Ceramic coatings and dealers

[Reece @ DI]

thank you so much for the detailed response. Took time and effort and is greatly appreciated.

No problem at all, happy to help!

Sponsored

 

[Reece @ DI]

In my situation here in south central Texas I would not consider a full ceramic coating as the vehicle is garage stored. I wash and detail at home and apply a ceramic wax about every 6 months. IMHO ceramic coating does not prevent paint chips and is only protecting your vehicle from sun and environmental damage. It's also labor intensive to apply and expensive. All ceramic coatings require regular maintenance.
I have a 20 year old Ford Excursion with original paint that still looks like new. And all I've ever done is detail and keep it waxed.

Ceramic coatings will be a great option for you in TX! They do come with some maintenance, but no more so than that of waxes or sealants, just different. However, if you are okay applying every 6 months or so, a ceramic wax is a fantastic option. These hybrid products pull in sio2 with more of a traditional application type, balancing ease of application with some added durability.

I am also on the fence with how "thin" the clear coat on these vehicles actually is. I am sure the clear on your Excursion is thicker, however, the Mavs clear is not so thin that I see any issues on my year and a half old hybrid. Either my coating has drastically helped, or i've been lucky to not see these chip issues pop up like some others have.

 

[colinl]

the prep work is entirely different

c'mon. ceramic installers make it out to be some fancy 'paint correction' but it's really a good hand wash and clay bar/mitt. same as you should do before waxing. no one is painting anything.

You are correct though, never take a vehicle through a touch wash, touchless or hand wash to avoid any issues with those dirty, high speed brushes.

I'm amazed at the prevalence of brush car washes and monthly memberships. some people wash their car literally every day, I cringe at the scratches they surely have all over their vehicle, especially the headlight lenses.

 

[Reece @ DI]

c'mon. ceramic installers make it out to be some fancy 'paint correction' but it's really a good hand wash and clay bar/mitt. same as you should do before waxing. no one is painting anything.

I'm amazed at the prevalence of brush car washes and monthly memberships. some people wash their car literally every day, I cringe at the scratches they surely have all over their vehicle, especially the headlight lenses.

100%! Some of these installers are spewing some falsehoods that are not helping the industry at all. It makes education on these products incredibly difficult. It also does not help when brands squish words together like "Check out our new Ceramic Sealant Wax". If it is Sio2 just say it, using tag words like wax or sealant to adhere to certain target markets just makes things confusing.

The only (but large) difference with coatings is that you cannot jump from washing and straight into application as the coating will not adhere to paint correctly. You need to use something like the Gtechniq Panel Wipe to remove any oils left on the paint from shampoos.

Hybrid products that are not true coatings however do not need that step and are generally what these warranty installers are actually selling.

Tunnel washes are horrible! Believe me I have had buddies mention how amazing their paint looks after using one of these washes, only to see spider webbing, swirls, scratches etc. On black paint no less that shows everything!

 

[Optimus]

A true ceramic coating is NOTHING like wax. The best analogy I have seen is that it’s like putting on super glue. It’s very very thin, goes on absolutely clear and at a thickness of 1 atom/molecule, dries (flashes) very fast, and can result in cloudiness or dark spots if not properly leveled. A $15 bottle of ceramic wax at Walmart is NOT a ceramic coating. It’s at best a hybrid. And I’m by no means knocking it, because I have some and use that too (I have a few Turtlewax varieties). And with Ceramic, the prep is everything. Yes, you can skip the prep, and you end up locking in and highlighting existing defects (scratches, swirl marks, embedded grit/iron fallout).

I chose full ceramic because of the fantastic results I saw on this very forum, that blew anything I’ve ever seen (e.g. traditional waxes) out of the water. And I put a lot of effort in to my own truck to try to get similar results. I think I did, but it was a lot of work too. Work that I knew I was getting into after much research, and happy/eager to do it. I’ve never owned anything brand new and wanted to go nutz on it! For what it’s worth, I used Gtechniq products.

EDIT: A photo to show the scale of a typical spray wax bottle vs. the tiny bottles of full ceramic I used. These little bottles are 100ml each, and more than enough to do a full vehicle. You are literally applying drops per small section you work on at a time (typically 2x2 feet). Yes, that’s an eye dropper. It comes with the ceramic in order to apply the right amount to your application pad, which is also much smaller than a typical wax applicator.

There are 3 bottles of ceramic in my photo, each with their own specific purpose: HALO for the paint protection film, Crystal Serum Light as the main ceramic for the rest of the truck, and EXO v5 that is a super hydrophobic coating recommended as a “topper” for the CSL. I even have a 4th bottle of ceramic (not pictured) designed for glass. It was a mere 15ml, which is about the size of a sip of water for a hamster, but enough to do the windshield and door mirrors.

