Dashcam Install - Hardwiring issues

[LostDude25]

I installed my Dashcam today, I ended up using #8 (Leaving #9, spare blank with no fuse). I used this kit. You will need an extra 5 amp fuse since the one in place was a triplet so you can flip it if the fuse blows.

Fuse #8 is keyed and does not activate the dashcam unless the key is turned on.

I ended up changing mine from #24 to doing this exact same thing, using #8 and leaving #9 blank with using a kit link the one used here. Works great!

Also brought the Triplet Fuse in to my shop and showed them, they were all amazed at it and thought it was a cool idea except if it goes to two different options and one side blows, you have to replace the whole fuse. I am just wondering when they engineered the fuse panel, they decided what the two sides powered for it to be something that was connected in some way that you would want to change the whole fuse.

Looking at it, it looks like only #21 #22 have something on both sides. Everything else is a Spare, not used. And none are used under the hood.

Is that a mini or micro fuse?

#8/#9 is what they call a Micro 3 Fuse
the others are Micro 2 fuses.

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[jerrinnius]

I know this is an old post, but here’s what I got working:

Thinkware F200 Pro
Red wire: fuse #1
Yellow wire (constant power): fuse #13

Continuous recording and parking mode both work!

 

[Maverick_Innovation_Designs]

I have an XLT and don't have an auto dimming mirror, but there is a fuse in #3.

And with the battery backup on my camera, I don't even notice it shut off when the auto start/stop. Only when its been running on battery for 3 mins, it starts a count down from 10 until its shuts off.

This might sound silly but I swear it's legit: it might be worth unplugging fuse #3 and see if anything breaks/doesn't work. I'm curious if they just put a fuse there to either make it easier for manufacturing or to make it less likely for people to tap into it.

 

[Jacques_rock]

I know this is an old post, but here’s what I got working:

Thinkware F200 Pro
Red wire: fuse #1
Yellow wire (constant power): fuse #13

Continuous recording and parking mode both work!

Im a bit late to this party but if you dont mind me asking. Fuse 13 is constant power and fuse 1 is ignition only? Im about to install my camera and id be nice not to faf around in the passenger seat any more than required

 

[jerrinnius]

Im a bit late to this party but if you dont mind me asking. Fuse 13 is constant power and fuse 1 is ignition only? Im about to install my camera and id be nice not to faf around in the passenger seat any more than required

That’s correct. Fuse #1 is ignition and #13 is constant power. This setup has been working for me for a couple of months.

 

[RoyalTeaDee]

I have the Thinkware Q1000 with the iVolt batter for parking mode. I use Fuse 3 for my accessory power and Fuse 24 for the continuous power.

 

[CJ_2025]

I have the Thinkware Q1000 with the iVolt batter for parking mode. I use Fuse 3 for my accessory power and Fuse 24 for the continuous power.

I'm looking at a Thinkware U3000 with iVolt battery for my new 2025 Lariat Hybrid. Let me know if you are still using these fuses, and if you have had any issues.

 

[nbmav]

Bringing this thread back to life...

Just started moving my Thinkware F200 from my old car to the Maverick. I also already had a Hyundai Homelink mirror in there using a micro2 tap in fuse 3. I've got the red wire from the camera going to the micro3 fuse 1/2 combo, just barely fits. Only problem is I've run out of room for the yellow (constant) wire. I don't even use that features but the camera won't turn on without it getting power, so I may just tie it to the red wire.

I'm curious how you guys were able to get a fuse tap into fuse #13, in mine it is right up next to a big circuit breaker. From what I've tested on the other circuits I'm tapping I found that the hot lug is on the left and the fuses stick out to the right when the tap is oriented in the correct direction (you can't put these in either way as if they are put in "backwards" then they are hot even if the fuse is removed so it doesn't protect anything), because of that it won't even come close to fitting in 13 for me.

 

[Maverick_Innovation_Designs]

I tap it off the cigarette socket instead.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1868306718/

 

[nbmav]

There's another thread on this same topic here: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/accessory-power-for-dashcam.67497/#post-1118728

 

[sanpablo]

Bringing this thread back to life...

Just started moving my Thinkware F200 from my old car to the Maverick. I also already had a Hyundai Homelink mirror in there using a micro2 tap in fuse 3. I've got the red wire from the camera going to the micro3 fuse 1/2 combo, just barely fits. Only problem is I've run out of room for the yellow (constant) wire. I don't even use that features but the camera won't turn on without it getting power, so I may just tie it to the red wire.

I'm curious how you guys were able to get a fuse tap into fuse #13, in mine it is right up next to a big circuit breaker. From what I've tested on the other circuits I'm tapping I found that the hot lug is on the left and the fuses stick out to the right when the tap is oriented in the correct direction (you can't put these in either way as if they are put in "backwards" then they are hot even if the fuse is removed so it doesn't protect anything), because of that it won't even come close to fitting in 13 for me.

I used fuse 18/19 for constant power for my Garmin dash cam.

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