in the trenches.

But in reality there are always little trade-off decisions that engineers must make. Trade-offs (cost, supplier and/or factory mfg feasibility, testing, clearances/packaging, CAE attribute requirements, etc) that are often unpredictable yet very real and nobody else can possibly walk a mile in their shoes in order to know exactly why something was done. They can only guess.

The decisions are "forks in the road" that take you places you would never expect to go. People like to generalize and oversimplify things, but engineers have to sweat it out. Every. Single. Detail. If not, you risk delays and/or failures.

Any engineer typically realizes that he really should not vociferously question, criticize, or condemn another engineer because those are someone else's parts and therefore it's almost impossible to understand it from afar and be fair. Only the responsible engineer is the specialist. And non-engineers....well, that's even more debatable - it's just not easy to design something and meet all of the requirements.

And the design engineer leads a team of other engineers such as for Vehicle/Supplier Mfg, Cost, Materials, Studio/appearance, CAD, CAE (simulations for Safety, NVH, Durability, Aero, etc), Service...the list is endless and he has to find a balance that works for all of it, so it's a company project and he does not have carte blanche to just do it his way. There are too many checks and balances that will force you to change it.

It all makes for fun discussions like we are having, but a reasonable person should always allow for the fact that there "must be a reason" for the way it is. You can't design to anecdotes.

"In God We Trust - all others bring data" (Deming). It's not a binary world - not just 0's and 1's, black/white, all/nothing, always/never...you cannot generalize and almost everything is nuanced in the gray area.

* Just my $0.02 from a grizzled retired career sheetmetal Engr (> 40 yrs) who paid his dues, who sweated over the details, and designed parts on many car & truck models that you probably drove or are driving.

 

[Hootbro]

People second guess engineers all of the time*. My term is "Armchair Engineers". Not that engineers are perfect or some kind of geniuses, and are the only people that can design something. Far from it, actually. They just are the specialists in the trenches.

But in reality there are always little trade-off decisions that engineers must make. Trade-offs (cost, supplier and/or factory mfg feasibility, testing, clearances/packaging, CAE attribute requirements, etc) that are often unpredictable yet very real and nobody else can possibly walk a mile in their shoes in order to know exactly why something was done. They can only guess.

The decisions are "forks in the road" that take you places you would never expect to go. People like to generalize and oversimplify things, but engineers have to sweat it out. Every. Single. Detail. If not, you risk delays and/or failures.

Any engineer typically realizes that he really should not vociferously question, criticize, or condemn another engineer because he doesn't own those parts and therefore it's almost impossible to understand it from afar and be fair. The responsible engineer is the specialist. And non-engineers, well...that's even more debatable - it's just not easy to design something and meet the requirements.

And the design engineer leads a team of other engineers such as for Vehicle/Supplier Mfg, Cost, Materials, Suppliers, Studio/appearance, CAD, CAE (simulations for Safety, NVH, Durability, Aero, etc), Service...the list is endless and he has to find a balance that works for all of it, so it's a company project and he does not have carte blanche to just do it his way. There are too many checks and balances that will force you to change it.

It all makes for fun discussions like we are having, but a reasonable person should always allow for the fact that there "must be a reason" for the way it is. You can't design to anecdotes.

"In God We Trust - all others bring data" (Deming). It's not a binary world - not just 0's and 1's, black/white, all/nothing, always/never...you cannot generalize and almost everything is nuanced in the gray area.

* Just my $0.02 from a grizzled retired career sheetmetal Engr (> 40 yrs) who paid his dues, who sweated over the details, and designed parts on many car truck models that you probably drove or are driving.

100%

I work in aerospace manufacturing and the boxes the engineers have to work within have been well defined by others before the engineer even puts effort into the project with cost, quality and ease of manufacturing taking precedent .

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

.

"In God We Trust - all others bring data"

* Just my $0.02 from a grizzled retired career sheetmetal Engr (> 40 yrs) who paid his dues, who sweated over the details, and designed parts on many car & truck models that you probably drove or are driving.

Due to the phase-out of the penny, the minimum you must pay to give advice is now a nickel.

 

[KO Stradivarius]

Due to the phase-out of the penny, the minimum you must pay to give advice is now a nickel.

OK, but only the people within this "circle of trust" will understand what "just my 5 cents" means, so the joke may not work...but let's start a new trend, eh?

And in Canada, where they totally took pennies out of circulation, they round 2 cents downward, so I think that means my advice would be free, AMIRITE?

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

And in Canada, where they totally took pennies out of circulation, they round 2 cents downward, so I think that means my advice would be free, AMIRITE?

We could say worthless. AMIRITE?

Edit:
(it's a joke folks - a play on words - free = no monetary worth)

 

[Tbone289]

We could say worthless. AMIRITE?

Gosh, so sorry to see you go, MM.

We'll all be waiting to see what user name you join back up with next time.

 

[Cancunbadlands]

That's a valid statement

 

[Carlitos_92]

Gotta love ppl second-guessing engineers ...

Wheel studs on the Maverick are 14mm, not 12mm like most cars and small SUVs ... bigger fasteners need more torque to achieve the correct clamping force - if you don't strain the stud enough, the nut is at risk of loosening
https://www.atlascopco.com/en-ca/it...-the-recommended-maximum-torque-for-your-bolt

Don't particularly care what size the stud is, and my nuts aren't at risk of loosening, but ok.

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