 

[Jayandita]

A true ceramic coating is NOTHING like wax. The best analogy I have seen is that it’s like putting on super glue. It’s very very thin, goes on absolutely clear and at a thickness of 1 atom/molecule, dries (flashes) very fast, and can result in cloudiness or dark spots if not properly leveled. A $15 bottle of ceramic wax at Walmart is NOT a ceramic coating. It’s at best a hybrid. And I’m by no means knocking it, because I have some and use that too (I have a few Turtlewax varieties). And with Ceramic, the prep is everything. Yes, you can skip the prep, and you end up locking in and highlighting existing defects (scratches, swirl marks, embedded grit/iron fallout).

I chose full ceramic because of the fantastic results I saw on this very forum, that blew anything I’ve ever seen (e.g. traditional waxes) out of the water. And I put a lot of effort in to my own truck to try to get similar results. I think I did, but it was a lot of work too. Work that I knew I was getting into after much research, and happy/eager to do it. I’ve never owned anything brand new and wanted to go nutz on it! For what it’s worth, I used Gtechniq products.

EDIT: A photo to show the scale of a typical spray wax bottle vs. the tiny bottles of full ceramic I used. These little bottles are 100ml each, and more than enough to do a full vehicle. You are literally applying drops per small section you work on at a time (typically 2x2 feet). Yes, that’s an eye dropper. It comes with the ceramic in order to apply the right amount to your application pad, which is also much smaller than a typical wax applicator.

There are 3 bottles of ceramic in my photo, each with their own specific purpose: HALO for the paint protection film, Crystal Serum Light as the main ceramic for the rest of the truck, and EXO v5 that is a super hydrophobic coating recommended as a “topper” for the CSL. I even have a 4th bottle of ceramic (not pictured) designed for glass. It was a mere 15ml, which is about the size of a sip of water for a hamster, but enough to do the windshield and door mirrors.

Wow. This makes me curious about the maintenance. Seems like a ton to keep up with.

 

[Optimus]

Wow. This makes me curious about the maintenance. Seems like a ton to keep up with.

My intent is to be quite the opposite. The more leg work I do now, the less I have to do later, including through brutal Minnesota winters.

It’s basically a glass-like coating on top the paint. Very thin, but very hard and durable. There are plenty of youtube videos showing how these hold up after x-months, x-years, etc. It’s impressive watching how water just beads and rolls right off, like nothing I’ve ever seen. It will make washing/drying that much easier too. “Most” of the dirt will blast right off with the initial power wash pre-spay, with little left to gave to go after with a wash mit and soap. I now use a basic electric power washer, soap “foam” cannon” that came with the power washer, and one 5-gallon bucket with a sediment trap. Plenty of videos on youtube about how to properly wash a vehicle too, including avoiding swirl marks, scratches, etc… while making the wash process faster than old way.

I’ll try to get a picture of it, but 3 weeks of an (UNusually mild) Minnesota winter even has the existing dirt beading, streaking, and wicking off. Never seen wax do this. Wax is soft and tends to trap contamination in it. Ceramic is hard like glass and hydrophobic (repels water). Wax “beads” water, but this stuff is a whole different level.

My other main intent to use ceramics is to limit how often I even need to “wash and wax,” and reduce how often I even need to do it. In part, because our winters can be VERY harsh and 5 months of the year might be pointless or even impossible to keep a vehicle so clean. Thus, any “self cleaning” properties I can factor in, the better!

 

[Jayandita]

My intent is to be quite the opposite. The more leg work I do now, the less I have to do later, including through brutal Minnesota winters.

It’s basically a glass-like coating on top the paint. Very thin, but very hard and durable. There are plenty of youtube videos showing how these hold up after x-months, x-years, etc. It’s impressive watching how water just beads and rolls right off, like nothing I’ve ever seen. It will make washing/drying that much easier too. “Most” of the dirt will blast right off with the initial power wash pre-spay, with little left to gave to go after with a wash mit and soap. I now use a basic electric power washer, soap “foam” cannon” that came with the power washer, and one 5-gallon bucket with a sediment trap. Plenty of videos on youtube about how to properly wash a vehicle too, including avoiding swirl marks, scratches, etc… while making the wash process faster than old way.

I’ll try to get a picture of it, but 3 weeks of an (UNusually mild) Minnesota winter even has the existing dirt beading, streaking, and wicking off. Never seen wax do this. Wax is soft and tends to trap contamination in it. Ceramic is hard like glass and hydrophobic (repels water). Wax “beads” water, but this stuff is a whole different level.

My other main intent to use ceramics is to limit how often I even need to “wash and wax,” and reduce how often I even need to do it. In part, because our winters can be VERY harsh and 5 months of the year might be pointless or even impossible to keep a vehicle so clean. Thus, any “self cleaning” properties I can factor in, the better!

Appreciate your efforts and wasn’t trying to discourage. I am just trying to figure out the best route. I spoke with a professional detailer today, and was thoroughly intimidated by Ceramic.

