Cheap auto-dimming, homelink mirror

[Milous]

Does anyone know what this is for? It was included with mirror. No instructions.

It's a replacement trim clip for the driver's side A-pillar. KIA installation routes the wiring down the A-pillar, and calls for the connector to be replaced. Not used for Maverick installation.

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[Eagle11]

I looked the black number up and it did not mention home link and the specs and picture did. It show the home link buttons

That is fine, go look at my posts on how to install this, you will a photo of what I have.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

That is fine, go look at my posts on how to install this, you will a photo of what I have.

It does appear that a few have posted a link to the wrong mirror, I'm sorry.

 

[dennish]

I would like to give a shout out to @Eagle11 and @clavicus for all of their pictures, links and help!!!! I finally have my Kia Homelink mirror and dashcam installed!!! I missed the homelink from my edge and didn't know how convenient it was. Anyhow, next week I plan on posting my mini review and all of the mods I made from the posts on this forum. I am pretty much done with my Maverick now - besides the recalls/etc hope to drive it 12 years+ like I did my Edge.

All of you guys on this forum rock and couldn't have figured out half of this stuff without each and every one of you! I bought things I even didn't know I needed and couldn't be happier.

Anyways - thanks to all again and happy motoring

 

[Random]

So I am adding this message to the five different threads I have been in.

I had this issue: Interior lighting when door opens not working which turned out to be the Deep Sleep issues a lot of us have been seeing. Well resetting the battery sensor as shown in this post fixed my issue (at least for now).

I've been thinking about this and I had disconnected and reconnected my battery a number of times when installing my HomeLink mirror and when installing my dashcam. I did not do the reset after, but if I had maybe I wouldn't have the issue. This is a big maybe as it took a few months to happen after the installs.

Just food for thought if you have the issues and disconnected the battery previously.

 

[uga]

Really do not see how the mirror attached to the dome lights would delete the battery, its very minimal draw when vehicle is on, should be none when the vehicle is off. Since install the battery died 4 months later so who knows............................................

 

[Mabcim]

Dump question: Do you find that the mirror moves when you press the home link buttons? It would seem pressing the button, hard enough to activate, might move the mirror slightly.

 

[uga]

No, its not necessary to press the button hard....................

 

[Mabcim]

I followed this image above and I am only getting 10.3v out of that purple/white left wire on the left...anyone else having a different reading?

I am still trying to figure out what wires to use. I removed the dome light model and took a pic of the plug. Starting from the left:
Purple: +2v (?)

I am also getting a low voltage on that pin. While others say it works, not sure it is the best connection to use.
See the post below where there seems to be a better 12v to grab:

Just another success post checking in. Maverick XLT no sunroof. Thanks for all the informative posts so far!
[*]Gentex-453 is 3wire: Hot (always on), Ignition (key in On), Ground

• The area is tight and I didn't want to have things rattling around so I used the Ignition wire from the camera (purple with a stripe):
  
  

I’m considering getting the actual Molex connectors and make my own cables. Basically a ‘jumper’ that goes between the factory cable and where it plugs in. Then splice into my’ jumper’. Is more work, but will make it easy to switch things around and remove, if I ever want to, and go back to stock; like if there is ever an issue with a warranty repair. Maybe overkill, but is a nice electrics project for me.

 

[Mabcim]

…
I ran the solid black wire to my 12V and the black/white to the accessory.
…

Where did you grab accessory from?

 

[SnyperX]

I am also getting a low voltage on that pin. While others say it works, not sure it is the best connection to use.
See the post below where there seems to be a better 12v to grab:



I’m considering getting the actual Molex connectors and make my own cables. Basically a ‘jumper’ that goes between the factory cable and where it plugs in. Then splice into my’ jumper’. Is more work, but will make it easy to switch things around and remove, if I ever want to, and go back to stock; like if there is ever an issue with a warranty repair. Maybe overkill, but is a nice electrics project for me.

I would like that option. I tried finding the plug that goes to the lights to try and order and make my own patch cable, but could not find the plug anywhere.

 

[Mabcim]

I would like that option. I tried finding the plug that goes to the lights to try and order and make my own patch cable, but could not find the plug anywhere.

I believe I have figured out the part numbers. Want to do one more check of them. DigiKey has all but one of them. Mouser is another place, but they too don’t have all the parts. Might have to order from both of them. Was going to figure that out when I double check the parts.

