Let us all know how well it fills the void and how hard it is to install.
Put cubbies on both sides, four bolts out, six in, 5 minutes each. They do a good job of filling the space, but for myself a cover on the bottom of the space is still needed. I checked the temp of the resonator on my hybrid XL after several drives and it was never even what I would consider warm.
You still need the lower cover to protect the cubby, and stop dirt from getting into area of tail light. I have even tried mud flaps, failed to protect area. The home made cover is working great..
Thanks for the video on the drivers side cubby. My Hybrid XL doesn't have a cubby on either side.
The "cubby" will not prevent debris being thrown up into the drivers side rear fender area, mud flaps will help but not prevent.
Area is behind the rear of the inner fenderwell where debris can be thrown up onto the back of the drivers side rear brake/tail light assembly. If you lay down and look up to see the back of the tail/brake light assembly you'll see where debris from the tire is thrown up. The passenger side has a plastic cover, the driver side does not.My hybrid XLT, lux has full wheel well covers (shrouds) both front and rear. The front are the plastsized fabric and the rear are plastic(rear pic attached). Is the void everyone istalking about behind the rear shroud?
Thanks a lot for your measurements. I tried to follow your diagram with a cardbox first and I found that I cannot do so many screws as you have done. It is just too easy to get tired working while laying under the bed.More measurements.
As I stated earlier the overall size is about 14"X16.5" needed to do as I have but without the leg.
-With leg it's about 21.5" long and the 16.5" wide.
-15.0" is the width of the shield from inside edge of frame to inner fender. (1.5" more needed for bend down to attach to bolt at inside fender where I temporally have the clip in the photo)
-14.0"(maybe 13.5') is distance from inside inner fender well toward the rear of vehicle.
-About 2.75" down you need to cut back (about an inch) toward the front and cut down to give more room from the wires where wiring is a problem at the back of the shield. (I guess you can just make it 13.0'' and not notch the shield but may have a problem then using 18mm bolt)
-note: the edge along the inner fender is not straight, I've angled it in 3/4 inch due to frame to inner fender gets less as you go back.
-Without the leg there is nothing to support the back of the shield if you just make a panel 14.0"X16.5".
-leg is about 8.0" longer than the 14.0" shield thus the total length of the shield is about 21.5" total.
-at the back of the leg there is a plastic body panel that when the part of the leg is bent it can be attached easily with a screw to the plastic body panel.
-for clearance reasons the leg has to be cut at an angle, at the rear about 1.5" up from bottom of shield (not including the bend up at inner fender well.)
-I went to inside edge of frame so I could use the large 18mm bolt to support the back inside edge of the shield and drilled 2 holes in shield and frame and added 2 screws. (see photo)
Sizes are approximate and the shield can be made a little larger/smaller in most areas.
**I highly recommend making a cardboard prototype first and see what works best for you. As you fit it in you will see why I have the cut outs at inner fender due to clips that stick through. The leg to the back is a bit of a hassle. You can trim the cardboard as needed until you get a good fit. You do need the 1.5" bend to attach to inner fender bolt.
***Most important, looking at the inside of the fender you will see the bolt that sticks through that I have the clip on. There is a 10mm nut that looks like it can be unthreaded, It can't! I even went so far as using a cut-off wheel to try to cut the nut off, it's part of the fender brace and the bolt apparently threads through from the outside. Looking at it will make sense. I used a clip temporally (will get a "push on nut") due to damaging the bolt threads, my suggestion would be to use a threaded nut if possible to secure the shield at the inner fender.
photos with measurements are not to scale but will give somewhat of an idea of what I did. Hope this helps. Looks like I can't spell bumper.
Just curious but can that shield on the passenger side be flipped over and mounted on the driver side? I don't have my Mav yet but thought that might be an option. I am sure that screw holes need to be "made" to accommodate but is that shield cut well enough to fit the driver's side?
Just an FYI. Aluminum oxidizes horribly when exposed to salt. Like throwing a piece of OSB out behind the barn in the weather.
No, it is hard molded plastic and is definitely not L/R interchangeable