He said I would need to have it inspected every 3 months for deterioration etc. At that point I was on verge of giving up on ceramic. My logic (maybe faulty) was that if I have to do that every 3 months I may as well wax it myself. That said, I am still undecided which route is best. Getting older and have quite a few health issues that limit what I can physically do.

i sincerely appreciate yours and everyones knowledge and willingness to share it.

 

[Optimus]

Maybe try a different installer. Inspections every 3 months is just a money grab. No way would I do that—I agree, too much work!

 

[colinl]

the most important thing you can do is get PPF on the front bumper cover and leading edge of the hood. the ford accessory ppf does not have enough coverage, but it is cheap and better than nothing.

ceramic looks super nice. absolutely no one should or could dispute that. but it does not protect against stone chips, and you will see stone chips in a few months / years, guaranteed.

 

[Qanzilla]

My dealership tried to sneak this into my order when I was ready to pay. I saw the $895 charge labeled "care free" next to it and thought "what the hell could That Be?" And the salesman said it's a special coating that protects the paint and interior for years. I smelled BS and he finally admitted that it was 'optional' but they strongly recommended it.
The sneaky roundabout way they tacked it on last minute without asking or telling me about it really irked me. Plus I know that an independent professional detailer would do a much better job. I just need to find one in my area.

 

[BluegrassNbass]

I paid for PPF on my XL(not a dealer install)The full hood,front and fenders. Handle cup areas and ecah door edge. On my next maverick I will do the same and also a strip down low front to back from line down. I only go to a touchless carwash 1 mile from my house then drive home and wipe down. I use 3M bead it up on exterior everything minus windows. Takes a hour to wipe down.

 

[Builder]

Dealership recommended the paint and interior protection package for $600. They told me the paint protection product worked at the “sub atomic” level of the paint and I would never need to wax the Mav for the life of the truck. I simply giggled …… yeah, right ……. Did the wash and Maguiars Liquid Gold myself in about 1.5 hours.

 

[Reece @ DI]

My intent is to be quite the opposite. The more leg work I do now, the less I have to do later, including through brutal Minnesota winters.

It’s basically a glass-like coating on top the paint. Very thin, but very hard and durable. There are plenty of youtube videos showing how these hold up after x-months, x-years, etc. It’s impressive watching how water just beads and rolls right off, like nothing I’ve ever seen. It will make washing/drying that much easier too. “Most” of the dirt will blast right off with the initial power wash pre-spay, with little left to gave to go after with a wash mit and soap. I now use a basic electric power washer, soap “foam” cannon” that came with the power washer, and one 5-gallon bucket with a sediment trap. Plenty of videos on youtube about how to properly wash a vehicle too, including avoiding swirl marks, scratches, etc… while making the wash process faster than old way.

I’ll try to get a picture of it, but 3 weeks of an (UNusually mild) Minnesota winter even has the existing dirt beading, streaking, and wicking off. Never seen wax do this. Wax is soft and tends to trap contamination in it. Ceramic is hard like glass and hydrophobic (repels water). Wax “beads” water, but this stuff is a whole different level.

My other main intent to use ceramics is to limit how often I even need to “wash and wax,” and reduce how often I even need to do it. In part, because our winters can be VERY harsh and 5 months of the year might be pointless or even impossible to keep a vehicle so clean. Thus, any “self cleaning” properties I can factor in, the better!

Appreciate someone else who understands! The detailing industry as a whole can be confusing and brands/detailers are not a huge help with coating misinformation. However, when you do some research, these coatings are more durable, look amazing, and help keep your paint cleaner, for longer. They do however need more meticulous prep steps, but it is worth it for sure.

I applied the Gtechniq CSL and EXOv5 on my Mav and maintenance cleanings have been incredibly easy. As you said, dirt and grime just seems to roll off with a simple spray. I also recommend topping with Gtechniq C2 as it not only helps protect the coating layers, but aids in sheeting water to combat water spotting. I just quickly spray some on every few months after a wash.

 

[Aherpa]

I searched the site first and didn’t find much, so apologies in advance if this topic is here somewhere.


Just curious everyones thoughts on these dealers protective coatings. It seems they all use some sort. The two I called use Cilajet and Surface Care. Same price, and they both come with similar warranties for paint and interior protection to seats, and other surfaces.

The products seem gimmicky to me, but the warranty is intriguing.

just wondering if anyone hasexperience in this arena.

Dealer protection vs professional detailer ceramic coating, pros cons etc?

or Just keep waxing myself and buy covers for seats?

This is our first new car in over a decade, just trying our best to protect our beautiful new Mav.

My dealer did the ceramic coating before the I picked up the truck. He washed and clayed it first then applied the coating (inside the doors and the thresholds, as well). It was pricey ($500) but think it was worth it. I run the truck through the touchless car wash about once a week and I get a basic wash (no wax or finishing products of any kind) and it still looks great over a year later but most importantly, it still feels great. It's still as slick as the day it went on.
It has a five year warranty, but I'll see how that works out.

Sponsored