I’m looking into doing the same kind of thing for the Auto Start Stop button. I haven’t figured that one out yet. Might do my own Arduino board to ‘press’ the button, when car starts. Sure just spent the $100 on the Auto Stat Stop Eliminator, but where’s the fun that? Plus not sure I want a device hanging off the CAN bus. Haven’t found switch power in the console though. May have to tap off the fuse box and run a separate wire.

Anyway, I’ll post the connector list once I double check it. They have multiple variations of the same number, so need to be the proper ‘keyed’ plug.

 

[mn_andrew]

I’m considering getting the actual Molex connectors and make my own cables. Basically a ‘jumper’ that goes between the factory cable and where it plugs in. Then splice into my’ jumper’.

I wanted to do this! Let me know if you find the connector. I spent a good hour getting to find this connector with no luck.

 

[Random]

Where did you grab accessory from?

I went to the fuse box for my add a taps that I used for my dash cam.

 

[Mabcim]

I would like that option. I tried finding the plug that goes to the lights to try and order and make my own patch cable, but could not find the plug anywhere.

I wanted to do this! Let me know if you find the connector. I spent a good hour getting to find this connector with no luck.

I have the parts figured out. I’ll describe how I came to the numbers, in case anyone wants to understand better or do it for other connectors. Then I’ll lost the parts.

The brand is on the side: Molex.
The connector series number is on the side.
The series come in different number of pins, bridged and non-bridged, as well as 3 polarization options. This is where the data sheets come into play (I’ll include links to them below).
Looking at drawings, these are non-bridged.
These also are polarization option A; can tell that by the way it looks and because it is black.
Number of pins is easy to count.

The part info, and data sheet, indicate the pins needed and mating part (i.e. what the plug goes into).

For the mating part, we want the Vertical Header. This has the posts coming straight out the back, better for making a jumper wire. You do the Right Angle one if you want, but definitely do not want Surface Mount ones. We can ignore Tray vs Tube packaging, that just how they get delivered in bulk.

For pins, they have different ones based on the wire gauge (i.e. AWG). Measuring the factory wires, those are 22 awg. We can ignore ‘Wind’ and ‘Payoff’, as these have to do with the roll they come on; we will just get individual pins. The ‘Grip’ is for the wire gauge. Obviously, you will need to order a pin for each wire you plan to hook up. I will get enough to populate all the pins, plus extras for an mistakes (they are pretty cheap).

Dome light/overhead console:
Plug: 34791-0080
Pins: 560023-0448
Mating: 34792-0080
Part: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0347910080
Data sheet: https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/348240124_sd.pdf

Camera:
Plug: 34824-0124
Pins: 560023-0448
Mating: 34825-0124
Part: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0348240124
Data sheet: https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/348240124_sd.pdf

Wire:
You can get this from many places: Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

Wrap:
I recommend getting cloth wire wrapping tape. Electrical tape will not stand up to the heat inside a car; it gets all gooey.



I had mentioned I was figuring out the plug for the Auto Start Stop connector. There is a number on it, but I couldn’t find it. There is one that is 1 digit different. Looking at all the dimensions, that part should work.
Plug: 34729-0120 (actual plug has 34728-0120)
Pins: 34803-3211
Mating: 34690-0120
Part: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0347290120
Data sheet: https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/347290120_sd.pdf



Now, where to order from:
mouser.com
digikey.com

You can search using the numbers above. DigiKey will strip off the dash when you search.
Be sure to look to see if it is actually in stock.

Once I figure out my order, I’ll update this post.

EDIT (9/6/22):
Was able to order everything from Mouser.
I decided to get TXL high temp automotive wire, found that on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/294048245340
Will update once I have the parts and build the wires.

EDIT (9/19/22):
Since I only want ignition/accessory, everything I need is at the camera. Yup, ground is there too. So I only created a cable/extension for the camera and ran wires from it.
I‘ll still do a full write up once I have my opener installed (using a different mirror), but here are some highlights:
- the wires seem a little big, the insulation gets in the way a little. So you have to take care when inserting the pins into the connector.
- I soldered my wire to the pins, which helps when forcing the insulation in. Have the pin pointing up so you don’t get solder in the area the pins goes (you can guess how I figured that out)
- the key with crimping the pins is to be sure the width & height of the crimp is no bigger than the end of the pin, otherwise it won’t insert all the way. I found the width was tricker to do.
- for the male end, I soldered directly to the pins on the back. Just take your time as they are close together. Then I hot glued to fill the gaps to help keep the pins from bending into each other.

Here a few images:

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